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106

Omega General Help / Re: Tighten water pump bolt without Timing Cover off!

« on: 01 September 2010, 22:49:54 »

Thank you and it worked.

As a matter of fact when I removed the water pump there was no gasket.  I remember seeing 3/4 of a gasket under the car when I originally installed the new pump.  I think it partially slid off and got chewed up between timing covers.

Hard to get a replacement gasket so greased and re-installed the one from old pump as it was pretty good and much better than the tube like from China.

I am getting better but still a bit of a chore.

Cheers.

107

Omega General Help / Tighten water pump bolt without Timing Cover off!

« on: 31 August 2010, 19:57:52 »

I have just finished doing the timing belt in pretty sweltering heat and I am a novice.  I followed the OOF Cambelt DVD to the T and tightened the new Water Pump bolts to 25 NM.  I was flushing coolant following instructions in the Maintenance guide at OOF.

Water was trickling from the area of the water pump to the floor.  It was a fast drip and slowly became a trickle.  I completed the flush and did a short drive with fresh coolant.  There is minor leak still apparent.

Questions:

1.  Is it air in the system causing some minor leak and would it get better with time?
2.  I am newbie and it would be pretty disheartening to remove the Timing belt cover again.  Is it possible to reach the water pump bolts without removing timing cover with an off set wrench, etc.?

Thanks and any other comments.

108

Omega General Help / Re: Brake Pads

« on: 21 August 2010, 01:59:34 »

ime most common cause of sqeel is cheep pads with no shims on the back, you need a shim material to take out any osilation if the pads dont sit perfectly flat in the caliper, if they rock they ossilate, and do so at such a frequency as to squeel. The more they rock, the louder the squeel. Shims, preferably ferous, ime.

Agreed. Lack of any shim material doesn't help, and the OE pads have it riveted to the pad backing. TC pads don't.

It might be worth filing a chamfer on the leading and trailing edges. I had the same problem with mine but they have eventually quietened down. They still make themselves known every so often.

I wouldn't say fitting a performance brake pad is a solution to a comfort issue. Bear in mind that some of the harder EBC pads need some heat in them before they work well, so, in my opinion aren't great on a road car. Green stuff would be OK but if fitted without shims I doubt they will improve matters.

Kevin

One thing I noted on my front brakes from 2001 Catera is that the piston surface given the years of bad brake jobs shows lot of uneven corrosion.  Just as one cleans the front hub to properly mate the new discs, I believe a light even filing of the piston fronts can be very helpful.  After all we are looking for most contact and consistent pressure across all surfaces when brakes are applied.

You people know lot more than me, just something I noticed recently while doing my brakes.

Regards.

109

Omega General Help / Re: Cam sprocket bolts... TTY or no?

« on: 15 August 2010, 19:12:44 »

The following are in the USA,

http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool-warehouse/OTC-6687.html

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/PDocs/otc6687Brochure.pdf

If it helps.

110

Omega General Help / Re: Wishbones questions

« on: 12 August 2010, 03:41:53 »

Quick update.  The seller sold me legit goods - he told me "as of this morning Delphi have issued a product recall on all unfitted Omega Arms sold from week 52D which is Mid December 2009."  Vauxhallpartswarehouse gave me a full refund and is going to work on the rest of the reimbursement.  Turns out they're good people, as I originally thought and you guys said.  Just a little bad luck I suppose.

Sorry to hear about your experience.  I also bought a pair but never installed and kept for spare.  Vauxhallpartswarehouse gave me a full refund including shipping and asked me to dump the wishbones in a rubbish bin.  Definitely a Delphi issue and perhaps good to hear from Andy H and others with more experience.  Regards.

111

Omega General Help / Re: Wishbones questions

« on: 11 July 2010, 14:34:32 »

Got the car back today after having the wishbones installed.  It has great control now and I'm very pleased.  High marks to the seller mentioned before for a total part price less than 1/5 what I would have dished out here in the states.

estaszew what was the issue before that the change fixed?  I got the wishbones but not installed yet from the same eBay seller (vauxhallpartswarehouse on eBay) who are absolutely great people.

Cheers.

112

Omega General Help / Re: the engine is pinging or having pre-ignition !!!!

« on: 07 July 2010, 22:54:57 »

Pump air from a compressor at say 100 PSI in the each of the spark plug holes consecutively by making an adapter (say out of a Spark plug)?

See which cylinder is dead when all valves are expected to be closed as the crank moves.

Perhaps someone else can describe it better.

113

Omega General Help / Re: the engine is pinging or having pre-ignition !!!!

« on: 07 July 2010, 22:20:38 »

Ali Ch have you done a compression check on the cylinders?  If so what was the pressure recorded for all?

You may be looking at  a mechanical issue (stuck valve, partially open valve, etc.).

Specially the cylinder that is being flagged by the diagnostic messages.

Just thinking aloud.

114

Omega General Help / Re: the engine is pinging or having pre-ignition !!!!

