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Omega General Help / Re: Water leak / spare pipe
« on: 30 June 2020, 19:54:54 »
To check HBV; with engine idling and hot, set temp to MAX and check for drips above gearbox; if no drips, set heat to MIN and check again.
Please play nicely. No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....
Ours has a number of annoying design features. Chief among which are the most uncomfortable seats I've ever say in, and that includes several ride on lawn mowers and at least one Ryanair plane seat.At that price you cannot grumble, good that it has turned out to be useful and reliable. My CX was cheap, quirky, useful and reliable. I eventually sold it to a friend running a taxi business, who got many more years out of it. I replaced it with a Peugeot 504 family estate, again cheap and big, but lacking power steering so a handful to drive fast.
It also has a semi automatic gearbox that's so dim whitted it's borderline dangerous. This has been all the more noticeable of late due to the number of lycra clad morons riding children's toys around the local roads since the bat flu struck, mostly very slowly with much wobbling.
But. It was free,and it is unparalleled when it comes to moving loads of cr@p from one place to another. So far it's saved us a solid couple of grand in skips, and so far, touch wood, it's been very reliable.
Sorry Terry, I was referring to our Citroen Berlingo.A Citroen! That takes me back 40 years, to when I had a young family. I bought a CX family estate, and drove my family, plus my parents, on several holdays, in UK and France. Car was big, comfortable, fast and reliable.
It's a particularly horrible vehicle, but not overly demanding in the suspension and drive train department.
.Are you meaning that the new NTK sensor has an air leak in it's barrel? If so that's very odd. NTK is a reputable company, part of NGK. Are you sure it's not leaking around the crush washer? Either because the crush washer is missing, the sensor is not properly tightened into the socket, or the sensor has been over tightened damaging the washer.
For the record, who supplied the downpipe and cat with the bad welding?
OK FellasThat sounds like sticking clutch, i.e. not disengaging with pedal fully depressed. Could be sticking splines, or failing slave cylinder. Either way, it's a gearbox off job to rectify.
Stemo,
I must admit I’d not thought about the gearbox being under load, thank you for suggesting it.
Doctor Gollum,
I did check the oil level and it was ok, I wished it wound have been as simple as that.
To be truthful we’ve been having issues of getting the box into first and reverse gear, more so when the weather is cold.
I thought maybe the clutch was the problem, stupid thing is it doesn’t slip and if I stick the handbrake on and try to drive away the car will stall rather than the clutch slip.
What we’ve had to do is put it into first or reverse with engine not running depress the clutch and then start it up and its happy with that.
Once the engine/car has warmed up if we park up to do a bit of shopping for an hour or so, there doesn’t seem to be an issue getting it into gear.
I gave up with that one
Robson,
I agree with you about lying under the car with it running, I don’t think I’d be too excited about the idea
Johnnydog,
You suggested chatting to my friendly mot man, oddly enough I found this on the RAC website:
RAC 2018
Rumbling noise coming from the gearbox
You might be forgiven for thinking that any strange noises coming from your car would automatically fail your MOT. But the test doesn't actually cover the condition of the gearbox, clutch or engine (apart from emissions), so a growling sound in the gearbox wouldn't affect it.
Right guys I’ve just finished doing a wise thing put the bolts back into the propshaft and dropped the car off the axle stands
I’ll get in touch with the garage where I get it mot’d and see what they have to say.
To be truthful if it is the gearbox, I think it will be the end of the road for it as I’m finding it a bit of a maul now, doing things as heavy as that especially trying to do it lying on one’s back.
Just out of curiously, are any of you still running around in Omega’s??
Clive
Vx or Haynes?Thank you both. I did not appreciate bulb checking imvolved occasional pulses, this seems exactly like that. On the 2008 saloon. sensing before the RH bulb, I would expect 6 volts; sensing before both bulbs I would expect 12 volts. Now I understand my problem.The estate has the facility to automatically switch light sources between the wing and tailgate should a brake light fail. The hatch doesn't aiui due to being a different arrangement
It's in the manual iirc