Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: tomuxzz on 25 February 2024, 12:07:18
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HI,
I'm interested to buy this legendary model for weekends. Because I had Opel omega 10years ago and I really liked this model :D
For now its in good condition and everything works fine.
I want to ask maybe someone was selling this model?
What is the real market price in now days ? Or I shouldn't touch this model.. P.S I cant find any other such model in the market :(
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If you're in Europe, then it's basically a rebadged Omega and should be treated as such.
If you're in the US and miss your Omega then yes, buy it.
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If you're in Europe, then it's basically a rebadged Omega and should be treated as such.
If you're in the US and miss your Omega then yes, buy it.
As his profile says Lithuania, if he waits a year or two he might manage a Zil.
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If you're in Europe, then it's basically a rebadged Omega and should be treated as such.
If you're in the US and miss your Omega then yes, buy it.
As his profile says Lithuania, if he waits a year or two he might manage a Zil.
People don't always change it when they move and I chose not to presume ;)
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But how about its value ? Its Cadillac..
I'm interested is it hard to sell in Europe Cadillac.
I also know that those engines do not have a good reputation, even though the car has only driven 130,000 km..
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But how about its value ? Its Cadillac..
I'm interested is it hard to sell in Europe Cadillac.
I also know that those engines do not have a good reputation, even though the car has only driven 130,000 km..
As I said it's basically a rebadged Omega, built in Germany. in Europe it's value is the same as an Omega. And it will have exactly the same issues as an Omega... Because it's an Omega with a Cadillac badge.
Put it another way... Would you pay more for a Vauxhall Astra than an Opel one?
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My question is not about if Cadillac is more worth than omega.
My main question is about this model (Vauxhall, Cadilacs, omegas) all together. Ok I will ask straight. is it not too much to spend about 1500-2200 eur for this car in now days?
But how about its value ? Its Cadillac..
I'm interested is it hard to sell in Europe Cadillac.
I also know that those engines do not have a good reputation, even though the car has only driven 130,000 km..
As I said it's basically a rebadged Omega, built in Germany. in Europe it's value is the same as an Omega. And it will have exactly the same issues as an Omega... Because it's an Omega with a Cadillac badge.
Put it another way... Would you pay more for a Vauxhall Astra than an Opel one?
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If you're in Europe, then it's basically a rebadged Omega and should be treated as such.
If you're in the US and miss your Omega then yes, buy it.
As his profile says Lithuania, if he waits a year or two he might manage a Zil.
People don't always change it when they move and I chose not to presume ;)
As he has only registered on OOF 3 days ago, he is hardly likely to get his location wrong, and have moved in that time...... ::) ::)
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If you like the car & you can afford it without putting yourself into debt just go for it..👍
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My question is not about if Cadillac is more worth than omega.
My main question is about this model (Vauxhall, Cadilacs, omegas) all together. Ok I will ask straight. is it not too much to spend about 1500-2200 eur for this car in now days?
But how about its value ? Its Cadillac..
I'm interested is it hard to sell in Europe Cadillac.
I also know that those engines do not have a good reputation, even though the car has only driven 130,000 km..
It's the age old question - how much is an Omega or Cadillac worth?
There are a lot of factors involved to value one. I personally don't know how Cadillac Caterras are valued relative to Omegas, but assuming they are worth the same.... personally, I would go for a higher spec model (I would go for an Elite or the equivalent Caterra model), a V6 engine (personally a 3.0 3.2 above a 2.5 2.6)
And then condition plays a major part. Many now have corroded front chassis rails, corroded sill and rear wheel arches, plus other common Omega issues (which you can read about on this Forum), and with a model with notable corrosion issues, it depends if you are able to repair it and have the wish to repair a such a car. Some will say such a car is only worth £500 or less. But a well maintained, original top of the range model can command much higher figures than that. If you find a car for sale that is just that, the I don't think 1500 - 2000 euros is too high a price to pay for a good example requiring very little work , both bodily or mechanically. You may have to wait for sometime for the right car to come up for sale, but finding the 'right' car is worth the wait.
You obviously like them, so once you've found the right one for you, it is basically worth what you are willing to pay.
In the long run, it is cheaper to pay a higher price for a car that needs very little doing to it, than paying a lower price for a car that needs body and mechanical repairs.
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I'm not familiar with prices in Eastern Europe. In the UK, it would have very low value, but it seems in most European countries the values are much higher. Not quite sure why that is to be honest.
