Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: 3.0V6Elite on 05 April 2009, 12:47:05
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It's been just over a week since I changed the head gaskets on my 3.0 V6, so I thought that I would change the oil again to get rid of any crap that might still be in there. I now have the problem that the threads have been stipped from the drain plug. >:(
My question is, will it be OK to start it up so that I can move it into the garage from the drive until I can get another plug tomorrow with no oil in it?
A prompt response would be appreciated.
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No......
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ok , here's an idea
work a piece of wood down so that you can push it into the drain plug hole. Make sure that the end is neat so wood doesn't come off it and float around the engine. Bang it in. Put the old oil back in
start it up and move it - get someone to watch underneath the car to check the wood plug does not let go, if it does instantly stop
should be enough to allow you to move it BUT no further thn drive to garage.
Yes its a bodge but it does not need to last!
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can't you push it in???
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can't you push it in???
........or take the plugs out disconnect the plug leads and use the starter motor to wind her into the garage ;)
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can't you push it in???
........or take the plugs out disconnect the plug leads and use the starter motor to wind her into the garage ;)
Still puts load on the engine bearings though
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I wouldn't even turn the key ::) ::)
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Another alternative would be to remove the sump and swap for another one with a good sump plug in it.
I know just the person who has one :y
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can't you push it in???
........or take the plugs out disconnect the plug leads and use the starter motor to wind her into the garage ;)
Still puts load on the engine bearings though
True, but at very low revs.
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Loads of mates for pushing power should be ok over a short distance surely.
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I know you are thinking of a new sump plug, but the threads on your plug may be fine, the ones in the sump are the ones that go. ::)
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Far more likely the sump has stripped rather than the plug...
And as every one has said, don't even think of rotating engine with no oil!!
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or you could remove the sump drill and re tap to a larger size get a screw thread insert and put that into the larger thread you made in the sump and that will bring it back to the original size now re insert sump plug job done :y
http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv
a bit of a longer way round the problem i know the up side is the new thread wont strip any where near as easily being made from a hard stainless steel i have done this on past cars to all the spark plug threads works a treat the same is done on some aircraft parts
(make sure to remove any/all swarf/particles of metal before re-fitting the sump)
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Another way would be to find a neighbour who's got RAC, AA, etc. cover - the ones which protect them on any car. Worked for me a treat once ::)
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Thank's for all the replies and ideas guys. Hopefully the thread on the sump will be OK and just a new plug will suffice as the plug is fubar'd. As for moving it, don't worry, I have no intention of even turning the key, she will stay where she is until tomorrow. :y
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I still think the quickest and easiest way would be to remove the sump and swap for another
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Another alternative would be to remove the sump and swap for another one with a good sump plug in it.
I know just the person who has one :y
That would be a great alternative, but I need to get one sooner rather that later, if you know what I mean. :)
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screw thread inserts/heli coils
http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv
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screw thread inserts/heli coils
http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv
Interesting!
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screw thread inserts/heli coils
http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv
Interesting!
Helicoils are crap at the best of times on items that will be fitted & removed at various times, not too bad if it's to be fitted & left in, they have a tendancy to wind themselves out. The lower sump pan is only pressed steel with an ally threaded ring pressed into it. It's this female thread that's likely to be fubar'd.
I agree with Daz/Loo Knee regarding replacing it, they're not that expensive new, a 2nd hand pan will be even cheaper, and held up with a handfull of M6 bolts & grey sealant.
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screw thread inserts/heli coils
http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv
Interesting!
Helicoils are crap at the best of times on items that will be fitted & removed at various times, not too bad if it's to be fitted & left in, they have a tendancy to wind themselves out. The lower sump pan is only pressed steel with an ally threaded ring pressed into it. It's this female thread that's likely to be fubar'd.
I agree with Daz/Loo Knee regarding replacing it, they're not that expensive new, a 2nd hand pan will be even cheaper, and held up with a handfull of M6 bolts & grey sealant.
When you say "not that expensive new", how much do you think I will be looking at for a new pan?
