Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[JamesV6CDX]

Tonight I was driving along a dual carriageway, speedo probably somewhere up by 80. I overtook a car, using sport mode, and then pulled back into lane 1. As I pulled in, I took S mode off.

A few seconds after doing this, the light with the car and the spanner came on. As soon as I pulled away from next roundabout, it was obviously in limp mode, pulling away in top gear. (MUCH slower on the uptake than just the snow button, foot to the floor it makes loads of noise and hardly goes anywhere).

I could change through the gears manually. but when going from 1 to 2 etc there was a delay, and a thud.

I turned off the engine, restarted - light still on, same symptoms.

I then stopped the engine again, removed key, re inserted and restarted. Fault no longer there, and appeared to be starting out in first gear again.

I checked for codes - no codes in the gearbox or engine ECU stored (yes I carry a code reader in the glovebox, it's an Omega!!)

Then, upon pulling away from a standing start, admittedly quite quickly - this all happened so fast I can't explain it properly, but, at about 5,000 rpm, there were a series of THUDS as if the drive was being interrupted... it shook the whole car REALLY badly on each thud (my passenger said it hurt her). I may have imagined this, but as it happened, it felt like the back end swang around quite a lot. (I had exactly the same a few weeks ago, and put it down to a diesel patch, obviously not)

I also feel like the autobox has a bit of a vibration/rumble, when slowing down and coming to a stop...

What could have caused those thuds, and awful violent shaking of the whole car? TC, something inside the box?

Guessing in abscence of codes, check for the pesky thrust washer first?

Anyone got a spare AR35? Or even better, an R28 manual box, do the job properly for once and for all?

[cem_devecioglu]

Tonight I was driving along a dual carriageway, speedo probably somewhere up by 80. I overtook a car, using sport mode, and then pulled back into lane 1. As I pulled in, I took S mode off.

A few seconds after doing this, the light with the car and the spanner came on. As soon as I pulled away from next roundabout, it was obviously in limp mode, pulling away in top gear. (MUCH slower on the uptake than just the snow button, foot to the floor it makes loads of noise and hardly goes anywhere).

I could change through the gears manually. but when going from 1 to 2 etc there was a delay, and a thud.

I turned off the engine, restarted - light still on, same symptoms.

I then stopped the engine again, removed key, re inserted and restarted. Fault no longer there, and appeared to be starting out in first gear again.

I checked for codes - no codes in the gearbox or engine ECU stored (yes I carry a code reader in the glovebox, it's an Omega!!)

Then, upon pulling away from a standing start, admittedly quite quickly - this all happened so fast I can't explain it properly, but, at about 5,000 rpm, there were a series of THUDS as if the drive was being interrupted... it shook the whole car REALLY badly on each thud (my passenger said it hurt her). I may have imagined this, but as it happened, it felt like the back end swang around quite a lot. (I had exactly the same a few weeks ago, and put it down to a diesel patch, obviously not)

I also feel like the autobox has a bit of a vibration/rumble, when slowing down and coming to a stop...

What could have caused those thuds, and awful violent shaking of the whole car? TC, something inside the box?

Guessing in abscence of codes, check for the pesky thrust washer first?

Anyone got a spare AR35? Or even better, an R28 manual box, do the job properly for once and for all?

there is the answer imo

[serek]

Tonight I was driving along a dual carriageway, speedo probably somewhere up by 80. I overtook a car, using sport mode, and then pulled back into lane 1. As I pulled in, I took S mode off.

A few seconds after doing this, the light with the car and the spanner came on. As soon as I pulled away from next roundabout, it was obviously in limp mode, pulling away in top gear. (MUCH slower on the uptake than just the snow button, foot to the floor it makes loads of noise and hardly goes anywhere).

I could change through the gears manually. but when going from 1 to 2 etc there was a delay, and a thud.

I turned off the engine, restarted - light still on, same symptoms.

I then stopped the engine again, removed key, re inserted and restarted. Fault no longer there, and appeared to be starting out in first gear again.

I checked for codes - no codes in the gearbox or engine ECU stored (yes I carry a code reader in the glovebox, it's an Omega!!)

Then, upon pulling away from a standing start, admittedly quite quickly - this all happened so fast I can't explain it properly, but, at about 5,000 rpm, there were a series of THUDS as if the drive was being interrupted... it shook the whole car REALLY badly on each thud (my passenger said it hurt her). I may have imagined this, but as it happened, it felt like the back end swang around quite a lot. (I had exactly the same a few weeks ago, and put it down to a diesel patch, obviously not)

I also feel like the autobox has a bit of a vibration/rumble, when slowing down and coming to a stop...

What could have caused those thuds, and awful violent shaking of the whole car? TC, something inside the box?

Guessing in abscence of codes, check for the pesky thrust washer first?

