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[Y26SE]

Hi all, ive finally getting to the last of my issues with my mig. after sorting the glow plug issue and cleaned out egr and i did a compression test and all cylinders are within 370 to 400 psi, i applied 1 bar of pressure up the vacuum hoses and only hiss i could hear was on the little valve on the end of the inlet manifold which i think does the flaps but im left with an odd running issue.

it start off after the glow plugs fine and settles into idle but starts hunting and dropping revs and runs lumpy until some heat gets in the engine and smokes a little grey smoke but once upto temp and the climate start to flow air inside the car it settles down and faultless at normal operating temperature.

Any ideas greatfully received.

Thanks

[Crazycarzowner]

I could be wrong, but it maybe an issue with the thermostat stuck in the open position allowing the coolant to circulate before the engine is up to normal running temperature. The engine will still be too cold so the engine management will think it needs more fuel (to stoke the fire) thus chucking more smoke out the rear too. Once its heated up it won't be a problem as the thermostat is open & the coolant is up to temperature. 

[05omegav6]

Assuming it warms up

Below 14° mine barely manages 75 on the temp gauge (thermostat stuck open)  makes it quite chilly inside on colder mornings...

That said, do diesels run slightly hotter as a side effect of compression combustion

[andymp]

After how long does it start running ok? Could be the diesel filter housing alllowing air in?

[Y26SE]

Well does anyone now where I can get a full engine harness as the garage said faults seem to be in the loom as the ecu has been tested ok and something about block terminal 8 or so and all the test equipment is struggling to get any coherent results from it and now at a point where the harness needs taking apart so I have a wiring fault.

Result is now do I get a loom. Or try an auto electrician to check loom out

[andymp]

Did they give you a printout or documentation with the precise details?

[Y26SE]

Im going to nip and get the car back Monday afternoon as im working until Saturday afternoon but they will give me full details

[Y26SE]

Just to refresh and annoy 

I have no got my omega back after 3 garages a month of time and a lighter wallet and still not 100%.

known good Doner loom and ecu chip combo subbed in and fault still apparent

it was found to have a collapsed exhaust baffle and got a new back and middle section and this got it driving much better and removed a maf fault code to boot.


wiring checked from terminal x39 to where ever that went im not sure and checked wiring to pump all ok and  the ex vauxhall tech at the third garage said the vauxhall data sheet specifies at this point to replace the ecu but this has been tried already at the 2nd garage and when monitoring the car from cold the fuel correction figures are all over the place when cold but within a couple of minutes it stabilises it self out and during those minutes that's when the engine is most unstable

He himself now suspects the pump ecu is having an issue but he couldn't be confident and he mentioned a possible wrong glowplugs on cylinder 1-3 not quite being long enough to keep the combustion chamber warmed up untill they time out but this starts from cold on the button so this was just speculation.

confirmed also that all sensors are good and giving off the correct information to the ecu from fuel temp, air temp, maf, all the vacuum solenoids and vacuum pressure are all good

still have the p1590 signal high present

the start up fault  is still with me and now my battery has decided to die

 

[Marks DTM Calib]

A few things spring to mind.

1) The fault code you ahev is more often than not caused by the crank sensor, has this been checked/replaced?

2) You say you have a vac leak, has this been corrected, the swirl flaps not closing fully can and will affect the idle

[Y26SE]

Hi sorry the vacuum is spot on on ecu measurement and third garage physical checked at the solinoids and flap valve all ok

i should have added on garage one put a genuine bosch crank first thing  and fault still apparent garage 3 checked the return to ecu and wire checked out ok

all filters replaced and new hose from filter housing to pump with a primer bulb and diesel magic put in.

The car never fails to start on the glowplugs but runs like crap for the first few minutes then its like a switch it changes from crap to running sweet in a blink of an eye

[Omegatoy]

possiblyt cheap diesel in the tank?
or more likely it has a small air leak on the fuel side, it starts immediately on the key then runs like crap as the air goes through soon as its self bled it runs perfectly,make sense?
get a one way valve pump on the main fuel on main line in and try bleeding it before a cold start see what the differnce is?

[Y26SE]

tried a MAF and no fix. i put a primer inline from filter to the pump and has a non return valve inside and not fixed it either so im at a loss and three garages are aswell. i think ill just try a feed direct to the engine from a jerry can and prove the fuel system out.

[Y26SE]

Well I found something odd over the last couple of days. Doner fuel made no difference but I noticed on start up a puff of soot from the waste gate on the turbo. With it rough running I pulled the vac hose off and the gate i believe moved to open and idle ran good. Put the hose back on. Gate moved to closed and idle like crap and puffs of smoke from between the turbo. Repeat and idle fine with hose off and crap with hose on. Then after a minute or two its fine again. when running if i rev it up at higher RPM the inlet hose expands and actuator rod pulls starts to pull out of the actuator head and i would presume dumping pressure so when engine is idle running and vacuum applied this makes the gate stay in the closed position and at high boost the valve would open


 I've had low power that i not noticed to much but my next line will explain.


A friend of mine had a thought and brought a laser thermometer from his work on Friday and found my middle box after a run was 110 degrees and surrounding exhaust was 45  and my back box wasn't far from the end as rusty as hell.

new exhaust fitted on Saturday and my word the car has turned into a power house and wheel spins. But i still have this idle when cold

i filmed the cold start and with the turbo actuator out of the loop all is well. introduce the actuator and crap running is present. I described the actuator action the wrong way round but you will get the gist of what my car is up to and ill load it later on.

Any ideas at this point gratefully received   



 

[Y26SE]

http://youtu.be/HqGHjyV1sdk

Apologise for the actuator action described wrong way round, i had camera nerves lol

[andymp]

Does it do the same if you move the vane actuator by hand?