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Author Topic: P38 Range Rover advice  (Read 4164 times)

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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #15 on: 02 January 2014, 08:12:03 »

And I bet I could prove the pair of you wrong, there will be at least one cylinder down on power by about 30%....and cam timing will be out.

Its an inherent design fault with them on the cams, followers and chain drive.

As they are an 8 they mask the issues very well ut they will be far from thier best (not that they ever were brilliant)
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omega3000

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #16 on: 02 January 2014, 15:50:09 »

And I bet I could prove the pair of you wrong, there will be at least one cylinder down on power by about 30%....and cam timing will be out.

Its an inherent design fault with them on the cams, followers and chain drive.

As they are an 8 they mask the issues very well ut they will be far from thier best (not that they ever were brilliant)

Would that even be noticeable on 8 pot  :-\
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Nick W

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #17 on: 02 January 2014, 16:06:11 »

Rovers are good at hiding it. Worn cam lobes on the rear cylinders is always a good bet. And is a good excuse for a performance cam.
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #18 on: 02 January 2014, 16:25:20 »

Worn lobes and dished followers plus a wedge of slack in the timing chain, the only real plus of the 4.0/4.6 is the removal of the usuless extra four head bolts on the outer edges that caused the headgaskets to blow into the valley (but just to compensate for this improvement, Rover fitted composite gaskets instead of the metal ones used on the earlier units) and some lightweight cross bolts on the crank.

The old Buick 215 needs 3K oil changes realy (the only real change to the oil setup on the later engines is a crank driven oil pump rather than the skew gear setup driven off the base of the distributor)
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ajsphead

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #19 on: 03 January 2014, 08:36:05 »

ABS accumulator pumps need checking too. If it buzzes every time you use the brakes then it'll need replacing. I've also just remembered the exhaust manifold heatshields. I exhausted every swear word known to man trying to get them off, and just about every tool known to man as well. I'm sure that they were fixed before the engines were dropped in and an angle grinder and various pry bars were the only way they could be made to come out. Truly the most stupid bolt pattern I have, and probably will ever meet.
Check the heated screens too. one side or the other probably won't work. Warped dash tops, worn driver's seat bolsters and floppy door handles too. Cautious people never remove the oil filter while the sump is drained. You might get away with it or you might have no oil pick up and have to pack the pump with vaseline to get it to draw again.

My mates P38 was a dog even though it looked straight.
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aaronjb

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #20 on: 03 January 2014, 12:07:22 »

This is a dangerous thread .. it got me looking at Range Rovers and then latterly Defenders on fleabay.. ;D
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05omegav6

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #21 on: 03 January 2014, 12:45:03 »

This is a dangerous thread .. it got me looking at Range Rovers and then latterly Defenders on fleabay.. ;D
At which point I hope you realised that actually the Omega isn't quite as ruinous to run as you first thought ;D
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #22 on: 03 January 2014, 12:47:16 »

This is a dangerous thread .. it got me looking at Range Rovers and then latterly Defenders on fleabay.. ;D


Aaaaaggggghhhhhhhh.......... ::)
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05omegav6

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #23 on: 03 January 2014, 12:49:34 »

This is a dangerous thread .. it got me looking at Range Rovers and then latterly Defenders on fleabay.. ;D


Aaaaaggggghhhhhhhh.......... ::)
DGMS by any chance ;D
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #24 on: 03 January 2014, 12:52:33 »

Land Rovers (Defenders and Series) are the constant thorn in my side, I seem to be FOREVER fixing the bloody things be it welding, changing engines, water pumps, cylinder head gaskets, exhausts, bloody brake cylinders, brake pipes, the wiring (oh the bloody wiring), fitting PAS, titting about with injector pumps and seals yada yada yada.
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05omegav6

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #25 on: 03 January 2014, 13:31:37 »

Really easy to work on (repeatedly) then ;D
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #26 on: 03 January 2014, 13:45:02 »

Really easy to work on (repeatedly) then ;D

You would think that wouldn't you but they rarely are, everything is just 'to far away' to be able to comfortably get at it.
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05omegav6

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #27 on: 03 January 2014, 13:46:48 »

At least they don't need a jack to drain the oil :-\
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #28 on: 03 January 2014, 14:22:28 »

At least they don't need a jack to drain the oil :-\

Nope, your not selling them to me Al  ;D
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tunnie

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Re: P38 Range Rover advice
« Reply #29 on: 03 January 2014, 14:23:55 »

I don't need a jack to change oil on my 2.2 Omega  :P
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