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Messages - TestOmega

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46
Marks DTM Calib so thank you brother.  Does the ring get pushed in to the mating face where say the little plastic pin (white in my case) will go over the ring and get caught in the notch?  Right now the connector is sitting as in the picture but the sleeve does not seem to want to slide over the white plastic?  Does it need force and lifting of the pin over the rubber edge so that it locks?

I don't think even now if I have it installed correctly as the end of the levered white pin is not in the notch but looks more or less like the picture above which is supposed to be the fully open position.

Thank you.

47
Kevin and ffcgarry1 so thanks for your prompt reply.  I am in Canada and it is the Cadillac Catera, sister to your famous Omega X30XE Omega facelift from 2001.  Parts are extremely hard to come by here as not too many were sold.

This is a complicated weird looking hose and the radiator just empties out when it comes off with steam everywhere.

Would I be correct in assuming that,

  -  I should release the green ring 
          .  By the way if the hose pops with green ring on it, does it mean the green ring is damaged or that it is not installed properly!
  -  press on the white protruding button at the top end as in below or should I try to lift the white button to unlock the locking ring. 
  -  Then redo

I do know I have to shrink my arm to get to it  ;)



Thank you.

48
Is it due to possible Heater Bypass Valve or just that I am not seating the hose properly on the heater tubes that protrude out in to th enegine firewall?  Any hints on how to remove this hose and re-seat properly please!  The hose connector has a greenish ring on it but I don't know if it is doing anything useful?  Can one use clamps on top or not? 

My other hunch is that maybe the Heater Bypass Valve is not working properly and the heater pump pressure is causing the hose to come off in case it cannot push the coolant through the Heater?  When it is on before coming off there is heat inside so I don't believe the heater itself is blocked or plugged?

Regards for the help and ideas in advance.

49
Sorry to bother but in case it helps anyone.  All the HBV Maintenance Guides I used from the OOF section,

Replacing HBV:  http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90574.0

Disconnecting Heater Hoses:  http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90557.0

Flushing Heater Matrix:  http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90620.0

50
Lazydocker it was one of the hoses to the heater that was not properly seated at the firewall.  All is good.  I did take the opportunity to flush the heater core and it is burning hot, I mean the air.

Few nicks and scrapes but would be able to do future work in a jiffy.

Thanks to people at OOF for a guide to do so.

Thanks again.

51
You can check the connection of the hose but I expect the water is probably running to that point before dripping. Often seems to start as a gentle drip and gets more serious quite quickly!
Lazydocker thanks a lot for quick response.  Where does the water leak from?  That is my question as I have not seen a defective or mal-functioning HBV.  I thought may be the hose has come loose in connection to the HBV.  So if I get to that awkward place I don't want to just tighten and assume the problem was that and have to do this in adverse winter/clamy weather.  I have kept a spare and the current one was replaced about 4-5 years ago by a dealer.

Thank you.

52
I have seen slow coolant dripping at one of the Hose connections to the HBV.  Does the HBV fail and the water start leaking from the hose connections to the HBV or there is a hole that ruptures due to failure in the HBV?

I am going to repair/replace was not sure which is necessary in my case.  I am seeing the coolant leak from the side where single hose is connected and not the side where two hoses are connected.

Thank you.

53
Omega General Help / Re: Heater flap thumping...
« on: 16 December 2010, 00:04:05 »
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When the heater is set to automatic recirculate or just recirculate a flap in the dash in front of the passenger periodically opens (shuts?) with an almighty thump. Scares me half to death ;D

Has any one had this before? What do I look for and how do I calm it down?

I have tried turning the radio up but I think I aught to sort it out ::) ::)

There was a thread on this very problem about a month or so back, but for the life of me I can't find it. I do remember it was resolved.
Forgive me if I'm mistaken but seem to recall something about the secondary air injection.
Try unplugging it and see what happens, can't do any harm. So if I'm wrong you are no worse off.
At your service.  May be it was the following thread,

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1284399130/0

 :)

54
Omega General Help / Re: Polyflex bushes
« on: 07 October 2010, 02:35:47 »
Very wise comments and it helps. If I may add the front ones are perhaps the furthest suspension joint (other than the sway/anti-roll bar) and as such also has the most movement including up/down around the pivot point at the front bush location.

