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Topics - geoffr70

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61
General Discussion Area / Can I mix used engine oil with paraffin?
« on: 15 January 2012, 21:21:38 »
Hi peeps,

Has anyone done this or know if it can be done? I would've thought it'd have to be quite a weak mix, and fully mixed. The idea is to burn in my paraffin greenhouse heaters. I'm thinking the wick would help filter out the carbon and soot etc from the oil, and the heat from the flame, although not much, would help preheat to make the consistency more like paraffin, although as said would be quite diluted.

Would it smoke much and soot up my greenhouses? I'm all about reusing/recycling/saving money etc! Bonus :y

Thanks peeps

62
Omega General Help / Polybushing ARB
« on: 12 January 2012, 20:03:41 »
Hi peeps, how easy is it to polybush the ARB? I'm fitting new drop links so thought I might aswell do this. According to Haynes the front subframe needs to be removed - eh? Surely I can just undo the two bolts on each side and replace bush right?

Thanks peeps

63
General Car Chat / Just polybushed my Elite
« on: 30 December 2011, 16:25:47 »
Ahaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

I've just polybushed my elite with some powerflex bushes I got cheap off eBay. I was going to recommend that no one ever again remove or replace a wishbone as I wearily made the passenger side back up, cold and wet through to my long johns and completely shrivelled up with a big brake calliper shaped cut on my chin.

Then I went for a short drive and it feels absolutely bloody brilliant. I only went round the block and over a few speed bumps. The steering feels sharper and much better all round (the roads in Sunderland are shiiiite). It doesn't feel as crashy and bangy as I expected. Why didn't I do this before?

I might do the mv6 as that seems tramline alot more than the elite. Now all I've got to do is refurb the rims and get geo. there's a non wim place up here that does full geo. Bo selecta.

Thanks to peeps for guides on wb and polybushes.


Polybushes rule!

64
Hi peeps.

I'm replacing a big fence soon and need something to treat it with. I know big brother has banned us plebs from using creosote, and creosote substitute, so now there is only the synthetic type stuff from bartoline that you'd be legally allowed to use (treating your own fence on your own property!)

I've got access to all three, but as the synthetic stuff is considerably cheaper, has anyone got any good experiences of it? Does it work and not fade after 2 minutes? Apparently it's oil based not waterbased, which is all the more important as the fence boards aren't tanalised (they are top quality timbers I got for a steal so they're getting used!).

Should I just stick with good old fashioned full fat creosote?

Thanks peeps

65
Omega General Help / How much play in wish bones?
« on: 20 November 2011, 19:39:10 »
Hi peeps

After developing low pitched knocking on the front in the last few weeks, I got under and had a look.

Drop links appear ok, all bolts etc tight, wish bones are cheap ones, When i levered the front bushes with a bar I easily got 1cm of movement without trying. When i go over one particular, slightly raised manhole cover it always pulls and tramlines on it.

How much movement should there be in the Bushes? Not much? Not as much as this i bet? I think it is the wishbone knocking on the frame due to fubarred bushes? Does this sound right to everyone? Although I couldn't see any marks. It only happens when i go over bumps/holes/bad surface etc.

Also, when i fit new wishbones, when torquing up the front bush, I think I'll hand tighten the front bolt, then lower onto breeze block (to allow more access whilst still loading the wheels), then fully torque up. Can anyone see any probs here?

Thanks

66
Omega General Help / Part numbers
« on: 13 November 2011, 17:50:46 »
Hi peeps,

I'm having a sort out and have got these parts:

90500983 - pack of 5 approx 10mm diameter o-rings
90467543 - pack of 2 approx 25mm diameter o-rings, each with two rectangular lugs, opposing at 180 degrees, with a rubber bar going between - does that make sense? I have 6 of these - don't know if that's a clue?

Anyway, I ordered these a while ago and haven't used them and I've forgotten what they are. Does anyone know, or knows where I can find out?

Thanks

p.s I ordered these at the same time I got oil cooler  seals and collant bridge seal etc, so don't know if they're related (i've checked the oil cooler guide!)

67
Omega General Help / Wishbones
« on: 27 October 2011, 22:30:24 »
Hi peeps.

In a silly moment I put el cheapo wishbones from ebay on the beast and they have lasted less than 10,000 miles (I think - gotta jack it up and have a look, but pretty sure).

