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32
Omega General Help / Re: Engine "Cleaners" - a good idea or not?
« on: 29 June 2009, 19:23:59 »Quote
Hi All
My 98 2.5 V6 is "finally" working on all 6 cylinders after the garage decided to jet wash the engine before I bought her, slowly killing the spark plugs, leads and eventually DIS! [smiley=angry.gif]
However, the mechanic I use (another Omega fanatic!) says it still feels sluggish - even though the multiram system is now working too.
The problem (I suspect) is that the old girl has only done 29,000 miles in nearly 11 years - yes 11 years!!! The old guy that had her before has had her from new, and last year only did 700 miles.
Could it be her innards are a little clagged from just pottering down the shops and golf course?
The other thing is the gearbox seems to think it has 5 gears instead of 4................ somewhere between 3rd & 4th.
The question I have is, on an engine this old with this amount of mileage, is it a good idea to pour a bottle of these so called "cleaners" into a full fuel tank?
The tickover is a little bit like the engine is "shivering" when warm, so could it be grotty injectors etc?
Any advice re the cleaning idea is much appreciated, as I dont want to cause myself any further expense at the moment!!!
Cheers peeps!
Are you sure that it is not just the mechanical lock
engaging when you go over approx 50mph in 4th?
This drops the revs down as the lock goes in and
can make it seem like you've gone up another gear
if you're not used to the car.
33
Omega General Help / Re: urgent help :(
« on: 10 June 2009, 22:04:01 »
There can be many reasons why your battery has lost
its charge. Before replacing the battery check out
your system first.
You may have a current drain or a faulty charging
system. You don't want to spend money on a battery
and then find out it's your alternator when your new
battery loses its charge.
Have a read through this:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1225724099
its charge. Before replacing the battery check out
your system first.
You may have a current drain or a faulty charging
system. You don't want to spend money on a battery
and then find out it's your alternator when your new
battery loses its charge.
Have a read through this:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1225724099
35
Omega General Help / Re: fault code test
« on: 12 May 2009, 18:39:02 »
You don't get a code 12 on the 2.0L, it gives the fault codes
or nothing if you have no faults stored.
It also gives 4 digit codes, not 2 digit, on a '98.
or nothing if you have no faults stored.
It also gives 4 digit codes, not 2 digit, on a '98.
36
Omega General Help / Re: is he correct?
« on: 13 May 2009, 17:26:38 »
Very good guide on the following link by Auto Addict
for the 2.2.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1162397695
Spraying WD40 into it is laughable.
WD40 is a water dispersant and will leave a sticky
residue that is likely to attract gunge and build
up problems for you.
for the 2.2.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1162397695
Spraying WD40 into it is laughable.
WD40 is a water dispersant and will leave a sticky
residue that is likely to attract gunge and build
up problems for you.
37
Omega General Help / Re: bolt snapped doing icva bleeder
« on: 12 May 2009, 22:54:58 »
You will find it a lot easier to remove the broken Jet than
change the manifold. It should come out fairly easily
as there will be no torque loading on it as it's sheared
off and you've already removed any 'stiction' when you
took it out for cleaning.
You won't even have to drill it to use the screw extractor, it's
already drilled right through for you by Vauxhall
If you decide to change the manifold, I'll lay odds that on
Saturday afternoon you'll be on here asking how you can
remove a sheared inlet manifold stud.
change the manifold. It should come out fairly easily
as there will be no torque loading on it as it's sheared
off and you've already removed any 'stiction' when you
took it out for cleaning.
You won't even have to drill it to use the screw extractor, it's
already drilled right through for you by Vauxhall
If you decide to change the manifold, I'll lay odds that on
Saturday afternoon you'll be on here asking how you can
remove a sheared inlet manifold stud.
38
Omega General Help / Re: bolt snapped doing icva bleeder
« on: 12 May 2009, 22:12:12 »
If the Jet has sheared inside the manifold then you will no longer
have the 1.6mm restriction. This will result in the engine sucking
in a large amount of unmetered air downstream of the MAF.
You would therefore need to block the hole prior to running the
engine which would just put you back to where you were with
the originally blocked Jet. Don't block it with anything that could
get sucked through!!!
