106
Omega General Help / Re: Water "Adams ale"
« on: 28 August 2013, 23:21:52 »I personally just use tap water with my 50/50 mix.
You shouldn't do that in Northampton your water is hard, well hard. Check the instructions on your antifreeze.
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You shouldn't do that in Northampton your water is hard, well hard. Check the instructions on your antifreeze.
107
Omega General Help / Re: runaway
« on: 28 August 2013, 02:32:37 »
0335 is Crankshaft Position sensor "A" circuit malfunction
108
Omega General Help / Re: Water "Adams ale"
« on: 28 August 2013, 02:03:40 »
Best is distilled water, de-ionised is close as far as I can tell (and not bad for the system as an old myth says). Eurocar parts were doing 5l for £1.94 inc delivery last month! Boiled water is not much like distilled but better than tap. Unless you boil it dry and condense the steam in which case it is distilled water. Soft tap water is much better than hard, I think Welsh water is soft. Your 3.2 will take almost exactly 5l of antifreeze and 5l of water, well my 2.6 did anyway. Officially 9.7l for the manual, 9.5l for auto.
109
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty Arches - Repair
« on: 28 August 2013, 01:57:43 »
TYhis got me thinking about all the different ways of dealing with rust. I think there are 6 basic types but do add any:
1) remove all rusted metal and replace. Not stricly speaking a treatment, just plain removal.
2) apply a rust converter - this chemically converts the rust to black haematite or similar which is inert and can be painted. Some suppliers are Vactan, Hammerite and Fertan. Jenolite also do one not to be confused with their rust remover.
3) apply a rust remover this chemically removes the rust (actually converts but makes it drop off). There seem to be two basic types, old navy jelly like jenolite which is toxic (phosphoric acid based?) and the newer slower safe types like Hammerite do and I think Deox is. I've found the old ones better but both work well if you can degrease and dip the rusty item.
4) apply a rust primer suitable for application directly to rust. Generally these are zinc based paints, International do a good one.
5) apply a wax or oil treatment to the rust, eg Waxoyl or Dinitrol. I don't think this chemically treats the rust, I think it works just by denying water and oxygen to the rust but I could be wrong.
6) sell for scrap (rust weighs in at more than steel
).
All apart from 6 have their advantages and disadvantages. I would use 2 where I cannot guarantee removing all the rust followed up by 4. I might use 3 where I can remove the item and dip it, followed by 4. 5 is ideal for spraying into inaccessible places as mentioned. 1 may often cost more than the value of the car as mentioned.
1) remove all rusted metal and replace. Not stricly speaking a treatment, just plain removal.
2) apply a rust converter - this chemically converts the rust to black haematite or similar which is inert and can be painted. Some suppliers are Vactan, Hammerite and Fertan. Jenolite also do one not to be confused with their rust remover.
3) apply a rust remover this chemically removes the rust (actually converts but makes it drop off). There seem to be two basic types, old navy jelly like jenolite which is toxic (phosphoric acid based?) and the newer slower safe types like Hammerite do and I think Deox is. I've found the old ones better but both work well if you can degrease and dip the rusty item.
4) apply a rust primer suitable for application directly to rust. Generally these are zinc based paints, International do a good one.
5) apply a wax or oil treatment to the rust, eg Waxoyl or Dinitrol. I don't think this chemically treats the rust, I think it works just by denying water and oxygen to the rust but I could be wrong.
6) sell for scrap (rust weighs in at more than steel
).All apart from 6 have their advantages and disadvantages. I would use 2 where I cannot guarantee removing all the rust followed up by 4. I might use 3 where I can remove the item and dip it, followed by 4. 5 is ideal for spraying into inaccessible places as mentioned. 1 may often cost more than the value of the car as mentioned.
110
Omega General Help / Re: Coolant flush and change.
