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[Doctor Gollum]

That video is of limited use as you can't hear the engine.

Are you driving when you filmed that? Does the speedometer also not work?

How do you know the ABS is faulty?

Under bonnet pic/video would also be useful... There are some subtle differences between the Omega and Catera engines and it would be useful to see what we're trying to diagnose.

Fwiw,.the early Catera had both 2.5 and 3.0 engines but later ones were 3.0 only, and the last couple of years were DBW rather than cable throttled.

[Doctor Gollum]

Throttle issue is probably unrelated to abs and rpm issue.

The ABS light looks very dim, if you press the TC switch does the light come on fully?

I am thinking either the cluster isn't seated fully or it isn't grounded correctly/fully.

[tomuxzz]

Throttle issue is probably unrelated to abs and rpm issue.

The ABS light looks very dim, if you press the TC switch does the light come on fully?

I am thinking either the cluster isn't seated fully or it isn't grounded correctly/fully.

When I was driving I took out ABS fuse just for checking if it would change something. Abs and tc lights turns on almost every time and than speed does not work. And I cant read abs fault codes with diagnostic.
But the rpm is verry strange. (RPM arrow bounces by self, I'm not doing anything and driving like usual.)

[tomuxzz]

And sometimes cold engine does not start. I have to disconnect Air flow sensor. only than engine starts Warm engine everything is fine.

[Doctor Gollum]

Sooo...

You need a new MAF for a start. Again a picture of the engine bay will help a certain the correct one for your car.

A decent code reader to read the ABS ECU and see what it's complaining about, although that's potentially a wheel sensor or ECU fault.

Reseating the cluster might help with the rpm, but again, there could be an issue with the wiring that provides the signal or the cluster itself.

Any sign of moisture behind the driver's kick panel or under the carpet?

[tomuxzz]

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Sooo...

You need a new MAF for a start. Again a picture of the engine bay will help a certain the correct one for your car.

A decent code reader to read the ABS ECU and see what it's complaining about, although that's potentially a wheel sensor or ECU fault.

Reseating the cluster might help with the rpm, but again, there could be an issue with the wiring that provides the signal or the cluster itself.

Any sign of moisture behind the driver's kick panel or under the carpet?

I cant access to ABS so that's I think its faulty.

https://ibb.co/S7HQJb3
https://ibb.co/rcLvpRN
https://ibb.co/QMsTDkf

[Doctor Gollum]

Ok, that's the later car, so treat the engine as a 3.2 Omega... ie DBW with two coil packs And the MAF will be the same Bosch unit, although you should rule out vacuum leaks.

Re the ABS, that's possible, but not sure if all code readers are able to read the ABS or gearbox ECUs. The fact the the TC light isn't on suggests a different problem, iirc both lights come on when the speedometer fails if it's the ECU that's failed.

What does the TC switch do?

[tomuxzz]

Ok, that's the later car, so treat the engine as a 3.2 Omega... ie DBW with two coil packs And the MAF will be the same Bosch unit, although you should rule out vacuum leaks.

Re the ABS, that's possible, but not sure if all code readers are able to read the ABS or gearbox ECUs. The fact the the TC light isn't on suggests a different problem, iirc both lights come on when the speedometer fails if it's the ECU that's failed.

What does the TC switch do?

ABS and TC Lights comes together.
Maybe you have some ideas about RPM issue?

[Doctor Gollum]

That does suggest the abs ECU. One from a 2002+ V6 omega should suffice or get it repaired.

Have you tried reseating the cluster 

[Marks DTM Calib]

You could always look to find somebody good with a soldering iron, the failure mode on the ABS module is a fractured bond wire, in fact two, (as there are two in parallel to increase current handling), not to hard to repair but it is fiddly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpBmT0s8GnY

[tomuxzz]

You could always look to find somebody good with a soldering iron, the failure mode on the ABS module is a fractured bond wire, in fact two, (as there are two in parallel to increase current handling), not to hard to repair but it is fiddly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpBmT0s8GnY

Great thanks I will try!
And I created another video for rpm problem, Mabey it would more clear.
https://youtu.be/tgfxWicssL8?si=s0sWJNb4javBIs4Y

[Doctor Gollum]

Perhaps I should have been clearer about the video...

There's too much back round noise to hear what the engine is doing, if anything, when the rpm spikes.

No driving and no radio. Just the rpm and the engine.

And for the third or fourth time, have you tried removing and reseating the cluster?

[tomuxzz]

Perhaps I should have been clearer about the video...

There's too much back round noise to hear what the engine is doing, if anything, when the rpm spikes.

No driving and no radio. Just the rpm and the engine.

And for the third or fourth time, have you tried removing and reseating the cluster?

No I didn't tried.
I created third long video:
https://youtu.be/q-fGX4W9tDQ?si=uDNFD65pVkSo1CJN

[Doctor Gollum]

Does the rev counter do that without driving?

And what does the battery gauge do when the rev counter fluctuates?

Is Fuse 12 intact?

[tomuxzz]

Does the rev counter do that without driving?

And what does the battery gauge do when the rev counter fluctuates?

Is Fuse 12 intact?

12 Fuse is normal.
Without driving and not accelerating rev counter looks good +-