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obviously you are not a precision engineer working for a large company
as i am and produce parts for the euro fighter weapon systems and they are used very often
with working tolarances of microns
need i say more
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screw thread inserts/heli coils
http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv
Interesting!
Helicoils are crap at the best of times on items that will be fitted & removed at various times, not too bad if it's to be fitted & left in, they have a tendancy to wind themselves out. The lower sump pan is only pressed steel with an ally threaded ring pressed into it. It's this female thread that's likely to be fubar'd.
I agree with Daz/Loo Knee regarding replacing it, they're not that expensive new, a 2nd hand pan will be even cheaper, and held up with a handfull of M6 bolts & grey sealant.
When you say "not that expensive new", how much do you think I will be looking at for a new pan?
IIRC when I bought mine a couple of years back it was about £35 ...
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obviously you are not a precision engineer working for a large company
as i am and produce parts for the euro fighter weapon systems and they are used very often
with working tolarances of microns
need i say more
Try not to be quite so condecending ...... :-?
In every case I've ever come across a Helicoil, they've tended to wind back out with the bolt, and I'm quite capable in an enginner's workshop ..... we just don't build planes.
I have used Time certs though ...... http://www.timesert.com/ far superior.
Anyway, what ever you like to use, neither repair is appropiate for the sump pan.
Just for info .... I'm time served with the MOD! and I still think they're crap
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obviously not installed correctly then if the right compound is used to secure them in place there is a molecular bond created which is as strong as surrounding components
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obviously not installed correctly then if the right compound is used to secure them in place there is a molecular bond created which is as strong as surrounding components
You might be right! :y But I'd still prefer the Time Cert as it's all one piece and not a coil. ;)
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the reason we don't use them is that the last three threads that are used to hold the certs in can distort or stress the surrounding areas causing the item to be scrap!
they both have there places and we just don't see eye to eye but the input has been good input and that can only be a good thing :y :y :y
i will bight my tongue in future before going on one i apologize :)
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i will bight my tongue in future before going on one i apologize :)
Accepted! :y :y :y
A boss at work even accused me of not being a 'shrinking Violet' ...... ::) ::) ::)
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screw thread inserts/heli coils
http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv
Interesting!
Helicoils are crap at the best of times on items that will be fitted & removed at various times, not too bad if it's to be fitted & left in, they have a tendancy to wind themselves out. The lower sump pan is only pressed steel with an ally threaded ring pressed into it. It's this female thread that's likely to be fubar'd.
I agree with Daz/Loo Knee regarding replacing it, they're not that expensive new, a 2nd hand pan will be even cheaper, and held up with a handfull of M6 bolts & grey sealant.
Disagree strongly. Helicoils are used in performance race cars as it provides a reliable and a strong thread....
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screw thread inserts/heli coils
http://www.emhart.com/media/win/helicoil.wmv
Interesting!
Helicoils are crap at the best of times on items that will be fitted & removed at various times, not too bad if it's to be fitted & left in, they have a tendancy to wind themselves out. The lower sump pan is only pressed steel with an ally threaded ring pressed into it. It's this female thread that's likely to be fubar'd.
I agree with Daz/Loo Knee regarding replacing it, they're not that expensive new, a 2nd hand pan will be even cheaper, and held up with a handfull of M6 bolts & grey sealant.
Disagree strongly. Helicoils are used in performance race cars as it provides a reliable and a strong thread....
:y :y :y :y
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Why can't the sump be tapped to the next std thread size and an appropriate sized bolt be used with a copper washer?
eddie
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....... Helicoils are used in performance race cars as it provides a reliable and a strong thread....
Perhaps I should strip my engine down after each major use ....... they do on race cars! ;)
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Why can't the sump be tapped to the next std thread size and an appropriate sized bolt be used with a copper washer?
eddie
You could I supppose, but by the time you've done that you might as well have replaced the sump. As said, the plug is threaded into an ally ring that's pressed into the pan, and there's not that much ally!
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just screw an old spark plug into the sump plug hole and refill with oil, very old trick !! :y
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New drain plug purchased and luckly it fits like a glove so no damage done to the oil pan threads thank god! All running smoothly now. :y :y :y
Thanks for all the feedback.
