Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => Omega Gallery => Topic started by: grifter on 16 November 2021, 20:14:34
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Not happy with one Omega, a senator and a couple of cavaliers, and always fancying an elite, I decided to buy this:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/877TfdSKMb3xNfRv9
89k Miles, partial dealer service history up to about 50k, not done too many miles each year, timing belt: was told it was changed 5 Years ago but no reciepts but there is one for it done at dealer...in 2011.. so I was a bit nervous driving it back 400 miles. also hoping things like the aux belt didn't go after having had very little use.
It behaved impeccably on the drive back, only things I noticed from my check over before buying is lights a bit faded, a little bit of crust starting on rear arches, clunking from F/N/S sounds like a roll bar link, and a slight speed related whine/droan although seemed to go away at 70 odd.
Couple of small dents on chassis leg where it'd probably been jacked by some teenager in a tyre shop plus EML light popped on about 250 miles in, likely the old cat sensor that I also have on my 2.6.
Looks like it's had a touch up on the top of N/S/F wing, paint got spots on it, like acne!
Pretty impressed by the rear electric blind, had a bit of time on the way back to play about with the multi-function display thing, totally different to the one on my 2.6. Couldn't reset the average mpg, it was at 24 when I left and slowly started incrementing up by 0.1 increments to 25, but calculating the fuel I used and miles I got around about 35mpg on trip back.
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Looks very nice indeed.👍
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It looks very good :y :y
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Nice, very nice! :y
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yes does look very nice indeed.the acne spots do seem to affect some of the silver ones but usually on the horizontal panels like bonnet roof or boot. yours looks pretty faultless.
what cavaliers have you got ? mk1 ? ?
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yes does look very nice indeed.the acne spots do seem to affect some of the silver ones but usually on the horizontal panels like bonnet roof or boot. yours looks pretty faultless.
what cavaliers have you got ? mk1 ? ?
There was some spots on the bonnet next to the top of the wing, which also had the spots. Never knew that was a problem with the silver ones, wasn't sure if it had had a bad paint job there.
It's the mk3's I've got, a runaround 1.8LS, and a diplomat I'm restoring back to it's former glory.
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Very nice.
Go on ......how much? :)
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Very nice.
Go on ......how much? :)
£1800....I checked the book price for a 200k miler and it was 1550 (Maybe a bit steep that price not sure), so since this has 89K thought not too bad a price all being said, originally wanted 2200 for it but I think he got the impression I could see it was needing some work and I was going to haggle.
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Very nice.
Go on ......how much? :)
£1800....I checked the book price for a 200k miler and it was 1550 (Maybe a bit steep that price not sure), so since this has 89K thought not too bad a price all being said, originally wanted 2200 for it but I think he got the impression I could see it was needing some work and I was going to haggle.
It certainly seems that Omega prices are on the up. :y
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yes does look very nice indeed.the acne spots do seem to affect some of the silver ones but usually on the horizontal panels like bonnet roof or boot. yours looks pretty faultless.
what cavaliers have you got ? mk1 ? ?
There was some spots on the bonnet next to the top of the wing, which also had the spots. Never knew that was a problem with the silver ones, wasn't sure if it had had a bad paint job there.
It's the mk3's I've got, a runaround 1.8LS, and a diplomat I'm restoring back to it's former glory.
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Very nice.
Go on ......how much? :)
£1800....I checked the book price for a 200k miler and it was 1550 (Maybe a bit steep that price not sure), so since this has 89K thought not too bad a price all being said, originally wanted 2200 for it but I think he got the impression I could see it was needing some work and I was going to haggle.
It certainly seems that Omega prices are on the up. :y
Got in before they went stratospheric!
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Very nice.
Go on ......how much? :)
£1800....I checked the book price for a 200k miler and it was 1550 (Maybe a bit steep that price not sure), so since this has 89K thought not too bad a price all being said, originally wanted 2200 for it but I think he got the impression I could see it was needing some work and I was going to haggle.
