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[Lizzie Zoom]

At the moment Baza I have only been able to source the Bosch product, but I have noted what others have said about the Vx one, which I would still fit if I can get hold of one in time!

Your case does though prove that even the genuine replacement part can fail all too quickly

The reasons for insisting on genuine are to increase the likelihood of getting a high quality part and that the return procedure is better if it does fail quickly. I would like to suggest it helps to get the correct part when there's a choice, but sadly that often isn't the case.


An important thing to consider for genuine Omega parts is how long have they been in stock? That shouldn't affect things like sensors, but can be a real problem for rubber parts like seals, hoses and belts.

And that is my dilemma at the moment.  I have a Bosch sensor, that seems all genuine, coming through in the post but, so far, I cannot find a new Vx version.  Yet although the car is operating as usual at the moment, travelling all around town today, starting and being re-started a few times, I recognise what others have warned me of.  What do I do? Replace with the Bosch as soon as it arrives, or gamble by carrying on regardless until, if and when, I can find the Vx part?

Decisions, decisions, and I do not really want to do the job more than once!!

[Lizzie Zoom]

As for finding that elusive Vx sensor, and one that is not affected by time in storage as Nick rightly points out, as my Vx dealer said, it is now a long time since the last Omega was built.

That is 18 years ago yesterday, the 25th June 2003, according to my dealers system information, so All genuine Vx Omega parts are now getting like hens teeth; increasingly very rare and if still available, more and more expensive!

Now where is my stash of money for an electric luxury car……….?!

[BazaJT]

Please don't misunderstand my previous post I was in no way advocating not buying a genuine GM one[if they can still be had]as when my replacement one packed in I bought yet another GM one.As has been said you're more likely to get a reliable one from a genuine dealership.It is a dilemma indeed for you,as I pointed out it's not so much if it doesn't start but rather if it packs up either when you're on the move-a motorway for example-or crawling along in traffic in the middle of a town.Changing one is easy enough it's only one bolt[near the oil filter]and the electrical plug behind the passenger side head.Don't bother trying to feed the wiring between the manifold and block[as per the original route]but route the wires as far away from the exhaust as possible-I have mine tie wrapped loosely to the brake pipes near the inner wing.Being built like a biro refill I can actually change one while the car is stood on its wheels!

[Nick W]

Lizzie,


if the Bosch sensor you've sourced is NEW, fit it and see what happens. OOF dogma is that only Vx sensors are dependable, but that's from a fairly small sample size compared to the total number of cars. If yours works, and continues to do so, then you're done. If it doesn't work, then you can use the one you removed(assuming that it is genuine ) to acquire a replacement.


There are very few parts that have to be genuine if alternatives exist. And as I stated in my previous post, I would be very wary of certain parts that are best considered NOS. I've bought NOS Girling hydraulic cylinders from one of the classic specialists, and they supplied them with the recommendation to replace the seals with the new ones supplied.

[Andy H]

Lizzie,


if the Bosch sensor you've sourced is NEW, fit it and see what happens. OOF dogma is that only Vx sensors are dependable, but that's from a fairly small sample size compared to the total number of cars. If yours works, and continues to do so, then you're done. If it doesn't work, then you can use the one you removed(assuming that it is genuine ) to acquire a replacement.


There are very few parts that have to be genuine if alternatives exist. And as I stated in my previous post, I would be very wary of certain parts that are best considered NOS. I've bought NOS Girling hydraulic cylinders from one of the classic specialists, and they supplied them with the recommendation to replace the seals with the new ones supplied.

The genuine sensor IS a Bosch sensor. Bosch make it then GM stick it in a GM box and add their mark up.

Knock off copies probably copy the Bosch logo on the plastic moulding.

The crank sensor is a very simple device - a coil of wire wrapped around a magnet. What is difficult is making something dimensionally accurate (the tip of the sensor needs to be close, but not too close, to the teeth on the ring on the back of the crankshaft) and making something that can cope with the heat (magnets become non magnetic when they are hot and the insulation becomes brittle - especially where GM ran the cable too close to the exhaust manifold).