Further in you get from the rear and the front the car is mostly rigid framed and as such movements diminishes with distance towards the centre of the car.

 8-)

55
Omega General Help / Re: Polyflex bushes
« on: 01 October 2010, 20:36:47 »
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Has anyone had any experience of the polyflex bushes as i am just going to fit them to my car. I have only been hassling Powerflex for 8 years to produce them and at last they do.
Sorry, but why are these pieces of plastic so expensive?  I can see that they don't sell millions of pieces but still.  I would love to change mine just not sure about the price.  Kevin Wood's clarification on the Wishbone rear spherical bushing greatly helps as I was wondering too if things will mess up with one hard bushing the others OEM.

Regards.

56
Omega General Help / Re: Radiator Fan problem? early V6 model
« on: 04 October 2010, 03:24:21 »
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Thanks testomega, yours is same a FL layout which 2nd diagram shown for V6 models...http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1176542235  but you seem to have K67 blue relay in second space? not black headlamp washer K97 relay as shown on diagram... but you're conjecture is right I do have A/C and therefore 3x Fans... So would agree that I should have same number of relays... except I don't have headlamp washers (your'e catera should have) so that would tie in with RobG's explaination :y
I have no headlight washers  >:( ;D ;D ;)

57
Omega General Help / Re: Radiator Fan problem? early V6 model
« on: 03 October 2010, 22:44:46 »
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Thanks TestOmega very helpful, need to read a second time to assimilate all the information  :y

Does the PFL usually have a relay (K67) in space shown on my pic??? or am I missing one  :-/

http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/ae249/londoner06/Omega/FanTest-1.jpg

My model relays slightly different as below,



If you have two auxiliary fans in front and a fan on the radiator as well as AC, I conjecture you may need same number of relays as me.

In case it helps.

58
Omega General Help / Re: Radiator Fan problem? early V6 model
« on: 03 October 2010, 04:20:27 »
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Posted by RobG Yesterday at 10:46
This might help http://i863.photobucket.com/albums/ab197/philrich1064/Fan_test.jpg
Thanks RobG this is the missing link  :y this confirms the pin layout exactly the way I thought. Also expected results for the PFL when testing... I can do a decent 'how to' with photo's if admin approve (would mean nicking 'dave aw's diagram and test results for FL models though)  ::) ???

p.s. looks like I am missing relay K67 in on my mig  :o http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1276355362/15 anyone got a spare  ;D
The following for my Catera 2001 which is equivalent to 2000 vintage facelift Omegas,

Auxiliary Fans Low Speed, Electric Cooling Fan Low Speed :
Battery voltage is supplied to heater water auxiliary pump whenever ignition switch is on. When engine temperature reaches 212F (100C), primary cooling fan temperature switch stage 1 will close, enabling fan control relay K26 to energize. When fan control relay K26 energizes, battery voltage from fuse 52 is applied to auxiliary coolant fan 1 (auxiliary engine coolant fan 1 is wired in series with auxiliary engine fan 2, through normally closed contacts of fan control relay K52. This will cause auxiliary coolant fans 1 and 2 to operate at low speed. Fan control relay K26 will also supply battery voltage to engine coolant fan resistor, voltage passes through resistor to electric coolant fan. Engine coolant fan resistor will cause engine coolant fan to operate at low speed. Primary cooling fan temperature switch stage 1 contacts will open when coolant temperature reaches 203F (95C). This will turn all 3 fans off, unless air conditioning system is on.

Auxiliary Fans High Speed:
 When engine temperature reaches 221F (105C), secondary cooling fan temperature switch contacts will close and energize fan control relays K52 and K28. When fan control relay K52 energizes, it will ground terminal "B" of auxiliary engine coolant fan 1. Terminal "A" of auxiliary engine fan 1 still receives battery voltage from fan control relay K26. Auxiliary coolant fan 1 is no longer in series with auxiliary engine coolant fan 2 and will now operate at full speed. When fan control relay K28 is energized, battery voltage from fuse 40 will be applied to terminal "A" of auxiliary engine coolant fan 2. Auxiliary coolant fan 2 is no longer in series with auxiliary engine coolant fan 1 and operates at full speed. Terminal "B" of auxiliary coolant fan 2 is permanently grounded. With stage 1 contacts of primary cooling fan temperature switch closed, electric cooling fan will continue to operate. Secondary cooling fan temperature switch contacts will open when coolant temperature reaches 212F (100C). This will cause auxiliary engine coolant fans 1 and 2 to operate at low speed.

