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[TheBoy]

On the ZX10, coming out of that clear breather pipe between right 2 carbs, when engine running.


Stuck needle valve in one of those carbs?

http://db.tt/HLwPmghw

[doz]

Aye strip and clean job and check the float heights. Check vac hoses. Just general service stuff really. Be careful with the diaphragms went you refit the tops easy to pinch and they cost loads. I have repaired some with super glue before but only really small holes.

[feeutfo]

Sticking float needle valve? Float bowls off. Hope you got a good fitting pozy/Philips screw driver. Or get an impact driver to be sure. They'll be stuck fast at that age I would think.

Got an impact driver here if you need one.

That's my experience anyway.

[TheBoy]

Stripped the bowels off the 2 right hand carbs, can't say I found anything wrong, but cleaned it up.  Was going to do the left 2, but one of the screws wasn't going to want to undo, so left them alone.

Hoping I may have found the poor starting problem - earth strap.

Slapped it all back together, started straight off, no leak. Might get the carbs set up by someone who knows what they are doing...

[feeutfo]

Balancing carbs will smooth the tick over, won't work any other wonders though.

Probably needs the valve clearances doing by now. Bucket and shim are they?

Notice any odd wear on the throttle needles, btw?

[TheBoy]

Balancing carbs will smooth the tick over, won't work any other wonders though.

Probably needs the valve clearances doing by now. Bucket and shim are they?

Notice any odd wear on the throttle needles, btw?

Didn't strip top end of carbs.

Idle isn't brilliant, although stable enough once warmed up.  No idea about valves.

At end of day, don't want to spend mega bucks on it - its tired, old, and simply cheap transport.  Every year I'm tempted by something newer, but its less than £60 to insure, 40mpg, £60-70 tax, and a hoot (despite being only 125bhp (when new)).

[feeutfo]

Balancing carbs will smooth the tick over, won't work any other wonders though.

Probably needs the valve clearances doing by now. Bucket and shim are they?

Notice any odd wear on the throttle needles, btw?

Didn't strip top end of carbs.

Idle isn't brilliant, although stable enough once warmed up.  No idea about valves.

At end of day, don't want to spend mega bucks on it - its tired, old, and simply cheap transport.  Every year I'm tempted by something newer, but its less than £60 to insure, 40mpg, £60-70 tax, and a hoot (despite being only 125bhp (when new)).

Worth looking after a bit then, if intending to keep it...?
It's also worth looking into the required schedule on the top end. A phone call to a dealer if nothing else.

We can have a play one weekend.

[TheBoy]

Balancing carbs will smooth the tick over, won't work any other wonders though.

Probably needs the valve clearances doing by now. Bucket and shim are they?

Notice any odd wear on the throttle needles, btw?

Didn't strip top end of carbs.

Idle isn't brilliant, although stable enough once warmed up.  No idea about valves.

At end of day, don't want to spend mega bucks on it - its tired, old, and simply cheap transport.  Every year I'm tempted by something newer, but its less than £60 to insure, 40mpg, £60-70 tax, and a hoot (despite being only 125bhp (when new)).

Worth looking after a bit then, if intending to keep it...?
It's also worth looking into the required schedule on the top end. A phone call to a dealer if nothing else.

We can have a play one weekend.

I have a Haynes BoB and the Kwaka official manual. But no idea what to do.  I need to change the gear selector shaft seal, read part of the procedure, closed the book, and drowned my sorrows in Stella (that was last year!)

[feeutfo]

Balancing carbs will smooth the tick over, won't work any other wonders though.

Probably needs the valve clearances doing by now. Bucket and shim are they?

Notice any odd wear on the throttle needles, btw?

Didn't strip top end of carbs.

Idle isn't brilliant, although stable enough once warmed up.  No idea about valves.

At end of day, don't want to spend mega bucks on it - its tired, old, and simply cheap transport.  Every year I'm tempted by something newer, but its less than £60 to insure, 40mpg, £60-70 tax, and a hoot (despite being only 125bhp (when new)).

Worth looking after a bit then, if intending to keep it...?
It's also worth looking into the required schedule on the top end. A phone call to a dealer if nothing else.

We can have a play one weekend.

I have a Haynes BoB and the Kwaka official manual. But no idea what to do.  I need to change the gear selector shaft seal, read part of the procedure, closed the book, and drowned my sorrows in Stella (that was last year!)

Split the crankcase job?

If you have the pucker workshop manual you have all the info available.

[TheBoy]

Balancing carbs will smooth the tick over, won't work any other wonders though.

Probably needs the valve clearances doing by now. Bucket and shim are they?

Notice any odd wear on the throttle needles, btw?

