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[jacko]

Okay chaps here we are again

So soon after sorting running problems

Has now failed not

Co emissions max limit 0.300 actual 0.401
Chap recons can of cat cleaner should sort it
What’s your views bear in mind car has been running
Rough for a few months so could be chocked up.

Both rear brake pipes corrosion are they front to back strait or can you just replace rear
Pipes this is on 2.2 2002

And front nearside subframe mounting corroded

Nightmare

What’s your thoughts guys

[Doctor Gollum]

Decent fuel, Wynns injector cleaner and rag ten bells out of it just before the test.

Brake lines should be easy enough. If actually that bad.

Front subframe rust is subjective. Cleaning it up and underseal might be enough or could open up a hole. Also there are six mounting points, so the issue, and fix, will vary according to which one.

[Doctor Gollum]

To add, the brake lines are identical across the Omega range.

What's the EXACT wording on the Fail sheet, or give the Reg so we can read the Fail sheet in its entirety...

[jacko]

Fp02kta

[jacko]

Sorry to be thick but are you saying the brake lines arnt one pipe back to front

[addy]

On the wifes omega, it was the hard lines from the main feed to each rear caliper. I bought these, they worked great no problems with fittings etc.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283807451840?hash=item42143e0ac0:g:fDgAAOSw~Y1g6yva

[Doctor Gollum]

OK, I'll will start with the brake lines... They've been advisories for the last two tests

Depends which lines they actually mean as the Omega has rigid lines that are attached to the rear trailing arms as well as the length of the car.

The wording suggests the trailing arm pipes.

The subframe mounting rust hasn't previously been mentioned, so you MIGHT get away with a gentle scrub with a wire brush and coating with underseal and a different tester. Obviously this doesn't actually fix the problem, but could get another year or so out of it.

The emissions suggestion is a thing... A 2.0 16v I owned previously failed in a similar fashion and the fix was a £60 system clean at VX... I was selling the car and wanted it to have a fresh Mot, which was carried out during the test drive. Paying to get it sorted there and then was the decent thing to do. Cost effective? Probably not, but it solved the issue.

Brake lines might cost you a couple of hours and dome materials to sort, but no big deal.

The rust, as already alluded, is potentially a different issue...

[Nick W]

On the wifes omega, it was the hard lines from the main feed to each caliper. I bought these, they worked great no problems with fittings etc.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283807451840?hash=item42143e0ac0:g:fDgAAOSw~Y1g6yva

£37??


That's a few seconds flaring, some time bending and <£2 worth of materials per pipe.... And they are probably easier to fit if you bend them as you go.

[Doctor Gollum]

A cautionary note... A pre MoT inspection a couple of months before removes alot of the stress and last minute surprise from the actual test.

[dave the builder]

Nearside Front Subframe mounting prescribed area excessively corroded significantly reducing structural strength inner wheel arch
fail criteria explained :
5.3.6. Complete suspension system
(a) The strength or continuity of the load bearing structure within 30cm of any sub-frame, spring or suspension component mounting (a ’prescribed area’):

(i) is significantly reduced or inadequately repaired

so you need to inspect the chassis legs ,in detail , decide how much removing parts and welding is involved ,or get a quote if you are not doing the work BEFORE spending time and money on brake pipes
though you could put cataclean and STP Fuel Injector Cleaner (or similar,that's what i use ) in to get that circulating / working

[LC0112G]

Sorry to be thick but are you saying the brake lines arnt one pipe back to front

Correct. They're a solid pipe to a fixing on the rear sub frame. Then a flexi pipe from the rear subframe to the rear trailing arm. And then another solid pipe from the rear trailing arm to the brake caliper.

The failure is probably on the trailing arm to caliper pipe, which is what addy's link is pointing to. It can be a real game getting the connecting nipples undone, so you could end up needing the flexi pipes too. The OEM Vauxhall pipes are steel covered in a sort of plasticy stuff, and once the plastic is breached the pipes rust, hence the failure. The pipes in addy's link look to be either copper or cupora-nickel so won't rust. The rest of the car however…..

[jacko]

I have just noticed on the emissions test sheet at the top
With car details they put the engine capacity down as 1750
Would that make a difference to the co2 fail or pass just seems
Odd they put that when it’s 2.2

[Nick W]

A couple of minutes earlier, that hole looked like some slightly flaky underseal. I tapped it out with the small chisel you can see, but without the hammer. The actual hole was about four times bigger, and really should have had the trans cooler pipes, radiator and other stuff to repair properly. The steering box mount was barely any better.


You need to thoroughly investigate this area on both sides before doing anything else. It's a car killer.

[Nick W]

I have just noticed on the emissions test sheet at the top
With car details they put the engine capacity down as 1750
Would that make a difference to the co2 fail or pass just seems
Odd they put that when it’s 2.2

It's a percentage of the exhaust gas. So the engine capacity is irrelevant.


Clean the Air Flow Meter and throttle body, fit new plugs and air filter, run some cat cleaner and give the car a good thrashing immediately before you put it in for a retest.

[jacko]

It’s just had new plugs air filter new mass air flow meter
Throttle body clean coil pack and cam sensor