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[Tab]

right i've finally plucked up the courage to do the cam cover gaskets, breathers and droplinks aswell.

i've got..

the four gaskets
16 o rings
black sealant
carb cleaner
wd40

what i need to know is, are there any specific size sockets/spanners or special tools that i might need?

i'll be doing it at home(mainly cos i can get some advice off here if i get stuck ) but need to drive to my dads 5 miles away to pick up the tools i need.

i've also just brought a torque wrench off ebay but it's not in nm, i think 8nm is just under 6ft lbs, does this sound about right?

i know this has been covered loads on here before but i just want to make sure i've got everything before i start.

any advice is muchly appreciated

[TheBoy]

8Nm torque wrench. I'd need to check to be accurate, but 6lbft doesn't sound too far off.

Other than that, usual standard tools, inc torx sockets.  Reasonable size spanner needed for egr - I use adjustable on this so not sure on size (bigger than 22mm)

[JamesV6CDX]

8Nm torque wrench. I'd need to check to be accurate, but 6lbft doesn't sound too far off.

Other than that, usual standard tools, inc torx sockets.  Reasonable size spanner needed for egr - I use adjustable on this so not sure on size (bigger than 22mm)

24mm - same as the camshafts.

[Tab]

well i've worked out that 5.9 ft lbs is 7.99804nm so that should be ok i reckon.

i'll pick up a 24mm spanner aswell

thanks guys

[Jay w]

17 mm and 19 mm spanner for the servo/plenium connection

couple of screwdrivers and a 13mm socket for the wiper arms (scuttle)

[Marks DTM Calib]

T14, T12, T11 and T10 sockets (all torx)
24mm spanner for EGR pipe
17 and 19mm spanner for brake servo pipe and fuel pipes.
A torx bit to remove the breather bridge (cant remember the size).
Screwdrivers and pliers also.

[Bandit127]

To convert ft/lbs to Nm, multiply by 1.36. To reverse it, divide by 1.36.

6 ft/lbs is just over 8 Nm.

Jim

[motmann]

if you can , what i did was strip it all down on one day,replaced the gaskets, then left the job overnight before  reasembley. its what we try and do if we get one to do in our workshop. mine has now done 7000miles and no drips or smell of hot oil.

[Darth Loo-knee]

if you can , what i did was strip it all down on one day,replaced the gaskets, then left the job overnight before  reasembley. its what we try and do if we get one to do in our workshop. mine has now done 7000miles and no drips or smell of hot oil.

I did the same when I did mine, giving the sealer enough time to go off

[shyboy]

Daz,
Surely a better seal is assured if the gasket is applied to sealant whilst still pliable. Once it's set, wouldn't the inevitable uneven surface create potential weak spots?
Bill

[Darth Loo-knee]

Daz,
Surely a better seal is assured if the gasket is applied to sealant whilst still pliable. Once it's set, wouldn't the inevitable uneven surface create potential weak spots?
Bill

Bill, what was meant I think was that once the gasket and sealer has been applied then fitted back to the engine, do not start the car until the following day, giving the sealer time to set.
When I did my Oil Cooler, I refitted the Cooler Plate with new sealer obviously but didn't start my car until the following day allowing the sealer to go off.
Daz

[Tab]

i'll be going to get the tools a bit later and starting it tommorow, i think i will leave the sealant to go off overnight as i'll be doing it in my garage anyway.

that's a great help guys, thanks

[Marks DTM Calib]

The sealent for the cam covers goes off in about an hour (quicker when its warm).

The oil cooler plate takes longer to fully cure and it is exposed to higher pressures!

[Tab]

well i'll be taking my time with it so i'll probably won't get it all done tommorow anyway.

i'll post some pics when i've finished