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[TheBoy]

May not be this (2.6 not 2.5) but easy fix if it is:

https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=150996.msg2042122#msg2042122

Part number is 90494959 12v 30A * Gm 90 494 959 also used on Astras, Zafiras, Saabs etc..  Pre-owned available for £5 from eBay.

OP said he was getting fuel at the rail.  Plus the intermittent immobiliser light.....

[danzigfan]

Update....Still nothing new. A mobile electrician who I know will arrive later today, he says he has OBD1 and "My Naff Code Reader" software to check live data.
In summary, yesterday car started after many tries and ran for few minutes then died. Then started again just to die some 10 seconds later.
No EML flashing this time.
Remote sometimes locks/unlocks after 4 or 5 tries, never first time. I took the battery out, recharge it and tried to start the car today, because I came to the conclusion it could be alternator overcharging and making all this weird problems. Spoiler- it didin't start today at all. I do get faint smell of fuel, so the pump is working. But it gets no spark. It has an MOT next month, so I'm really under pressure now. Dealer says original crank sensor is NLA and washed his hands.

Can anyone tell me what to look for when live data is on PC?
Anything will help.
Thanks, Stan

[Doctor Gollum]

Do you hear the fuel pump when you turn the key to position 2?

If not, it isn't working.

The remote locking and the immobiliser are two totally independent systems. The only common aspect is that the remote fob and transponder chip both form part of the key assembly.

[danzigfan]

I get the fuel running if I take fuel hoses on the plenum off when cranking. I also replaced fuel pimp with known good one from my previous v6, just in case. Made no difference

[danzigfan]

I get no spark on any leads

[Doctor Gollum]

I get the fuel running if I take fuel hoses on the plenum off when cranking. I also replaced fuel pimp with known good one from my previous v6, just in case. Made no difference

Running as in a steady stream or spraying everywhere?

A weak pump may still deliver fuel, but won't be able to achieve the required pressure to allow the injectors to spray properly as you crank... This matters because after the initial prime, the pump remains OFF until the ECU sees both cam and crank sensor inputs.

[danzigfan]

Running in steady stream, both pumps the same

[Doctor Gollum]

Running in steady stream, both pumps the same

You need to put a gauge on the fuel rail. A steady stream is not 3.0 Bar.

Without enough fuel it will never start.

[danzigfan]

What's the chance of both pumps being bad? They were both in working order

[cam.in.head]

as mentioned above you need a pressure guage on the fuel rail . this will  confirm a few things .
initial prime when ign turned on and wether it holds pressure for a resonable time .
pressure maintained when engine  starts ( if it does) and the modulation of the regulator when you rev it . you can also do an injector leak down / flow test if you have the facility on your tester to fire the injectors .
so ....after confirming fuel
you can test the injectors electrically with a low wattage lamp to check for voltage present and firing . im pretty sure they are constant positive when its main relay energises and then the ecu modilates the negative . a basic light whilst cranking would  confirm this .
BUT this appears a totally seperate issue to immobiliser issue earlier ? and lots of weird things happening randomly and then going away points to an earthing fault somewhere (possibly ?)
but see what your tech guy finds  today

[danzigfan]

Will report on what will tech  guy find...It would be much more pleasant to work on car if it was summer...now it's -15 deg outside and I can't feel my fingers anymore

[cam.in.head]

-15 wow i feel for you .   we think its bad here when its below +5 !  . all credit to you .