46
Omega General Help / V6 plenum - short/long.
« on: 21 December 2007, 21:08:30 »
What are the differences between V6 engines with a short or a long plenum?
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47
Omega General Help / 2.6l misfire
« on: 26 November 2007, 20:40:49 »
After being over the moon with my new acquisition for a couple of weeks I've hit my first problem.
I was driving in rain this evening when the EML began flashing on and off for about 30 secs., accompanying a persistent misfire, which sounds like one cylinder out. The EML then stayed on for the rest of the journey and the misfire didn't clear, but it didn't seem to have any noticeable effect on MPG per the display or on the idle RPM, but I put the latter down to 6 cylinders rather than 4. I nursed it home although I couldn't have done otherwise as she didn't want to accelerate enough to get me out of 4th gear. I don't think it was in limp mode but I've never experienced this.
I'm going to check/replace plugs as a first step, but haven't worked on a V6 let alone a plug per coil set-up.
Could anyone give me a brief run down on how to proceed with CPP removal, please? How can I check which one is not firing.
I would normally have done the preliminary investigation before asking but need to get the car mobile ASAP and hope I might be able to save a little time with the help of the experts on here. And I don't want to miss the North West meet on Sunday!
Many thanks in anticipation.
Bill.
I was driving in rain this evening when the EML began flashing on and off for about 30 secs., accompanying a persistent misfire, which sounds like one cylinder out. The EML then stayed on for the rest of the journey and the misfire didn't clear, but it didn't seem to have any noticeable effect on MPG per the display or on the idle RPM, but I put the latter down to 6 cylinders rather than 4. I nursed it home although I couldn't have done otherwise as she didn't want to accelerate enough to get me out of 4th gear. I don't think it was in limp mode but I've never experienced this.
I'm going to check/replace plugs as a first step, but haven't worked on a V6 let alone a plug per coil set-up.
Could anyone give me a brief run down on how to proceed with CPP removal, please? How can I check which one is not firing.
I would normally have done the preliminary investigation before asking but need to get the car mobile ASAP and hope I might be able to save a little time with the help of the experts on here. And I don't want to miss the North West meet on Sunday!
Many thanks in anticipation.
Bill.
48
Omega General Help / 2.6l Cam cover gasket replacement.
« on: 08 December 2007, 14:23:06 »
Can't find the torque value for the camshaft cover bolts in the list by Marksdtmcalib.
I presume this is important to get right.
I'm going to use 8Nm. Will this be OK, please?
I presume this is important to get right.
I'm going to use 8Nm. Will this be OK, please?
49
Omega General Help / 2.6l plenum removal
« on: 04 December 2007, 16:46:59 »
I've almost got the plenum cover off, but can't remove the multi ram plug. I've depressed the two wire clips and pulled 'til I'm blue in the face, but it won't come away. I'm afraid to use greater force until I'm certain how it's supposed to come out.
Can anyone tell me where I'm going wrong, please?
Thanks.
Can anyone tell me where I'm going wrong, please?
Thanks.
50
Omega General Help / If the EML disappears when next starting...
« on: 27 November 2007, 09:33:45 »
This relates partly to a separate thread entitled '2.6l misfire'. I don't understand the operation of the EML completely and am wondering whether someone can explain whether a fault has cleared if the light comes on as a warning but then disappears when next the engine is started. I had a flashing warning last night, which Kevin Wood has warned means a cat could be damaged, but there is no light this morning and the misfire problem has disappeared.
I will need to investigate the cause of the warning, of course, but can I safely drive the car unless it is repeated?
Many thanks.
I will need to investigate the cause of the warning, of course, but can I safely drive the car unless it is repeated?
Many thanks.
51
Omega General Help / Blue smoke on starting only
« on: 19 November 2007, 20:34:04 »
I recently bought a 2001 Y reg 2.6l estate, at 75k, which is in great condition and has everything working except for a rear speaker, which I'll get to sorting in the near future. It has a good although not fully complete service record and the cambelt etc. was changed at 65k according to the invoices which came with the vehicle. I don't know whether the breather systems have been properly cleaned.
