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31

General Car Chat / Oil Cooler Ideas

« on: 06 December 2022, 13:43:28 »

I'll post about the project itself in a different thread - but, recently, I acquired a V6 Omega having bought it blind - and it needs an Oil Cooler (Brown goo in the coolant). Thankfully, it's been caught very early, so nothing is particularly gummed up - but, it has failed nonetheless.

So I am considering my options for replacement.

1) New oil cooler.

Cost of between £350 and £400. Ouch. Don't really want to - it's a project car afterall and I don't want to throw loads of money at it.

2) Used Oil cooler.

Chap on the Omega Facebook page sold me used cooler for a tenner, which looks clean and I've no reason to believe it's faulty, he seems trustworthy enough. But something doesn't sit right about fitting a used cooler.

3) External cooler

- Fit an external cooler behind the bumper and run oil pipes to it. Cost effective at under £100, but I share concerns others have that it may result in the oil becoming too cold, and lose efficiency / prolong warmup times, which is never great.


4) No cooler (bypass it)

Someone suggested this on the parts thread. I am not sure what I think of this personally, don't think I like the idea, but throwing it out to the floor as a possible option.

5) Possible brainwave, or terrible idea (You tell me)

I have a new radiator for this car in the shed (Eg, main coolant radiator). This radiator has got a built in oil - cooler which was primarily designed to be an ATF cooler for older models, however, I don't need to use it, because my Autobox has the later, external cooler.

So, could I essentially just route the engine oil through this cooler which is built into the radiator? The negative is it would need a longer pipe run, although, I wonder if I could come out from the front of the "V" and therefore not have to extend it for too long.

This also would keep SOME originality, in as much as, it's a water/oil based heat exchanger, so should function in a similar way to the factory cooler inside the engine and not cause overcooling.

It's also a nearly-FREE solution, which has much appeal, and is a "new" oil cooler, albeit located elsewhere.

I might be talking rubbish, but I'm interested in thoughts around this. I did worry it wouldn't be robust enough, but if it can take hot ATF, surely it would be OK with engine oil?

Thoughts Please

32

General Car Chat / Astra J Colour Code

« on: 25 October 2022, 13:55:24 »

Hi Folks

Can anyone please give me the colour code for Astra J - BD60 VRW. A relative has had a mirror smashed off and I’m trying to source a replacement.

They can’t find me a colour code on the car anywhere.

If anyone has the ability to look it up from the index (providing you can do so legitimately of course and it doesn’t break any rules) I’d be most grateful.

Cheers
James

33

Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Also Wanted: LPG Interface Lead

« on: 12 October 2022, 12:52:31 »

As per title, please Anyone got one gathering dust in exchange for a couple of beer tokens?

34

Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / WANTED: V6 oil cooler

« on: 10 October 2022, 08:41:33 »

I can’t find any at all online. It seems that parts for these cars are becoming scarce.

Does anyone have a new V6 oil cooler they would like to sell please? Thanks

35

Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / WANTED: V6 Alternator

« on: 09 October 2022, 08:39:45 »

Hello everyone,

I am after a reasonably priced, known good Omega V6 alternator, please.

Thanks in advance

36

Omega General Help / TCM software / T2 question

« on: 07 October 2022, 09:10:44 »

Hi Folks,

Hope everyone is well.

Please could I just ask

- what is the latest gearbox software version for a 2002, 2.6

- while I’m asking, were there ever any updates for the engine ECU?

- lastly, assuming an update is available (especially for the TCM) who currently has T2 capability please? I seem to recall the concept of TCM update by posting the ECU was one in discussion but not sure what came of that.

Although it may be nice to grab a coffee and see an old face or two anyway

Many thanks

37

General Car Chat / Car Storage needed near Bucks or Gloucestershire

« on: 08 July 2022, 18:48:35 »

Hi Folks,

Long shot here. In recent months life has dealt me with blow after blow, and the most recent is that earlier this week I have been told I am going to have to move out of the house in which I currently live within a matter of weeks if not sooner. Wherever I move to, is unlikely to have the off road parking / garage I have available at the moment, and I desperately want to rent a small unit / garage / space (ideally undercover) to store my Omega for a few months whilst I sort out more pressing matters.

