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[feeutfo]

I'm aware the govt have increased the recommended depth of insulation to about 2 feet or something daft, and our loft has about 2 inches at the most, I intend to insulate further and increase the depth as we gat some condensation on occasion.

Problem at the moment is it gets exceptionally warm up stairs, presumably the insulation is allowing the heat from the loft space to leak into the 1st floor and warm it up excessively, there is also no insulation jacket on the hot water tank in the airing cupboard on the landing other than the polystyrene type stuff they spray on.

It's difficult to set the heating up in winter as all the radiators are off in the bedrooms yet still too warm, and downstairs is usually too cool in winter even though the radiators are all on. It's all to cock. I' m aware warm air rises and we try to keep the kitchen door shut to prevent any cooking heat getting up the stairs, but nothing makes any odds really.

Any loft laggers noticed any great difference before and after?

Ta.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yep....I went from 100mm of loft insulation to 250mm, much warmer in the winter plus a little cooler in the summer (not much though).

I also had cavity wall insultaion fitted to (100 quid).

The spray on foam you have on your immersion heater is very good insulation, a jacket will add very little.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yep....I went from 100mm of loft insulation to 250mm, much warmer in the winter plus a little cooler in the summer (not much though).

I also had cavity wall insultaion fitted to (100 quid).

The spray on foam you have on your immersion heater is very good insulation, a jacket will add very little.

I should add.....where are you getting condensation?

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

Yep....I went from 100mm of loft insulation to 250mm, much warmer in the winter plus a little cooler in the summer (not much though).

I also had cavity wall insultaion fitted to (100 quid).

The spray on foam you have on your immersion heater is very good insulation, a jacket will add very little.

How much is that in old money (inches) mark?.....

[Marks DTM Calib]

er 4 and 10 I think

[Nickbat]

presumably the insulation is allowing the heat from the loft space to leak into the 1st floor and warm it up excessively.

I think that is nigh on impossible because hot air cannot leak downwards. What your getting is a transfer of heat from downstairs to upstairs and this is a continuous process and the upstairs will get hotter and hotter throughout the day. It is very noticeable during the winter months. If you hold a lighted candle near the stair tread, you'll see the flame bend downwards...move it up towards the top of the stairwell and it will bend downwards as the cold air sinks down. The reverse is obviously true in the summer.

Apparently, there is a new material on the market which is incredibly effective as insulation and takes up a fraction of the depth. Trouble is, I can't remember the name and I'm too busy at the moment to Google. I'll try later if no one gets there first.   

[feeutfo]

Yep....I went from 100mm of loft insulation to 250mm, much warmer in the winter plus a little cooler in the summer (not much though).

I also had cavity wall insultaion fitted to (100 quid).

The spray on foam you have on your immersion heater is very good insulation, a jacket will add very little.

I should add.....where are you getting condensation?

on windows upstairs but also in the corners of bedrooms walls to ceiling that are adgacent external to walls.

[feeutfo]

i'm also concerned if the insulation is that much thicker it will block the ventilation where the eves meet the brick work by the guttering. There is no roof vent in thekridge line on the 4beds in the estate as there are on the 3 beds for some reason.

[mudflap]

Since i had loft insulation installed there is a huge difference - i had to have the central heating radiators re-routed, the ones downstairs are now the hottest and upstairs it is too hot for them to be on at all in winter, and especially with the double glazing   

[Marks DTM Calib]

i'm also concerned if the insulation is that much thicker it will block the ventilation where the eves meet the brick work by the guttering. There is no roof vent in thekridge line on the 4beds in the estate as there are on the 3 beds for some reason.

You shouldn't be getting condensation on walls!

Windows yes

What year was the house built.

As for the eaves, if its fairly modern then there should be a set of channels to stop the insulation from blocking the gap. If there isnt then its a case of installing the insulation so as to maintain the ventilation or install some duct/waste pipe to maintain it at the eaves.

[tidla]

if the walls are cold enough, the water vapour will be drawn especially in the corners/outside walls.
raise the dew point/increase the heat.

similar thread a few weeks back with piccys

(slightly different senario of a concrete flat roof)

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1277591187

[Radar]

Yep....I went from 100mm of loft insulation to 250mm, much warmer in the winter plus a little cooler in the summer (not much though).

I also had cavity wall insultaion fitted to (100 quid).

The spray on foam you have on your immersion heater is very good insulation, a jacket will add very little.

Similar experience to Mark. Npower charged 150 each for loft and cavity and i notice that it keeps the temperature more constant. This helped lot with the last winter being a long cold spell. When they did they loft they did leave a small gap by the eaves thus allowing things to breathe. If you have not done so already i would recommend checking you are on the most competitive energy tariff as this can save you loads!!

[feeutfo]

i'm also concerned if the insulation is that much thicker it will block the ventilation where the eves meet the brick work by the guttering. There is no roof vent in thekridge line on the 4beds in the estate as there are on the 3 beds for some reason.

You shouldn't be getting condensation on walls!

Windows yes

What year was the house built.

As for the eaves, if its fairly modern then there should be a set of channels to stop the insulation from blocking the gap. If there isnt then its a case of installing the insulation so as to maintain the ventilation or install some duct/waste pipe to maintain it at the eaves.

Its only about an inch triangle in the corner with the majority on the ceiling.

Windows are double glazed but don't have vents on them.

Not sure but it's about 30 years old afaik

No such provision sadly, I guess it's too old for all that.


Needs doing though certainly. Bloody horrible job.

[tidla]

vents on the windows will help.
about £4 quid each and will certainly help the air curculation.

[feeutfo]

vents on the windows will help.
about £4 quid each and will certainly help the air curculation.

Good idea,cheers.