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[grifter]

I've not got an issue with this but wanted to check how you can do a temp short to keep the cooling fan on, i.e. in case a relay or sensor went duff and you needed to bridge the fan(s) on until you get it repaired.

Looked at the diagram to see what connectors it might be to short, would it be two of the connectors on the relay?

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=133825.0

Thanks

G

[Nick W]

It's easier at the radiator switch: a piece of wire between the terminals instead of the switch will do it. But that will leave the fan on ALL the time, so actually  fixing the problem is recommended.

[grifter]

It's easier at the radiator switch: a piece of wire between the terminals instead of the switch will do it. But that will leave the fan on ALL the time, so actually  fixing the problem is recommended.

It's just in case I ever get stuck and the fan switch was goosed. Is it the top coolant switch plug you bridge?

[Doctor Gollum]

It's easier at the radiator switch: a piece of wire between the terminals instead of the switch will do it. But that will leave the fan on ALL the time, so actually  fixing the problem is recommended.

It's just in case I ever get stuck and the fan switch was goosed. Is it the top coolant switch plug you bridge?

What on earth are you trying to achieve?

There are two thermoswitches, an ECU override via the ECU coolant temp sensor and an additional feed from the Climate panel.

If you're that worried about a thermoswitch failure, then replace both.

Other preventative maintenance would be to ensure that all three fans spin freely and quietly... Check them with the engine stone cold though as I don't want to be responsible for you losing a finger. Or eight

If they're seized, the front ones are radiator/oil cooler/condenser out to remove. The plugs are easily accessed to run a test feed to the motors though

[Nick W]

It's easier at the radiator switch: a piece of wire between the terminals instead of the switch will do it. But that will leave the fan on ALL the time, so actually  fixing the problem is recommended.

It's just in case I ever get stuck and the fan switch was goosed. Is it the top coolant switch plug you bridge?

Well I wouldn't because they're extremely reliable, and cheap to replace on the rare occasions they do fail. I think your time would be better spent on inspecting the rest of the cooling system, and replacing any suspect parts like the radiator and hoses(particularly the one from the transfer tube to the radiator).


Nor do I subscribe to the thinking that fits a manual switch for peace of mind. I've never seen a factory electric fan installation with one, and don't expect to.

[Doctor Gollum]

To add to that,

The standard Omega 3 fan set up, with it's original relays, thermoswitches and wiring is more than good enough to keep a supercharged LS1 cold, so there's not much you can do to cook a 3.2 Omega without seriously abusing and neglecting it

[grifter]

It's easier at the radiator switch: a piece of wire between the terminals instead of the switch will do it. But that will leave the fan on ALL the time, so actually  fixing the problem is recommended.

It's just in case I ever get stuck and the fan switch was goosed. Is it the top coolant switch plug you bridge?

What on earth are you trying to achieve?

There are two thermoswitches, an ECU override via the ECU coolant temp sensor and an additional feed from the Climate panel.

If you're that worried about a thermoswitch failure, then replace both.

Other preventative maintenance would be to ensure that all three fans spin freely and quietly... Check them with the engine stone cold though as I don't want to be responsible for you losing a finger. Or eight

If they're seized, the front ones are radiator/oil cooler/condenser out to remove. The plugs are easily accessed to run a test feed to the motors though

I've sparked your curiousity  ok well got a few road trips planned later this summer and trying to go round everything that will/could/might/possibly give me Gyp!

Also just a good bit of preventative maintenance combined into the mix. So I'm being uber-OCD about the cooling system especially!

The reason I was asking about the fan switch is I had to do this once on my cavy, luckily I knew how to bridge it and keep the engine cool on a +25oC day!

Everything that's been replaced/done in last few months:

Rad
Air-con condenser and full check and recharge
New water pump
New TB
New heater water valve
Full rocker gasket replacement
Stat
Replacement of both tie rods and full hunter wheel alignment (Found a decent garage in Glasgow who do it properly)
New rear springs (One was broken)
OIl change

What did I miss? 

[grifter]

To add to that,

The standard Omega 3 fan set up, with it's original relays, thermoswitches and wiring is more than good enough to keep a supercharged LS1 cold, so there's not much you can do to cook a 3.2 Omega without seriously abusing and neglecting it

I'm para about overheating, Actually it's never stranded me, but I've had a few times I've had to drive with heating on full pelt on a hot day, just to get where I'm going.

[Nick W]

What did I miss? 

Auxiliary belt and tensioner pulley. Especially the pulley, which is the weakest part of the cooling system
Heater matrix, although they tend to silt up rather than leak.
Heater Bypass Valve(HBV). Common failure, although I'd probably keep one that isn't actually leaking
Rear diff mounts. No longer available, so they have to be rebuilt
Carefully check the engine end of the transfer tube to radiator hose; it gets soaked with oil from the leaking cam cover which does the rubber no good. If it's at all spongy, replace ASAP. Vauxhall only part.
Oil pressure sender switch. One of the common oil leaks, and oil can wick up the wiring which isn't good....
Coolant expansion tank. The plastic degrades over time and can fail. As does the level sender, which is an unserviceable part of the tank.
Plug leads and coil pack(s)

[Doctor Gollum]

To add to that,

The standard Omega 3 fan set up, with it's original relays, thermoswitches and wiring is more than good enough to keep a supercharged LS1 cold, so there's not much you can do to cook a 3.2 Omega without seriously abusing and neglecting it

I'm para about overheating, Actually it's never stranded me, but I've had a few times I've had to drive with heating on full pelt on a hot day, just to get where I'm going.