« on: 27 August 2013, 11:54:09 »
If there's oil in there is should show, it either floats on the surface or emulsifies. Personally I wouldn't add anything to my cooling system except antifreeze and soft water unless I absolutely had to. I'd definitely be wary of detergents. I suspect they will do more damage than a small amount of oil. In fact some additives such as water pump conditioners contain oil.
I haven't looked it up but I would do before adding bottled water, I think some types can be hard. Cheaper and better to use distilled or de-ionized water.
I do flush the engine with it running and a cold water hose pipe going in the expansion tank with the rad plug open, I know others say don't do that. TBH I've never had any problems - after all on a cold day the cold radiator water will be released to the hot engine when the thermostat opens in the course of normal running. However if you're extra cautious don't I suppose. The thermostat will open based on the engine block water temp even if the rad water temp is cold (otherwise it would never open!)
I haven't looked it up but I would do before adding bottled water, I think some types can be hard. Cheaper and better to use distilled or de-ionized water.
I do flush the engine with it running and a cold water hose pipe going in the expansion tank with the rad plug open, I know others say don't do that. TBH I've never had any problems - after all on a cold day the cold radiator water will be released to the hot engine when the thermostat opens in the course of normal running. However if you're extra cautious don't I suppose. The thermostat will open based on the engine block water temp even if the rad water temp is cold (otherwise it would never open!)
111
Omega General Help / Re: Hellfrauds antifreeze
« on: 27 August 2013, 11:27:14 »
Thanks. Just for entertainment here is what eurocarparts say:
"Antifreeze comes in many colors, which are just the preference of the manufacturer. However, when checking the quality, no matter what the color, you need to look that the liquid is clear and not brown with bits of rust floating. This is a sign that the system may need flushing and antifreeze replacing."
I wonder who writes that stuff.
"Antifreeze comes in many colors, which are just the preference of the manufacturer. However, when checking the quality, no matter what the color, you need to look that the liquid is clear and not brown with bits of rust floating. This is a sign that the system may need flushing and antifreeze replacing."
I wonder who writes that stuff.
112
Omega General Help / Re: Rusty Arches - Repair
« on: 27 August 2013, 00:51:44 »
I'm just doing mine now. Open all doors and check the sill tops and especially between the sill and rear wing panel arch.
With a small chisel I chipped off the surface rust and a very small area beyond (rust hasn't spread to the visible vertical wing panel yet), then use a wire brush or flap sanding disk and Dremel to remove as much as you can of the remaining rust, degrease with meths, remove any salt with sugar soap solution, dry thoroughly then treat with a water based penetrating rust converter like Vactan, then a few thick coats of anti rust primer like International do. Car paint on top.
If you can get the converter to penetrate all the rust, i.e. if you remove all but the very thin surface and solid rust, and if you put anti rust primer over the set converter (despite the converter claims of self priming) then it should outlast the car. That's what I've found anyway.
If you fail to convert any of the rust eg if it is in a deep layer, or is greasy and repels the water based converter, or any salt is left in the rust, or you fail to prime the converted rust, then it will come back. This gives the converters a bad name which I don't think they deserve.
With a small chisel I chipped off the surface rust and a very small area beyond (rust hasn't spread to the visible vertical wing panel yet), then use a wire brush or flap sanding disk and Dremel to remove as much as you can of the remaining rust, degrease with meths, remove any salt with sugar soap solution, dry thoroughly then treat with a water based penetrating rust converter like Vactan, then a few thick coats of anti rust primer like International do. Car paint on top.
If you can get the converter to penetrate all the rust, i.e. if you remove all but the very thin surface and solid rust, and if you put anti rust primer over the set converter (despite the converter claims of self priming) then it should outlast the car. That's what I've found anyway.
If you fail to convert any of the rust eg if it is in a deep layer, or is greasy and repels the water based converter, or any salt is left in the rust, or you fail to prime the converted rust, then it will come back. This gives the converters a bad name which I don't think they deserve.