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I also know that those engines do not have a good reputation, even though the car has only driven 130,000 km..
The engines are pretty good if serviced regular. There are issues around cam cover gaskets failing every few years, and the oil cooler leaking on early models.
The Omega/Catera have a fair few other problems - rust, suspension being the main 2 I think - that kill them (if the owner can't be bothered to sort them), rather than the engine.
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If you like the car & you can afford it without putting yourself into debt just go for it..👍
Great thanks. Yes without dept just for fun and collection :)
About cover gaskets I know situation.
I'm from eastern Europe. I registered in this forum because I liked that this is only Omega forum.
If that car would be rusty I will not buy it. I know this situation too :) Now that car was at the collector's garage and it has rich equipment.
Now I've found this information. Maybe someone heard more about this timing belt problem?
https://www.justanswer.com/gm/44e0b-97-catera-cadillac-recall-the-timing-belt-tensioner.html#:~:text=General%20Motors%20has%20decided%20that,and%20water%20pump%20may%20fail
(https://i.ibb.co/pK6yzXp/Screenshot-2024-02-26-122529.png) (https://ibb.co/JpWQ7kP)
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The timing belt problem isn't a problem, and is eliminated by correctly fitting a new belt kit. That's a routine maintenance item, that should have already been done several times on a twenty plus year-old car.
Note the emphasis on correctly :y
Here in the UK, I suspect a Catera would be worth even less than a similar Omega due to it being left hand drive.
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Yes but mileage is low. So its interesting what belt is inside :D
About UK market I think the same.
The timing belt problem isn't a problem, and is eliminated by correctly fitting a new belt kit. That's a routine maintenance item, that should have already been done several times on a twenty plus year-old car.
Note the emphasis on correctly :y
Here in the UK, I suspect a Catera would be worth even less than a similar Omega due to it being left hand drive.
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Yes but mileage is low. So its interesting what belt is inside :D
About UK market I think the same.
The timing belt problem isn't a problem, and is eliminated by correctly fitting a new belt kit. That's a routine maintenance item, that should have already been done several times on a twenty plus year-old car.
Note the emphasis on correctly :y
Here in the UK, I suspect a Catera would be worth even less than a similar Omega due to it being left hand drive.
Whenever you buy any car, you should budget for a new timing belt kit. You should never rely on any paperwork or promises by the seller, it needs to be done for your own peace of mind.
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Yes but mileage is low. So its interesting what belt is inside :D
About UK market I think the same.
The timing belt problem isn't a problem, and is eliminated by correctly fitting a new belt kit. That's a routine maintenance item, that should have already been done several times on a twenty plus year-old car.
Note the emphasis on correctly :y
Here in the UK, I suspect a Catera would be worth even less than a similar Omega due to it being left hand drive.
Timing belt replacement is done on a mileage and time schedule; the requirement is whichever comes first. Personally, I'm happy with being a bit looser on the time and fairly strict on the mileage.
And, probably for the first time ever, I completely agree with Stemo :o , it's an hour's work and £100(probably, I haven't priced one recently) in parts
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Would you do the mechanical work yourself or do you have someone capable of doing the work correctly?
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If you do buy the Catera, you have found the right place for help and advice to keep it in tip top condition! :y
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A Catera in Europe is unlikely to have had that recall work done as it was a US recall and relates to ridiculous belt intervals. Change the belt kit every 4 years/40k miles and they're unlikely to fail.
But that said, if it has been more or less looked after it should have had the belt kit replaced a few times.
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If you're in Europe, then it's basically a rebadged Omega and should be treated as such.
If you're in the US and miss your Omega then yes, buy it.
As his profile says Lithuania, if he waits a year or two he might manage a Zil.
People don't always change it when they move and I chose not to presume ;)
As he has only registered on OOF 3 days ago, he is hardly likely to get his location wrong, and have moved in that time...... ::) ::)
I was answering Ronny's point. Where the OP is is largely irrelevant but buying a Catera this side of the pond would be somewhat alerternative.
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As others have said, the belt on these should be done every 4yrs or 40k miles (60k km), so *should* have been done. Budget for getting it done if you cannot 100% guarantee it has been. In reality, the change schedule is to reduce the risk of failure to near zero, and even if not strictly followed, shouldn't be an issue. But given the reasonably cheap cost to do it (about 1hr labour and somewhere between €60 - €200 for the part depending on if you want genuine or pattern), its not worth debating further.
