46
General Discussion Area / Re: Chester Bennington
« on: 20 July 2017, 22:23:55 »
My middle lad has just started listening to Linkin Park, Iv been listening to them since Hybrid Theory...
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47
General Discussion Area / Re: RIAT 2017 (pic heavy)
« on: 19 July 2017, 15:18:53 »
The SU-27 Always impresses me....
48
General Car Chat / Re: Mini
« on: 18 July 2017, 19:13:50 »
Enginewise, as said, that A series is bombproof, with only pure engine issues being having to constantly check the oil in the carb, and the manifold gasket seems prone to failure (easy job, even in the confines of a mini engine bay).
They do have more serious common faults: burnt exhaust valve on #3 cylinder, stretched timing chains(the 'tensioner' is a joke) although they'll run for decades like that.
Ensure that any Mini you intend to actually drive has ALL of the available engine mounts(many never had the lower O/S one to the subframe) especially the aftermarket one from the thermostat housing to the bulkhead.
I read your comment about timing chains, but i had an A Series engine in my A40, and later a Wolsley Hornet III (mini variant), with an A series engine with a Wolsley badge, but neither had chains. They had in engine push rods. Was there a version with a chain?
ALL A series engines have a chain, unless its been converted very recently to belt... so yours would have had a timing chain.... even the B series has a timing chain fitted....?
49
General Car Chat / Re: Mini
« on: 18 July 2017, 10:39:31 »
LOL
As above, but not exactly unreliable if you know how to tinker ..
The oarts described above that have been replaced are service items so not meant to last...
What was wrong with the suspension....? Theres not much that can go wrong with suspension on Mini's...
Coopers ARE very overrated, and also the most expensive to buy - because they are overrated... At the end of the day, they are just a Mini....
Dont get me wrong though. The Classic Mini - for its time - was a revolution in design... But they are uncumfortable, noisy, smelly and slow by todays more modern cars, but that the fun aspect of them....
The Mini I have at the moment is about the best Iv ever owned, its certainley the least rustiest Iv ever owned thats for sure. It will be coming off the road for a light restoration when the MoT runs out next year in March...
Sir Alec was ingenious in his design of the Mini and Morris Minor, and did a hell of a lot for the motor industry than people realise, whereas Henry Ford.... well once a Nazi always a Nazi I guess.....
As above, but not exactly unreliable if you know how to tinker ..
The oarts described above that have been replaced are service items so not meant to last...
What was wrong with the suspension....? Theres not much that can go wrong with suspension on Mini's...
Coopers ARE very overrated, and also the most expensive to buy - because they are overrated... At the end of the day, they are just a Mini....
Dont get me wrong though. The Classic Mini - for its time - was a revolution in design... But they are uncumfortable, noisy, smelly and slow by todays more modern cars, but that the fun aspect of them....
The Mini I have at the moment is about the best Iv ever owned, its certainley the least rustiest Iv ever owned thats for sure. It will be coming off the road for a light restoration when the MoT runs out next year in March...
Sir Alec was ingenious in his design of the Mini and Morris Minor, and did a hell of a lot for the motor industry than people realise, whereas Henry Ford.... well once a Nazi always a Nazi I guess.....
50
General Car Chat / Re: paint spraying cost
« on: 17 July 2017, 21:53:27 »
It cost me £250 for both front and back Irmy bumpers to be sprayed at a proffesional bodyshop near me...
51
General Car Chat / Re: Mini
« on: 16 July 2017, 21:35:05 »
Not had the pleasure of doing the speedo drive yet, but that'll be done when I take the engine out next year...
Mine needs lots of bodywork sorting...
I know it needs a floor on both sides, both sills need sorting, inner sills will possibly need replaceing too. The rear subframe has a crack in it, I can possibly get away with a repair piece to be welded in but I'll take a proper look next year... The entire front end needs replaceing too... but at the moment its got an MoT until next March so Im going to use it up until then, then take it off the road to repair it and change the colour too....
Mine needs lots of bodywork sorting...
I know it needs a floor on both sides, both sills need sorting, inner sills will possibly need replaceing too. The rear subframe has a crack in it, I can possibly get away with a repair piece to be welded in but I'll take a proper look next year... The entire front end needs replaceing too... but at the moment its got an MoT until next March so Im going to use it up until then, then take it off the road to repair it and change the colour too....