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....... Helicoils are used in performance race cars as it provides a reliable and a strong thread....
Perhaps I should strip my engine down after each major use ....... they do on race cars! ;)
Precisely - the fact they are stripped down time and time again shows the resilience of the helicoil!
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....... Helicoils are used in performance race cars as it provides a reliable and a strong thread....
Perhaps I should strip my engine down after each major use ....... they do on race cars! ;)
Precisely - the fact they are stripped down time and time again shows the resilience of the helicoil!
You stick with your networks & I'll stick with Timecerts! ;) ;) ;)
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....... Helicoils are used in performance race cars as it provides a reliable and a strong thread....
Perhaps I should strip my engine down after each major use ....... they do on race cars! ;)
Precisely - the fact they are stripped down time and time again shows the resilience of the helicoil!
You stick with your networks & I'll stick with Timecerts! ;) ;) ;)
Never seen a helicoil used in computing stuff. Those nasty brass inserts sometimes, but never a helicoil :P
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just screw an old spark plug into the sump plug hole and refill with oil, very old trick !! :y
If you can find an older fat spark plug now....
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just screw an old spark plug into the sump plug hole and refill with oil, very old trick !! :y
If you can find an older fat spark plug now....
Got loads - used in my TR4A :y
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Never seen a helicoil used in computing stuff. Those nasty brass inserts sometimes, but never a helicoil :P
My point exactly! :y :y :y :y
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Never seen a helicoil used in computing stuff. Those nasty brass inserts sometimes, but never a helicoil :P
My point exactly! :y :y :y :y
Which is why all the threads are boogered ;D
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Never seen a helicoil used in computing stuff. Those nasty brass inserts sometimes, but never a helicoil :P
My point exactly! :y :y :y :y
Which is why all the threads are boogered ;D
That and the Neanderthals that get sent out posing as "engineers" to do support sometimes. ::)
Kevin
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Never seen a helicoil used in computing stuff. Those nasty brass inserts sometimes, but never a helicoil :P
My point exactly! :y :y :y :y
Which is why all the threads are boogered ;D
That and the Neanderthals that get sent out posing as "engineers" to do support sometimes. ::)
Kevin
And annoyingly, I'm not allowed to touch hardware any more, despite the training. Apparently I'm too valuable to waste my time playing with hardware.
So with comments like that, who do they employ for hardware, and it would certainly answer the puzzle over the mess these servers get in once they have been attacked by the hardware 'engineers'
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just screw an old spark plug into the sump plug hole and refill with oil, very old trick !! :y
If you can find an older fat spark plug now....
nope it was acommon trick to do on the senny and GSi when rebuilding engines etc where after the initial drain you didnt want oil dripping out while you moved it around :y
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And annoyingly, I'm not allowed to touch hardware any more, despite the training. Apparently I'm too valuable to waste my time playing with hardware.
So with comments like that, who do they employ for hardware, and it would certainly answer the puzzle over the mess these servers get in once they have been attacked by the hardware 'engineers'
..so the hardware sits broken as you watch a succession of muppets trying to fix it?
I was thinking in particular about the guy from a well known online PC retailer who took the case off my PC, then replaced it and, upon hitting on the odd occasion when the intermittent fault would allow it to boot, pronounced that the problem must have been that the case was fitted wrongly since that was the only thing he had disturbed. ::)
I suppose, on the bright side, there is a glimmer of logic behind that diagnosis but unimpaired by the faintest clue how a PC works. >:(
Kevin
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just screw an old spark plug into the sump plug hole and refill with oil, very old trick !! :y
If you can find an older fat spark plug now....
nope it was acommon trick to do on the senny and GSi when rebuilding engines etc where after the initial drain you didnt want oil dripping out while you moved it around :y
The v6 sump plugs seem to be a bit bigger than omega spark plugs. Used a spark plug in the tractor after that incident with the sump plug, but that had already been helicoiled
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....... Helicoils are used in performance race cars as it provides a reliable and a strong thread....