113
Omega General Help / Re: Tyre wear
« on: 27 August 2013, 00:22:39 »I get around 20-24k from fronts, about 10-12k from rears. With a properly set up chassis.I'm surprised at that, I thought the general rule of thumb was FWD cars: fronts last half as long, RWD: both last about the same. I suppose it very much depends how you drive but braking always wears the fronts a lot more than the rear and straight line traction wears the driven wheels a lot more.
115
Omega General Help / Re: Hellfrauds antifreeze
« on: 26 August 2013, 23:24:21 »
Anyone know if it's a good or bad idea to use the red in an old engine (1950s)?
116
General Discussion Area / Re: Syria
« on: 26 August 2013, 23:09:25 »
Wow Godwin's Law kicked in very early on this thread (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Godwin%27s_law) 
If Assad was stupid enough to launch a relatively small chemical weapons attack the very day the UN inspectors arrived in the suburbs of the capital city they are staying in he would have been toppled years ago. Unfortunately a lot in the west are gullible enough to believe it though
.
Obama was stupid (or reckless, or devious, depending on your point of view) to say if the red line of chemical weapons use was crossed he would invade. That was an open incitement for the rebels (insurgents) to obtain or make sarin (it's not that difficult, remember the Tokyo underground attack (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarin_gas_attack_on_the_Tokyo_subway?).
The very obvious softening up of the West's electorate for military action which some here have noticed (and some not) is I think not for invasion but for a surgical strike to take out Assad and his top supporters. The mysterious paper bomb 18/7/12 that killed the Syrian defence secretary, the intelligence chief, plus Assad's brother in law, and wounded many including the interior minister was clearly an attempt to do the same. This time, if the West have successfully wound up public opinion enough, they can just do it openly with a drone. Or maybe a laser 
.
If Assad was stupid enough to launch a relatively small chemical weapons attack the very day the UN inspectors arrived in the suburbs of the capital city they are staying in he would have been toppled years ago. Unfortunately a lot in the west are gullible enough to believe it though
.Obama was stupid (or reckless, or devious, depending on your point of view) to say if the red line of chemical weapons use was crossed he would invade. That was an open incitement for the rebels (insurgents) to obtain or make sarin (it's not that difficult, remember the Tokyo underground attack (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sarin_gas_attack_on_the_Tokyo_subway?).
The very obvious softening up of the West's electorate for military action which some here have noticed (and some not
) is I think not for invasion but for a surgical strike to take out Assad and his top supporters. The mysterious paper bomb 18/7/12 that killed the Syrian defence secretary, the intelligence chief, plus Assad's brother in law, and wounded many including the interior minister was clearly an attempt to do the same. This time, if the West have successfully wound up public opinion enough, they can just do it openly with a drone. Or maybe a laser .117
General Discussion Area / Re: All made using hand tools - The Roentgens' Berlin Secretary Cabinet
« on: 23 August 2013, 18:30:48 »
No cup holder!
118
General Discussion Area / Re: make sure you get your email address correct
« on: 23 August 2013, 02:51:51 »
sounds like he might have his 'reply to' address configured wrongly.
119
General Car Chat / Re: 0-60 Omega's
« on: 23 August 2013, 02:49:51 »
Do you really need these expensive devices to measure 0-60? I would think use a gps to find out exactly what 60 is on your speedo (if OCD use two or more GPS's) and a good stopwatch.
You could probably even work it out with just a stopwatch, a tape measure and some calculus. Though I think you'd need to make quite a few runs.
You could probably even work it out with just a stopwatch, a tape measure and some calculus. Though I think you'd need to make quite a few runs
.
120
Omega General Help / Re: lost key transponder chip
« on: 22 August 2013, 00:00:36 »Is two smilies not an orgasm for you? Sorry thought it was.
No need to toss yourself off dbug its only the spare
Don't think that's called for - only confirming that for once your thinkng was right