It certainly seems that Omega prices are on the up. :y
Got in before they went stratospheric!
Looks like a prime example. Sounds like a good buy to me, especially as it is a 3.2 :y
And in an extremely rare colour. ::) ::) ;)
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Is that rare colour for an omega, or an elite, or both?
First job done, remove power sounder. Noticed the scuttle cover is cracked as well, must of been when the windscreen was replaced, resulting in water leaking in through the crack and soaking that bit of foam to the nth degree. didn't remove it, but will when I've more time. Put tape over the crack until I get a replacement. Whoever had it off last also forgot to replace the rubber weather trim along the scuttle so water coming down the screen was pouring into the engine bay, nice touch, there was also beads of water on the power sounder connector terminals as the crack was right above this. Temp fix with tape over the join that the rubber trim would otherwise cover until I get a replacement rubber weather seal. General clean of mud and leaves out of the dark corners of the bulkhead where the inner wing meets it, nice conditions for holding moisture.
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9 out of 10 Omegas ever made were silver.
Allegedly :D
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9 out of 10 Omegas ever made were silver.
Allegedly :D
CoolI didn't really pick up on the joke there, makes sense as there are quite a few silver ones about.
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9 out of 10 Omegas ever made were silver.
Allegedly :D
I have four Elite saloons, three are Star Silver, and one is Petrol Blue.
I know everyone jokes about 'rare' Star Silver, but is there a reason why there were so many made in Silver compared to other colours? My Petrol Blue 3.2 seems a 'rare' colour for an Elite - it appeared to be more popular in CD trim, although still not common.
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Bonus being silver as it hides the dirt better lol, don't know why that is you'd think silver would really show dirt!
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"ULTRA RARE" Star Silver III might hide the dirt well ,BUT........
it's a completely different colour silver when it's washed though :D
Mine needs a bath :-X
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"ULTRA RARE" Star Silver III might hide the dirt well ,BUT........
it's a completely different colour from Star Silver II when it's washed though :D
Mine needs a bath :-X
It’s the rear quarters and roof that always give the game away :D
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9 out of 10 Omegas ever made were silver.
Allegedly :D
I have four Elite saloons, three are Star Silver, and one is Petrol Blue.
I know everyone jokes about 'rare' Star Silver, but is there a reason why there were so many made in Silver compared to other colours? My Petrol Blue 3.2 seems a 'rare' colour for an Elite - it appeared to be more popular in CD trim, although still not common.
I have owned 3 Omega.
Two were ultra rare Star silver with the other being a fetching shade of Constabulary white. :)
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Just noticed the battery tray bolt has been sheared off and the battery is loose, need a new clamp and remove the busted bolt. Soaking it in WD for a bit before attempting removal.
Other things needed so far:
replacement scuttle cover as it has a nice crack in it. Due to get a replacement this weekend.
Weatherstrip for scuttle cover (Suspecting this was not reinstalled after windscreen replacement (Worrying)) Although screen replacement looks done well.
Investigate clunking from front (Most likely the link pin)
Investigate droning sound, which actually sort of goes away with increased speed, not sure if bearing, hope it's not the diff as it's got a towbar.
Clean headlight reflectors
Gave it a basic wash so it looks more silver now! I haven't had the time (or the weather) to get it up on the ramp and give it a good once over yet.
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Nice example, on the cusp of the changeover so has the flat faced fat five spokes which suit the Elite well I think. Hopefully you'll get back any investment in the long term. Such a comfortable barge for wafting about, I get plenty of admiring comments for mine even when it hasn't been cleaned for a while. :y
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Nice example, on the cusp of the changeover so has the flat faced fat five spokes which suit the Elite well I think. Hopefully you'll get back any investment in the long term. Such a comfortable barge for wafting about, I get plenty of admiring comments for mine even when it hasn't been cleaned for a while. :y
Those alloys do really suit the barge, makes a difference to the handling as well, feels a lot more taught on the road, though I don't know if the suspension is stiffer maybe, didn't think it would be on an executive type model? Any pics of your own one be nice to see.
