Topic: Knocking Sound from Clutch (Read 2341 times)

Vulpine · « **on:** 09 March 2010, 21:31:11 »

Hi All
Had my Omega now 5 years and it has always had this knocking sound from the clutch. Only does it at idle. Gets louder with clutch pedal down. Any ideas what it could be? Doesn't seem to get worse as the years pass or affect the driving of the car.
I have some ideas what it might be but will let you suggest first.

thanks
Jon

Marks DTM Calib · « **Reply #1 on:** 09 March 2010, 21:38:21 »

Dual Mass Flywheel at a guess

Omegatoy · « **Reply #2 on:** 09 March 2010, 21:47:09 »

mdtm is correct!! same reason i had to change mine!!!

Vulpine · « **Reply #3 on:** 10 March 2010, 07:04:18 »

ah OK. I feared that answer.
Is it expensive/difficult to replace?

Welung666 · « **Reply #4 on:** 10 March 2010, 07:50:48 »

Buypartsbuy have about the best price I've found for a DMF, easy enough job if you're confident with a set of spanners. I'd recommend fitting a new clutch kit at the same time though

Vulpine · « **Reply #5 on:** 14 August 2010, 00:16:42 »

OK clutch now slipping so I need to replacve it and the DMF. Any more leads or part numbers?
Any pics or guides? Are the bell housing bolts ok to get to?
please help....
Jon

Welung666 · « **Reply #6 on:** 14 August 2010, 05:28:05 »

Fairly easy on the tractors, shame your not closer as I've got clutch changes down to a fine art now!

Vulpine · « **Reply #7 on:** 14 August 2010, 09:26:20 »

lol i was driving back from Wales yesterday, could of popped in!

Vulpine · « **Reply #8 on:** 14 August 2010, 16:47:36 »

ok looking at http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/clutch-parts-buy.php on part number 624165209 it talks about: If Std bearing fitted use 624 1652 00. Anyone know what this means? Would i have standard bearing (release bearing i presume)?
624165233 is a "pro" kit. What's the difference?
thanks

Welung666 · « **Reply #9 on:** 14 August 2010, 17:29:37 »

You won't have the standard bearing, the release bearing is part of the slave cylinder and will set you back £100 on it's own. When my clutch went I assumed it was the DMF until I took the old pressure plate off and it had seperated into 2 pieces. DMF was fine but fitted the new one as I'd got it anyway. If it is your DMF then I've got my old one here.

Vulpine · « **Reply #10 on:** 14 August 2010, 17:46:07 »

ah sound like i need to order a clutch kit from someone and then see what i find when i take her all apart.

Vulpine · « **Reply #11 on:** 15 August 2010, 09:38:34 »

so would the process go something like this?
1) jack up v high and support car
2) remove engine shield
3) disconnect prop
4) disconnect gear linkage (how?)
5) remove any wiring, hydraulics etc
6) support gearbox
7) undo bell housing bolts

remove gearbox mount
9) drop gearbox
10) remove clutch housing and plate
11) remove flywheel

missed any thing? is any step a real git requiring special tools or magical powers?

Welung666 · « **Reply #12 on:** 15 August 2010, 11:04:12 »

Quote

so would the process go something like this?
1) jack up v high and support car
2) remove engine shield
3) disconnect prop
4) disconnect gear linkage (how?)
5) remove any wiring, hydraulics etc
6) support gearbox
7) undo bell housing bolts
remove gearbox mount
9) drop gearbox
10) remove clutch housing and plate
11) remove flywheel

missed any thing? is any step a real git requiring special tools or magical powers?

1) I cheat and use a kerb... reverse 3 or 4 foot accross a pavement then drive forwards up a set of ramps. Gets the car high enough and fairly level (ideal for autobox fluid checks too

)

4) Pop the square rubber boot off the bottom of the stick and you'll see a round metal pin with a spring clip each end. Just take off 1 clip and slide the pin out. EDIT TO ADD: take the 2 horizontal 10mm bolts out of the end of the selector while you're there, they are easily missed.