« on: 29 June 2010, 18:22:10 »

would there be many problems for you if parts could be sent out from the UK??

the only problem is the coast....visa cards or similar services coast tonnes of money and comes with huge monthly fees, rendering it usable only by companies and government agencies...
i can make a bank transfer, but the min charge is 50$

and how about Ebay?

i think china branch ship to here....but i am stuck with the first problem

a friend tried a type of visa (prepaid cards, you buy, use it, and throw it away)...ordered some silly stuff (for testing) from ebay china, they told him it ll take a month to get here....i didn't ask again so i don't know if he had them or yet, it could be handy.

that leaves the coast of the shipping....i thing the options are limited (dhl, fedex,...). the coast is about 40$ per 1/2kg...that what i use when i order some expensive equipment over the net, not sure that would be useful for sensor that is a 50$ or so

now about the carbon build up...how can i make sure and what can i do?

Ali Ch I notice in your posts to just adding water instead of recommended coolant.  I believe this probably is not going to be too good in terms of corrosion and deposits build up.

I realize the difficulty you have getting authentic stuff but you need to have some anti-corrosion protection in your coolant/water specially to protect any pumps in the cooling loop as well.

In case it helps.

115

Omega General Help / Re: rear coil springs

« on: 09 July 2010, 01:04:28 »

I changed the springs on my car a while back Liz and having  followed the guide, I didn't need to use spring compressors.

Your mechanic will find suitable replacements here;


http://www.kyb-europe.com/our-network-united-kingdom.html

Zulu77 I don't know exactly the physicals and weights of your car.  I am more with Liam and I had to do exactly what he did with my wife's help to create enough gap for the new coils to enter the nipple on the top.

I wish you were here to see my blue thumb nail and many scrapes afterwards.  Job did get done, something not right in the guide.

 

I don't know what to say Test - other than I was able to do it without the compressors.

I wish you were here

So do I Test, so do I.

Nearest thing to a compressor I used was me standing on the rear arms whilst the springs were put in place.

CaptainZok I did much like you.  I stood on a hard plank of wood to lever and still barely got it in including using not a well fitting coil compressor.

Now back to helping and comforting Liz for a comfortable night and a good morning.

Liz if your coil spring is damaged like the picture below,



Then I am surprised you noticed as the loss of a small pig tail curl hardly is noticeable while driving and there is little if any danger of the coil coming out over humps, bumps and holes.

If you had a similar damage on the top, less likely as in the picture below, then same kind of observation,



But heaven forbid if the coil broke in the middle, I doubt the coil would still be there.

Remember also that there are also shocks (blue pipe/rod in my pictures) with air levelling in my case which also provide great support.

All in all if the spring is still there it is OK but obviously your sneaky MOT people in UK are probably looking for this break as it is not too uncommon.

Find a good mechanic who has the right tool and perhaps a suitable coil compressor and the car on a hoist with shocks unattached, it will be a piece of cake. 

Good luck and wipe your  and be 

116

Omega General Help / Re: rear coil springs

« on: 09 July 2010, 00:15:43 »

I changed the springs on my car a while back Liz and having  followed the guide, I didn't need to use spring compressors.

Your mechanic will find suitable replacements here;


http://www.kyb-europe.com/our-network-united-kingdom.html

Zulu77 I don't know exactly the physicals and weights of your car.  I am more with Liam and I had to do exactly what he did with my wife's help to create enough gap for the new coils to enter the nipple on the top.

I wish you were here to see my blue thumb nail and many scrapes afterwards.  Job did get done, something not right in the guide.

 

117

Omega General Help / Re: Quick temp question

« on: 07 July 2010, 03:05:33 »

Not to dodge answer to your question there are whole bunch of interplays which are simulated but perhaps at the first level one should observe the information in actual operation as in the following thread,

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1277831253

There are a bunch of conditions one can observe for the following scenarios for example,

-  Ignition on without starting the engine
-  Start the engine and observe under cool start conditions
-  AC on and off with engine running
-  Turn engine off after a trip to observe operation

It will not be possible to emulate all kick-in and kick-out operation of the various fans and relays this way but the key conditions for normal operation should be observable.

Hope it is of some help

I realize it does not fully answer the question 

PS:  Detailed maintenance level full testing requires jumpers and fuses of various varieties to be placed, moved around in the relay panel test points under the bonnet.

118

Omega General Help / Re: Central Locking another problem

« on: 08 July 2010, 00:41:15 »

Lush don't feel lonely as over here a version of the Omega has similar issues as discussed in the below,

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-catera-cimarron-forum/202691-fuel-door-other-items-not-working.html

http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-catera-cimarron-forum/202842-anyone-know-how-open-fuel-door.html

May be it will give you some ideas or thoughts.  Definitely a little wild goose chase as we have fewer enthusiasts over here.

Cheers.

119

Omega General Help / Re: Gillingham, HELP!!

« on: 06 July 2010, 16:33:50 »

I only have that jack so I will have to brave it as i need the car working

My friend these jacks slip  all the time and it is a reasonably heavy car and if you jack on asphalt it is guaranteed to indent into asphalt and slip, not good at all as it happened on my wife's car at our house.

The area you will be working around is pretty tight and you don't want to knock the jack and support off either.

I would not go under the car without a good surface (concrete, etc.) to support the jack stands or ramps as appropriate.

Cheers and good luck.

120

Omega General Help / Re: Gillingham, HELP!!

« on: 06 July 2010, 15:08:51 »

wheres the oil filter?? can i get at it without jacking the car?

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1174321688

I don't think it is reachable without the jack.

Good luck.