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Topics - TestOmega

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Omega General Help / Coolant Tank only stays half full
« on: 23 November 2019, 16:33:54 »
I have filled/topped up my coolant reservoir a few times. I don't know why it always wants to settle down to half full and no warning lights, etc. My gut feeling is that there is perhaps a leak in the plastic but there are no apparent tell tale marks of that.

There are no discernible leaks noted under the car or the driveway.

Any suggestions or thoughts appreciated.

I have noticeable howling/whining noise between 90-110 Km/h. It goes away at 120 km/h. The noise is more when I put my foot to the gas/petrol pedal and significantly alters as I press the foot on/off. It also appears to vary from left to right rear when going around a slight bend at those speeds.

I have read various previous posts but can't figure it out.

Thanks for the help.

Omega General Help / Fuel Tank Rust
« on: 07 October 2019, 08:43:30 »
I have the Omega X30XE Saloon equivalent (Cadillac Catera 2001). I noticed quite a bit of rust on the underbody of the fuel/petrol tank. Are these tank internally plastic shell or it is all metal? Could it rust through and start leaking? I am not a mechanic and at times am quite novice on these issues.


The oil filter rubber gasket and the small bag it came in I left in the filter and it got sucked into the system. I feel so stupid. Usually these filters come with the gasket outside and I thought the filter was missing the gasket and did not look inside the filter hole as these were stuffed in there as I was just trying to redo the oil change thinking the last oil change had issues and noticed in the new filter that I just opened. Now rattling and chattering! What to do!

Would it have been shredded and now blocking the pickup tube or it got buried inside the engine. The oil pressure appears to be extraordinarily high but not outside of the gauge range.

See the associated post about chattering.

Should I drop the oil pan and see if the pickup tube has the remnants and the blockage? Is there salvation and what is the best possible outcome and the worst and any next steps?


It was very cold during the last week here in Toronto. I started my car I heard chattering sound. It decreased a bit the first day and now has gotten much worse that I am fearful of taking it on the road. It is still very cold.

I recently changed car oil and added GM Engine Oil Supplement. The oil pressure indicates very high oil pressure that stays mostly very high as the coolant stays at 1/4 setting of the dial even after extended driving during the past two days.

I was thinking of taking apart and cleaning the breathers as the Cam gaskets areas is wet with oil but not profusely. It appears the Cam area is starved or the Cam Cover gaskets are blown and I was also getting some burnt oil smell inside the car. There are no codes either pending or set.

I do have spare cam cover gaskets that are available to me as well as the other general gaskets for the plenum, etc.

Should I just get rid of the recent oil that I added may be it has become too thickened to do proper lubrication considering -18/-20 Celsius temperatures spell.

I searched under "loud chattering" but have not successfully found other posts.

Any advice/guidance is much appreciated.

Anyone has picture(s) or part number for a wiring harness that connects the two gearbox speed sensors on Catera (2000 Omega pre face-lift) to the ABS ECU/EBTCM! I don't have easy access to a hoist that often unless I visit a shop. I believe it is a single cable that splits into two near the gear box where pigtail connectors from the sensor are latched/inserted into th eplugs of this cable. Mine was either eaten by the black squirrels or damaged by road hazard(s).

If you can suggest a place to purchase used or new I will appreciate too.

Thank you.

PS: It relates to my other thread as well

ve read lot of posts on this matter as well as the guides to remove the Bosch 5.3 ABS EBTCM/ECU. I find my situation a little different hence the new post.

0. The Cadillac Catera 2001 is 253,000 Km + young  :y
1. All of a sudden while driving the RPM indicator, Speedometer, Odometer stopped working
2. Subsequently RPM Counter/Tachometer display returned and has stayed accurately functional
3. Steering a little harder and does not adjust with driving speed
4. I am using the GPS temporarily to work as a speedometer
5. No malfunction codes on the instrument panel
6. I smelled little smoke type smell intermittently afterwards during the next couple of times I drove
7. Now I have removed the ABS fuse from the fuse panel (so now the ABS and other codes are turned on) as some posts state that a malfunction ABS ECU/EBTCM can cause the ABS motor to run continuously and burn out!

Help Needed:

Any suggestions for what I should try before working in the ABS unit area! There are some issues on the left side of he instrument panel where some bulbs stopped working and at one time I could thump around the area and these will light up. So I do plan to remove the panel and fix the bulbs as well as properly reseat the instrument panel. My gut feeling is that the speedo/odo issues are not necessarily the instrument panel issues but I would hear from the wise and more experienced.

If I do need to get the Bosch 5.3 ABS controller/EBCTM/ECU replaced or repair can anyone guide to a reasonable resource. Mine is 3.0 V6 X30XE petrol. There are very few resources in Canada but there appear some who will repair the unit but quite expensive.