5) Reverse switch plug, lambda wires are just clipped on so pop the metal clip off. Hydraulics disconnect from the clutch master cylinder on the bulkhead, small bladed screwdriver to pull the small metal retaining clip out but careful you don't lose it! Also a hose clip on the bulkhead holding the pipe firm.

6.5) Remove starter motor, so battery off before you start and leave it hanging on the wires.

The rest is pretty much right

tidla · « **Reply #13 on:** 15 August 2010, 11:30:43 »

Quote

Quote
so would the process go something like this?
1) jack up v high and support car
2) remove engine shield
3) disconnect prop
4) disconnect gear linkage (how?)
5) remove any wiring, hydraulics etc
6) support gearbox
7) undo bell housing bolts
remove gearbox mount
9) drop gearbox
10) remove clutch housing and plate
11) remove flywheel

missed any thing? is any step a real git requiring special tools or magical powers?

1) I cheat and use a kerb... reverse 3 or 4 foot accross a pavement then drive forwards up a set of ramps. Gets the car high enough and fairly level (ideal for autobox fluid checks too )

4) Pop the square rubber boot off the bottom of the stick and you'll see a round metal pin with a spring clip each end. Just take off 1 clip and slide the pin out. EDIT TO ADD: take the 2 horizontal 10mm bolts out of the end of the selector while you're there, they are easily missed.

5) Reverse switch plug, lambda wires are just clipped on so pop the metal clip off. Hydraulics disconnect from the clutch master cylinder on the bulkhead, small bladed screwdriver to pull the small metal retaining clip out but careful you don't lose it! Also a hose clip on the bulkhead holding the pipe firm.

6.5) Remove starter motor, so battery off before you start and leave it hanging on the wires.

The rest is pretty much right

as there is a fair amount of jiggling around, if you have the kit put the vehicle on two sets of opposing ramps so its level and very secure.

£30 gearbox cradle is safe investment.

Vulpine · « **Reply #14 on:** 15 August 2010, 12:56:04 »

nice one, sounds ok
i'll try to write a point by point with pics when i do it all.
what does a gearbox cradle look like?

Omegatoy · « **Reply #15 on:** 15 August 2010, 19:29:37 »

the box isnt actualy that heavy? i lift mine in and out on me own
never had a problem, worst job is the top nut and bolt on the starter motor!!! bitch to get to to put it back in and do it up,
I use super glue gel and glue the nut to the starter motor in the correct place, then when you under you csn gently put the bolt in and do it up!!

tidla · « **Reply #16 on:** 15 August 2010, 19:42:19 »

depends how strong you are. soon get tired on your own if it dont go in first time.

(i use this for 4x4 gearboxes)

Vulpine · « **Reply #17 on:** 27 August 2010, 18:43:10 »

hi
i am typing this from the boot of the omega!
Just bout done all but undo gearbox bolts and clutch pipe:

Quote

4) Hydraulics disconnect from the clutch master cylinder on the bulkhead, small bladed screwdriver to pull the small metal retaining clip out but careful you don't lose it! Also a hose clip on the bulkhead holding the pipe firm.

How does one disconnect pipe from this 'hoseclip'?
Don't want to force it and space is tight.

BTW please ask if there are any pics required etc whilst i am under here.

Welung666 · « **Reply #18 on:** 27 August 2010, 22:22:14 »

From the ribbed part go down underneath and feel for the small step in it. Get a finger nail in the step down and pull gently and it'll pop

Have you managed to get the small clip out of the master cylinder yet?

Vulpine · « **Reply #19 on:** 27 August 2010, 22:24:43 »

thanks for that. will do in the morning.
No, can see that small clip. It looks like it will disappear on removal!!!

Welung666 · « **Reply #20 on:** 27 August 2010, 22:29:35 »

Quote

thanks for that. will do in the morning.
No, can see that small clip. It looks like it will disappear on removal!!!