Perhaps I should strip my engine down after each major use ....... they do on race cars! ;)
Precisely - the fact they are stripped down time and time again shows the resilience of the helicoil!
You stick with your networks & I'll stick with Timecerts! ;) ;) ;)
http://www.aircraftfast.com/inserts.htm
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....... Helicoils are used in performance race cars as it provides a reliable and a strong thread....
Perhaps I should strip my engine down after each major use ....... they do on race cars! ;)
Precisely - the fact they are stripped down time and time again shows the resilience of the helicoil!
You stick with your networks & I'll stick with Timecerts! ;) ;) ;)
http://www.aircraftfast.com/inserts.htm
US aircraft obviously like to use Helicoils. I admit I've only ever fitted a andfull of them in my life, but IME the Helicoils I've come across have often unwound out of the helicoil tapped hole.
I've had better results with the solid one piece Timecert thread repairs. What have you fitted them to where the slight expansion of the bottom of the insert has damaged the component? I've generally used them where I've repaired or beafed up a thread in ally.
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....... Helicoils are used in performance race cars as it provides a reliable and a strong thread....
Perhaps I should strip my engine down after each major use ....... they do on race cars! ;)
Precisely - the fact they are stripped down time and time again shows the resilience of the helicoil!
You stick with your networks & I'll stick with Timecerts! ;) ;) ;)
http://www.aircraftfast.com/inserts.htm
US aircraft obviously like to use Helicoils. I admit I've only ever fitted a andfull of them in my life, but IME the Helicoils I've come across have often unwound out of the helicoil tapped hole.
I've had better results with the solid one piece Timecert thread repairs. What have you fitted them to where the slight expansion of the bottom of the insert has damaged the component? I've generally used them where I've repaired or beafed up a thread in ally.
some of the item Ive fitted them to are so delicate after stress and crack detection that if you dropped it from about 30 mill to your desk just put it in the bin scarp plus when hard anodised this can affect it to so off it all goes again to be xray-ed for material defects and sample pieces are sent to check the rockwell hardness
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....... Helicoils are used in performance race cars as it provides a reliable and a strong thread....
Perhaps I should strip my engine down after each major use ....... they do on race cars! ;)
Precisely - the fact they are stripped down time and time again shows the resilience of the helicoil!
You stick with your networks & I'll stick with Timecerts! ;) ;) ;)
http://www.aircraftfast.com/inserts.htm
US aircraft obviously like to use Helicoils. I admit I've only ever fitted a andfull of them in my life, but IME the Helicoils I've come across have often unwound out of the helicoil tapped hole.
I've had better results with the solid one piece Timecert thread repairs. What have you fitted them to where the slight expansion of the bottom of the insert has damaged the component? I've generally used them where I've repaired or beafed up a thread in ally.
some of the item Ive fitted them to are so delicate after stress and crack detection that if you dropped it from about 30 mill to your desk just put it in the bin scarp plus when hard anodised this can affect it to so off it all goes again to be x rayed for material defects and sample pieces are sent to check the Rockwell hardness
i think time-certs being solid are just to heavy as the coils we use are titanium set in beryllium
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i think time-certs being solid are just to heavy as the coils we use are titanium set in beryllium
A completely different ball game then! :y :y
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some of the item Ive fitted them to are so delicate after stress and crack detection that if you dropped it from about 30 mill to your desk just put it in the bin scarp plus when hard anodised this can affect it to so off it all goes again to be xray-ed for material defects and sample pieces are sent to check the rockwell hardness
They don't need to be delicate if they're painted Battle Ship Grey and are going to float! ;D ;D ;D :y
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some of the item Ive fitted them to are so delicate after stress and crack detection that if you dropped it from about 30 mill to your desk just put it in the bin scarp plus when hard anodised this can affect it to so off it all goes again to be xray-ed for material defects and sample pieces are sent to check the rockwell hardness
They don't need to be delicate if they're painted Battle Ship Grey and are going to float! ;D ;D ;D :y
absolutely ;D :y
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some of the item Ive fitted them to are so delicate after stress and crack detection that if you dropped it from about 30 mill to your desk just put it in the bin scarp plus when hard anodised this can affect it to so off it all goes again to be xray-ed for material defects and sample pieces are sent to check the rockwell hardness
They don't need to be delicate if they're painted Battle Ship Grey and are going to float! ;D ;D ;D :y
absolutely ;D :y
these are the machines i work on to make these components
http://www.mazakusa.com/
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some of the item Ive fitted them to are so delicate after stress and crack detection that if you dropped it from about 30 mill to your desk just put it in the bin scarp plus when hard anodised this can affect it to so off it all goes again to be xray-ed for material defects and sample pieces are sent to check the rockwell hardness
They don't need to be delicate if they're painted Battle Ship Grey and are going to float! ;D ;D ;D :y
absolutely ;D :y
these are the machines i work on to make these components
http://www.mazakusa.com/
:y :y :y Closest I've got to that is a digital read out.
