76
General Car Chat / Re: Lotus Esprit
« on: 06 September 2016, 20:58:10 »
Whats the problem (s) A lotus never has just one problem 
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77
General Car Chat / Re: Senator A Build
« on: 05 September 2016, 22:53:13 »
As you can see from the next pic repairs were required to the bottom of the left quarter panel and also to the base of the parcel shelf support.
The only way to gain a good access to the base of the shelf support was to go in through the bottom of the quarter panel making nice straight cuts so a new section could be made and fitted. The bottom of the support is also profiled so this had to be made
Access hole cut in the quarter panel and bottom of support removed
better view from the outside
New lower support on the left
Fitted
Outer filled
I had to tidy up a few small spots around the bottom edges of the rear panel and the other quarter panel. It was at this point things got busy. The original plane was to strip the lower half of the car to bare metal and paint up to the body mouldings, which once re-fitted would hide the seams.
So out with some proper paint stripper but as i started to remove the paint from the lower section of the left rear quarter i found out that it was full of filler which reacted with the stripper, bugger. I later found out that the car had had a new quarter fitted at some time in the past so i ended up stripping the whole panel back to bear metal and starting again which ended up with the shell being taken back to bare metal as well.
The reason i ended up doing this was due to the amount of coats of paint, there was twelve different coats in the end and as we had no way of knowing what the paint was we didn't want to take the risk, i did talk with the painter about using a bar coat but if you cut through the coat while keying you won't know until the paint goes on and reacts.
Once all the doors, bonnet and boot lid had been stripped and repaired, they and the shell were treated to a coat of 2k etch primer followed by four litres of high build primer
Four litres of primer done.
The shell as now ready for paint but would not get the final key of the primer until its in the body shop but to get it there all the front and rear suspension had to be stripped, repaired, painted and re-built but first there was a matter of the oil cooler to sort. The Senator never had one fitted as standard but the Monza did and as this car is going to North Carolina the summer temps can top 40+c so the old CIH is going to need all the help we could give it.
Right, going to finish there as i need a cuppa and i'll pick up on the cooler mock up next time
Cheers
Andy
The only way to gain a good access to the base of the shelf support was to go in through the bottom of the quarter panel making nice straight cuts so a new section could be made and fitted. The bottom of the support is also profiled so this had to be made
Access hole cut in the quarter panel and bottom of support removed
better view from the outside
New lower support on the left
Fitted
Outer filled
I had to tidy up a few small spots around the bottom edges of the rear panel and the other quarter panel. It was at this point things got busy. The original plane was to strip the lower half of the car to bare metal and paint up to the body mouldings, which once re-fitted would hide the seams.
So out with some proper paint stripper but as i started to remove the paint from the lower section of the left rear quarter i found out that it was full of filler which reacted with the stripper, bugger. I later found out that the car had had a new quarter fitted at some time in the past so i ended up stripping the whole panel back to bear metal and starting again which ended up with the shell being taken back to bare metal as well.
The reason i ended up doing this was due to the amount of coats of paint, there was twelve different coats in the end and as we had no way of knowing what the paint was we didn't want to take the risk, i did talk with the painter about using a bar coat but if you cut through the coat while keying you won't know until the paint goes on and reacts.
Once all the doors, bonnet and boot lid had been stripped and repaired, they and the shell were treated to a coat of 2k etch primer followed by four litres of high build primer
Four litres of primer done.
The shell as now ready for paint but would not get the final key of the primer until its in the body shop but to get it there all the front and rear suspension had to be stripped, repaired, painted and re-built but first there was a matter of the oil cooler to sort. The Senator never had one fitted as standard but the Monza did and as this car is going to North Carolina the summer temps can top 40+c so the old CIH is going to need all the help we could give it.
Right, going to finish there as i need a cuppa and i'll pick up on the cooler mock up next time
Cheers
Andy
78
General Car Chat / Re: Senator A Build
« on: 05 September 2016, 22:52:06 »
My god the time flies, got time on my hands at the moment so here goes, two years of updates.
So with the inner wheel wells sorted it was time to get all the rear suspension off the car and start work on the rear chassis legs. Both legs showed signs of old repairs and they were just patches over patches so the rot has just carried on, time to cut out the rot.
New chassis legs are just not available anywhere, even my contacts in Europe could not locate any so I'd need to re-build using 2.5mm plate for the inner sections and 1.00mm plate for the outer sections.
The first job was to find out how far the rot went so disc cutter in hand i started cutting the outer skin off and removing it from the inner section until i hit good inner metal. I got the outside & underside outer skins cut back and then attacked the inner skin starting with the lower section first.
Now this wasn't the easiest part to make and it took an hour or so to get the profile correct by hand and once it was the correct shape i welded a couple of bridging pieces into each end of the leg then seem and plug welded the new part in place. This was then repeated for the two inner side section and the outer skin. The right rear leg was i bit more involved as i had to remove the spring seat plate as the rot had got underneath that.