Easiest way I've found is to get a sewing needle in a pair of needle nose pliers from the eye end. Heat over a gas ring on the stove and bend it with another pair of pliers to about 30º past 90º so it's sort of 'j' shape. Then magnatise it using an old speaker or magnet. Use the needle nose pliers to hold it and 'hook' the clip out

it will also then stick to the inside of your toolbax (assuming it's metal) for then next time you change your clutch (or someone elses)

Vulpine · « **Reply #21 on:** 28 August 2010, 09:53:15 »

well magnetised a very small screwdriver, got the little out but dropped it. Can't find it!!! Stupid design!!! Stupid me!!!! And yes it has totally disappeared. grrrrrrrrr

Psychoca · « **Reply #22 on:** 28 August 2010, 10:16:43 »

Quote

well magnetised a very small screwdriver, got the little out but dropped it. Can't find it!!! Stupid design!!! Stupid me!!!! And yes it has totally disappeared. grrrrrrrrr

Mine pinged away when I was trying to put it back in, but, I iirc the pipe I took mine off was straight across the back of the engine... I was able to clamp it closed with a length of wire, which has held it suitable since... It is a clip I know I need to replace at some time though... From what I can make out though, you will only get a replacement from a scrapyard (my Vx dealer told me they couldn't get me a replacement, although I didn't investigate further at the time)...

Welung666 · « **Reply #23 on:** 28 August 2010, 10:18:38 »

Quote

well magnetised a very small screwdriver, got the little out but dropped it. Can't find it!!! Stupid design!!! Stupid me!!!! And yes it has totally disappeared. grrrrrrrrr

GUTTED!!!

Try one of the breakers cutting up a manual. As Psy says Vx don't do them

Vulpine · « **Reply #24 on:** 28 August 2010, 14:26:57 »

hi
ok she going back together now
found clip behind heatshield!!! yay
knocking sound was the clutch housing had come apart - pics later. done damage to fly wheel so swapped that too
more laters.....

Welung666 · « **Reply #25 on:** 28 August 2010, 15:14:05 »

Excellent news on the clip

I don't know why but 99% of the clutches I do now are due to the pressure plate dismantling itself! Glad you're beating it

Vulpine · « **Reply #26 on:** 28 August 2010, 17:47:04 »

All done yay!!

3 good results of todays work:
1) No knocking sounds!!!

but expected
2) Fault code 19 gone!!!

but not expected. Just cleaned all the iron filings of the end of the sensor
3) Really light clutch pedal now. Amazing

So just the faulty injector to sort out now. see the other thread http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1282420519

BTW the clip is made from 1.2mm wire incase someone needs to make one up in the future. And my crank sensor had 0.42mm air gap.

Welung666 · « **Reply #27 on:** 28 August 2010, 17:48:26 »

Quote

All done yay!!

3 good results of todays work:
1) No knocking sounds!!! but expected
2) Fault code 19 gone!!! but not expected. Just cleaned all the iron filings of the end of the sensor
3) Really light clutch pedal now. Amazing

So just the faulty injector to sort out now. see the other thread http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1282420519

BTW the clip is made from 1.2mm wire incase someone needs to make one up in the future. And my crank sensor had 0.42mm air gap.

Brilliant

Not so bad a job really was it?

Vulpine · « **Reply #28 on:** 28 August 2010, 18:47:19 »

Wasnt too bad, the problem i have is that I am too old!!
So here is the cause:

These bits should be one bit!!

Welung666 · « **Reply #29 on:** 28 August 2010, 19:05:53 »

Yep, all too common now, I've recently weighed 5 or 6 in like that.

Vulpine · « **Reply #30 on:** 02 September 2010, 19:49:48 »

Ok with engine code fixed with new injector, the clutch is proving able to put up with the power and is smooth as silk.
Thanks to everyone for their help - it is much appreciated.
Jon

Omegatoy · « **Reply #31 on:** 02 September 2010, 20:22:16 »

nice one mate glad you got it sorted now enjoy!!!

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Author Topic: Knocking Sound from Clutch (Read 2341 times)

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