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Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Rear Cig Power
« on: 28 June 2019, 22:38:54 »
Only on Elites and I think CDX.
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Iirc LPG pumps aren't subject to weights & measures regs, due to it being sold by volume - or something like that ?Dont know, but either way I would have thought they would need to be Calibrated for Retail Delivery somehow.
My thoughts exactly, strangly, on the way back the Contents gauge was reading empty but this morning went straight back up to full as per norm.did the guy before you put 20 litres in and the clock wasnt reset?No, all the Zero's before filling.
Someone did say to me a few years back that when you connect the Nozzle Pump to the Car, if they take a while to reset the Pump and or Activate it ready for fill that during the idle time your tank presure will slowly fill the Pumps Hose up, cant see it myself, even if it did in thoery you would get it back when youve finished filling. I mean end of the day this is Sainsburys not some back yard LPG outfit.
There's no way you'd get 20 litres into the hose (and your LPG tank has a non return valve in the filler anyway).
If those 20 litres had existed and wouldn't fit in the tank you'd know about it by now.
Might be worth checking your filler valve is still cutting off at 80% fill. If it is, you've been done, IMHO.
did the guy before you put 20 litres in and the clock wasnt reset?No, all the Zero's before filling.
So you actually paid?Yes, this is a Petrol Station not a frekking Restaurant
Remove the steering column shurod, 4screws underneath, remove centre vents, undo screw at bottom of dash, remove screws x4 in the centre vents holder, remove screws that hold dash, pull clocks slightly left, remove plug from mid, clocks should come out.Dam, I knew I didnt have to take my Windscreen out.
Yea the Spare Key thing was just as an example, maybe I explained it wrong, point being, is once you have a Transponder / Immobilizer No Start, you need to do the Reset thing before attempting to start it again , well at least on the later Models.Not sure on the 95 Immobilizer workings, but on the later ones once you had a Immobilizer lock out period (ie wont start) you had to go through a reset motion in order to try again and get it to start, might be worth trying this.The cranksensor i got on ebay it was just a cheap one to see if the car would start then i was going to pick up a genuine vx one. and i did test it and it read 852 ohms. The car has had the battery taken out for a while quite a few times since it wouldn't start so i'll try unplugging the main ecu.
Example, you have 2 keys, one knowingly has a Transponder Chip inside, the second one doesnt or its the wrong Chip Code (but you keep it as a spare) you unlock car put the Key, doesnt start, youve put the wrong Key in (the second key), so you realise silly me put the wrong key in, so you now put the correct key and try it, still wont start, reason is its still locked up mode. to reset it ready for the correct, 1, remove Key, 2, open and close Door, 3, Lock the Door, unlock door, 4 Open Door and Key in (correct one) and start.
Possibly unplugging the Main ECU or removing the Battery for a while should have the same effect but its obviously easier to do the door thing.
The above may help you, but as said, Not sure about the early ones.
Worst case the early ones could have the Imobilizer disabled with and Tech 2 and someone who knows what there doing, guessing your need the Car Pass as well, so all is not lost.
On the Crank Sensor front, still not convinced it wasnt faulty, I had a couple now where theyve been fine but Parked Up for a while and refuse to start due to Crank Sensor issue, and it doesnt always throw a CS Issue Code untill later on or when youve finally got it going again.
Where did you get the Crank Sensor from? anything other than walking into a VX Parts to get one could give issues (did you measure it was the new one under 1K ohms?, as said there about 900 ohms and will read about +- 10 ohms briefly wih a metallic knife etc on the sensor).
The key thing I dont have a spare just 1 key that had worked every single time before
that is not how you test a crank sensorthere under 1k, from memory around 800 to 900 ohms when iscolated ie unpluged, if yoh crank it you wont see it moving on the meter, if you remove it and use a knife or simular your just about dedect a few ohms fifference accross the hall effect sensor butas said its not by much.
until you sort the remote to lock and unlock the doors, you have to assume the car is immobilized
so start there
They had a Chip in the Key, as far as Im aware all UK Omegas had Chip + Transponder set up's, the Infra Red was purely for Remote Locking and Alarm.Immobilizer
is the ID40 chip in the key ?
+1 for Immobiliser
BUTQuotethe fob flashes but nothing happens to the car (it's the one that has a key and a separate fob)
The earliest cars didn't have a chip in the key. They used an infra-red transmitter in a separate fob that you had to point at a bulb up by the rear view mirror. Once you had disabled the immobiliser you had about a minute to start the engine before it immobilised again.
My first Omega (1994 L reg IIRC) had it. I think they only used that system for the first 2 years.