Managed to get the scuttle cover from a guy in the borders, he's got the full car & other stuff as well should I need it, and plenty of cavy spares, as well as a full cavy lying there, so will be visiting him again for a haul in the New Year.
Noticed a couple of other things including the rear indicators look very white, so I'm guessing will need new "orange" bulbs soon.
O/S Track control arm has a bit of play as well as the link pin rubber boot hanging off, suspected this was gone as I could hear it clunking when going over rough surfaces. The N/S front bearing is also making a speed-related clicking noise when I spin it, which I'm suspecting is the bearing because it's noisy when I drive it. The noise is more apparent when you're going slower and coming to stop you can hear the drone of the bearing turn into the clicking sound just before you stop.
Need to remove the caliper and stuff to make sure its not any noise coming from that, as there is otherwise no play in the bearing.
I also managed to reverse the towbar into the front of my 2.6 CD and make a nice ball shaped dent in the front bumper - plank of the week award!
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Nice example, on the cusp of the changeover so has the flat faced fat five spokes which suit the Elite well I think. Hopefully you'll get back any investment in the long term. Such a comfortable barge for wafting about, I get plenty of admiring comments for mine even when it hasn't been cleaned for a while. :y
Those alloys do really suit the barge, makes a difference to the handling as well, feels a lot more taught on the road, though I don't know if the suspension is stiffer maybe, didn't think it would be on an executive type model? Any pics of your own one be nice to see.
Managed to get the scuttle cover from a guy in the borders, he's got the full car & other stuff as well should I need it, and plenty of cavy spares, as well as a full cavy lying there, so will be visiting him again for a haul in the New Year.
Noticed a couple of other things including the rear indicators look very white, so I'm guessing will need new "orange" bulbs soon.
O/S Track control arm has a bit of play as well as the link pin rubber boot hanging off, suspected this was gone as I could hear it clunking when going over rough surfaces. The N/S front bearing is also making a speed-related clicking noise when I spin it, which I'm suspecting is the bearing because it's noisy when I drive it. The noise is more apparent when you're going slower and coming to stop you can hear the drone of the bearing turn into the clicking sound just before you stop.
Need to remove the caliper and stuff to make sure its not any noise coming from that, as there is otherwise no play in the bearing.
I also managed to reverse the towbar into the front of my 2.6 CD and make a nice ball shaped dent in the front bumper - plank of the week award!
If anyone asks simply shrug your shoulders and blame your wife.
A comment such as " we all love women but God made a mistake when he allowed them to drive" should be enough to deflect blame. ;D
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Nice example, on the cusp of the changeover so has the flat faced fat five spokes which suit the Elite well I think. Hopefully you'll get back any investment in the long term. Such a comfortable barge for wafting about, I get plenty of admiring comments for mine even when it hasn't been cleaned for a while. :y
Those alloys do really suit the barge, makes a difference to the handling as well, feels a lot more taught on the road, though I don't know if the suspension is stiffer maybe, didn't think it would be on an executive type model? Any pics of your own one be nice to see.
Managed to get the scuttle cover from a guy in the borders, he's got the full car & other stuff as well should I need it, and plenty of cavy spares, as well as a full cavy lying there, so will be visiting him again for a haul in the New Year.
Noticed a couple of other things including the rear indicators look very white, so I'm guessing will need new "orange" bulbs soon.
O/S Track control arm has a bit of play as well as the link pin rubber boot hanging off, suspected this was gone as I could hear it clunking when going over rough surfaces. The N/S front bearing is also making a speed-related clicking noise when I spin it, which I'm suspecting is the bearing because it's noisy when I drive it. The noise is more apparent when you're going slower and coming to stop you can hear the drone of the bearing turn into the clicking sound just before you stop.
Need to remove the caliper and stuff to make sure its not any noise coming from that, as there is otherwise no play in the bearing.
I also managed to reverse the towbar into the front of my 2.6 CD and make a nice ball shaped dent in the front bumper - plank of the week award!
