Omega Owners Forum
Trading Area => Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted => Topic started by: beachcomber 1 on 27 January 2021, 11:23:21
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Hi all,just wondered if anyone knows where I can get a passenger headlight for my omega 2003, 2.2
self leveling . Thanks
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Might be helpful if you mentioned the exact model you have as self Levelling was only on certain models which had HID lights. (In 2.2 form I think that would be CDX and Sport models) :y
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Thanks for reply, it is just a 2.2i 16v cd automatic omega 2003 :)
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You will need to check what headlamp it is , CD headlights have H7 , H1 bulbs I think
Like this clicky (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-B-2001-OS-DRIVER-SIDE-HEADLIGHT-HEADLAMP/154248800711?hash=item23e9f1e9c7:g:AvoAAOSw~rpf20pr) which level adjustment is via a roll switch on the dash headlamp switch
IF someone has retro fitted self levelling xenon headlamps with ballast ,D2S and H1 bulbs it's a different unit
Like this clicky (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vauxhall-Omega-xenon-headlight-Driver-side/324329148127?hash=item4b83860edf:g:V0gAAOSw18BfgtnE)
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Out of curiosity what's wrong with it ?
Broken unit
Adjuster adjuster
Non clear lens. .?
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Hi, Just condensation ,think water got in when in car wash
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It's Easy enough to remove it, take it in the house ,remove the rubber caps and dry it out with the wife's hair dryer :)
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It's Easy enough to remove it, take it in the house ,remove the rubber caps and dry it out with the wife's hair dryer :)
Or in the oven.
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My Omega failed her MOT on headlights being cloudly. I used the autoglym kit with a drill, they are now like new!!!
If you're not happy doing that yourself, send me your headlight and I will sort it Free of Charge - dry out, and polish / cut out the fading :y :y
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My Omega failed her MOT on headlights being cloudly. I used the autoglym kit with a drill, they are now like new!!!
It's a quick, easy and satisfying job. I just use 1000 grit wet&dry to remove the grot, and buff with polishing compound as I have those in stock for paintwork. I don't see the need for a drill, as each lamp takes about 10 minutes by hand, on the car.
If you want them to really look like new, finish off by working through the grades of a Micro-mesh kit (https://www.axminstertools.com/micro-mesh-soft-touch-pad-abrasives-211364) which works really well if you think another 15 minutes per lamp is worthwhile.
Don't forget to apply several coats of your favourite polish to keep your new surfaces clean and clear, and to reapply whenever you polish the car.
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(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50892666122_56db21f0e5_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/2kxddyJ)LUx (https://flic.kr/p/2kxddyJ) by xh535 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/38776971@N08/), on Flickr
+ 1 for applying polish/similar after clearing cloudy headlights. I did the Holden's with abrasives but it quickly went backwards and ended up just replacing ^
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the long term solution ( so i have read) is that because polishing takes off the uv protection layer on the plastic they need a clear laquer reapplying .polishing will obviously work but will need doing every 6 months or so to keep perfect.
mine is having some paintwork done at the moment and the garage are going to laquer mine so il see how they turn out.
regards the posters original query ,its got to be worth drying out the light first before thinking about a replacement especially if its a good unit with a good lense and adjusters.omega headlamps generally dont have a problem with condensation compared to some cars so if it reoccurs the source of the leak could be found by either filling the headlamp with water and seeing where it leaks out ! or sealing any vents then pressurising it and either submersing it or spraying a soapy mix around the casing..obviously checking the cover is ok first !
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the long term solution ( so I have read) is that because polishing takes off the uv protection layer on the plastic they need a clear lacquer reapplying. Polishing will obviously work but will need doing every 6 months or so to keep perfect.
mine is having some paintwork done at the moment and the garage are going to lacquer mine so I'll see how they turn out.
While I could apply clear lacquer over a resurfaced lamp, I don't for a number of reasons:
you need to have a finely polished surface for the lamp to work properly. That is the exact opposite of what's needed for the paint to stick.
Clear lacquer also goes yellow over time, and in the sun. That process is sped up with heat, and bulbs get very hot, very quickly.
I don't take the lamp off the car unless it needs other remedial work - like replacing broken adjusters
If you do a good job, which only takes a few minutes per lamp then remember to clean and apply polish occasionally, it lasts for several years
I'm not convinced that most of the yellow surface we buff off is UV damage; it seems more like baked on dirt to me. Often it can be scraped off with a finger nail. Every pair of lamps I've improved has always required more work on the side nearest the kerb, and if you're sad enough look at European cars, this still holds true. And there are lamps that do degrade; look at the top, mostly horizontal edge of a mk1 Focus/Transit Connect/Hyundai Coupe/Vectra/etc and you'll see tiny cracks that go deeper than you can polish out.
So I wont be going to the hassle and expense of painting any lamp. I do wish they still had glass lenses that didn't suffer from these problems. A good bulb at the centre of a large, round reflector is still very effective ::)
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Thanks all for help and advice,will let you know how it goes.
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I have never found a need to put any UV treatment on mine. Maybe if we had decent sun...
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i hope mine come out ok then .they quoted an extra £100 to lacquer them and this is after they had already sanded them down without asking first. they said they would show the newly painted bonnet up so just did it
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i hope mine come out ok then .they quoted an extra £100 to lacquer them and this is after they had already sanded them down without asking first. they said they would show the newly painted bonnet up so just did it
£100 extra when they're already painting? For two flicks of the wrist and the dregs of clear in the gun? Tell them to opps off. And don't pay more than 15 minutes for the sanding.
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i hope mine come out ok then .they quoted an extra £100 to lacquer them and this is after they had already sanded them down without asking first. they said they would show the newly painted bonnet up so just did it
£100 extra when they're already painting? For two flicks of the wrist and the dregs of clear in the gun? Tell them to opps off. And don't pay more than 15 minutes for the sanding.
Lacquer headlights, waste of money.
Just buy some 800/1500/2000 grit wet n dry and some G3, start with 800, then finish with 2000, buff with G3, then a quick polish of your choice.
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i agree.thats all ive ever done.twice a year to keep them good but they said that it would mean i didnt have to do them ever again. just hope it doesnt bugger up the beam pattern. you could tell when they needed doing because the cut off line became less defined .well see.
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I use a polish that claims to be more resistant to UV light, rather than a wax. Wax and polish are different relative to protecting the surface it's applied to, so a uv resistant polish (assuming it does as claimed) is probably better than just waxing. I just reapply the polish every 3 months and they are still very clear after treating them with 'wet and dry', then G3 before G10.
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I know it's probably nonsense but on Facebook these ads keep popping up for this spray on wipe off like new look for cloudy lights.If I thought they weren't fakers I'd buy some myself as I'm sure all our units are going/gone the same way
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Got mine back and headlights look brand new .beam pattern cut off is nice and defined .so il see what happens over time.
As mentioned above ......what sun ! ....