Omega Owners Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

News:

Please play nicely.  No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - mandula

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 [9] 10 11 12
121
Omega General Help / Re: twitchy backend
« on: 01 February 2017, 20:41:14 »
Thanks for the advice Nick. I  got my car over the pit this afternoon, jacked up both sides near the rear, and levered the rear sub frame mounts about. They really did not move much, not at all sideways, not much up and down. I have seen them move further in MOT tests, but not on this car.

Haynes jacks up and supports the entire rear of the car, removes wheels and front mount support plates, then lowers the sub frame a bit, pops the bolt in the top of the mount, and pulls it down with the puller. You and Feeutso do them one at a time, prying the mounting out from below. I cannot see how I could use my pit with the Haynes method, but I could with yours. From the way you describe it, it can be done. But you're the man who can change rear wheel bearings, which also sounds daunting!


Front subframe bushes are a simple brute force job. Having some extra room to apply it would make the job much easier!


Considering how long the bolt is, you'd have to almost remove the subframe to 'pop it in the top of the mount' :o


Doing one side at a time means that there's no need to jiggle the subframe around to refit the bolt, as it just goes straight back in.

Did it first time outside, 0.5 meters of snow and -20 C degrees around me. One side at a time using only car jack, crow bar and wrenches. Took like three hours :)

Second time was about 1,5 years later (summer time), because donuts were already defected. Changed them to polys, took only one hour with same method :D

122
Omega General Help / Re: twitchy backend
« on: 30 January 2017, 05:28:19 »
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=136126.msg1746023#msg1746023

^That's how I solved my rear subframe rear busing issue. No wobbling after those also changed to polys  :y

123
Hmm. Sounds odd, because the manufacturer cam belt tensioning procedure takes into account ageing of the belt and other parts to arrive at the correct tension after break-in (without the additional step of running the engine and re-checking).

When you checked it again, did you do so with the engine locked at TDC? The tensioner only gives a "true" picture at that engine position. Elsewhere, the pullies might be being loaded in other directions by the valvechain and this affects the tension on the spring in the idler.

I don't remember exactly, but I'm pretty sure I did rotate engine to TDC to see does markings align, before I re-adjusted tensioner.

But it was way over the "used" mark on tensioner, and after re-adjustment I checked it again after idling the motor and tension was unchanged.

Now got about 35 000 km on it and no problems occurred. Gonna check the adjustment during next oil/filter/plug/etc. change.

124
For the belt tension, I changed mine about a year ago (for the first time for  this engine).

I adjusted the tension pulley to "new" mark and rotated engine by hand couple of rounds, everything was OK.

Then I cranked the engine and let it idle couple of minutes, just to be sure everything was OK before putting covers back on.

Then I turned off the engine and checked the tension pulley and it was past "used" mark. So needed to re-tension it to "new" mark again.

Dunno is that normal, but that "last checking" was not mentioned anywhere and I think it was good to check because belt would now be very loose otherwise.

Old belt (50 000 km) was also very loose, I think it may be last guy who did the job did not run the engine and check the tension like i did..

125
Omega General Help / Re: Wheel alignment values
« on: 21 October 2016, 11:53:09 »
I'm surprised nobody commented on this, as, given the compromise required with Omega rear settings, I would have thought these were a good idea. ??? :-\ :y

I comment this now, because I've done the job and rear settings are symmetric and inside tolerances (not so much near zero-camber as I wanted, but if I remember correctly, right rear wheel camber was like -2,5 deg or more, now both are like -1,6 deg).

I already had poly-bushes on rear and alignments done, all I did was I took inner polys out and put those eccentrics in, it was pure luck I managed to get them right to correct positions.

Then I took the car to 4-wheel alignment again and all went as usual; adjust rear toes and then front adjustments. Job done and drives well.

126
Omega General Help / Re: remote fob
« on: 15 August 2016, 08:27:38 »
Yep needs reprograming as the new fob contains a different circuit board to your original one so car will not recognise the signal to work the central locking...the key part from your old one is ok bacause that contains the original chip that works the ignition.... :y :y

Thanks!

One more question:
Is there any differences between central locking boxes between sedan and caravan models? I am going to make my caravan boot to open via remote, just wondering what I need to change. I already have 3 button fob and press key on dash. Not sure yet will I use original opening solenoid or make my own on boot opening mechanism.

127
Omega General Help / Re: remote fob
« on: 10 August 2016, 06:45:09 »
I borrow thos topic for my problem:

Originally I got 2 button fob, and ordered 3 button fob. I only wanted to change button part and attach key part with original chip to 3 button body.

Problem is that I can't sync remote locking. Do I need still reprogram the whole key to get remote work?

