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[GrahamK]

I need to remove a Omega 2.6 saloon rear hub to have it machined or possibly replace it. I have most of it apart, but i am a little unclear about how to get it out.
I have searched the forum, but i am not clear about how to go about it. I tried to hammer it out from the rear with a soft faced mallet, but it's not moving.
First, I understand that the Driveshaft flange pulls off. could I span the flange with a bar, bolt it too the flange and use a centre bolt to push against the rear of the hub. (The main hub nut is off) Will this be enough to pull it and not risk cracking the flange? I also have a 3 arm puller that could be used to similar effect.
Could this action alone be enough to ping out the hub?
re the hub, I've seen the tool on my searches that bolts into the backplate holes and pushes the Hub out. Obviously I need to pull the Drive flange before this can work.
Finally, I have no rear bearing problems at the moment but I understand when the hub pops out it could end up with part of the bearing stuck on it. Is a new bearing inevitable then?
If it comes out without the bearing, would it be possible to re-use the existing bearing.
I have another post in this section, I am looking for a rear hub, if you have one for sale?
Thanks.
Graham.

[LC0112G]

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=130619.0

It's a bitch of a job. You need to pull/push/press the hubshaft out of the bearing, then release the large circlip that keeps the bearing in, and then pull/push/press the bearing out.

You will wreck the bearing (if it isn't already) and the outer race of the bearing WILL stay attached to the hubshaft as you pull it out, and so you'll have to pull/press that off too.

Hatefull job, even with the right tools. 

[GrahamK]

Thanks LC, I hadn't found that article. I guess I better order a wheel bearing then!

Graham.

[Nick W]

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=130619.0

It's a bitch of a job. You need to pull/push/press the hubshaft out of the bearing, then release the large circlip that keeps the bearing in, and then pull/push/press the bearing out.

You will wreck the bearing (if it isn't already) and the outer race of the bearing WILL stay attached to the hubshaft as you pull it out, and so you'll have to pull/press that off too.

Hatefull job, even with the right tools.

It's not that bad. Putting the hub nut on the inside makes tightening it to 300Nm a nuisance and adds to the parts count. Ford's implementation of the same requirements is much simpler.


The drive flange isn't particularly tight, but needs some help to get it moving; a three leg puller or bit of strap bolted across with a nut welded in the middle will work.


The hub shouldn't be a particularly tight fit, and if you can manage a direct bolt with a big hammer it might come out. There's to much chance of damaging stuff for me, especially considering the awkward access so I made an extractor that bolts to the trailing arm and pushes the hub out. As mentioned, the bearing will separate however you do this. Heating up the race can make it easier to move, but I find cutting an slot across it with an angle grinder then splitting it with a chisel is quicker, easier and guaranteed to work for the effort.


The circlip needs large and robust pliers to remove and refit.


The bearing is easily removed and refitted using standard on-the-car bearing pullers like THIS


The bearing puller has enough tools to refit the hub, but ensure you pull it in against the inner bearing race!

[Doctor Gollum]

As you aren't swapping it due to bearing failure... You could swap in a complete trailing arm.

Only a handful of bolts. Just make sure it's a saloon one as they are different. 

If you do go down the bearing route be certain that it is a saloon on. The estate one will fit but you will never get the circlip in as the estate bearing is longer.

[GrahamK]

Response to Nick-
Just to be clear, when inserting the bearing you say pull against the inner race? Why not drive in the bearing, pulling on the outer race?
Pulling on the inner aren't you risking pushing the bearing apart? bear in mind the hub is not out yet and I haven't seen a bearing in my hand yet!
I can't see why not so am concerned I haven't got the whole picture. This may be a daft question!

Regards,

Graham

[LC0112G]

Response to Nick-
Just to be clear, when inserting the bearing you say pull against the inner race? Why not drive in the bearing, pulling on the outer race?
Pulling on the inner aren't you risking pushing the bearing apart? bear in mind the hub is not out yet and I haven't seen a bearing in my hand yet!
I can't see why not so am concerned I haven't got the whole picture. This may be a daft question!

Regards,

Graham

He's not saying that about refitting the bearing - he's saying when you try to refit the hub into the bearing.