If you can't remove the water pipes from the Banjo without
damaging them, consider leaving them attached and blank
off the Banjo with a couple of drilled metal plates and a nut and
bolt. You will need to make a couple of seals for the plate
(possibly a couple of circles made out of an old bicycle inner
tube?) and wrap the ends of the bolt and nut with some PTFE
tape. You can make the plates out of the cut-off bottoms
of a couple of baked bean tins.
This is just a temporary 'get you home' bodge whilst you wait
for your parts, not an engineering masterpiece.
have the 1.6mm restriction. This will result in the engine sucking
in a large amount of unmetered air downstream of the MAF.
You would therefore need to block the hole prior to running the
engine which would just put you back to where you were with
the originally blocked Jet. Don't block it with anything that could
get sucked through!!!
If you can't remove the water pipes from the Banjo without
damaging them, consider leaving them attached and blank
off the Banjo with a couple of drilled metal plates and a nut and
bolt. You will need to make a couple of seals for the plate
(possibly a couple of circles made out of an old bicycle inner
tube?) and wrap the ends of the bolt and nut with some PTFE
tape. You can make the plates out of the cut-off bottoms
of a couple of baked bean tins.
This is just a temporary 'get you home' bodge whilst you wait
for your parts, not an engineering masterpiece.
39
Omega General Help / Re: bolt snapped doing icva bleeder
« on: 12 May 2009, 19:23:12 »
You'll probably find that you let the sealing washer slip off
the land next to the manifold, that's why I warned to watch
for this in the guide, and then deformed it when tightening.
You will need a new Jet and sealing washers from a scrappy
or from someone on here who deals in used/ new spares.
In the meantime, see if the water hoses will remove from the
banjo easily without breaking. If so, join them together with
a piece of tubing, either internally and use the existing clips,
or externally and use a larger pair of jubilee clips.
This will allow you to drive the car without losing coolant.
The old Jet should remove easily, if you've sheared the end
off it there will be no torque to overcome. Either use a screw
extractor as in this link
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/20084/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Stud-Extractor-Set-8-Pc
or try wedging a tapered dumpy screwdriver in the remains
and see if it will turn it out. Don't do this if there is any chance
of damaging the inlet manifold thread (the bit that the Jet screws
into)
When you do it next time, ensure the sealing washers are
correctly positioned on the lands of the Jet.
the land next to the manifold, that's why I warned to watch
for this in the guide, and then deformed it when tightening.
You will need a new Jet and sealing washers from a scrappy
or from someone on here who deals in used/ new spares.
In the meantime, see if the water hoses will remove from the
banjo easily without breaking. If so, join them together with
a piece of tubing, either internally and use the existing clips,
or externally and use a larger pair of jubilee clips.
This will allow you to drive the car without losing coolant.
The old Jet should remove easily, if you've sheared the end
off it there will be no torque to overcome. Either use a screw
extractor as in this link
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/20084/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Stud-Extractor-Set-8-Pc
or try wedging a tapered dumpy screwdriver in the remains
and see if it will turn it out. Don't do this if there is any chance
of damaging the inlet manifold thread (the bit that the Jet screws
into)
When you do it next time, ensure the sealing washers are
correctly positioned on the lands of the Jet.
40
Omega General Help / Re: Mystery noise. Not Wheelbearing.........
« on: 24 April 2009, 21:59:52 »Quote
Posted earlier about an odd noise from the rear. From my initial post I led people on OOF to point towards a wheel bearing fault. It seems this is not the case............
Just to recap, the rumbling grating only appears when turning left at slow speeds with the engine under load (i.e. not coasting).
During high speed left hand cornering and in a straight line the noise is not present.
It can make the noise when sat stationary in 'D' and I blip the throttle.
It also seems to come more from the centre/rear of the car. Sound does travel I know.
I have had the wheels laser aligned and balanced to put them out of the equation.
I am having trouble remembering when I first heard this noise but, to list what I have done may help.
I have replaced the rear springs which of course involved dropping the rear diff etc
I have replaced the gearbox which involved removing the cat sections
The gearbox has fresh Dex III in and the diff has fresh EP 90 in it.
I am quite confident though that it was fine before I changed the box and the springs. But it may have been there before and i just didn't notice.