Didn't strip top end of carbs.

Idle isn't brilliant, although stable enough once warmed up.  No idea about valves.

At end of day, don't want to spend mega bucks on it - its tired, old, and simply cheap transport.  Every year I'm tempted by something newer, but its less than £60 to insure, 40mpg, £60-70 tax, and a hoot (despite being only 125bhp (when new)).

Worth looking after a bit then, if intending to keep it...?
It's also worth looking into the required schedule on the top end. A phone call to a dealer if nothing else.

We can have a play one weekend.

I have a Haynes BoB and the Kwaka official manual. But no idea what to do.  I need to change the gear selector shaft seal, read part of the procedure, closed the book, and drowned my sorrows in Stella (that was last year!)

Split the crankcase job?

If you have the pucker workshop manual you have all the info available.

Yeah, think it was. Think I stopped reading around then.

The Haynes BoB is better than the Kwaka one.

[feeutfo]

Balancing carbs will smooth the tick over, won't work any other wonders though.

Probably needs the valve clearances doing by now. Bucket and shim are they?

Notice any odd wear on the throttle needles, btw?

Didn't strip top end of carbs.

Idle isn't brilliant, although stable enough once warmed up.  No idea about valves.

At end of day, don't want to spend mega bucks on it - its tired, old, and simply cheap transport.  Every year I'm tempted by something newer, but its less than £60 to insure, 40mpg, £60-70 tax, and a hoot (despite being only 125bhp (when new)).

Worth looking after a bit then, if intending to keep it...?
It's also worth looking into the required schedule on the top end. A phone call to a dealer if nothing else.

We can have a play one weekend.

I have a Haynes BoB and the Kwaka official manual. But no idea what to do.  I need to change the gear selector shaft seal, read part of the procedure, closed the book, and drowned my sorrows in Stella (that was last year!)

Split the crankcase job?

If you have the pucker workshop manual you have all the info available.

Yeah, think it was. Think I stopped reading around then.

The Haynes BoB is better than the Kwaka one.

Splitting crank case is not as terrifying as it sounds. But does involve taking engine out, placing on bench upside down so the gear box doesn't fall on the floor when crank case removed.

Are the engine bolts a normal hex, or castle nuts/other? If hex its fairly cheap, but time consuming. May as well do shims then as its easier, but obviously means cams out if a valve needs adjusting. Plus you'll need a box of shims to cover all eventualitys.

I could go on, or you could Please read the manual...?

[Pitchfork]

Stripped the bowels off the 2 right hand carbs, can't say I found anything wrong, but cleaned it up.  Was going to do the left 2, but one of the screws wasn't going to want to undo, so left them alone.

Hoping I may have found the poor starting problem - earth strap.

Slapped it all back together, started straight off, no leak. Might get the carbs set up by someone who knows what they are doing...

Bowels ?

 Gutted!!

[TheBoy]

Splitting crank case is not as terrifying as it sounds. But does involve taking engine out, placing on bench upside down so the gear box doesn't fall on the floor when crank case removed.

Are the engine bolts a normal hex, or castle nuts/other? If hex its fairly cheap, but time consuming. May as well do shims then as its easier, but obviously means cams out if a valve needs adjusting. Plus you'll need a box of shims to cover all eventualitys.

I could go on, or you could Please read the manual...?

Sounds like you're the expert. Your place or mine?

[feeutfo]

Splitting crank case is not as terrifying as it sounds. But does involve taking engine out, placing on bench upside down so the gear box doesn't fall on the floor when crank case removed.

Are the engine bolts a normal hex, or castle nuts/other? If hex its fairly cheap, but time consuming. May as well do shims then as its easier, but obviously means cams out if a valve needs adjusting. Plus you'll need a box of shims to cover all eventualitys.

I could go on, or you could Please read the manual...?

Sounds like you're the expert. Your place or mine?

If you take the seat, lower fairing, tank, air box, exhaust off, drop the oil. Check the engine mount fixings are a simple hex(first of all), and then we can do the crank case job, and check the tolleramces on the valves. At that point we'll know if we can re build it, or source a box of shims. Pita job though, will take some time to sort.

[feeutfo]

Stripped the bowels off the 2 right hand carbs, can't say I found anything wrong, but cleaned it up.  Was going to do the left 2, but one of the screws wasn't going to want to undo, so left them alone.

Hoping I may have found the poor starting problem - earth strap.

Slapped it all back together, started straight off, no leak. Might get the carbs set up by someone who knows what they are doing...

Bowels ?

 Gutted!!

Whahay, how do Pitchfork. Hope your well?

Yes lets not get too much info on that?