However, I noticed a burst of light blue smoke on starting from cold recently, (I must say this wasn't noticed when I collected the car) and it certainly isn't obviously evident during normal driving or when starting when warm. Oil consumption doesn't seem to be out of the ordinary although I haven't had the car long enough yet to be accurate about this. My first reaction is worn valve stem seals allowing oil to settle in the cylinders during a lengthy rest, which is burned off on first starting in the morning, rather than worn bores or piston rings, which I would have thought would show oil smoke under all running conditions.
The tickover is absolutely steady and sweet at exactly 500rpm, (slightly low, perhaps?) and she runs beautifully throughout the normal driving range. I'm afraid I really don't know exactly what performance to expect from a 2.6l but it has plenty of power when the right foot is used. There is perhaps a very slight hesitation at around 15/20 mph when accelerating but it's so slight that I might be imagining it.
My experience of engines is based on the days long before electronics and ECU's etc. and I'd be grateful to learn whether my 'diagnosis' is likely to be right or whether there are other factors in modern power units which might cause the same effect.
Any opinions would be very much appreciated.
Cheers,
Bill
However, I noticed a burst of light blue smoke on starting from cold recently, (I must say this wasn't noticed when I collected the car) and it certainly isn't obviously evident during normal driving or when starting when warm. Oil consumption doesn't seem to be out of the ordinary although I haven't had the car long enough yet to be accurate about this. My first reaction is worn valve stem seals allowing oil to settle in the cylinders during a lengthy rest, which is burned off on first starting in the morning, rather than worn bores or piston rings, which I would have thought would show oil smoke under all running conditions.
The tickover is absolutely steady and sweet at exactly 500rpm, (slightly low, perhaps?) and she runs beautifully throughout the normal driving range. I'm afraid I really don't know exactly what performance to expect from a 2.6l but it has plenty of power when the right foot is used. There is perhaps a very slight hesitation at around 15/20 mph when accelerating but it's so slight that I might be imagining it.
My experience of engines is based on the days long before electronics and ECU's etc. and I'd be grateful to learn whether my 'diagnosis' is likely to be right or whether there are other factors in modern power units which might cause the same effect.
Any opinions would be very much appreciated.
Cheers,
Bill
52
Omega General Help / Instrument panel lights seem dim.
« on: 14 November 2007, 20:20:11 »
The panel illumination lights on my 2001 facelift 2.6l estate are much dimmer on their 'highest' setting, compared to my 2.0l, on which they are quite white when the dimmer is fully up. (I like them this way). The 2.6 dimmer control is working fine but at its highest setting all the lamps which it controls are only 'yellow'.
They are all readable OK, but I'm wondering whether this is a deliberate design feature on the facelift models. There isn't any obvious change in intensity at different engine speeds.
Is it something I will have to live with? Would LED lights make a worthwhile difference?
Hope someone can advise.
Cheers,
Bill
They are all readable OK, but I'm wondering whether this is a deliberate design feature on the facelift models. There isn't any obvious change in intensity at different engine speeds.
Is it something I will have to live with? Would LED lights make a worthwhile difference?
Hope someone can advise.
Cheers,
Bill
53
Omega General Help / 2.0l ICV cleaning guide.
« on: 03 November 2007, 09:48:58 »
I just want to thank Grumpy (and any others who might have been involved), for the brilliant guide to this subject.
I had all the symptoms of this problem, intermittently but severely, for months, and before I had any guidance from this forum I ended up spending £700 with the local main stealer trying to rectify matters. I had to take it back twice as the problem persisted even after replacement of several 'defective' parts, and eventually reduced the occurence to a minimal level, but it still occurred occasionally.
Finally, I cleaned the various breather pipes myself, which helped further but didn't provide a final solution, but since I flushed and changed the oil and filter twice in quick succession, I haven't had any recurrence for some 6 months.
Clearly, proper maintenance is the answer, as has been pointed out so many times on this forum.
Cheers,
Bill
I had all the symptoms of this problem, intermittently but severely, for months, and before I had any guidance from this forum I ended up spending £700 with the local main stealer trying to rectify matters. I had to take it back twice as the problem persisted even after replacement of several 'defective' parts, and eventually reduced the occurence to a minimal level, but it still occurred occasionally.