If anyone is aware of anyone able to offer that, for a reasonable fee, near either Gloucestershire or Buckinghamshire, please drop me a message, I would be very interested to hear about it.

Cheers,
James

38

General Car Chat / Someone please buy this!

« on: 16 June 2022, 08:02:26 »

A steal at £1500 - we ALL must know this car!

https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C1459589

Disclaimer - I’m not affiliated, just saw it online

39

General Car Chat / Migalot's Transmission Repair - Photos

« on: 31 May 2022, 20:20:51 »

I made a start on swapping out Migalot's transmission on his lovely V6 Elite, today - replacing a clapped out AR25 autobox, with the stronger AR35 model used on the 3.0 / 3.2.

Obviously, safety first, so vehicle supported using 2 x three tonne axle stands:

Really important - the back wheels must be chocked for this job! You will be removing the prop-shaft (and gearbox!) so placing the lever in "P" will do nothing........






Next step - removing both catalytic converters (required for access, to get at / remove the gearbox)

Remember, these cars are 20+ years old now, the bolts are OLD and rusty, especially exhaust bolts, and WILL break if you don't use care!

Don't use WD40, it's useless as a lubricant - use either plus-gas, or, PB Blaster (amazing stuff). Saturate the bolts holding the catalytic converters to the exhaust. Also saturate the downpipe to manifold nuts. Walk away for an hour, come back, saturate some more.



Believe it or not, it took me a couple of hours to get all four bolts undone, which hold the cats to the mid-sections. This was with repeated spraying, and gently working them back and forth. I managed to get three out of four out intact, and only broke one, which I will try and extract tomorrow (failing that, I'll drill and rethread it). I was quite pleased to get three - usually, they all break!





Next step was to remove the manifold to downpipe nuts. This is where I ran into the first real concern - they would not budge for love nor money, despite using a 6 sided, correct socket. I think a ham-fisted mechanic has been in there before, because the nuts were somewhat rounded, and eventually, the socket was just spinning.

Thankfully, my old friend, the IWRIN socket set, came to the rescue. These sockets have saved my bacon on more occasions that I care to remember, and are worth their weight in gold. Using these - I managed to get all four off. It made me remember how awkward the nuts are to get at on the DBW engine, due to the pre-cats. Had to use a selection of bars/adapters, but got there in the end:















Anyway, now off with the prop-shaft. The bolts fell in a great position, meaning I could get them all with a short stubby spanner on the bolt head, and a ratchet on the nuts:






Off with the multiplug, which feeds the shift solenoids. Also removing the selector switch plug, and the gear linkage:



We now remove all of the bellhousing bolts APART From one big 19mm bolt on each side, to hold it in my now. There are four 13mm bolts at the bottom, and various ones around the housing, including at the top. I forgot how much of a contortionist you have to be, to get the very top ones!







For the very topmost one, I find that an extension bar is too long, but a socket on the ratchet doesn't fit - so, I made a small extension bar, using two adaptors:



Remove the front drip-tray, to allow access to the crank pulley bolt (this will become clear in a moment).



There is a bung between the engine block and the back of the flex-plate (flywheel). Laying on your back, turn the engine (only ever clockwise!) until you see the first 15mm bolt appear, through this aperture. Undo and remove it. Slowly turn the engine, until the next one appears - and remove it. So on and so forth, until you've got all six. If you go too far, DON'T turn the engine backwards like some shady garages do - keep going clockwise, until it comes around again.



Once you've undone these six bolts, the torque-converter comes away with the gearbox as one unit. This is REALLY important, because leaving the TC bolted to the flywheel will ruin the oil seal of the TC nose, and cause a significant ATF leak.

40

General Car Chat / Astra J held to Ransom by Eden Vauxhall over failed MOT

« on: 21 March 2022, 06:11:43 »

I was asked by SWMBO to look over her 2011 Astra J, prior to it's MOT this weekend.

We bought it directly from Eden Vauxhall 3 years ago. Paid over the odds - around £6,000 - but, it had one owner, 30k miles, etc, and was a good trouble free option. As part of the deal, it came with a "Lifetime Free MOT" at Eden dealerships. Of course, given my experience (and that of others) on here, I have always been highly suspicious of this, although it's not been an issue (until now). It's well known that main dealerships just do not apply discretion fairly, compared to other garages.