If anyone asks simply shrug your shoulders and blame your wife.
A comment such as " we all love women but God made a mistake when he allowed them to drive" should be enough to deflect blame. ;D
:y Always good to have the excuses ready!
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That's the NSF wheen bearing done, very easy job, except of course tightening to 320NM? My torque bar only goes to 200, so I waited until my elbow clicked and took that as the correct torque!
While that was off I took of the little dust shield and gave it scrape to get the flakes of rust off of it, and to satisfy myself the little torx would loosen tip, give the torx head a medium bash with the head of a hammer then hammer the torx socket in it, first action flattens the head in a bit so the socket fits snug, also loosens the rust and breaks any seized up bolts. No point doing it up or painting it as it's porous on some of the edges so will need new ones eventually.
Next job was remove the OS track arm. I didn't even try to loosen the old one's adjusters as they are always mega seized, just replaced the whole thing as the outside track rod had play, and the back one felt a bit loose too. Few strikes of a 1 pound mallet got the outside one to pop but the inner one was a complete bar steward, so I got out the ball joint splitter and let that take the strain.
Done the measure up thingy with the old arm then put the new one on (After slabbering the new threads with copper slip) and torque'd up to 74 Lb Ft on outside joint, I'd seen another suggestion, from Haynes that the inner one is 25 Lb Ft but that's way too loose for my liking, so done it to about 50 Lb Ft.
Still got the NS track arm to replace, plus remove both wishbones and replace the longitudinal bushes with polys, and the other ones with new GM bushes, then get tracking done. Probably should go for new ball joints this time, never done on my CD so probably worthwhile since I'm in there with everything off (the car, not me!)
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The N/S track arm is now replaced. I've also started cleaning the headlights with wet & dry working up the grits 800 > 3000. Decided to take the rear wheels off and check everything around and underneath there, and give all the nuts and bolts a scoosh of WD. While I had the wheels off I squeezed the rear caliper pistons bak to check they weren't seizing.
When I had the rears off I released the handbrake and put in N so I could rotate rear wheels. Just a note when you remove the block of wood from the front wheel make sure you're back in P and handbrake on! My driveway has a slight incline near the end of it, so my other omega was sitting down this incline, and the elite at the top of it, just on the edge.
When I pulled the block out I forgot about handbrake so as I was kicking it back with my feet it was getting caught again every time, not realising the car was inching forward slowly onto the block again. Once I'd completely removed the block, I'd walked away to do something else, and the elite rolled forward but luckily I had my open toolbox about a foot in front of it, which stopped it about 2 inches from the bumper of the CD!
Even if it had hit the CD there wasn't any serious distance (4 feet maybe) to gather speed and the incline is mild (probably a few percent) so would probably have just bounced off it.
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Just started stripping out all the stuff to do the following jobs:
Engine:
Timing belt
Rocker gaskets
Oil cooler
underneath:
poly bushes for the arms
Ball joints (Refurbish arms basically)
Decided to give the oil cooler job a go, never done it before so wanted to see how it all came apart and give it the once over while there. Utter pain in the pants getting those oil cooler > block pipes off, I managed to get it with normal 19mm spanner, but only just, very limited movement and had to remove the crank sensor for space.
The big nut. closest to front, that holds the plate onto the oil cooler also stripped thread on the way off and had to grab it with a pair of parrot grips to yank it off. looking at the cooler it looks clean enough on the outside but I can only see glimmers of light through it. I've got 2 new ones so may as well replace it while it's out. The sealant on the plate was looking a bit disheveled so get that sealed up properly again.
Stripped all the belt out as well and locked up the engine ready for the new belt. Funny that the tensioner had 2 big indents right round it, couldn't see where that came from. The tensioners all feel nice and tight as does the water pump, but you can see the dust from the belt all over the back casing.
Still to strip the arms out to replace the bushes with polys and the ball joints. I'm going to find perfect bushes and ball joints I just know it!
Plenty to keep me going!