Finally, I cleaned the various breather pipes myself, which helped further but didn't provide a final solution, but since I flushed and changed the oil and filter twice in quick succession, I haven't had any recurrence for some 6 months.
Clearly, proper maintenance is the answer, as has been pointed out so many times on this forum.
Cheers,
Bill
54
Omega General Help / Simple cure for faulty key fob.
« on: 28 October 2007, 10:44:49 »
I've just 'repaired' my third faulty key fob at no cost whatsoever.
I took one to my local excellent Motor Spares shop,( not a factor), to replace the battery and was told the fob was damaged inside, but that the battery was OK. The battery is secured in a plastic socket and this is in turn supported by thin metal contact 'tags' joining it to the miniature circuitry board in the base of the key body. One of these had broken, (the same one in all three cases) which allowed the battery holder to spring upwards only slightly from its proper positon, thus opening the gap and destroying the contact between the battery and the circuitry. Soldering was suggested as a solution but i reckoned heat in this area could destroy the tiny components and was not an option without specialised equipment.
The solution was simple. I cut out sufficient tiny (about 1cm. square) pieces of thin card (one piece of thicker card would do the job just as well I'm sure) and placed them carefully in position in the base of the holder so that when the case was reassembled the battery was pressed back into its proper position.
Result- Key fobs working perfectly again with no suggestion of inconsistent operation and, of course, a little more money saved to pour into the tank.
A very simple cure, which I hope might be of use to somebody.
Bill
I took one to my local excellent Motor Spares shop,( not a factor), to replace the battery and was told the fob was damaged inside, but that the battery was OK. The battery is secured in a plastic socket and this is in turn supported by thin metal contact 'tags' joining it to the miniature circuitry board in the base of the key body. One of these had broken, (the same one in all three cases) which allowed the battery holder to spring upwards only slightly from its proper positon, thus opening the gap and destroying the contact between the battery and the circuitry. Soldering was suggested as a solution but i reckoned heat in this area could destroy the tiny components and was not an option without specialised equipment.
The solution was simple. I cut out sufficient tiny (about 1cm. square) pieces of thin card (one piece of thicker card would do the job just as well I'm sure) and placed them carefully in position in the base of the holder so that when the case was reassembled the battery was pressed back into its proper position.
Result- Key fobs working perfectly again with no suggestion of inconsistent operation and, of course, a little more money saved to pour into the tank.
A very simple cure, which I hope might be of use to somebody.
Bill
55
Omega General Help / Purchasing 2.6l estate
« on: 16 October 2007, 14:02:10 »
Firstly, thanks for all the welcome messages. much appreciated.
I'm thinking of buying a 2.6l, 2001 estate with a towbar, (I tow a caravan a few times a year), and would appreciate comments about advisability. I'm not over concerned about fuel costs as I drive economically most of the time but am wondering how DIY maintenance and servicing compare to other engines, both from cost and difficulty points of view. A very useful post in 2006 on the subject of engines doesn't mention the 2.6, and I wonder whether there is a special (or sinister) reason for this.
I am a user of Haynes manuals for all their shortcomings but can't find one to cover the 2.6 specifically. Does anyone know of a competent publication covering it, please?
Many thanks,
Bill.
I'm thinking of buying a 2.6l, 2001 estate with a towbar, (I tow a caravan a few times a year), and would appreciate comments about advisability. I'm not over concerned about fuel costs as I drive economically most of the time but am wondering how DIY maintenance and servicing compare to other engines, both from cost and difficulty points of view. A very useful post in 2006 on the subject of engines doesn't mention the 2.6, and I wonder whether there is a special (or sinister) reason for this.
I am a user of Haynes manuals for all their shortcomings but can't find one to cover the 2.6 specifically. Does anyone know of a competent publication covering it, please?
Many thanks,
Bill.
56
Newbie Welcome Area / Really new newbie
« on: 16 October 2007, 00:04:25 »
Hello everybody!
This is my first excursion into any sort of forum. Better late than never. Hope I can find my way around.
I've owned a 1998 Omega 2.0l Tourer estate for 3+ years, having progressed from a Carlton, and thought I ought to find out more about the enthusiasm which other people also have for them. Even at the age of 68 I try to keep it out of the hands of 'professionals' whenever possible and look forward to learning a lot from this club. (Hope that doesn't sound too cynical).
