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Omega General Help / Re: Brake imbalance
« on: 10 July 2018, 18:49:05 »The ATP set for £69 is about the best value available
Currently on ebay.
Had a look just in case I need them but couldn't find on eBay.
Please play nicely. No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....
The ATP set for £69 is about the best value available
Currently on ebay.
I wouldn't fit Delphi wishbones to a scrapped Omega for banger racing
Last one I fitted lasted less than a week. Start there
I had the same experience with my beloved TD Estate years ago. Fitted Delphi, they lasted less than a year.
Surely they're just a standard M10 long bleed nipple, available anywhere?
Like THIS?
That price seems a bit expensive to me, but it was the first one in the search
On the MFL Omega I had they were all standard M8, but others have suggested that they had a mixture of M8 & M8 fine.
I wouldn't fit Delphi wishbones to a scrapped Omega for banger racing
Last one I fitted lasted less than a week. Start there
had a caliper with a problematic piston before , very odd
kept sticking , worked it in and out and all was fine for a week or so , then the same again
I'd inspected it ,no rust etc
I replaced it with a known good used item
examined the dud unit with digital micrometer
the piston had gone "out of round"
which if you think about it ,can happen because the piston does get dragged in one direction by it's pad and calipers all the time during braking, not much but enough to cause the issue
If it was my car (or one i look after) I would buy a used replacement caliper(would be cheap and easy to get hold of) i
present for mot early , if there is an in-balance issue then you have the spare ready to go on
but you can't rule out other issues like a dud ,semi jammed/part blocked solenoid in the ABS module etc
IF all the slides / pads/ discs / fluid /wheel bearing etc is ok (including manufacturing faults so compare o/s and n/s for any slight size differences etc)
and you've checked the suspension components both sides
(it could be a duff component on on the non pulling side that makes the car pull to the problem side )
also, familiarize yourself with the RBT procedure as per the video and watch them do the test if possible
not that i'm saying your garage is one of the bad ones , it does sound like you have an issue
I just don't trust garages
I'm fortunate to have an MOT tester that is strict but fair
I've missed things in the past ,he has too , we are all human
(though Mrs Builder may argue that point about me )
When I recently took mine for test the front brakes were 12% out of balance.(within limits ) but I wasn’t happy with that. I rechecked all the pads ,replaced the front discs and re bled the system.took it back and they were still the same.rellaced front hoses ,re bled and tried again. Still the same.garage said they were fine and nothing I could do would make them 100% perfect. No cars are apparently.no signs of any pull either.
I still wanted them better so I rebuilt both calipers noticing that the lower side DID have some slight rusting on the piston ( the others were finger push,this was tighter but not in any way seized)and a SLIGHT wetness on piston.
Rebuilt,all finger push to retract now,rebled and back again.
Brakes now less than 1% out of balance.(0.7%) 229/230
So mine was definately a caliper issue. To be honest I don’t think it was the slightly stiff piston,more like the slight leak drawing a very small amount of air in on release.
Thanks Dave. I enjoyed those testers' guides enormously, and learned a lot from them.
The OP had a steering pull last year's MOT, tester failed the car. After some fiddling OP improved matters slightly and car just passed on retest. Car still has a steering pull and is soon due for test again. Car is 22 years old, and must have had wishbones changed. Do you know when they were last changed, Greenbay Packer? Was a new pair fitted, or just one? What make were they? As I said in post 9 of this thread, it was very obvious to me mine were faulty, watching from below as car above me braked. Without a pit its hard to imagine a simple test. Perhaps you could lever both front bushes in turn with front of the car on axle stands.
You'll never notice a difference between them, buy on the usual cost/convenience basis.
The clips are on the fuel lines, so be careful how you disconnect them
If you're going to pump the piston out a bit further you'll need to put the old pads in first anyway.Whatever you do don't try pumping the piston out with nothing in the way to stop it coming out altogether.
Yes ,dead easy,especially as it’s only a single piston type.to be honest though if the inside of the boot is dry and the piston not rusty and you can push it back nice and easy you won’t achieve much by rebuilding it the usual cause of imbalance on these is the two slider pins/bolts but you have already checked them. The way to get balanced readings(within tolerances) is to have equal physical properties each side.this means identical pad composition,disc condition,caliper condition,hose condition and all new fluid.you will never get a balance of absolute zero but one side coming on before the other USUALLY means that the faulty side has an issue somewhere.nothing to do with anything on the suspension ,bushes,tyres ,etc as the brake rollers are only measuring the effect of what it sees the brakes doing.
Have you got a good pedal!. If not you could still have an air bubble somewhere on that side in either the pipes,abs unit or caliper .
Yep, if the MOT brake tester shows an imbalance then it's clearly not down to the bushes. That doesn't mean they are OK, of course.
I can't remember how the brake circuits are split on an Omega. A problem anywhere other than the caliper would affect both sides equally if they're on the same circuit, which I think they are.
It could be the wishbone front bushes. I had a car, just passed its MOT, but before I handed it over to my son I wanted to correct a brake pull to the left. I had the wife drive it slowly over the inspection pit, with me in it, and brake. It then became obvious to me that the wishbone front bushes were unmatched, causing a steering twitch. I changed the wishbones, and the fault disappeared.