The Cambelt Kit is essentially the belt, 2 idlers and a tensioner. Don't just do the belt, its the idlers and tensioner that tend to fail.
Water pump doesn't necessarily need to be done. Personally, I'd check if the bearings were good, and no signs of weeping, and only change if necessary.
The aux belt tensioners tend to dry out their bearings, so a new pulley (less than €10) is alwasy handy to have on standby as well.
A plastic valve at the back, called the Heater Bypass Valve (HBV) tends to start to leak. I'd only replace it if it does leak. My last Omega is still on its original factory HBV 21years later. My previous Omegas had about 3 or 4 of them in my ownership.
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You forgot the crank sensor ;D
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.
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A Catera in Europe is unlikely to have had that recall work done as it was a US recall and relates to ridiculous belt intervals. Change the belt kit every 4 years/40k miles and they're unlikely to fail.
But that said, if it has been more or less looked after it should have had the belt kit replaced a few times.
I think Cateras are released only in US.
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If you do buy the Catera, you have found the right place for help and advice to keep it in tip top condition! :y
Yesterday I saw that Catera, It looks like the car body is good spedometer shows only 80k miles. engine runs flawlessly.
So I'm planing to buy it as weekend car for now.
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Good for you hope it serves you well 👍
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Great. Post up some photos when you get it. :y
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A Catera in Europe is unlikely to have had that recall work done as it was a US recall and relates to ridiculous belt intervals. Change the belt kit every 4 years/40k miles and they're unlikely to fail.
But that said, if it has been more or less looked after it should have had the belt kit replaced a few times.
I think Cateras are released only in US.
It would have potentially been available to order through Cadillac dealerships in Europe, but most likely to have been shipped to Europe by US military personnel stationed there.
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Hi,
I've bought that catera >:D And maby could advise me what is the problem? RPM arrow does not work correctly. It bounces. And when accelerating suddenly, the car stalls, but when driving normally, everything is fine.
I've uploaded video:
https://youtu.be/66dB_xBW6CY?si=tKtjKzw2Fx1x5qXV (https://youtu.be/66dB_xBW6CY?si=tKtjKzw2Fx1x5qXV)
And ABS Ecu is faulty can it cause this ?
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That video is of limited use as you can't hear the engine.
Are you driving when you filmed that? Does the speedometer also not work?
How do you know the ABS is faulty?
Under bonnet pic/video would also be useful... There are some subtle differences between the Omega and Catera engines and it would be useful to see what we're trying to diagnose.
Fwiw,.the early Catera had both 2.5 and 3.0 engines but later ones were 3.0 only, and the last couple of years were DBW rather than cable throttled.
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Throttle issue is probably unrelated to abs and rpm issue.
The ABS light looks very dim, if you press the TC switch does the light come on fully?
I am thinking either the cluster isn't seated fully or it isn't grounded correctly/fully.
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Throttle issue is probably unrelated to abs and rpm issue.
The ABS light looks very dim, if you press the TC switch does the light come on fully?
I am thinking either the cluster isn't seated fully or it isn't grounded correctly/fully.
When I was driving I took out ABS fuse just for checking if it would change something. Abs and tc lights turns on almost every time and than speed does not work. And I cant read abs fault codes with diagnostic.
But the rpm is verry strange. (RPM arrow bounces by self, I'm not doing anything and driving like usual.)
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And sometimes cold engine does not start. I have to disconnect Air flow sensor. only than engine starts :D Warm engine everything is fine.
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Sooo...
You need a new MAF for a start. Again a picture of the engine bay will help a certain the correct one for your car.
A decent code reader to read the ABS ECU and see what it's complaining about, although that's potentially a wheel sensor or ECU fault.
Reseating the cluster might help with the rpm, but again, there could be an issue with the wiring that provides the signal or the cluster itself.
Any sign of moisture behind the driver's kick panel or under the carpet?
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[/img]
Sooo...
You need a new MAF for a start. Again a picture of the engine bay will help a certain the correct one for your car.
A decent code reader to read the ABS ECU and see what it's complaining about, although that's potentially a wheel sensor or ECU fault.
Reseating the cluster might help with the rpm, but again, there could be an issue with the wiring that provides the signal or the cluster itself.
Any sign of moisture behind the driver's kick panel or under the carpet?