Is lower control arm the proper name for w/bones? I take it from forum chat Lemforder are the best option? £130 for the pair is better than replacing with crap again so not that bad is it? (Allgerman website)

Thanks peeps! :-*

68
Hello peeeeeeeeeps!

Does anyone know how to change the temperature from F to centrigade on the C/C panel? Mine's changed after a duff battery. Never done that before. Also, how do you reset the flaps again?

Thanks poops!

69
Hello, after making sure my Elite is maintained to the highest of standards using some of the guides on here, I thought I'd make this little 'how-to' to help others.

I set about changing my ATF as I strongly suspected it hadn't ever been changed, and was right! Benefits from doing this job could include longer gear box life, possible increased m.p.g., quieter and smoother box. Mine is the AR35 box, I don't know how similar the AR25 box is, but hopefully this can be used for that box aswell.

Tools required:

Chocks, axle stands, socket set, hammer, oil tray (old washing up bowl), rags/newspaper/old carpet, jack, torque wrench. Optional - barrier cream, knife, wood chisel, sand/emery paper. I also bought a B&Q easy watering 5 litre pressure sprayer (in a nice fetching green shade), to get the new fluid in. It was ideal for the job, cost £16, and can be cleaned out and used in the garden. (B&Q code 0000003643402)

Parts required:

N209 27 01 filter, 4L30E, AR25, Vauxhall 44mm £21.01
N209 25 02 rear pan gasket, GM 4L30E, Vauxhall £5.10
N209 25 01 front pan gasket, GM 4L30E, Vauxhall £3.76

You will need to double check part numbers and prices yourself through JPAT as I lifted this info from another post. I got my parts from Dave Kember at A.B.S. for £40 delivered, which was quick and easy.

Dexron 3 ATF. From dry I believe the box holds 8.8 litres. This method got about 5.5 litres out. I purchased 9.1 litres (2 x 4.55) £39 delivered.

The job:

1.   Take car for a short drive to warm the ATF so it comes out more readily.

2.   Park on flat, level, firm ground. Handbrake on, jack and stand drivers side, chock the wheels. Use non slip interface between stands and car (such as old carpet patch, wood etc), so there is no metal on metal and less chance of slipping and you becoming a pancake. When jacking the car, I find it best to select 'neutral', because when the car is jacked I find it rolls onto the 'park' peg, then when you select another position it gives a big thud when the peg is released which doesn't sound healthy. Only do this though if your handbrake is upto the job.

3.   There is the potential to make alot of mess, and ATF isn't DKNY, so use old carpet/newspaper/rags to protect ground, and gloves/barrier cream to protect you so you don't stink! Haha!

4.   Position oil tray/old washing up bowl under level plug. This is situated half way up the drivers side of the rear (biggest) sump. You'll know it when you see it, it's not a drain plug hence not at the lowest point. Slacken level plug (13mm IIRC), don't fully remove, let ATF flow out into your container (not a great deal at this point). Be very careful as you are working near the cat. converters which will be quite hot even after your short drive. Hand tight level plug - to avoid spillage when sump comes off.

5.   Undo (16 x 10mm IIRC) bolts with washers from large sump and place to one side. After removing the bolts my sump still wouldn't come off. Here is the awkward bit! Carefully support sump whilst 'encouraging' it to come off with a hammer, and avoiding spilling ATF everywhere! I used a few loosely fitted bolts to help support it. Don't hit it too hard you don't want to damage it! Drain ATF into container. Repeat for small sump. There is an ATF cooler pipe bracket next to one of the sumps that one of the bolts go through. Once all the bolts are out just move it round so the sump comes off easily.

6.   Once my sumps were off I noticed half the gaskets were baked to the sump and the rest were still on the car! I used a Stanley knife blade, wood chisel, rag and sandpaper to get it off the car, it was a little awkward. When doing this be very careful as the blade comes very near to the wires and internal workings of box, which you do not want to damage! Nor do you want to get bits of gasket/particles inside!

7.   Remove remaining baked on gaskets from sump pans away from car (and preferably in a warm garage!) Clean out sumps and degrease (not vitally important - but I only got 5.5 litres of ATF out on this job so every little helps! Check for metal bits in the bottom.