Mazak ..... isn't that the 'monkey metal' they made Morris Minor (etc) tail lamps out of? ;D ;D ;D
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some of the item Ive fitted them to are so delicate after stress and crack detection that if you dropped it from about 30 mill to your desk just put it in the bin scarp plus when hard anodised this can affect it to so off it all goes again to be xray-ed for material defects and sample pieces are sent to check the rockwell hardness
They don't need to be delicate if they're painted Battle Ship Grey and are going to float! ;D ;D ;D :y
absolutely ;D :y
these are the machines i work on to make these components
http://www.mazakusa.com/
:y :y :y Closest I've got to that is a digital read out.
Mazak ..... isn't that the 'monkey metal' they made Morris Minor (etc) tail lamps out of? ;D ;D ;D
check the machine out at work pure genius
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=139z62o6OhA
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some of the item Ive fitted them to are so delicate after stress and crack detection that if you dropped it from about 30 mill to your desk just put it in the bin scarp plus when hard anodised this can affect it to so off it all goes again to be xray-ed for material defects and sample pieces are sent to check the rockwell hardness
They don't need to be delicate if they're painted Battle Ship Grey and are going to float! ;D ;D ;D :y
absolutely ;D :y
these are the machines i work on to make these components
http://www.mazakusa.com/
:y :y :y Closest I've got to that is a digital read out.
Mazak ..... isn't that the 'monkey metal' they made Morris Minor (etc) tail lamps out of? ;D ;D ;D
check the machine out at work pure genius
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=139z62o6OhA
Not bad I suppose ::) ::) ::)
I reckon I could manage the first pieceon a centre lathe and a Bridgeport miller ...... eventually! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Which is the B axis? I've only used X Y & Z
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Tool rotation
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Tool rotation
Ah! I saw 5 axis mentioned so what's the 5th?
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Tool rotation
Ah! I saw 5 axis mentioned so what's the 5th?
the second chuck slide
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Tool rotation
Ah! I saw 5 axis mentioned so what's the 5th?
the second chuck slide
I suppose that was the only one left it could be! An impressive bit of kit. A couple of quid to buy I would think! :-? :y :y
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Tool rotation
Ah! I saw 5 axis mentioned so what's the 5th?
the second chuck slide
I suppose that was the only one left it could be! An impressive bit of kit. A couple of quid to buy I would think! :-? :y :y
for sure no change out of a 3/4 of a million :o
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Tool rotation
Ah! I saw 5 axis mentioned so what's the 5th?
the second chuck slide
I suppose that was the only one left it could be! An impressive bit of kit. A couple of quid to buy I would think! :-? :y :y
for sure no change out of a 3/4 of a million :o
Very nice piece of kit :y Are you based at Warndon?
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Tool rotation
Ah! I saw 5 axis mentioned so what's the 5th?
the second chuck slide
I suppose that was the only one left it could be! An impressive bit of kit. A couple of quid to buy I would think! :-? :y :y
for sure no change out of a 3/4 of a million :o
Very nice piece of kit :y Are you based at Warndon?
no im in w,mids uk birmingham :y