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Messages - MonzaGSE

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31
Omega General Help / Re: X20xev cambelt failure?
« on: 27 June 2020, 12:40:37 »
Got the cambelt cover of while she has her nap. Belt had broke:( So i guess this means new engine.

32
Omega General Help / Re: X20xev cambelt failure?
« on: 27 June 2020, 10:06:12 »
Hehe. She was very keen on helping when we had to push the Omega out of the way when we had towed it home this morning. She grabbed the front bumper and really gave it everything she had:) However i dont really see the patience or attention span there to give me enough time to get the cambelt cover of:p

33
Omega General Help / Re: X20xev cambelt failure?
« on: 27 June 2020, 09:29:51 »
Yep i will do that. But since girlfriend is at work im babysitting our two year old daughter. Thats really a full time job!

34
Omega General Help / X20xev cambelt failure?
« on: 27 June 2020, 08:26:02 »
Girlfriend went to work this morning. Phoned me after making it half way there. Had heard a loud «click» from engine bay and the Omega just stopped dead in its tracks. Car wouldnt restart. Drove there myself and found all dashlights working as they should and starter also works. However engine sounds kind of weird when starter runs. Seems to be very low compression. Didnt want to try to much as i dont want to make anything worse.
What puzzled me is that i have had two cambelt failures in the past. (X30xe and Ford pinto engine) both lost all compression and just spun around on the starter without any resistance. This x20xe however seems to have some compression but it seems to spin over to easily.
Could the belt have jumped a tooth? And can the engine then be salvageable? Can the cambelt snap  without engine loosing all compression?

35
Omega General Help / Re: 97 x20xev no fast idle
« on: 03 June 2020, 20:21:19 »
Thanks for the answer. Was planning to check out the ecu temp sensor, but what i didnt mention in my post was that the battery also has been weak. The car starts but only just. Battery charger hasnt really helped either. So decided to go for a new battery before any more checks. Installed new battery today and car started and ran perfectly. Fast idle at around 1100-1200 then after awhile dropped down to 800-900 rpm. Didnt miss a beat.
Didnt mention the battery issue as i didnt think it was related. But now i start to wonder. Can a worn out battery cause this issue? Would have thought once the engine started the alternator would  pick up the slack from a bad battery. But for now all seems to be well... lets hope it continues this way:)

36
Omega General Help / 97 x20xev no fast idle
« on: 02 June 2020, 15:57:56 »
Ive got a 1997 x20xev estate. Has been running fine until now. When engine cold it will only fire up with som throttle. And when it does fire it dies again without throttle. After revving engine a little bit it idles rough at about 700-800. Once engine been running for a couple of minutes it drives and idles just fine. But no fast idle when cold. Does this sound ICV related or is it something else? Stalling and rough idling is only on cold engine.

37
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 1994 Omega dead remote
« on: 19 May 2020, 13:33:58 »
Im not sure how much is involved in changing the centrallocking/immobilizer system? What parts are needed to match? Car has central locking and immobilizer but no alarm. As i understand the engine ecu dont really have anything to do with it on the IR system. Dont know if the immobilizer is build into the central locking ecu or if its a standalone unit.

38
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: 1994 Omega dead remote
« on: 19 May 2020, 09:44:38 »
Dealer did provide me with a newer part number for it 90512397

39
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / 1994 Omega dead remote
« on: 19 May 2020, 09:15:39 »
The infrared remote on girlfriends Omega suddenly died yesterday. Car wouldnt start because of immobilizer. Had to go home to get spare key to get the car to start. The spare key have a bad microswitch but works. The key she has been using have been in good condition before it suddenly died. Changed batteries two times and even took it apart. 6v gets from the batteries to the circuit board inside the remote but nothing happens. The little red light dont light up and car dont react. All solderjoints look Ok to an amateur. Talked to Opel dealer who said these remotes are no longer available. They also said that remote needs to be new. A used remote from a different car cant be reprogrammed. Parts number on defective remote are 90459461 and 90460834. Both are stamped on it.
The question is do anybody know a place to get a new remote, and is it true that a good used one wont work? As i have previously understood the old infrared system requires Tech 1 to programme.

40
They will fit, have them one two of our pfl’s. Might be some extra holes for the indicator/trim piece. Cant remember. But either way dosent matter since they will be covered by the preface trim anyway.

41
When looking at your pictures it seems to me that you have the cam and TPS connector swapped.

42
Can you see any pin Numbers on the throttle position sensor? According to Haynes Brown/green is pin 1, blue/black is pin 2 and brown/blue is pin 3.
Cam sensor should have grey/red on pin 1, grey/black on pin 2 and what i assume is brown on pin 3.

Edit: the wire you have marked «shielded» should go to pin 3 on cam sensor would be my best bet.

43
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: electrical problem
« on: 01 February 2020, 12:20:54 »
So if i understand you correctly, all the exterior lights on the car actually works as they should, your problem is only the instrument cluster lights? If so that would indicate either bad/missing earth to the instrument cluster or a faulty instrument cluster. Easily removed by first pulling out the two centre air vents. This reveals two screws that hold the airvent frame in place. Remove this and one screw holding the instrument will be revealed. Turning steering wheel 90 degrees to each side reveals two screws facing the driver that holds the top half of the steering coloumn cover in place. Remove this and the second screw holding instrument in place can be seen. Remove the two screws holding instrument and pull it out fra computer side. Be careful to disconnect computer wiring once accesible and dont turn ignition on with instrument disconnected.
Once instrument is removed you should be able to check if the earth cable for it has a good earth. If  thats ok then i would assume the instrument is in need of repair/replacement.

44
Try a resync of the remote. Method varies slightly according to age of the car, but should be in the manual. As to the seats, check the connectors for the heating elements under each seat. A multimeter will tell you if you got power to the seats, and also could be used to check continouity in the seat elements. Have found from experience that the fault may be in the connector itself as this lies on the floor and suffers if the floor gets wet for example.

45
Omega General Help / Re: Display Won't Go Out
« on: 20 January 2020, 12:21:28 »
Dont know. Lhd cars have the alarm/central locking ecu behind the passenger kick panel. Wiring runs there and further down the sill to the back. But there are cable trays with a massive amount of wiring across both front footwells. I believe the wire you are looking for is red with a white tracer. Do you have remote control for the radio on the steering wheel? Do those buttons also stay lit? Mine didnt have them but i believe they are powered by the same line. Easiest way to confirm if this is your problem would be to remove radio, locate the red/white wire behind it and disconnect the one that goes to the mid from the rest of the loom. Removing the radio alone wont help. If display now works normally(without radio info) the red/white wire between display/radio/steering wheel control/CD autochanger is your problem.
I have never owned a facelift so cant be sure if the wiring colours are the same.

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