Anyhow, I had a look at the car, and other than a bulb which we changed, could not see anything wrong, other than the front tyres were a bit low on tread (although evenly worn). I measured them across the whole tyre, and although borderline - they are all 1.8+mm across the tread. So I say to her "you'll get an advisory on the tyres, but she should go through otherwise. Take it for the MOT and we'll get some tyres in the week".

To cut a long story short - they called her after the MOT. "Your car has failed, on the front tyres being under 1.6mm, and corrosion to a rear coil spring". She says to them "no worries, we'll come and pick it up, do the repairs, and bring it back for a retest".

"Sorry madam, we can't let you do that. The tyres are a "dangerous" MOT failure. The car is illegal to drive, so we are unable to release it to you until we change the tyres".

What an absolute bunch of lying, scheming sharks. Last time I checked, construction and use regulations were enforced on the roads by the police, not by car dealerships. Who are they to keep our vehicle?

Don't get me wrong - if there were a truly dangerous failure, like a broken wishbone, I'd get it, but.... a borderline tyre, which isn't even illegal anyway?

We are going to speak to them today, but if they want to continue to play silly beggars, I'm going to hire a car trailer from our local hire place (£35) and drag it away behind the Range Rover, and not give them the business over the principle!

I have found rear springs for just under £40 a corner, and they look remarkably easy to fit on this model... I'm guessing even for just two springs and two tyres, the stealership would absolutely spank us in the pocket?

Appreciate any views

41

General Discussion Area / "Sealed for life" Washing Machine Bearings

« on: 08 March 2022, 17:53:18 »

Hi Folks, hope everyone is well. I'd like to ask a question of any home-appliance DIY'ers please.

My washing machine - it's a Zanussi, and is 9 years old. It started making a horrific noise on spin, and it became clear the bearings were knackered.

So, I watched a video online about how to remove the tub from the machine, split it, and get to / change the bearings. It looked simple enough, so I thought I'd have a go. I contacted a couple of parts places, to buy the bearings and seal, and was told "you can't repair that machine, sealed for life mate".

Being me, I thought (just like with "sealed for life" autoboxes), there must be a way to get to, and service the parts. I took the machine apart, and removed the tub. This is a plastic tub and the two halves have been glued / welded together, preventing easy separation (and therefore access to the bearings). So, I took a fine reciprocating saw, and slowly worked all around the seam. It has separated nicely, and I have found a good way to seal it using Vauxhall grey sealant, and a combination of nuts, bolts, and some "mezz clamps" around the flanges.

I have removed the bearings, and they are knackered.

The problem I have found, however, is that they seem to be a totally non-standard size! Measuring them, they are totally different dimensions to any other washing machine bearings out there. I also can't seem to find the bearings from a generic bearing supplier!

If anyone can help me on where to obtain some bearings, I'd be most grateful.

The dimensions  are

Front bearing - 60mm external diameter, 26mm internal

Rear bearing - 50mm external diameter, 26mm internal.

I cannot find any bearings, anywhere, with these dimensions!

I have no doubt this, alongside the "sealed for life" tub, is simply a ploy from the manufacturer, to make me go and buy a new £400 machine, rather than repair my otherwise perfectly good washing machine for the sake of a beer token and a couple of hours work! As well as not wanting to shell out if I don't have to - I like to fix things - especially after I'm told they can't be fixed!

Seems criminal they can get away with it. So much for being "environmentally friendly" 

If anyone knows where I can obtain such bearings, I'd be extremely grateful

42

Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Wanted: LPG Tank

« on: 08 February 2022, 16:22:50 »

I am after a cylinder LPG tank ideally with frame and straps but not essential. 4 hole tank only please. Size / dimensions unimportant but bigger the better. Age doesn’t matter. This is an additional tank to increase range

43

General Car Chat / More Insurance Nonsense

« on: 27 September 2021, 21:16:30 »

I'm seeking the opinions of other fellow motorists here please 
 
In June, I had a minor car accident in the Range Rover. In short, 10am on a Sunday - roads were quiet. I was travelling in a National Speed Limit (60) on an A road - doing 60. A Blue Nissan 4x4 was coming the other way, also doing around 60. As we drew very close, without any warning, the Nissan swerved onto my side of the road. I had two choices - a head on crash, or, dump my old truck up the verge and avoid it. There were no other options or time to do anything else, and I didn't want to die, so I chose option 2.