[Nick W]

Lizzie,


if the Bosch sensor you've sourced is NEW, fit it and see what happens. OOF dogma is that only Vx sensors are dependable, but that's from a fairly small sample size compared to the total number of cars. If yours works, and continues to do so, then you're done. If it doesn't work, then you can use the one you removed(assuming that it is genuine ) to acquire a replacement.


There are very few parts that have to be genuine if alternatives exist. And as I stated in my previous post, I would be very wary of certain parts that are best considered NOS. I've bought NOS Girling hydraulic cylinders from one of the classic specialists, and they supplied them with the recommendation to replace the seals with the new ones supplied.

The genuine sensor IS a Bosch sensor. Bosch make it then GM stick it in a GM box and add their mark up.

Knock off copies probably copy the Bosch logo on the plastic moulding.

The crank sensor is a very simple device - a coil of wire wrapped around a magnet. What is difficult is making something dimensionally accurate (the tip of the sensor needs to be close, but not too close, to the teeth on the ring on the back of the crankshaft) and making something that can cope with the heat (magnets become non magnetic when they are hot and the insulation becomes brittle - especially where GM ran the cable too close to the exhaust manifold).

I know, and agree with all that. Hence my suggestion that she try the one she has coming, rather than worry about buying another one that's going to be better because it's genuine.

[Andy H]

Lizzie,


if the Bosch sensor you've sourced is NEW, fit it and see what happens. OOF dogma is that only Vx sensors are dependable, but that's from a fairly small sample size compared to the total number of cars. If yours works, and continues to do so, then you're done. If it doesn't work, then you can use the one you removed(assuming that it is genuine ) to acquire a replacement.


There are very few parts that have to be genuine if alternatives exist. And as I stated in my previous post, I would be very wary of certain parts that are best considered NOS. I've bought NOS Girling hydraulic cylinders from one of the classic specialists, and they supplied them with the recommendation to replace the seals with the new ones supplied.

The genuine sensor IS a Bosch sensor. Bosch make it then GM stick it in a GM box and add their mark up.

Knock off copies probably copy the Bosch logo on the plastic moulding.

The crank sensor is a very simple device - a coil of wire wrapped around a magnet. What is difficult is making something dimensionally accurate (the tip of the sensor needs to be close, but not too close, to the teeth on the ring on the back of the crankshaft) and making something that can cope with the heat (magnets become non magnetic when they are hot and the insulation becomes brittle - especially where GM ran the cable too close to the exhaust manifold).

I know, and agree with all that. Hence my suggestion that she try the one she has coming, rather than worry about buying another one that's going to be better because it's genuine.

[Doctor Gollum]

They heat age from use, not from sitting on a shelf

[Lizzie Zoom]

Please don't misunderstand my previous post I was in no way advocating not buying a genuine GM one[if they can still be had]as when my replacement one packed in I bought yet another GM one.As has been said you're more likely to get a reliable one from a genuine dealership.It is a dilemma indeed for you,as I pointed out it's not so much if it doesn't start but rather if it packs up either when you're on the move-a motorway for example-or crawling along in traffic in the middle of a town.Changing one is easy enough it's only one bolt[near the oil filter]and the electrical plug behind the passenger side head.Don't bother trying to feed the wiring between the manifold and block[as per the original route]but route the wires as far away from the exhaust as possible-I have mine tie wrapped loosely to the brake pipes near the inner wing.Being built like a biro refill I can actually change one while the car is stood on its wheels!

Thanks Baza

Yes, all points noted and agreed with and I am going to route the wire as you suggest and in line with the Maintenance Guide thread.

