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General Car Chat / Re: Sadly leaving Omega world
« on: 05 March 2024, 07:37:47 »
Oh look, you do have enough posts to post in the For Sale section
Search the maintenance guides for answers to 99.999% of Omega questions
That might explain why it's always brokenLoads of info on this on LR forums some love them & some hate them, " you pays your money & take your choice" and then pray luck is on your side..Plenty on all the Jaguar forums as well, with all sorts of rash comments like guarantees it won't last 80k miles. Mind you, my car is the V6 diesel, and I'm apparently guaranteed a snapped crank before 100k.... ....so I assumed it must have snapped about 60k ago, and I've not noticed
Personally, I would never buy an engine with rear mounted chains as that such a retarded design. Fortunately, I am unlikely to ever buy a JLR or VAG product, it's unlikely to be much of an issue .
I know Mercedes engines have their issues, but at least the parts that have the majority of the problems are accessible.
Its above my pay grade now.
Popped round to see a Spanish friend who I would describe as an auto electrician. He contacted VW and they said there isnt an amp . Searching the web, we have concluded the component we are looking for is under the drivers seat ( LHD). There is certainly something there under the carpet.
So I have booked it in for probable seat removal later next week.
Long shot but anyone know where the amp is located on a mk 7 golf estate?
Got RH front door speaker, off most of the time - comes on sometimes on the wretched potholes.
Door panel off - no power to speaker.
Head unit off and quite a surprise at just how few wires there are. So somewhere there is an amp with loads of wires. Can’t see one under/ back of glove box , only pollen filter. Nothing obvious in boot. Couple of humps under each front seats but covered by carpet. Can’t see much cooling if they are under that! So stumped. Not getting very far on the internet either.
Had a look, not tooooo bad.That sounds like a bodge fix.
Bumper as obviously known.
New rad needed, bumper smashed into it.
Wheel arch liners, I think, got some bits look like they should fit there
Exhaust grazed through, think one of those repair kits will work here for the moment.
Heatshields bent a bit, roughly straighted them.
Both headlights need bottom clip gluing on.
Drivers wheel a little buckled, will swap with the spare for now.
Started it on stands with no bumper to have a look, drivers side wheel was sluggish to start moving, just jerked slowly initially. Next start it worked fine, so hope that ok. ABS light on, not read the codes yet.
So, Shall get a rad and fit that, clamp the exhast, swap the wheel with the spare and give it a road test, assuming all ok will sort an alignment check after i pick up the liners and bumper and glue the lights.
First decent pothole will break the glued clips. New crash bar isn't that expensive and will confirm just how far out the rest is.
Abs light suggests a hub issue.
Indeed. Something very wrong there... At the very least, Boeing should have an inspection team at Spirit Aero double checking them before they're loaded for shipping and once again once they get to final assembly.
Better yet, bring the fuse assembly back in house.
Obviously, starting with the wrong aircraft hasn't helped
If you google "Mercedes eco-start-stop-technology-guide-pdf", and click on the link to the glaowners.com, you'll get a pdf describing the system. There is a whole load of guff in there, and I checked it all on my car. The only thing that is out of limits is the battery voltage drop.
What I'm unsure about is if it's the drop on the small auxillary battery, or the main 'big' battery. But I can see on the iCarsoft that the 'battery' voltage dips to between 10 and 11V on my car (from > 12.5V) , and that's enough to disable stop start.
If the voltage dip (U < 11V) at engine start is to great, the engine stop is deactivated for t = 1 minute in order to recharge the Eco start/stop function battery
They do!
The Merc system monitors the battery voltage drop during cranking. If the voltage drops below (IIRC) 11.5V then it disables Stop/Start. It'll still start all the way down to less than 9V.
It's not really the state of charge that matters, but the batteries internal resistance. The resistance increases as the battery ages, so it can be fully charged (>13.7V) but still drop enough during cranking to disable the Stop Start.
Mine's been like it for over a year. Behaviour confirmed by iCarsoft scanner. New AGM Stop/Start battery would no doubt cure it, but why on earth would I want to do that! £300 to re-enable something I don't want.
....
Coded the stupid start stop malarky off mine, Only kicks in if I have it in Eco Plus mode..... Which I never do!
My ML's stop/start has stopped working all by itself I suspect the main battery is a little low, though it never hesitates to start up.
An interesting read.
Just waiting for all the court cases attributing car crashes due to the driver looking at the screens. (like the use of mobile phones)
Thank god I still have my Omega's. They have plenty of buttons/screens for me but I am not looking forward to the future when I replace them.
.....
Just wait until you get a 24MY car which badgers you every time there is a speed limit change or you go 1mph over the speed limit.....you quickly learn the to knock that one off at every ignition cycle
hope it's set up better than than the camera in my ML that reads road speed signs ..... every now & then it comes up with the NSL sign when on a 30/40 road. I've yet to discover what it thinks it's 'seen'