Electric Coolant Fan High Speed:
 When engine coolant temperature reaches 230F (110C), primary cooling fan temperature switch stage 2 will close energizing fan control relay K67. When fan control relay K67 energizes, battery voltage from fuse 42 will be applied directly to terminal "A" of engine coolant fan (bypassing engine coolant fan resistor ) and engine coolant fan will operate at full speed. All other operations that were taking place before coolant temperature reached 230F (110C) will remain in effect. Primary cooling fan temperature switch stage 2 contacts will open when coolant temperature reaches 221F (105C) and primary engine coolant fan will shut off. At coolant temperatures above approximately 230F (110C), all 3 coolant fans are operating at full speed. Only 5 of 6 relays operate at this time, unless air conditioning system is turned on. In this case, fan control relay K87 and A/C compressor relay K60 will also operate.

Engine Cooling Fans (A/C Operation):
 When A/C compressor is turned on, fan control relay K87 is energized and auxiliary engine coolant fans 1 and 2 will operate in low speed. In order to prevent inadmissible high refrigerant pressure in refrigerant circuit, auxiliary engine coolant fans 1 and 2 are switched from low speed to high speed at refrigerant pressures above approximately 275 psi. When pressure drops less than about 217 psi, auxiliary engine coolant fans 1 and 2 are switched back to low speed.

Water Auxiliary Pump:
 When ignition is off and engine coolant temperature reaches 212F (100C), primary cooling fan temperature switch stage 1 will close, enabling fan control relay K26 to energize. When fan control relay K26 energizes, battery voltage from fuse 52 is applied through normally closed auxiliary water pump relay K22, allowing water auxiliary pump to operate. Fan control relay K26 will also supply battery voltage to engine coolant resistor, allowing voltage to pass through resistor to electric cooling fan. Engine cooling fan resistor will cause engine cooling fan to operate at low speed. When engine coolant temperature reaches 203F (95C), primary cooling fan temperature switch stage 1 will open, de-energizing fan control relay K26. This will turn water auxiliary pump and engine cooling fan off.

I believe the components and relays will need to be confirmed for various models.

In case it helps.

59
Omega General Help / Re: THIRD PROBLEM IN 5 DAYS
« on: 23 September 2010, 19:06:05 »
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As Gooseman says, use only genuine VX gaskets & camcover sealant (black). You will need a new set of head bolts which you may as well get from your local Dealer too as they wont cost significantly more from there than anywhere else. You will also need a new inlet manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket (steel multilayer), new throttle body gasket, new manifold to downpipe exhaust gasket, exhaust assembly paste. If you buy the headgasket kit, I believe all the gaskets you require are in the kit, but here are a few part numbers for reference & if you visit the link to Autovaux, you can check out other part no's & prices too.  :y 

 camcover gasket - part no: 55558349
 cam cover black sealant - 90485251
   "    "  'o' rings - 9052 8438 (x10)
throttle body gasket - 90543950
cambelt kit - 93174267
waterpump - 24409355
headbolt - 90466480 (x10)


www.autovaux.co.uk




BTW, do you have a Haynes Manual? There isn't one for the 2.2, but the 2.0ltr manual covers everything you will need plus there are 'Howto's' for some of the jobs in the maintenance section. If no manual, PM me  :y
I believe Marks DTM Calib and others have spoken well of the following if you want to check budget pricing or actually purchase items,

http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/trechii/

Good luck and hope it helps. ;)

60
Omega General Help / Re: OEM brake pads - Brake dust
« on: 26 September 2010, 01:28:19 »
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I've no idea what brake pads are on my 2.6 Elite currently, but they do produce a lot of brake dust, even after a gentle drive the front wheels are always black.
Do OEM pads produce less brake dust? The brakes feel fine, but not excellent...so I may change the discs and pads, and wonder whether the cheap VX pads are ok, or whether to go for the OEM ones?
I switched to GM ceramics on my Catera, virtually no dust.

You do need good rotors/discs with these was my experience in the past.  My previous garage put cheap rotors and cheap ceramics, pretty bad combo.

GM in north America for sure offers ceramics as an option.

Cheers.

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