As for the Vx part...................who knows at the moment!   I cannot even get a breakers part even if I wanted one, which I have researched in my efforts to get a brand new one

[Lizzie Zoom]

Lizzie,


if the Bosch sensor you've sourced is NEW, fit it and see what happens. OOF dogma is that only Vx sensors are dependable, but that's from a fairly small sample size compared to the total number of cars. If yours works, and continues to do so, then you're done. If it doesn't work, then you can use the one you removed(assuming that it is genuine ) to acquire a replacement.


There are very few parts that have to be genuine if alternatives exist. And as I stated in my previous post, I would be very wary of certain parts that are best considered NOS. I've bought NOS Girling hydraulic cylinders from one of the classic specialists, and they supplied them with the recommendation to replace the seals with the new ones supplied.

Thanks Nick

Yes it is claimed by the supplier that the Bosch one is genuine and they quote not only the Opel part number but the Vx one as well.

I cannot do anymore than fit it and see what happens; it must be better than living in the fear of the existing sensor failing as I am driving, as Baza has pointed out with an example of it!

Is it really easy to fit the sensor in it's position above the oil filter?  Do I need to remove the filter to get to it please?

 

[Nick W]

Thanks Nick

Yes it is claimed by the supplier that the Bosch one is genuine and they quote not only the Opel part number but the Vx one as well.

I cannot do anymore than fit it and see what happens; it must be better than living in the fear of the existing sensor failing as I am driving, as Baza has pointed out with an example of it!

Is it really easy to fit the sensor in it's position above the oil filter?  Do I need to remove the filter to get to it please?

 

It's held in with one bolt, remove that and pull the sensor out of its hole. If you park the NSF wheel on a curb, with full righthand lock applied, you can see what you need. Or you could shine a bright light down the space between the back of the downpipe and inner wing for a top down view. If you have small hands and arms you can do the job from above.


Removing the oil filter is just making work for yourself, especially if it's afflicted with the cartridge style filter.


The wire is run up and around the back of the block along with the oil cooler pipes and through all the gubbins that is in the way. Route the replacement towards the inner wing and up, cable tieing it in place.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Thanks Nick

Yes it is claimed by the supplier that the Bosch one is genuine and they quote not only the Opel part number but the Vx one as well.

I cannot do anymore than fit it and see what happens; it must be better than living in the fear of the existing sensor failing as I am driving, as Baza has pointed out with an example of it!

Is it really easy to fit the sensor in it's position above the oil filter?  Do I need to remove the filter to get to it please?

 

It's held in with one bolt, remove that and pull the sensor out of its hole. If you park the NSF wheel on a curb, with full righthand lock applied, you can see what you need. Or you could shine a bright light down the space between the back of the downpipe and inner wing for a top down view. If you have small hands and arms you can do the job from above.


Removing the oil filter is just making work for yourself, especially if it's afflicted with the cartridge style filter.


The wire is run up and around the back of the block along with the oil cooler pipes and through all the gubbins that is in the way. Route the replacement towards the inner wing and up, cable tieing it in place.

Many thanks Nick

[TheBoy]

If going for a Bosch marked one, try to get it from a local Bosch supplier, not an online dodgy store where its actually difficult to even get info on where the company are based.  Those sorts of places are where you get the fake ones

[Lizzie Zoom]

If going for a Bosch marked one, try to get it from a local Bosch supplier, not an online dodgy store where its actually difficult to even get info on where the company are based.  Those sorts of places are where you get the fake ones

Thanks TB. Noted.

[Doctor Gollum]

Quoting the genuine part number is no guarantee of quality. It merely implies that the component is of equivalence to the factory part.

Genuine Bosch or Siemens etc should be of equivalent specification to the factory supplied/fitted parts. This isn't always the case.

And as you drop down the price range, you will usually find less and less equivalency, the last standard to go being the size and shape. That doesn't stop the OE part number from being quoted... Caveat Emptor and all that.

Only buying from physical places should help minimise any short comings because they know you can turn up in person if it goes wrong.