Anyone got a spare AR35? Or even better, an R28 manual box, do the job properly for once and for all?

think Daz have R28 with all bits for manual conversion.
if not I have got few AR35 here

[JamesV6CDX]

Tonight I was driving along a dual carriageway, speedo probably somewhere up by 80. I overtook a car, using sport mode, and then pulled back into lane 1. As I pulled in, I took S mode off.

A few seconds after doing this, the light with the car and the spanner came on. As soon as I pulled away from next roundabout, it was obviously in limp mode, pulling away in top gear. (MUCH slower on the uptake than just the snow button, foot to the floor it makes loads of noise and hardly goes anywhere).

I could change through the gears manually. but when going from 1 to 2 etc there was a delay, and a thud.

I turned off the engine, restarted - light still on, same symptoms.

I then stopped the engine again, removed key, re inserted and restarted. Fault no longer there, and appeared to be starting out in first gear again.

I checked for codes - no codes in the gearbox or engine ECU stored (yes I carry a code reader in the glovebox, it's an Omega!!)

Then, upon pulling away from a standing start, admittedly quite quickly - this all happened so fast I can't explain it properly, but, at about 5,000 rpm, there were a series of THUDS as if the drive was being interrupted... it shook the whole car REALLY badly on each thud (my passenger said it hurt her). I may have imagined this, but as it happened, it felt like the back end swang around quite a lot. (I had exactly the same a few weeks ago, and put it down to a diesel patch, obviously not)

I also feel like the autobox has a bit of a vibration/rumble, when slowing down and coming to a stop...

What could have caused those thuds, and awful violent shaking of the whole car? TC, something inside the box?

Guessing in abscence of codes, check for the pesky thrust washer first?

Anyone got a spare AR35? Or even better, an R28 manual box, do the job properly for once and for all?

think Daz have R28 with all bits for manual conversion.
if not I have got few AR35 here

In all honesty, I'll probably keep with AR35, but fit the sonnax washers etc to it, before fitment

[YZ250]

What could have caused those thuds, and awful violent shaking of the whole car? TC, something inside the box?........................

Haven't got a whiny diff by any chance have you.    Sounds like something mis-meshing to cause that.

[JamesV6CDX]

What could have caused those thuds, and awful violent shaking of the whole car? TC, something inside the box?........................

Haven't got a whiny diff by any chance have you.    Sounds like something mis-meshing to cause that.

Nope, but the gearbox has always had a high pitched whine - only with engine ticking over, not driving. Kev wood has heard it

[Kevin Wood]

I thought the gearbox had died and been changed since the whining one?

Either way, sounds like this one isn't healthy.

Usual drill. Check fluid level and condition. If ok, drop sumps and see what you find in them.

[VXL V6]

The description of thuds followed by the back slewing round sounds more like a Diff issue to me....
 

[YZ250]

The description of thuds followed by the back slewing round sounds more like a Diff issue to me....
 

 

Hence my question above.   If it's 'kicking' the car it could be mis-mesh of crown/planet wheels in diff.    Mind you, if the car has known gearbox issues I suppose it's a good place to start. 

Regards
Alan

[JamesV6CDX]

I thought the gearbox had died and been changed since the whining one?

Either way, sounds like this one isn't healthy.

Usual drill. Check fluid level and condition. If ok, drop sumps and see what you find in them.

I did have a problem with not being able to select drive a few months ago, but this was attibuted to the selector switch

[Marks DTM Calib]

Cant see a diff issue resulting in the gearbox going into limp mode.

Sounds like something failed/failing in the autobox to me.

[2woody]

don't sound like a diff issue to me at all.

If something is worn so bad that it's come out of mesh, then it would undoubtedly bi in bits on hte floor having come through the casing. It would never rotate again.

definitely inside the transmission.

[Psychoca]

I have an R25-28 box kicking about in the garage still, I'll quite happily part with it...  pm me for more info if your interested...

[Bionic]

 
If it were mine I would not do anything other than change that gearbox for another from a reputable and tested source. The diff I would reckon is okay cos if it were that then by now the chances are that it would have stripped some teeth, and that, believe me you would know about.
Before you fit another box give it a good clean out and pay particular attention to the mesh filter. How many miles has yours done, cos its a safe bet that the oil in it is the original and by now must be past its sell by date.........
They really ought to fit drain plugs to them!
GudLuk anyway.

[Martin_1962]

I have seen 2 things cause this

1) Badly fitted LPG system - shorted out the crank sensor pickup - gearbox went into limp - it was THAT install.

2) Failed selector switch my blue 2.0 CD

[YZ250]

If the gearbox has possible known issues and given the fact that it went into limp mode before the thuds it does point to the autobox.    Add to this the unexplained whine, this has got to be a starting point for elimination. Even interrupted power would feel bad through the transmission though.