I cant access to ABS so that's I think its faulty.
https://ibb.co/S7HQJb3
https://ibb.co/rcLvpRN
https://ibb.co/QMsTDkf
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Ok, that's the later car, so treat the engine as a 3.2 Omega... ie DBW with two coil packs :y And the MAF will be the same Bosch unit, although you should rule out vacuum leaks.
Re the ABS, that's possible, but not sure if all code readers are able to read the ABS or gearbox ECUs. :-\ The fact the the TC light isn't on suggests a different problem, iirc both lights come on when the speedometer fails if it's the ECU that's failed.
What does the TC switch do?
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Ok, that's the later car, so treat the engine as a 3.2 Omega... ie DBW with two coil packs :y And the MAF will be the same Bosch unit, although you should rule out vacuum leaks.
Re the ABS, that's possible, but not sure if all code readers are able to read the ABS or gearbox ECUs. :-\ The fact the the TC light isn't on suggests a different problem, iirc both lights come on when the speedometer fails if it's the ECU that's failed.
What does the TC switch do?
ABS and TC Lights comes together.
Maybe you have some ideas about RPM issue?
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That does suggest the abs ECU. One from a 2002+ V6 omega should suffice or get it repaired.
Have you tried reseating the cluster :-\
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You could always look to find somebody good with a soldering iron, the failure mode on the ABS module is a fractured bond wire, in fact two, (as there are two in parallel to increase current handling), not to hard to repair but it is fiddly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpBmT0s8GnY
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You could always look to find somebody good with a soldering iron, the failure mode on the ABS module is a fractured bond wire, in fact two, (as there are two in parallel to increase current handling), not to hard to repair but it is fiddly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpBmT0s8GnY
Great thanks I will try!
And I created another video for rpm problem, Mabey it would more clear.
https://youtu.be/tgfxWicssL8?si=s0sWJNb4javBIs4Y
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Perhaps I should have been clearer about the video...
There's too much back round noise to hear what the engine is doing, if anything, when the rpm spikes.
No driving and no radio. Just the rpm and the engine.
And for the third or fourth time, have you tried removing and reseating the cluster?
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Perhaps I should have been clearer about the video...
There's too much back round noise to hear what the engine is doing, if anything, when the rpm spikes.
No driving and no radio. Just the rpm and the engine.
And for the third or fourth time, have you tried removing and reseating the cluster?
No I didn't tried.
I created third long video:
https://youtu.be/q-fGX4W9tDQ?si=uDNFD65pVkSo1CJN
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Does the rev counter do that without driving?
And what does the battery gauge do when the rev counter fluctuates?
Is Fuse 12 intact?
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Does the rev counter do that without driving?
And what does the battery gauge do when the rev counter fluctuates?
Is Fuse 12 intact?
12 Fuse is normal.
Without driving and not accelerating rev counter looks good +-
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And how does the battery voltage gauge look...
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And how does the battery voltage gauge look...
On dash it looks like normal voltage.
(https://i.ibb.co/09mSy2p/IMG-1691.jpg) (https://ibb.co/09mSy2p)
Or should I test with voltmeter ?
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And how does the battery voltage gauge look...
On dash it looks like normal voltage.
(https://i.ibb.co/09mSy2p/IMG-1691.jpg) (https://ibb.co/09mSy2p)
Or should I test with voltmeter ?
When the rev counter is erratic?
And what's that red light above it?
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And how does the battery voltage gauge look...
On dash it looks like normal voltage.
(https://i.ibb.co/09mSy2p/IMG-1691.jpg) (https://ibb.co/09mSy2p)
Or should I test with voltmeter ?
When the rev counter is erratic?
And what's that red light above it?
Tomorrow or Wednesday I will do new video with voltage arrow. But I think arrow is stable and always at same position.
That light is seatbelt warning for pasenger.
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That points towards an issue either with the cluster or the connection from the engine ECU.
The dash is the one major difference between the Catera and Omega, and without seeing behind the cluster there may be additional wiring/plugs for the extra displays/warnings.
I suspect that the alternator only feeds the charge light (and battery voltage gauge), whereas the rpm signal comes from the engine ECU information (crank and/or cam sensor).
If the pedal trick works*, any codes may highlight a discrepancy.
* It should as the car is DBW.
The speedometer issue is almost guaranteed to be unrelated.
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That points towards an issue either with the cluster or the connection from the engine ECU.
The dash is the one major difference between the Catera and Omega, and without seeing behind the cluster there may be additional wiring/plugs for the extra displays/warnings.