This is the hole i started with
Inner & outer skins removed
Inside view of the leg, This will be pumped with a couple of litres of cavity wax in the end
Old inner skin removed
New inner skin, zinc coated ready to go in. You can't see it in the pic but the narrow end also has a longways kink in it as well
Under side fitted
Better View
Outer section all welded in
Outer skin of the right rear leg removed
Spring seat plate and outer skin removed
One of the repair section ready to be cut out.
Next on the list was the inner wall of the spare wheel well. The seam had started to go so that was marked out and repair section made up
Marked ready to cut
There's a hole in my wheel well
New Panel
Fitted, welder has having a hissy fit at the time so welds not as tidy as normal but cleaned up ok
Finished view from the inside all painted
Thats it for now
Andy
So with the inner wheel wells sorted it was time to get all the rear suspension off the car and start work on the rear chassis legs. Both legs showed signs of old repairs and they were just patches over patches so the rot has just carried on, time to cut out the rot.
New chassis legs are just not available anywhere, even my contacts in Europe could not locate any so I'd need to re-build using 2.5mm plate for the inner sections and 1.00mm plate for the outer sections.
The first job was to find out how far the rot went so disc cutter in hand i started cutting the outer skin off and removing it from the inner section until i hit good inner metal. I got the outside & underside outer skins cut back and then attacked the inner skin starting with the lower section first.
Now this wasn't the easiest part to make and it took an hour or so to get the profile correct by hand and once it was the correct shape i welded a couple of bridging pieces into each end of the leg then seem and plug welded the new part in place. This was then repeated for the two inner side section and the outer skin. The right rear leg was i bit more involved as i had to remove the spring seat plate as the rot had got underneath that.
This is the hole i started with
Inner & outer skins removed
Inside view of the leg, This will be pumped with a couple of litres of cavity wax in the end
Old inner skin removed
New inner skin, zinc coated ready to go in. You can't see it in the pic but the narrow end also has a longways kink in it as well
Under side fitted
Better View
Outer section all welded in
Outer skin of the right rear leg removed
Spring seat plate and outer skin removed
One of the repair section ready to be cut out.
Next on the list was the inner wall of the spare wheel well. The seam had started to go so that was marked out and repair section made up
Marked ready to cut
There's a hole in my wheel well
New Panel
Fitted, welder has having a hissy fit at the time so welds not as tidy as normal but cleaned up ok
Finished view from the inside all painted
Thats it for now
Andy
79
General Car Chat / Re: So what have you done to your car today?
« on: 04 September 2016, 19:43:56 »
Cheers Guys, sorry for the thread hijack
80
General Car Chat / Re: So what have you done to your car today?
« on: 03 September 2016, 22:13:43 »
Can,t blame Andyc as he is off sick. Get well soon Andy.
Bit more than sick,had a tumor removed from my large bowel in a five hour op. MRI scan the other day came back clear and i start my mop up Chemo on Monday week. Its amazing how you can go from feeling the best you have done all year to the table within a week.
Otherwise doing good and have been in the workshop doing some painting and should be back at work on the 19th
Cheers
Andy
Bit more than sick,had a tumor removed from my large bowel in a five hour op. MRI scan the other day came back clear and i start my mop up Chemo on Monday week. Its amazing how you can go from feeling the best you have done all year to the table within a week.
Otherwise doing good and have been in the workshop doing some painting and should be back at work on the 19th
Cheers
Andy
81
Omega General Help / Re: star silver colour variations
« on: 03 September 2016, 18:40:13 »
Silver is one of the hardest colours to match, even the pros will spend a lot of time with shades and feathering in to the next panels
Andy
Andy
82
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: WANTED - MV6 (Prodrive) front bumper towing eye cover
« on: 29 August 2016, 10:01:05 »
Silly idea and memory is a little cloudy but if you have a couple of spare ones already would it not be possible to get these 3D printed
Andy
Andy
83
Omega General Help / Trouble Code Help
« on: 24 August 2016, 23:49:16 »
Hi Guys
A friend of mind in the US has just had a couple of TC's pop up and as I haven't access to anything at the moment because i'm off work after a major operation.
The TC Codes are
411 - incorrect flow secondary air system
440 - evaporative emission control system mal function
These codes have only popped up after doing a rad flush as he was having temp issues but to me they don't seem connected
Any advise please
Cheers
Andy
A friend of mind in the US has just had a couple of TC's pop up and as I haven't access to anything at the moment because i'm off work after a major operation.
The TC Codes are
411 - incorrect flow secondary air system
440 - evaporative emission control system mal function
These codes have only popped up after doing a rad flush as he was having temp issues but to me they don't seem connected
Any advise please
Cheers
Andy
84
Omega General Help / Re: X registered 2.5V6 estate
« on: 21 August 2016, 18:35:33 »
The belt kits split according to the engine number
Andy
Andy
85
General Car Chat / Least Economical
« on: 18 August 2016, 20:30:24 »
According to MSN Cars the least economical new car for sale in the todays is new VXR8 Maloo R8 LSA that has a 15.3 MPG................