I came off very well. The extent of the damage is a trashed Alloy wheel and tyre, plus minor cosmetics. The other driver made a hasty exit, and did not stop / exchange details. It scared the life out of me, given my previous head-on in 2016, and the damage another could do to me with my existing injuries.

I got home, and reviewed my front facing Dash-cam. It showed the incident with the other driver, a blonde female, very clearly at fault for it. I looked, and saw it had captured her index plate. So I decided to call my insurance company, because A) I am obliged to tell them in any case, and B) I thought it's so clearly not my fault, and with the footage, we will clearly get an admission of liability, and not affect my no-claims.

So I call my insurer, and tell them exactly what happened.

"Sorry, sir, because your vehicles didn't make contact, and YOU have hit roadside furniture, this will be a fault claim against YOUR policy, if you want your car fixed". I tried to explain that she caused it, until I was blue in the face, and offered to send in the footage, but they would not have it, or deal with the insurers for the woman. They said whatever happened, I now had a "strike" against me, because "I left the road and she didn't" - even though I was not wanting to claim against my own policy.

So I wondered what to do next. I used the MIB and DVLA website, and got details of the woman's identity and who her insurers were and her policy details. I contacted her insurers directly, explained what happened, and said I had footage. They said exactly the same as my insurer - *I* hit something, and their client didn't - so I was at fault, and should "claim off my own policy".

Still thinking this was complete injustice, I then did what I didn't really want to, and contacted the police. I reported the incident via their report form online, and sent them the footage.

They took an account from me, and interviewed the woman. A few days later the investigating officer contaced me, and said the other driver made full admissions to driiving without due care, not stopping, and was very sorry. She said she "lost control of her car" because "her son was kicking off". She was dealt with by the police (at a low level - education) for the offence of careless driving, as a result of the incident.

Based on this outcome, I remained adamant I was not at fault. So I started the small claims court process, against the woman directly. I spent hours writing a lengthy witness statement, providing evidence of the damage, estimates for repair, etc  (Cost of wheel and tyre). I filed my case. Within days, her insurers were repeatedly trying to contact me, and could not offer payment for my damages quickly enough. They wanted bank details, and paid me within days.

I have tried to again speak to my insurers, and they literally don't want to know. Despite the woman being done for careless driving, and me making a full recovery from the other insurers (who in a letter, say, "we accept full negligence for the incident") - they remain adamant I must have a "strike" against me, which will affect my premiums.

In my position, if you were me, how would you deal with my insurers? Yes I could just write it off, as it won't affect my premiums that much, but it's a total injustice!

I am thinking, either, Financial Ombudsman, or even small claims court against them too, for the time I had to spend doing their job, fighting my own case, when they refused to even watch the footage or consider the facts / approach the other side for their account - and of course the damage to my insurance reputation, caused by the unjust "strike". I had to spend hours clearing my name over this, and I am properly pissed off with my insurers!

44

General Car Chat / Farewell folks, all the best, it's been a blast

« on: 16 April 2021, 20:42:05 »

I was with this forum from the very beginning, and have lost count of how many years I've been here. I think I first came aged around 22, I am not sure where that time has gone, but I am now only 3 years away from being 40.

I have had some great times, especially back in the day, I genuinely could not remember how many omegas I have fixed for folk, including cambelts, must be in the dozens, usually for no charge. There was then the crazy projects I have taken on - and I don't regret any of it.

Sadly, though, all good things must come to an end, and in light of getting older, my priorities are likely to become different soon, and it doesn't make sense to keep two cars. Out of the Rangie, and the Omega, sadly the Omega is the non-practical one, it can't carry the dog, etc. From a time perspective, I doubt I will now ever get to own / care for another one. It feels like the end of an Era that I've listed it for sale.

