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Topics - geoffr70

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31
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Wanted - saloon boot carpet
« on: 09 September 2012, 21:34:38 »
Hi peeps, I'm after a saloon boot carpet, just the bottom bit. From a f/l if there's any difference? Do they come in different colours? Only interested if very clean. Thanks peeps  :y

32
Hi peeps, I'm trying to drag and rop music from my laptops HDD to a usb pen. Most of it is done, but there are a few files that when I try to copy them it says: Data error (cyclic redundancy check). It won't copy.

Any ideas? Thanks peeps

33
Omega General Help / Is this the crankshaft sensor?
« on: 17 August 2012, 23:49:08 »
My 2000 3.0 MV6 manual

Driving normally, then cut out on dual carriageway. Engine turns over, doesn't start. 30 mins later it starts. Drives off, 5 mins later, cuts out. Towed to house by me, starts.

Only code 31 (no rpm signal), but obviously didn't show up when engine started and paperclip test repeated. (actually came out as 13 to me, can't be 02 bank 1 sensor though).

So no codes, but I've heard that the crank sensor sometimes doesn't throw up codes?

If it is crank sensor, does anyone know what shape plug a late (2000) 3.0 crank sensor takes and part number?

Thanks peeps  :'(

34
General Car Chat / Could this have improved mpg?
« on: 14 August 2012, 11:14:00 »
Right I don't want to start another long drawn out mpg thread but.......the elite has always been a poor starter, especially when warm. Everything else ok, leads, plugs, all serviced up, then I replaced the terminals, cut off the corroded ends of the wires and soldered them. It turns over infinitely better now, and starts much better. I've only done less than 50 urban stop/start short journey miles since, but mpg seems to have improved by 3-4 mpg! I know it's only a small distance to measure so I'll have to gauge it over the next couple of tanks, but it looks promising. I always monitor the mpg.

Could this result in better mpg? Better more powerful spark or something causing better combustion. I'm sure People more knowledgeable about this will know but the figures are there!

Not that it matters that much though, it's an Omega after all. I could actually stop running more miles than what I drive now. :D

35
General Discussion Area / Windows startup problem
« on: 01 August 2012, 20:07:49 »
Hi peeps is there any computer whizz kids out there?

I forced my laptop to turn off whilst it was doing stuff by pressing and holding the power button. Now when I try to turn it on all I get is a black screen with white writing saying: " we apologise for the inconvenience, but windows did not start successfully. A recent hardware of software change might have caused this."

It says other stuff, then counts down 30 seconds, you see the windows icon, then it repeats the process.  Have I buggered my computer?

Thanks peeps

36
General Car Chat / Stolen Cavalier thread a while back
« on: 19 July 2012, 23:23:03 »
I seem to remember a thread from someone on the forum having had their old soft top cav being nicked. Or am I getting mixed up.

As there aren't many about this is not it is it? Probably not but you never know.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1986-C-VAUXHALL-CAVALIER-1-8-I-CABRIOLET-1-OF-1300-LOVLEY-EXAMPLE-/380456022446?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item5894f231ae

37
General Car Chat / Toyota Aristo/Lexus GS300
« on: 18 July 2012, 23:11:00 »
Hi peeps, thinking about getting one of these beasts, does anyone know anything about them? I know they have the same twin turbo lump from the supra. What are things to look out for/common problems? What's the standard bhp/0-60 time - purely academic (I know they're bloody fast woooooooo).

Thanks peeps

38
Omega General Help / V6 Cambelt kit compatibility
« on: 22 May 2012, 20:43:30 »
Hi peeps, does anyone know of all v6 Cambelt kits are the same? Is there any difference depending on year, engine size, dbw or non dbw? Will a 98 2.5 fit a 2000 3.0?

Thanks peeps

39
General Discussion Area / Olympic torch sale
« on: 20 May 2012, 21:59:11 »
I see someone is selling an olympic torch on ebay. It's currently got 36 mins left and is at £135,500.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330735828718?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

Some cheeky sod has cleverly (and deceitfully) created a lookalike listing copying the words, and is selling a photo of the torch. The bidding on this is upto £4100!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190681453008?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648

Mental, deceitful yes, but idiots allowing themselves to be deceived!

40
General Car Chat / Nice and quiet now
« on: 16 May 2012, 22:13:29 »
The elite has always had the tiniest of exhaust blows but in the last few weeks it got slightly worse, then got alot worse 30 mins into a 6 hr round trip to get another elite. Great, I hate that droning noise  :'( Anyway, got my head under there and saw that the entire circumference of one of the centre sections had corroded about 2-3 inches from the join to backbox.

