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[Doctor Gollum]

You have potentially forced the vvt mechanisms. Hence the double fault codes...

Camshafts are rotated with a spanner on the machined flats on the camshafts. Readily accessible with the cam cover off.

What does Haynes suggest for resetting/renewing the vvt gubbins as that's what you're doing next.

Belt will be out because the cams are now effectively out.

[terry paget]

Terry, looking at your latest pics, it looks like the crank might be a tooth, or half a tooth out? I would have thought the timing mark should be bang on the 6-o'clock arrow, rather than 6.15ish as in your pic.

I'd be tempted to strip it down, rotate to TDC and put a steel rule across the cam sprockets to make sure the timing is bang on. After that I'd back off the torx bolt you used to rotate the cam and re-torque it.

Rather than using that to rotate the cam, I'd put an Allen key in the hole that's at 11o-clock on the left hand cam in your picture, and a screwdriver in the slot. Bracing one against the other should let you rotate the cam.

I know it's a right pain in the 'arris, but, barring some freak electronic failure, it has to be an issue with a component you've touched in the last 48hrs so I rather think retracing your steps is the only way to be sure.

As to why it's only shown up on the second start, that's got me beat!

Thanks again for your thoughts, Jimmy. Timing is fine. Parallax distorts the pictures. It ran well 12 miles yesterday without any problems. I realised overnight that I had not greased the auxiliary pulley bearing, so did it this afternoon. I backed the car out of the garage, all working nornally, stopped the engine, restarted the engine and the EML came on, with codes suggesting trouble with the variable valve timing. It's a mystery.

[Doctor Gollum]

Terry, looking at your latest pics, it looks like the crank might be a tooth, or half a tooth out? I would have thought the timing mark should be bang on the 6-o'clock arrow, rather than 6.15ish as in your pic.

I'd be tempted to strip it down, rotate to TDC and put a steel rule across the cam sprockets to make sure the timing is bang on. After that I'd back off the torx bolt you used to rotate the cam and re-torque it.

Rather than using that to rotate the cam, I'd put an Allen key in the hole that's at 11o-clock on the left hand cam in your picture, and a screwdriver in the slot. Bracing one against the other should let you rotate the cam.

I know it's a right pain in the 'arris, but, barring some freak electronic failure, it has to be an issue with a component you've touched in the last 48hrs so I rather think retracing your steps is the only way to be sure.

As to why it's only shown up on the second start, that's got me beat!

Thanks again for your thoughts, Jimmy. Timing is fine. Parallax distorts the pictures. It ran well 12 miles yesterday without any problems. I realised overnight that I had not greased the auxiliary pulley bearing, so did it this afternoon. I backed the car out of the garage, all working nornally, stopped the engine, restarted the engine and the EML came on, with codes suggesting trouble with the variable valve timing. It's a mystery.

It shouldn't be given your confession re how you adjusted the cams

[Doctor Gollum]

Have a watch of this...

https://youtu.be/5QEZ8YGgQ_4

[terry paget]

Have a watch of this...

https://youtu.be/5QEZ8YGgQ_4

Thanks, Doc. I've had a watch of that. I'm a little wiser. I'm still not sure what sin I have committed. You infer I should not have rotated the camshafts slightly with the belt off to align the setting marks precisely using the internal Torx sockets, right? That is how I have fitted dozens of belts on Omegas. If it was unwise on VVT engines I wish Haynes had mentioned it.

[Andy B]

....
 That is how I have fitted dozens of belts on Omegas.  .....

but Omega's cam belts are directly driven by the belt

[dave the builder]

Have a watch of this...

https://youtu.be/5QEZ8YGgQ_4

Thanks, Doc. I've had a watch of that. I'm a little wiser. I'm still not sure what sin I have committed. You infer I should not have rotated the camshafts slightly with the belt off to align the setting marks precisely using the internal Torx sockets, right? That is how I have fitted dozens of belts on Omegas. If it was unwise on VVT engines I wish Haynes had mentioned it.

the cam marks don't line up precisely
no rotating anything with the belt off because it's all locked with the locking kit BEFORE the belt is removed

and a test drive won't actuate VVT unless you reach certain engine and road speeds

not helpful I know , more of a moan ,sorry

could still be worth checking the VVT screens and actuating the VVT solenoids with output test

I have to go back out ,I will give it some thought 

[terry paget]

More data. With front of the car still on axle stands and all the covers off, I put back the air cleaner and connected the battery.

I started the engine, no EML, engine ran fine. Stopped engine, did it again, no EML. Did it a third time, EML came on, P0011-66, P0014-66; with engine still running I cancelled the codes, EML went out, no codes displayed, engine still ran.

This is consistent. Every 3 or 4 engine starts the EML comes on, but can be cancelled and stays out.

I don't understand it, but it eliminates certains theories. I unplugged and replugged the cables to the VVT sensors, no change.

[Doctor Gollum]

Basically the vvt gubbins is out of kilter and need resetting.

If this does not work, then they will need to be replaced.

Otherwise you will continue to get the fault codes mentioned and will potentially cause significant damage.

The codes are present because the cams are out of their expected positions and not for any other reason to 

[terry paget]

Have a watch of this...

https://youtu.be/5QEZ8YGgQ_4

Thanks, Doc. I've had a watch of that. I'm a little wiser. I'm still not sure what sin I have committed. You infer I should not have rotated the camshafts slightly with the belt off to align the setting marks precisely using the internal Torx sockets, right? That is how I have fitted dozens of belts on Omegas. If it was unwise on VVT engines I wish Haynes had mentioned it.

the cam marks don't line up precisely
no rotating anything with the belt off because it's all locked with the locking kit BEFORE the belt is removed

and a test drive won't actuate VVT unless you reach certain engine and road speeds

not helpful I know , more of a moan ,sorry

could still be worth checking the VVT screens and actuating the VVT solenoids with output test

I have to go back out ,I will give it some thought

They didn't before, that's why I tried to improve matter. I have bought many a car with the belt out a cog or even two, and they all ran all right. There is a tool for the V6 Omega which sets the cams precisely, none for the 4 cylinder or the Astra.

[Doctor Gollum]

Because the vvt gubbins is, by its very nature, variable...

[terry paget]

To clarify, the first picture of the cams, timed 9.41, was the cams as I found them, old belt. The second picture, timed 14.31, was the cams as I reset them. Maybe I should have locked them where they were in order not to confuse the ECU, but I didn't.

[Doctor Gollum]

Not necessarily, but removing the cam cover and using the flats on the camshafts would have been better than trying to force them round with a torx bit...

[terry paget]

Maybe the timing is out. I set the crank with the pulley off. With the pulley on it is more precise.


Might this error be enough to upset the ECU?

[Doctor Gollum]

Again...

The ecu codes are because both cams are out of position because you forced the vvt.

You need to reset both vvt units AND retime the engine.

If this does not clear the codes, then you need to replace the vvt units.

Simples