I thought I'd close with a few memories of the times gone by



This particular omega, I drove to Spain! And did a tour all around Northern Spain in it. It was a DTi, and a bloody great car.



Here was an auto - to - manual conversion I did on my driveway

45

Cars for Sale & wanted / Facelift 2003 2.6 V6 Elite Saloon - MV03 NXR

« on: 16 April 2021, 19:35:50 »

Offered reluctantly for sale is my beloved, high-mileage but religiously serviced Vauxhall Omega Elite.

You all know what an ELITE is by now, so I won't blab on and list the features, and will cut to the chase.

Good points

1) 4 new tyres, about 900 miles ago - tyres on this car always wear evenly.
2) Cambelt kit, aux belt and and water pump done 1,000 miles ago
3) Rocker cover gaskets, crank case breathers, and spark plugs, also done 1,000 miles ago at the same time, so you have 39,000 miles before the car will need another cambelt. Installed correctly by me using correct tools and torque wrench.
4) BOSE sound system, is just awesome!
5) I polished the headlights - they have come up really well.

In summary, a great, reliable, comfortable and rapid car, with 9 months MOT (no advisories - I addressed them all), with very recent cambelt kit, brand new tyres, spark plugs, and wanting for nothing.

I will say from the outset this is a high mileage car (almost 230k!) but don't let this put you off, because it is mechanically excellent and has been so well cared for.

I have owned this Omega Elite (MV03 NXR) since early 2017, so a period of around four years. Prior to that, it was owned by a member of the forum, and I think even prior to that, was in the hands of an earlier forum member! I am very competent with servicing and maintaining V6 Omegas in particular, having learnt these skills through years of being in enthusiast networks, and acquired all of the specialist tools. I have meticulously maintained and serviced this car for a couple of the previous enthusiast owners, including cambelts and oil changes. The reason I am telling you this, is because although there is no formal service history, this particular car can be vouched for within the forum to show it's been cared for over a long period of time.

Mechanically, I would describe the condition of this Omega as excellent, for a 2003 car. The engine always starts, without any smoke, and burbles into life without any fuss. It's smooth and powerful and the V6 sounds lovely, especially with the stainless exhaust. Note, this is a tasteful stainless system, which was installed at the cost of hundreds of pounds - not some awful, "chavvy" setup from somewhere like Halfords! I would get in this Omega and drive it to Russia tomorrow, without doing anything other than putting fuel in the tank.

The usual forum  advice "budget for a full suspension overhaul" does not apply here. The handling and suspension is spot on, the ride is firm but comfortable, cornering and braking are fine. The front wishbones were poly-bushed before I owned the car, meaning they will essentially now last forever.

The car does not leak or use any coolant. It does, being honest, seep a TINY amount of oil, but it never requires topping up between the (3,000 mile) or six monthly oil and filter changes I have always done.

Why am I getting rid?

Despite assurances from the MOT man about how good it is underneath, there are some areas on the car that need some cosmetic attention. This is not my strong area, and other than dabbing on some black hammerite (which you'll see I've done to slow it down) I am not good with bodywork. I don't use the car much at all, it's not my daily driver, but my toy. See the MOT history which will confirm this. With the little use, I am worried it may deteriorate more.

This Omega needs someone with the time to give her some TLC and cosmetically restore the rear arches. There are also some rust bubbles forming around the top of the windscreen that need attention, and a couple on the OSF rear door towards the bottom. In addition to this, there is an area where the paint has flaked off the front bumper, after a transit van kindly kissed my bumper in a car park, and the laquer is peeling on the rear spoiler. The car does look good after a polish, but it also has marks consistent with being 18 years old.

Please look at the pictures, and come and see the car for yourself, to form your own judgement. Yes, I shamelessly took the pictures straight after washing it! That said, it does come up well with a polish.

Other Faults

During the winter months, very intermittently, on some journeys the speedo would flicker and not work properly. I wonder if it was the damp time of year, because it's genuinely not done it for a few weeks - but it would be sods law it would play up for the new owner, so it must be mentioned. The in car phone (which looks like it's from the 1980s) doesn't work anymore, I think it needs a new battery.