I have now had it though three garages including Vxand they all give me different opinions leaving me rather confused
If any one has come across this before could you point me in the right direction.
Thanks in advance guys and gals
Check your Engine and Gearbox mounts for condition and security.
I had the same problem on my old Merc 190 and found that one of
mounting bolts had worked loose. This allowed the engine and
drivetrain to wind-up and twist out of line in reaction to the torque
delivered by the engine and grind and vibrate against the chassis.
On mine it happened when taking right hand bends under load
and rattled when blipping the throttle violently when stationary.
I alos had the same thing on a Singer Vogue (that takes me back
a bit) when one engine mount disbonded and caused light tramping
on the rear axle.
Just a few thoughts as you seem to have already checked the obvious
41
Omega General Help / Re: engine stalls when idling
« on: 22 April 2009, 18:12:00 »
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1194007453
Do the simple suction test on the small breather pipe as quoted
in the above link.
If no suction, follow the guide. Post up if you have questions
or problems. Most 4 pot folk on here have cleaned their Breathers/Jet and will be able to give you answers.
Do the simple suction test on the small breather pipe as quoted
in the above link.
If no suction, follow the guide. Post up if you have questions
or problems. Most 4 pot folk on here have cleaned their Breathers/Jet and will be able to give you answers.
42
Omega General Help / Re: Hi, I'm new to all this!
« on: 14 March 2009, 17:39:14 »
albitz beat me to it and in a much more concise post.
43
Omega General Help / Re: Hi, I'm new to all this!
« on: 14 March 2009, 17:37:27 »
As your remote is not operating the central locking either,
it may just need synchronizing.
As you are having to open your car with the key, switch your
ignition on and off, as you are are doing, to silence the alarm
and get yourself back to square one and remove the key.
Put the the key back in and turn on the ignition again.
Briefly press one of the remote buttons within 30 seconds
of switching on the ignition. (Make sure the light flashes on
your dodgy key fob.)
If the central locking locks and then unlocks then your remote
is synchronized.
it may just need synchronizing.
As you are having to open your car with the key, switch your
ignition on and off, as you are are doing, to silence the alarm
and get yourself back to square one and remove the key.
Put the the key back in and turn on the ignition again.
Briefly press one of the remote buttons within 30 seconds
of switching on the ignition. (Make sure the light flashes on
your dodgy key fob.)
If the central locking locks and then unlocks then your remote
is synchronized.
44
Omega General Help / Re: Battery Recharging - not!
« on: 14 March 2009, 15:59:31 »
Kevin Wood has a done a brilliant write-up on the following
link, which will get you to check your system out in a logical
manner.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1225724099
link, which will get you to check your system out in a logical
manner.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1225724099
45
Omega General Help / Re: Newbie needs help ( don't we all )
« on: 07 January 2009, 15:19:39 »
If your brake pedal is hard it's probably because you're not getting
any servo assistance.
This could be because you have a disconnection or break in your
vacuum system pipe network.
The assistance is given by your vacuum system which is downstream
of your MAF. If you do have a break in your vacuum system, this
would result in your engine drawing in large quantities of unmetered
air which would give you very rough/ poor running.
Go to your brake reservoir, behind your coolant water expansion/top-up
reservoir, and you'll see a big round metal lump attached to the rear
engine bulkhead just in front of where the driver sits.
Find the black rubber hose coming out of it. Follow this hose, and all
branches out of it until you find a disconnection/ break/ hole.
Fix that and get your brakes working again. When you've fixed your
brakes, then you can investigate your EGR paperclip fault.
any servo assistance.
This could be because you have a disconnection or break in your
vacuum system pipe network.
The assistance is given by your vacuum system which is downstream
of your MAF. If you do have a break in your vacuum system, this
would result in your engine drawing in large quantities of unmetered
air which would give you very rough/ poor running.
Go to your brake reservoir, behind your coolant water expansion/top-up
reservoir, and you'll see a big round metal lump attached to the rear
engine bulkhead just in front of where the driver sits.
Find the black rubber hose coming out of it. Follow this hose, and all
branches out of it until you find a disconnection/ break/ hole.
Fix that and get your brakes working again. When you've fixed your
brakes, then you can investigate your EGR paperclip fault.