128
Omega General Help / Re: boot lock saloon
« on: 25 July 2016, 10:22:36 »
Just a tought:

Could it be possible to drill holes behind the back seats where the opening buttons of the back seats are and block those buttons to be pressed down by inserting a pin or something into drilled holes? (Simple thing hard to express with my english  ::) )

129
Omega General Help / Re: omega not starting
« on: 25 July 2016, 05:18:30 »
Fast way to check without multimeter:

Put something metallic, like screw driver, between solenoid + and starter main + cable to jump start it.
This way you can check the starter motor, if it cranks it is OK.

At least this is how I've checked mine from older cars, usually fault has been on the start relay.

130
Omega General Help / Re: Question for wheel gurus
« on: 08 July 2016, 15:46:20 »
Looks good,  what's the maximum wheel size for standard spring height?

See pic. This is it, if I remember correctly, 66.6 cm wheel total diameter is the max. Otherwise it will touch strut lower plate.


131
Omega General Help / Re: Question for wheel gurus
« on: 08 July 2016, 07:46:07 »
One month old:
- Bilstein B4 shocks and front springs
- HD rear springs with 5 mm spacer to get rear higher a bit
- 18x8.5" ET30 rims
- Continental ContiSportContact5 235/45-18 tyres

For my usage it is on perfect riding level (with poly bushes installed of course ;) ).


132
General Car Chat / Re: So what have you done to your car today?
« on: 04 July 2016, 07:07:14 »
Got brand new diff with LSD, old one clonks so badly. Still waiting for eccentric poly bushes to be fitted to rear trailing arms so cambers can be adjusted. Will fit diff and bushes at the same time and then to MOT  8)



Car park leprechauns, will have kleenx out looking at that ;D..

Sry, I don't understand what you are saying  ::)

Got it from opel-classicparts.de:
Quote
General Motors started in 2002 to think about outsourcing the worldwide spare parts supply for vehicles of the brand OPEL, which have not been produced for more than 12 years, as far as possible to an external service provider.

From the beginning HEISTER-GROUP participated in the worldwide call for tenders with great interest.
Due to our long-standing cooperation with the brand OPEL and the experience grown in dealing with customers at home and abroad, we considered ourselves a qualified applicant for the project of ADAM OPEL AG.
It should last until the beginning of 2004 to receive a final decision.

Their location Trier in the heart of Europe, the very good infrastructure of Germany, their experience with the brand OPEL, and their employees rnthusiasm for the brand OPEL are some of the convincing arguments for GENERAL MOTORS and the ADAM OPEL AG to select HEISTER-GROUP as partners.

We are very proud to be allowed to guarantee the world-wide spare parts supply of OPEL`s original spare parts for ADAM OPEL AG and regard the confidence they and also our clients had and have in us as a meed for our work in the past and at the same time as a challenge for the future.

133
General Car Chat / Re: So what have you done to your car today?
« on: 04 July 2016, 05:41:51 »
Got brand new diff with LSD, old one clonks so badly. Still waiting for eccentric poly bushes to be fitted to rear trailing arms so cambers can be adjusted. Will fit diff and bushes at the same time and then to MOT  8)


134
Omega General Help / Re: Wheel alignment values
« on: 23 June 2016, 07:27:14 »
Thanks for replys. Dunno how I missed those two topics completely..

One more question:

I'm planning to install these eccentric bushings to rear trailing arms (inners only) to get adjustable camber.

Are these any good for this purpose?
 
How about adjusting rear camber and toe-in, in what order does it need to be done?
- First loosen toe adjusting bars (just loose or detached from trailing arm/subframe?), then adjust camber and then finally toe?

135
Omega General Help / Wheel alignment values
« on: 20 June 2016, 12:11:18 »
Hi,

I've been looking for known-good values for wheel alignment, but could only find bits of information with search.

What I've been discovered so far:

Front
- camber -1,1/-1,1
- toe-in 0,05/0,05

Rear
- camber (will settle where it will, if no alignments modified to trailing arms)
- toe-in 0,05/0,05

Are these good for standard suspension with new struts and springs?
How important it is to have toe-in at rear, if I want to get rear camber as close to zero as it goes by adjusting toe-in close to zero?

Is there some topic where all these information can be found? I noticed there are a lot of these kind of topics but not much information about values..

My car is 2.2 (Z22XE) 2003 caravan/estate with almost all bushings replaced with polys, new springs and struts (Bilstein B4) and, well, about everything is less than one year old related to suspension or steering. Wheels 235/45R18, rims 18.5x18 ET30.

Thanks for any help!

Pages: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 [9] 10 11 12

Page created in 0.015 seconds with 15 queries.