How? By driving everywhere at WOT? In Second? Towing a trailer? With the hand brake on?

My 3.2 didn't overheat once in 180,000 miles, even sat idling for hours at a time in full summer sun. The 3.2 cooling system is identical to the 2.6.

What did I miss 

ECU and gauge temperature sensors.

Gearbox oil and filter change.

Not replacing the thermoswitches whilst the radiator was out.

Testing the fans to ensure that they're working correctly.

Replace the header cap (and bottle if it's excessively discoloured... increased likelihood of age cracking around the neck and therefore evaporation leaks).

Always keep the aircon on. If you see ECO on the climate display, slap yourself, press the ECO button once and slap yourself again. ECO not only switches off the clutch on the compressor, it also turns off the front fans unless the coolant gets really hot.

Put that another way, as long as the aircon is on , both front fans will run at full speed, the rear fan still switches according to coolant temp.

Make sure the brakes aren't binding, especially the hand brake. Check it, adjust it, re check it.

Driving lessons. It shouldn't be getting that hot if you drive it normally. A 2.6 isn't a 3.2 so stop driving it like it is.*

*This is slightly tongue in cheek, but if you're regularly in the exceeding the upper mark on the temp gauge, then you are either abusing the car or there is something wrong with it/gauge sensor is faulty, making the gauge over read.

[grifter]

To add to that,

The standard Omega 3 fan set up, with it's original relays, thermoswitches and wiring is more than good enough to keep a supercharged LS1 cold, so there's not much you can do to cook a 3.2 Omega without seriously abusing and neglecting it

I'm para about overheating, Actually it's never stranded me, but I've had a few times I've had to drive with heating on full pelt on a hot day, just to get where I'm going.

How? By driving everywhere at WOT? In Second? Towing a trailer? With the hand brake on?

My 3.2 didn't overheat once in 180,000 miles, even sat idling for hours at a time in full summer sun. The 3.2 cooling system is identical to the 2.6.

What did I miss 

ECU and gauge temperature sensors.

Gearbox oil and filter change.

Done that

Not replacing the thermoswitches whilst the radiator was out.

Yeah good shout, shoulda!

Testing the fans to ensure that they're working correctly.

Replace the header cap (and bottle if it's excessively discoloured... increased likelihood of age cracking around the neck and therefore evaporation leaks).

Put a new bottle in it, sensor was fubar,  forgot to mention that one, no new seal on the cap though

Always keep the aircon on. If you see ECO on the climate display, slap yourself, press the ECO button once and slap yourself again. ECO not only switches off the clutch on the compressor, it also turns off the front fans unless the coolant gets really hot.

Put that another way, as long as the aircon is on , both front fans will run at full speed, the rear fan still switches according to coolant temp.

Probably have the a/c on most of the time, sorry all of the time!

Make sure the brakes aren't binding, especially the hand brake. Check it, adjust it, re check it.

Done the front (March) and rear discs and pads at rear last year, hbrake a bit up in the air so will need adjust.

Driving lessons. It shouldn't be getting that hot if you drive it normally. A 2.6 isn't a 3.2 so stop driving it like it is.*

*This is slightly tongue in cheek, but if you're regularly in the exceeding the upper mark on the temp gauge, then you are either abusing the car or there is something wrong with it/gauge sensor is faulty, making the gauge over read.

No it just goes to 90 eventually, if idling, fan comes on goes back down to 85, just me being a natural worrier! Temp sits just above 80 on mway

[grifter]

What did I miss? 

Auxiliary belt and tensioner pulley. Especially the pulley, which is the weakest part of the cooling system
Ordered a new one, need to fit
Heater matrix, although they tend to silt up rather than leak.
Not checked this directly, but judging by the colour of the original coolant it looked to be well maintained so not expecting too much silting in thr matrix.
Heater Bypass Valve(HBV). Common failure, although I'd probably keep one that isn't actually leaking
Done
Rear diff mounts. No longer available, so they have to be rebuilt
Carefully check the engine end of the transfer tube to radiator hose; it gets soaked with oil from the leaking cam cover which does the rubber no good. If it's at all spongy, replace ASAP. Vauxhall only part.
Good point, I seen that with a slight il line on it, have kept regular gasket changes etc. but will check hose.
Oil pressure sender switch. One of the common oil leaks, and oil can wick up the wiring which isn't good....
Everything seemed ok last time I checked round there.
Coolant expansion tank. The plastic degrades over time and can fail. As does the level sender, which is an unserviceable part of the tank.
Changed that recently as sensor was gone
Plug leads and coil pack(s)
Not 2.5, 2.6, but changed one of the coil pack 2 years ago as was cracking and rusting underneath.

[Doctor Gollum]

The gauge isn't that accurate.

If the overheat light doesn't come on and it isn't routinely going over 100 then you should find something more interesting to worry about