Who cares its a 550 HP pick up truck that can take on an M5
Andy
Who cares its a 550 HP pick up truck that can take on an M5
Andy
86
General Car Chat / Re: Dual Ram Question
« on: 21 June 2016, 20:59:55 »
Cheers Guys
The problem with Omega set up I will not have a lot of room for the inlet trunking as the engine will be mount central on the cross member so I can run the AC compressor, with other V6 conversions on a Manta B the engine sits tight againist the bulk head so the gear box will fit the mounts and this puts the front crank pully just in front of the cross member so no room for the compressor.
I will also be swapping the air box from the right front corner to the left and the battery from left to right so a single TB is better suited to the job.
A friend of mind is already running a Vectra B set up in his A series and has never had a problem with flat spots on this system and I do have all his wiring diagrams so building a one off loom isn't a problem, done enough one off looms already and the Manta doesn't weigh anything like an Omega.
The only reason for looking at the early Cavalier ECU was the fact it would be more or less a plug and play and I wouldn't have to hide all the Vac pipes and box but I could tuck the box behind the front panel as long as there is enough room with the large Omega washer bottle fitted
Its going to be a while before I get there as I have three customers cars in front so I only get the odd hour now and again
Cheers
Andy
The problem with Omega set up I will not have a lot of room for the inlet trunking as the engine will be mount central on the cross member so I can run the AC compressor, with other V6 conversions on a Manta B the engine sits tight againist the bulk head so the gear box will fit the mounts and this puts the front crank pully just in front of the cross member so no room for the compressor.
I will also be swapping the air box from the right front corner to the left and the battery from left to right so a single TB is better suited to the job.
A friend of mind is already running a Vectra B set up in his A series and has never had a problem with flat spots on this system and I do have all his wiring diagrams so building a one off loom isn't a problem, done enough one off looms already and the Manta doesn't weigh anything like an Omega.
The only reason for looking at the early Cavalier ECU was the fact it would be more or less a plug and play and I wouldn't have to hide all the Vac pipes and box but I could tuck the box behind the front panel as long as there is enough room with the large Omega washer bottle fitted
Its going to be a while before I get there as I have three customers cars in front so I only get the odd hour now and again
Cheers
Andy
87
General Car Chat / Re: Dual Ram Question
« on: 20 June 2016, 23:47:12 »
CIH is long gone and no its not going to be another 400r. It is, if I can find the rest of the parts from Europe factory (ish) Air Con
Andy
Andy
88
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Aux connector for a CCR600
« on: 20 June 2016, 23:44:06 »
Our Astra G has a CCR 600 cassette unit with a four disc multi changer in the glove box. The changer is long past it and will not see any CD's, common problem with these units but the repair parts are not available.
Question is, is there any way of breaking into the harness from the head unit to multi changer and wire in a 3mm jack socket, I have seen kits available for other cars that will do this job but can not find any thing listed for GM
Cheers
Andy
Question is, is there any way of breaking into the harness from the head unit to multi changer and wire in a 3mm jack socket, I have seen kits available for other cars that will do this job but can not find any thing listed for GM
Cheers
Andy
89
General Car Chat / Dual Ram Question
« on: 20 June 2016, 23:12:09 »
Think I know the answer " Dirty great flat spot" but i'll ask all the same
First off this isn't on an Omega but it is a V6, bit of Cavalier V6 and a bit of Vectra V6. The plan is fitting a V6 to my Manta but to get around all the rubbish in the V6 like EGR Vac Valves etc and immobiliser the idea is to use and early Cavalier/Calibra ECU and harness so i will only have Cam, Crank, TB, Knock air mass to wire up plus there are only four wires to connect up to the ECU much like a 16v Red Top.
Now, due to the height of the engine the Omega inlet is going to be a bit high unless I put a bulge in the bonnet so I have a Vectra B inlet set up, the engine is being fully re-built and the oil filler will be moved so not to worry about that.
After all that the question is, if I remove the dual ram units from the back of the inlet manifold what will happen. I do have an Omega harness, ecu and key etc but i'd like to keep I simple.
Andy
First off this isn't on an Omega but it is a V6, bit of Cavalier V6 and a bit of Vectra V6. The plan is fitting a V6 to my Manta but to get around all the rubbish in the V6 like EGR Vac Valves etc and immobiliser the idea is to use and early Cavalier/Calibra ECU and harness so i will only have Cam, Crank, TB, Knock air mass to wire up plus there are only four wires to connect up to the ECU much like a 16v Red Top.
Now, due to the height of the engine the Omega inlet is going to be a bit high unless I put a bulge in the bonnet so I have a Vectra B inlet set up, the engine is being fully re-built and the oil filler will be moved so not to worry about that.
After all that the question is, if I remove the dual ram units from the back of the inlet manifold what will happen. I do have an Omega harness, ecu and key etc but i'd like to keep I simple.
Andy
90
Omega General Help / Re: Brakes question Omega 2.0 CD 2000 x reg
« on: 19 June 2016, 09:56:37 »
Can't remember the chassis break point but unless its a 2.0 8valve or a very early 2.0 16v then they are all the same, what year is your car?
Andy
Andy