I suspect that the alternator only feeds the charge light (and battery voltage gauge), whereas the rpm signal comes from the engine ECU information (crank and/or cam sensor).
If the pedal trick works*, any codes may highlight a discrepancy.
* It should as the car is DBW.
The speedometer issue is almost guaranteed to be unrelated.
But engine right on high rpm. Car starts to stall when accelerating. Maybe I should start with (crank and/or cam sensor)?
Previous owner said that they changed crank sensor from omega.
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That points towards an issue either with the cluster or the connection from the engine ECU.
The dash is the one major difference between the Catera and Omega, and without seeing behind the cluster there may be additional wiring/plugs for the extra displays/warnings.
I suspect that the alternator only feeds the charge light (and battery voltage gauge), whereas the rpm signal comes from the engine ECU information (crank and/or cam sensor).
If the pedal trick works*, any codes may highlight a discrepancy.
* It should as the car is DBW.
The speedometer issue is almost guaranteed to be unrelated.
But engine right on high rpm. Car starts to stall when accelerating. Maybe I should start with (crank and/or cam sensor)?
Previous owner said that they changed crank sensor from omega.
Fuel filter ok?
if it miss fires on acceleration that points to ignition voltage and coil packs
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That points towards an issue either with the cluster or the connection from the engine ECU.
The dash is the one major difference between the Catera and Omega, and without seeing behind the cluster there may be additional wiring/plugs for the extra displays/warnings.
I suspect that the alternator only feeds the charge light (and battery voltage gauge), whereas the rpm signal comes from the engine ECU information (crank and/or cam sensor).
If the pedal trick works*, any codes may highlight a discrepancy.
* It should as the car is DBW.
The speedometer issue is almost guaranteed to be unrelated.
But engine right on high rpm. Car starts to stall when accelerating. Maybe I should start with (crank and/or cam sensor)?
Previous owner said that they changed crank sensor from omega.
Fuel filter ok?
if it miss fires on acceleration that points to ignition voltage and coil packs
I'm expecting fuel filter too And I will start to change it first soon.
Coil pack are new. Engine is not misfiring.
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Or a weak pump, or fuel pressure regulator...
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Or a weak pump, or fuel pressure regulator...
FUel pump was changed by previous owner. I changed fuel filter nothing worked.
Also I've noticed that when I cant start engine Sport light on the dash starts blinkink (I've googled it its gearbox some error)
For now I dont have "My Naff Code Reader" to read faults but maybe there is some kind of sensor which checks rpm?
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Just because something was previously changed,. doesn't mean that a) it's not faulty or b) not correctly fitted.
Fuel filter may not have made a difference, but I would wager that it was overdue.
The gear selector issue is yet another, separate, issue rather than part of everything else.
Have you replaced the MAF yet?
Have you reseated the cluster yet?
Also what other parts have been replaced recently?
Get the codes read, either with the pedal trick or an actual code reader and report back.
Crank sensor produces the rpm signal.
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Just because something was previously changed,. doesn't mean that a) it's not faulty or b) not correctly fitted.
Fuel filter may not have made a difference, but I would wager that it was overdue.
The gear selector issue is yet another, separate, issue rather than part of everything else.
Have you replaced the MAF yet?
Have you reseated the cluster yet?
Also what other parts have been replaced recently?
Get the codes read, either with the pedal trick or an actual code reader and report back.
Crank sensor produces the rpm signal.
We have found problem!!!!!! Verry funny thing ;D ;D ;D One small wire on battery - Ground was too rusty so it was poor connection with ground. (sorry hard to explain in English ;D)
And someone asked photos of car. So I made a few :)
(https://i.ibb.co/LkBjB3r/A1707-B37-3-BEF-4095-9-A42-E9768-B27213-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/f1Z6Zs9)
(https://i.ibb.co/FnftcXM/ECA12900-2-A91-459-B-A65-D-F0-B64-DE36-B2-C.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mSY7d0w)
(https://i.ibb.co/jTRkW7v/3148-D110-6-BB8-49-C0-8-DE9-4-FE596-E791-A9.jpg) (https://ibb.co/s2H96Lv)
(https://i.ibb.co/NL5PfJk/AD6-B3107-D69-F-4409-B96-F-3-EA86761-B6-B5.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dQFqXV3)
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Nice easy fix then :)
and a nice looking car 8)
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Nice easy fix then :)
and a nice looking car 8)
Indeedy :y
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Nice car and I love the badges! 8) :y