Reference the post below, amazingly this is not always the case with the diff. On one of my previous cars I ran with a badly chipped planet wheel (didn't know at the time) for over a year (over 8000 miles) and apart from the whine, it seldom went out of mesh, but when it did, it was scary. Felt like the back end was twisting. After about three massive juddery thuds it would settle down again and be good for many more miles. The diff oil was like glitter when I replaced it. 
As said, mine was obvious lock up at back end so much easier to pinpoint, hence my question about diff whine. In your case, it does sound like the gearbox is first check though.

don't sound like a diff issue to me at all.

If something is worn so bad that it's come out of mesh, then it would undoubtedly bi in bits on hte floor having come through the casing. It would never rotate again.

definitely inside the transmission.

Hope you get it sorted soon. 

Regards
Alan

[JamesV6CDX]

Is it worth dropping the oil out of the diff... I'd soon see if there were any lumps of metal, that way?

[JamesV6CDX]

UPDATE

Used the car again this PM

Did 2 miles around town, seemed fine. Joined a dual carriageway. gave some revs to overtake again - and immediately, as soon as I eased off the gas, small thump, and into limp mode. 

Stopped and restarted.

Same again - foot down, up to about 70mph - eased off, and boomf.. limp mode again.

Now totally stuck in limp mode.

My sealey code reader says a code is stored but won't tell me what. I might try with my er, other device, this evening, and see if I can gain anything from it.

Either way, do we think this is mechanical, or might I get away with a duff solenoid etc.. 

[robmac]

i had similar problems last week to those described and it turned out to be my crank sensor. new vauxhall one fitted and all good again.

[YZ250]

Would it be worth road testing it without using drive at all. Pull away in first, shift into second and third but avoid drive completely. This way the selector doesn't have to think as you are doing it for it. Might be worth a shot to see what happens. These things will do 128mph in third anyway so can't see it being a problem. 

Regards
Alan

[TheBoy]

If the EML has come on, there will be a code stored in the engine ECU.  Might simply be a code to say check gearbox ECU.

BUT there will be a code.

[noel]

i had similar symptons on my ar25 box.It eventually gave up the ghost,had gearbox code read via tech 2 at a vauxhall dealer to find the torque converter had failed

[JamesV6CDX]

Engine fault codes as follows:

P1700 - Service Vehicle Soon Request from Transmission Control Module
 (08) - Present

Gearbox codes as follows:

P0748 - <Unknown DTC>
 (06) - Present

Drove her again, and upon acceleration, around 4-5000 rpm, car shuddered very violently, repetitively, as if the drive was being applied/released/applied/released, very quickly...

[JamesV6CDX]

I believe the gearbox code is: Pressure control solinoid circuit open

Does this mean likely to be electrical, then? 

[JamesV6CDX]

Just looked at the diagram PDF in the images area, the pressure control solenoid appears to be in the FRONT smaller sump, towards the drivers side. So reasonably easily accessible.

Given this is the solenoid which it's complaining about, is it worth perhaps popping the front sump off, and changing this solenoid as a starter for ten? Or am I barking up the wrong tree there?

[henryd]

have a look here James

http://www.permoveo.ltd.uk/tabid/122/OBD-Error-Code/P0748/Diagnostics/Vauxhall/Default.aspx

[Kevin Wood]

I would check the multiway connectors to the gearbox and also the 3 large connectors behind the battery first. Gearbox signals go through one of these and it's not impossible that it's loose.

Also check resistance between the pins on the gearbox ECU connector for this solenoid. I'm guessing you should see a few tens of ohms.

Then drop the front sump and see if anything's amiss.

[feeutfo]

I would check the multiway connectors to the gearbox and also the 3 large connectors behind the battery first. Gearbox signals go through one of these and it's not impossible that it's loose.

Also check resistance between the pins on the gearbox ECU connector for this solenoid. I'm guessing you should see a few tens of ohms.

Then drop the front sump and see if anything's amiss.

believe there have been a couple of very similar faults posted in the last couple of months re those connectors giving that code. Might be worth a search James, and a check of the connectors of course.

[JamesV6CDX]

I would check the multiway connectors to the gearbox and also the 3 large connectors behind the battery first. Gearbox signals go through one of these and it's not impossible that it's loose.

Also check resistance between the pins on the gearbox ECU connector for this solenoid. I'm guessing you should see a few tens of ohms.

Then drop the front sump and see if anything's amiss.

believe there have been a couple of very similar faults posted in the last couple of months re those connectors giving that code. Might be worth a search James, and a check of the connectors of course.

many thanks gents

[JamesV6CDX]

I've put a post in parts wanted, but, does anyone have an autobox lying around they would sell me a pressure control solenoid from, please? (Small / Easy to get to)

Failing that, I can get one new, delivered, for £46, but need to order before lunchtime to get for the weekend, and, need to do some other elimination first. But it would be really good to have one to hand 

[pscocoa]

Change crank sensor and ATF first and see how you go

[JamesV6CDX]

Change crank sensor and ATF first and see how you go

I'm not getting any codes for the crank sensor though, or any indication this would be the issue?