PS: I fu**d up  :-[ and added brake fluid to the Steering reservoir to top it up. I realized right away and did not start the car and siphoned off the Steering pump reservoir and added proper steering fluid. Could this be the cause of some smoke type smell that I observed las week whereas this incident happened more than two months ago and I did not observe any steering issues.

Today I replaced the outer tie rod ends. I counted the turns when removing old tie rod end s and while replacing with new turned exactly the same number of turns. When I took for a drive the steering to go forward appears to be turned 30/45 degrees off centre. The feel is bad.

I was wondering if I overtightened the ball joints or any other errors. The tires look perfectly aligned from the looks.

I will take for alignment but wanted to know if it is normal. I tightened the ball joint bolt to about 74 ft lb per the guide on here.

Thank you.

I was trying to remove the CPS holding bolt and unfortunately used wrong socket. It is stuck solid with little room to play. I am going to continue to work on it but have couple of questions,

1.  What is the size of the bolt in length and Torx value?

2.  Is this bolt used anywhere else in the car that I can temporarily take it from like the plenum etc.?

3.  Any suggestions how to remove the CPS hold down bolt that has head messed up to use any sockets?

Thank you in advance I am a little stuck and appreciate help?


Is it due to possible Heater Bypass Valve or just that I am not seating the hose properly on the heater tubes that protrude out in to th enegine firewall?  Any hints on how to remove this hose and re-seat properly please!  The hose connector has a greenish ring on it but I don't know if it is doing anything useful?  Can one use clamps on top or not? 

My other hunch is that maybe the Heater Bypass Valve is not working properly and the heater pump pressure is causing the hose to come off in case it cannot push the coolant through the Heater?  When it is on before coming off there is heat inside so I don't believe the heater itself is blocked or plugged?

Regards for the help and ideas in advance.

I have seen slow coolant dripping at one of the Hose connections to the HBV.  Does the HBV fail and the water start leaking from the hose connections to the HBV or there is a hole that ruptures due to failure in the HBV?

I am going to repair/replace was not sure which is necessary in my case.  I am seeing the coolant leak from the side where single hose is connected and not the side where two hoses are connected.

Thank you.

Omega General Help / Fumes from oil fill tube and dipstick pipe
« on: 17 September 2010, 21:39:23 »
I never used to see this but when I was checking my oil dipstick there were fumes floating out.  When I took the oil fill cap off I could see similar fumes.  I have done bit of work on the car to install Water Pump and timing belt, cleaned the breather system, and was wondering if it is caused by,

  -  Possible vacuum leak in not seating the plenum properly
  -  I see the right hand cam cover edge is little sweaty but not leak of visible significance
  -  I am having the Secondary Injection System acting up a bit too as covered in a separate thread (
  -  Was getting follower type tapping also from the right cam side intermittently ( that does go away and I have currently oil lifters additive in the oil (Rislone and Wynn's Engine tune up), the oil is fresh and so is the filter

Any guidance or help appreciated. :-[

Omega General Help / Boom sound like drum once on warm up
« on: 13 September 2010, 18:32:10 »
Once I start my car after about 4-5 minutes of idling, I hear reasonable loud boom sound (just like you will hit a marching band drum once) as though it coincides with the secondary air injection system turning off at around 600-800 RPM.  The car starts normally cold right now around 1200 RPM.

The noise happens only once and never again while driving or restarting when it is already warmed up.

The noise comes from the left side or N/s for UK.  I have checked the clamps, etc., on all the Secondary injection joints.

Thank you.

Omega General Help / Tapping sound Cyls 1 3 5 after Breather cleaned
« on: 03 September 2010, 14:46:19 »
I replaced the timing belt and cleaned the breather system per guidance at OOF and OOF cam video.

Car runs extremely well with smooth idle after warm up.  There are no external signs of any oil or any fluid leaks anywhere in the engine bay.

On start up I am hearing tapping type sound which goes away after couple of minutes.  I changed the oil about 1000 miles ago and has not changed it since breather cleaning.

Is it sticking valves, something more serious or should I be doing any additives, engine flush or just an oil change.


Omega General Help / Manually turning crank to clean lifter follower!
« on: 08 September 2010, 15:04:18 »
Just wondering if there is benefit to manually turning crank for 6 to 12 revolutions to push out gunk from lifters followers!  My lifters are noisy on start up in the right bank.  I have added the lifter treatment and so far while driving for about 60 miles it has not fully solved the issue.

My car is quiet but occasionally makes tapping noises when warming up.  When I changed the cambelt two weeks ago, I turned the crank few times to get timing perfect.  When I started it tapped for a few minutes and then settled to be quiet.

Just not experienced enough to get the lifter/followers out to clean up unless these can be accessed without removing the cam but just the cam cover.

Thanks any comments and suggestions of experience appreciated.

PS:  The concept is that as you manually turn the crank slowly it could have the effect of squeezing out the bad stuff just like in the OOF maintenance guide which actually will ensure 100% correctness but quite involved for novice like me.

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