Cheers,
Bill.
This is my first excursion into any sort of forum. Better late than never. Hope I can find my way around.
I've owned a 1998 Omega 2.0l Tourer estate for 3+ years, having progressed from a Carlton, and thought I ought to find out more about the enthusiasm which other people also have for them. Even at the age of 68 I try to keep it out of the hands of 'professionals' whenever possible and look forward to learning a lot from this club. (Hope that doesn't sound too cynical).
Cheers,
Bill.
57
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Wanted. Facelift mudflaps.
« on: 15 February 2010, 19:37:35 »
I'm not sure if they are different between pre-, mini-, or full facelift, but if anyone has two rears in good condition which will fit a facelift Estate I'd be pleased to hear from them.
Cheers,
Bill.
Cheers,
Bill.
58
General Car Chat / LPG. Valve lubrication.
« on: 17 March 2011, 15:27:48 »
The kit on my recently acquired 3.2l Y reg. Elite saloon includes a Flashlube valve lube system but the fluid container is empty.
Having read the coy's website details it strikes me that this is really no different from the better known Redex additive, although being delivered to the engine 'automatically' it is more convenient perhaps.
Does the 2001 3.2l engine need this additional lubrication or was it pushed to allay perceived fears when lead free petrol was first introduced.
According to the website, alternative fluids would foul the fine filter in the supply bottle and may not mix or vaporise properly in the air/fuel stream. Fact or fiction?
Does anyone think Redex would do the job satisfactorily if it was thought advisable (or at least harmless) to use additional lubrication?
Cheers,
Bill.
Having read the coy's website details it strikes me that this is really no different from the better known Redex additive, although being delivered to the engine 'automatically' it is more convenient perhaps.
Does the 2001 3.2l engine need this additional lubrication or was it pushed to allay perceived fears when lead free petrol was first introduced.
According to the website, alternative fluids would foul the fine filter in the supply bottle and may not mix or vaporise properly in the air/fuel stream. Fact or fiction?
Does anyone think Redex would do the job satisfactorily if it was thought advisable (or at least harmless) to use additional lubrication?
Cheers,
Bill.
59
General Car Chat / Renault Laguna 1.6l
« on: 24 December 2010, 12:22:15 »
One of my step grand-daughters who lives an hour away from us has an X reg. Renault Laguna with I believe a 1.6l petrol engine.
On starting yesterday, it fired up fine but then cut out completely, and repeated this each time she tried. I don't know enough to pinpoint the problem on the phone apart from suggesting fuel starvation or lack of ignition spark, but it seems a local garage told her on the phone that it was the immobiliser misbehaving.
I don't know whether the immobiliser allows startup before disabling the car. Can anyone suggest a cause or whether this is likely to be an honest appraisal?
Cheers,
Bill.
On starting yesterday, it fired up fine but then cut out completely, and repeated this each time she tried. I don't know enough to pinpoint the problem on the phone apart from suggesting fuel starvation or lack of ignition spark, but it seems a local garage told her on the phone that it was the immobiliser misbehaving.
I don't know whether the immobiliser allows startup before disabling the car. Can anyone suggest a cause or whether this is likely to be an honest appraisal?
Cheers,
Bill.
60
General Car Chat / Halfords trade card.
« on: 08 November 2010, 18:24:27 »
I recently blagged a trade card from the local store manager and bought a couple of items with a 25% discount which was nice.
Today I bought Halfords own Twin front wiper blade sets for the Omega estate and for the Combo van.
Set 28 £18.49 retail. Discounted to £7.90.
Set 51 £15.49 retail. Discounted to £4.24.
Saving £21.84. 35%.
Not bad.
Don't yet know if they're any good, nor did I compare trade club prices, but I'm quite pleased with that saving.
Today I bought Halfords own Twin front wiper blade sets for the Omega estate and for the Combo van.
Set 28 £18.49 retail. Discounted to £7.90.
Set 51 £15.49 retail. Discounted to £4.24.
Saving £21.84. 35%.
Not bad.
Don't yet know if they're any good, nor did I compare trade club prices, but I'm quite pleased with that saving.