52
General Car Chat / Re: Mini
« on: 16 July 2017, 20:22:47 »
Yeah the bypass pipes are a bugger to change, it was the main reason the A+ was designed, and doesn't have the bypass hose... Its the same basic engine but better...
The Minor came after the Mini, but does use the same engine..
The A series engines are a tad woeful on acceleration, especially in standard form, but plenty of tuning kits available.
The 1.3 (1275) is around 60BHP which doesn't sound a lot, but is plenty for a Mini (power to weight ratio)...
Theres lots and lots of spares readily available for Mini's so don't worry about getting parts...
You might be well to join an online forum like The Mini Forum or TMF. Lots of knowledgable people on there, and they really know their stuff too...
The Minor came after the Mini, but does use the same engine..
The A series engines are a tad woeful on acceleration, especially in standard form, but plenty of tuning kits available.
The 1.3 (1275) is around 60BHP which doesn't sound a lot, but is plenty for a Mini (power to weight ratio)...
Theres lots and lots of spares readily available for Mini's so don't worry about getting parts...
You might be well to join an online forum like The Mini Forum or TMF. Lots of knowledgable people on there, and they really know their stuff too...
53
General Car Chat / Re: Mini
« on: 16 July 2017, 19:26:24 »
Errrrrrrm yes.... 
I own and run a 94 1.3 SPi Mayfair.
Mini's came with the factory unoptional extra of rust and oil leaks. The engines are pretty much bullet proof and will even run on 1 cylinder...
Things to watch for are - rust - rust - rust and rust..
The rear subframes tend to rot, whereas the fronts are ALWAYS covered in oil, so tend not to..
The petrol tanks are very small (£20 to fill from empty) and will last around 180 - 200 miles but all depends how you drive it... I drive mine like I stole it TBH...
All depends what you want to pay... You wont get a road legal/road ready Mini for less than £1500 these days, if you do - be prepared to work on it...
Watch for the chancers who think that they have a Cooper and will even try to tell you that its a Cooper...
Also watch for it being re-shelled too. Not hard to do but an original Cooper (Mk1, Mk2 or Mk3) will command a high price and will be expected to be original. If its been reshelled into a more modern shell, they will still try for the higher price but it aint worth anywhere near what they ask....
Any questions, drop me a PM
I own and run a 94 1.3 SPi Mayfair.
Mini's came with the factory unoptional extra of rust and oil leaks. The engines are pretty much bullet proof and will even run on 1 cylinder...
Things to watch for are - rust - rust - rust and rust..
The rear subframes tend to rot, whereas the fronts are ALWAYS covered in oil, so tend not to..
The petrol tanks are very small (£20 to fill from empty) and will last around 180 - 200 miles but all depends how you drive it... I drive mine like I stole it TBH...
All depends what you want to pay... You wont get a road legal/road ready Mini for less than £1500 these days, if you do - be prepared to work on it...
Watch for the chancers who think that they have a Cooper and will even try to tell you that its a Cooper...
Also watch for it being re-shelled too. Not hard to do but an original Cooper (Mk1, Mk2 or Mk3) will command a high price and will be expected to be original. If its been reshelled into a more modern shell, they will still try for the higher price but it aint worth anywhere near what they ask....
Any questions, drop me a PM
54
General Car Chat / Re: Project anyone?
« on: 12 July 2017, 16:08:39 »
Project Binki is a fantastic 'watch' if you have time to spare...
Iv been waiting for the latest installment for the past couple of months...
Iv been waiting for the latest installment for the past couple of months...
55
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Head unit or speakers?
« on: 10 July 2017, 09:23:02 »Quick time out as there's some 'dangle berries's knocking about...
The door card is manufactured with a plastic angle strip bonded under the top edge.
The inner skin of the door has several spring clips fitted to it.
The door card is fitted by first lowering the plastic strip into the metal clips and pushing firmly down. The various screws are then fitted securing the door card to the door.
Removal is the reverse.
Mistreatment results in the plastic strip coming away from the door card. This is what requires glueing... The plastic strip to the door card, nothing more, nothing less.
Contact adhesive is suitably suitable.
^^^^^^ This is how to sort out your doorcards....