Ordered two eternal centre sections and fitted them, bloody pain in the arse. Also managed to retain my Irmscher double d backbox which is in mint condition (has remus written on it). Straightened the backbox up aswell, it was never fully level and looked a bit like a boyracer bodge.

Anyway, so the point is, it's all lovely and quiet now, just like it should be, serenely cruising down the street, Bonus :y! Makes drilling out the cat flanges seem worth it now.

Also had some fun starting the engine when the exhaust was off :-X and drove it from one place of work to another (a few miles, not by choice) like that, bloody loud hahaha

I wonder how much a fast fit place would've charged for replacing two v6 centre sections?

41
Omega General Help / Bolts sheeted and corroded in
« on: 11 May 2012, 21:49:03 »
Hi peeps in replacing centre sections on my elite. The bolts from centre sections to cats have sheered, and the rest is corroded in. I'm using a hammer and punch to try and get the remaining thread out. Any better ideas? Thanks peeps

42
Maintenance Guides / Pictures of towbar bolt locations etc
« on: 09 May 2012, 23:10:07 »
Pictures from inside boot of f/l saloon showing bolt hole locations etc. The one in the picture is a factory fit detachable. There are raised nipples where the holes are meant to be drilled.












43
Hi peeps, after cross threading the nut that holds the drivers side wiper, I need a new one. So if anyone's got a breaker? I want the two nuts and the black plastic caps. The nuts are 13mm drive, not sure about thread size. Thanks peeps

44
Omega General Help / Code 87
« on: 28 April 2012, 18:21:00 »
Hi peeps, the EML was on on the MV6. I code read it and 87 came back. A/C cut off relay voltage low, or something like that.

Assuming it doesn't actually affect the running of the engine (seems ok), although air con isn't cold anymore. I've looked agt the v6 engine relay box but can't seem to workout which one it is. Can i just find out which one it is and replace, as simple as that? If so does anyone know which one, and do any breakers have one?

Thanks

45
Maintenance Guides / Replace your handbrake cable
« on: 28 April 2012, 00:22:45 »
Hi peeps. This is a how to on replacing your handbrake cable. This was done on my MV6 and Elite (both v6 saloons). I believe the saloon is the same as the estate for the purposes of changing h/b cable, not sure about different engine sizes though. The job itself is straightforward, but awkward for access. If you happen to be replacing the exhaust centre sections (v6), it will be a good time to replace the h/b cable as you will have more access.

I changed mine as it was obviously stretched, and I like a tight handbrake.

Assuming you don't have a pit or four post lift, use of a creeper will be an advantage, or strong neck muscles. You will be right under the car, so as always, check and double check the stability. I've been under some heavy loads, but I wouldn't fancy an Omega sitting on top of me.

I used a pattern part from eBay, which due to the nature of the part, I think will be fine.

Here is a picture of what you'll be fitting. This is the old one though. At first glance, the cable looks the same length on each side, but take note, they are not:



Tools I used:

Jack, axle stands, wheel chocks, socket set (only 10mm and 13mm deep socket required), a selection of extension and wobbler bars will come in a treat, pliers, flathead screwdriver, hammer, maybe penetrating oil and a wire brush.

Instructions in red, explanatory notes and other stuff in black. To make it easy to refer to when doing job after having read this already.

The job:

1. Jack and support the car high enough on axle stands to slide under the rear end, approximately half way down. Removing rear road wheels allows easier access. I only raised the rear, but you could do the whole car to make it easier if you want. If you do, make sure it's level (so it doesn't roll) as you won't be able to chock the front wheels. If you don't, chock the front wheels well, as once the rear wheels are off the ground, your h/b is useless, but will be off anyway. You could wedge a piece of wood against the seat and brake pedal, every little helps.

2. Release handbrake, and push down to fully off position.

3. Using a pair of pliers, remove the handbrake cable tensioning spring on each side of car. This is located on the underside at the rear of the disc/disc backing plate. It simply unhooks on each side.

4. Unhook the end of the handbrake cable that hooks onto the lever that sticks out of the drum. This might be corroded on slightly. If it is, use some penetrating oil or WD40, a wire brush and pliers to wriggle it off.

Picture of the handbrake cable tensioning spring, and end of cable:

.


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