What he means is if you try to clobber it in from the outside, you'll push the inner race out of the new bearing. In an ideal world the hub will slip into the new bearing enough so that you can get the inboard nut on, and then just wind the nut up tight whilst pulling the hub in. In reality you'll probably find the hub won't go in far enough for this to work, so you need to arrange for something to pull the hub in at the same time as pushing/retaining (from inboard) against the outer flange of the inboard race.

[GrahamK]

Thank you LC, that makes perfect sense now.

Graham.

[LC0112G]

And - if you do take the brake backing plate off, remember to put it back before fitting the axle hub. You wouldn't be the first 

[GrahamK]

yes thankyou. easily done.

I am considering that, at the moment. Apparently the backing plates are now very rare, so if I can get the splines undone on the backing plate (i have the bit, but I'm not sure if the holder will fit through the hole in the hub) If I can get it off, I'll probably give it a clean down and try and preserve it a bit.

[Nick W]

Response to Nick-
Just to be clear, when inserting the bearing you say pull against the inner race? Why not drive in the bearing, pulling on the outer race?
Pulling on the inner aren't you risking pushing the bearing apart? bear in mind the hub is not out yet and I haven't seen a bearing in my hand yet!

Here's a cross section of the bearing:




Black is the outer race, green and red are the inners, arrow is the hub going in.
The hub is a light press fit into the inners.
If you don't support the red race while you doing this, you'll push it out, rather than the hub into it. That isn't good for your new bearing.


You always support the part of the bearing that you're fitting; the outer race when putting it into the trailing arm, and the inner race when fitting the hub

I wrote that I use the bearing puller set to refit the hub, which was a mistake: what I actually do is pull the hub through the bearing using its own nut and a couple of old inner races for spacers as necessary. The split one you cut off the hub will do, as the spacers need to be loose

[Andy H]

Response to Nick-
Just to be clear, when inserting the bearing you say pull against the inner race? Why not drive in the bearing, pulling on the outer race?
Pulling on the inner aren't you risking pushing the bearing apart? bear in mind the hub is not out yet and I haven't seen a bearing in my hand yet!

Here's a cross section of the bearing:




Black is the outer race, green and red are the inners, arrow is the hub going in.
The hub is a light press fit into the inners.
If you don't support the red race while you doing this, you'll push it out, rather than the hub into it. That isn't good for your new bearing.


You always support the part of the bearing that you're fitting; the outer race when putting it into the trailing arm, and the inner race when fitting the hub

I wrote that I use the bearing puller set to refit the hub, which was a mistake: what I actually do is pull the hub through the bearing using its own nut and a couple of old inner races for spacers as necessary. The split one you cut off the hub will do, as the spacers need to be loose

The way I did it was
1. Pull the new bearing  into the swing arm using a spacer the correct size to press on the OUTER race. (Only press on the inner race if you are pulling a bearing that you have already decided to scrap as the balls are likely to indent the bearing surfaces.)
2. Pull the drive shaft through the inner bearing races using the drive flange nut. Use a spacer that will only press on the inner race otherwise you will pull the new bearing apart. Take care if you do use an old inner race as a spacer because it will be a b*rstard to get off afterwards (I chose not to)

[Doctor Gollum]

Brinelling to gave Andys' first point it's technical name.

Freezing the hub for a day or two should make it alot easier to fit. Similarly roasting the hub before fitting the new bearing will have a similar effect. 

[Nick W]

If you cut the inner race off the hub with an angle grinder, it ought to be loose enough to use as a spacer. You can use a 3 legged puller but it's a lot more work. I have one removed that way that I then bored in the lathe to be a very loose fit.


A household freezer isn't really cold enough to shrink the hub enough to get it all the way in one go, especially as the second inner race needs to be supported. A couple of spacers, the hub nut and a long ratchet do the job efficiently.


The only thing that makes this job any different to a similar style bearing in a FWD application is that the hub nut is on the inside, which requires an additional driveflange

[GrahamK]

Hi all thanks for all the info.

Bearing arrived today and I was surprised to see the pack has two Circlips. I had presumed once inserted the bearing would sit against a shoulder with a retaining circlip to hold it in.
Am I mistaken is there a circlip back and front of the bearing?
Also they really are the biggest circlips that I have seen. Any recommendations on heavy duty but reasonably inexpensive pliers to suit?

Regards,

Graham.