The bottom will pull out to gain access to the speaker, but you will most likely also destroy the doorcard at the same time... Don't be afraid to remove the doorcard, its not a hard process and requires a " + " screwdriver and possibly a small lever - maybe a plastic scraper type to remove the doorcard off the door with the plastic keepers...
56
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Head unit or speakers?
« on: 09 July 2017, 11:33:51 »
More than likely the speakers have blown because of water ingress to the paper cone...
I had an Elite and completely rebuilt the sound system by removing the BOSE system and wiring loom and installing my own. I wasn't impressed with the BOSE system at all..
I installed new speakers in the front doors (mids and tweeters) and new speakers in the rear doors (2 way co-axials), had a subwoofer installed in the boot in its own box tuned to match the speaker (JL Audio 12") and mids installed in the rear shelf where the subs for the BOSE system was installed. The sub and rear deck speakers where all powered from 2 amps, 1 dedicated to the sub and 1 dedicated to the rear deck speakers...
They system was all connected to an Alpine Multi media system (D310r) which I still have. It might be a tad cumbersome with the amount of equipment connected to the "brain" but it sounds very very good and is still used in sound off competitions today...
I had an Elite and completely rebuilt the sound system by removing the BOSE system and wiring loom and installing my own. I wasn't impressed with the BOSE system at all..
I installed new speakers in the front doors (mids and tweeters) and new speakers in the rear doors (2 way co-axials), had a subwoofer installed in the boot in its own box tuned to match the speaker (JL Audio 12") and mids installed in the rear shelf where the subs for the BOSE system was installed. The sub and rear deck speakers where all powered from 2 amps, 1 dedicated to the sub and 1 dedicated to the rear deck speakers...
They system was all connected to an Alpine Multi media system (D310r) which I still have. It might be a tad cumbersome with the amount of equipment connected to the "brain" but it sounds very very good and is still used in sound off competitions today...
57
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Head unit or speakers?
« on: 07 July 2017, 14:32:15 »
You dont say what year your Omega is... that might help...
It does sound like you have speakers or wiring at fault, need to remove the doorcards to check the wiring...
You probably wont have any speakers in the rear shelf or in the rear doors, it all depends on what was installed and the model/year and spec of your Omega....
It does sound like you have speakers or wiring at fault, need to remove the doorcards to check the wiring...
You probably wont have any speakers in the rear shelf or in the rear doors, it all depends on what was installed and the model/year and spec of your Omega....
58
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: *Admin pls move to wanted* wanted 3.0 plenum Acc bracket
« on: 05 June 2017, 16:02:55 »
I always get that bit wrong, if you fit the A cams along with G cams you will gain extra torque and power which you will lose with fitting 4 G cams...
Fitting the longnose plenum you will also gain extra torque...
The clip thing, you can have for postage, the cams £25 plus postage but you take the risk of them getting broken by the courier - I can pack them as best I can but can't guarantee their safety
I'll take a look at them and see if they're still OK to use, Iv not seen them since removing them from mine last year but I know where they are...
Fitting the longnose plenum you will also gain extra torque...
The clip thing, you can have for postage, the cams £25 plus postage but you take the risk of them getting broken by the courier - I can pack them as best I can but can't guarantee their safety
I'll take a look at them and see if they're still OK to use, Iv not seen them since removing them from mine last year but I know where they are...
59
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: *Admin pls move to wanted* wanted 3.0 plenum Acc bracket
« on: 05 June 2017, 15:13:52 »
#EGR Valve that should have read...
60
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: *Admin pls move to wanted* wanted 3.0 plenum Acc bracket
« on: 05 June 2017, 15:05:13 »
The 2.5 cable WILL fit the longnose plenum _ I did it on mine without any problems...
You need to fit the G cams on the exhaust and a pair of A cams on the inlet to get back the low end grunt, coupled with the longnose plenum you will get most if not all the torque back... also fit a blanking plate to the ECV and you will get sharper response from the throttle... If you can stretch to it, get the heads ported too...
You need to fit the G cams on the exhaust and a pair of A cams on the inlet to get back the low end grunt, coupled with the longnose plenum you will get most if not all the torque back... also fit a blanking plate to the ECV and you will get sharper response from the throttle... If you can stretch to it, get the heads ported too...