8.   At this point you could consider removing/flushing cooler pipes to get more ATF out - I, however, didn't.

9.   Remove the filter (A.K.A. fluid screen) which will present itself after you take the large sump off (3 bolts). With container under here still, and engine off, move the gear gear selector through the range to encourage more ATF out. I have heard you can clean and re use/save the filter. I'll be doing that to mine later! Wipe off old ATF from underside and clean up mating faces.


Addition by TheBoy: Clean the magnet which sits in the large sump.  The amount of metal stuck to this gives a reasonable indication as to the state of the box.

70
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Sealed car batteries
« on: 08 September 2011, 21:21:02 »
Hello peeps, is it ok to have one of those sealed car batteries in the boot? The idea is to double up on batteries to empower the beast! After a 100 mile blast to Keswick wiith the 'van, lights, radio, and 12v cooler box on it just about started when I got there. It doesn't seem to like hot starts.

The sealed batteries don't give off any fume things do they? So it won't choke me in the cabin?

Thanks peeps :y

71
Hi peeps,

got Kevin the caravan coupled up today and took him for a short drive.

When i fitted my towbar I went by this info:

Colours on vehicle harness:

Black / Blue : Fog Light
Black / White : Turn signal, Left
Red : +12v permanent
Grey / Black : Tail Lamp Left
Black / Yellow : Stop Lamp
Grey / Red : Tail Lamp Right
Black / Green : Turn signal, Right
Brown : Chassis / Negative
White / Black : Reversing Lamp

Towbar cable colours are usually as follows...

Blue ------- Rear Fog Supply
Green ----- RH Flasher
White ------ Earth
Black ------ LH Side Lights
Yellow ----- LH Flasher
Brown ----- RH Side Lights
Red -------- Stop Lights
Purple ----- Rear Fog Lamps

I cut the plug off that is located in the boot, bared the wires and used block connectors. I also put in an indicator buzzer and followed the instructions that came with the socket.

The left indicator worked, with the buzzer, when the right indicator was selected the sidelight came on and no other lights worked. I stripped and reconnected the wires on the caravan plug but they were black all down the wires, not bare copper. I had the clusters off and cleaned all the connections up but no nothing works.

My caravan is very old so the electrics could just be paggered.

I am thinking about just getting a light bar and extending the wires. What does anyone think to that?

72
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Audio feed from 2013
« on: 11 March 2011, 21:49:32 »
Hello, does anyone know if there is a spare audio output from the 2013? The idea is to take a feed from it as I have an amp and sub lying around, and desire a rounder sound, not in a chavvy way though. thanks

73
Omega General Help / Polybushing the front
« on: 25 August 2011, 22:01:50 »
Hi peeps, I have a few questions about polybushing my cars.

The powerflex bush I have seen includes the front w/b bush and the arb bush. As it doesn't include the rear w/b bush, I take it that is not as weak/liable to fail as the front? When the ball joint fails i can just replace that instead of replacing the polybuhed w/b right?

I've heard talk of people using a press to get the new bush in. I've never used a press. Does the bush just pop in and stays in under tension or does it need fixing in somehow?

As I haven't used and don't have access to a press, would some Holmatro hydraulic equipment be suitable? Imagine a big set of pliers with 29 tonnes of force?

Thanks peeps.

74
Omega General Help / Turning off interior lights
« on: 02 July 2011, 22:43:22 »
Hello, does anyone know how to turn off the interior lights?

I haven't been driving at night much lately, but picked someone up tonight. With the engine running, the door was opened, then closed but the lights didn't go off for a short while.

Also, when the lights are turned on (when unlocking and getting in car), they don't go out when the ignition is turned on.

Any ideas? I've forgotten.

Thanks

75
Hello all. Changed the cats and lambda sensors on a 2000 (w) 3.0 v6 for aftermarket ones that were a few weeks old. I took out the fuse (29b), the big red 50 amp one, and capped off the SAI. I started the engine and let it tick over till the choke turned off, then manoeuvred it on the drive. It was driven later, when after 15 mins the eml started to flash so quickly it's more or less on permanently, and these codes showed up:

13, O2 sensor 1 open circuit. 31, No engine RPM signal. 48, Battery Voltage Low. 57, Idle air control voltage low, 73, Mass air flow sensor voltage low. 144, Immobiliser no signal. 145, Immobiliser wrong signal.

Any ideas about that anyone? I can't see why all apart from O2 sensor would show up, but you never know. Thanks

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