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Topics - JamesV6CDX

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76
General Car Chat / Cambelt error
« on: 20 March 2018, 18:55:57 »
I changed the cambelt on one of my Omegas today.

When I removed the cambelt cover, and looked at the setup, I found this.

Can any eagle eyed OOF'ers spot what I'm talking about? (Clue, it's not a timing issue).

I wonder what the potential implications of this are.

It's corrected, now, and sporting a new kit, so good for the next 40k / 4 years :y


77
General Car Chat / Troublesome exhaust but full MOT!
« on: 15 March 2018, 17:47:12 »
I’ve hurt my shoulder and my back is quite bad, so instead of fitting the new ETS system myself, I  popped the Elite Estate down to my local small garage who have a good reputation.

I didn’t think it would be troublesome, as I could see the cat to mid section bolts had been drilled out previously and replaced with nuts and bolts. So no drilling required.

I was quite surprised when I collected it, the chap said it took three hours, and that I’d have never managed it on ramps.

Minor setback though, and he only charged me for a couple of hours. And now has a years clean ticket with no advisories :y




78
Omega General Help / Ball joint replacement
« on: 01 March 2018, 11:25:04 »
Failed MOT on F/NS bottom ball joint.

I’d rather do the ball joint alone rather than the arms, as they are poly bushed.

I don’t need to know how to change a ball joint, but can anyone advise on the best way to remove the rivets on the original?

Does the ‘bone need to be removed from the car for this?

Thanks :y


79
Omega General Help / Failed MOT advice (Emissions)
« on: 01 March 2018, 10:07:12 »
Very pleased with the MOT result. I expected a fail , and there were very few items in the list:

Exhaust has a major leak of exhaust gases (7.1.2) - expected

Exhaust emissions hydrocarbon content after 2nd fast idle excessive (7.3.D.3)

Nearside Front Lower Front suspension has excessive play in a lower suspension ball joint (2.5.B.1a) - Easy

Offside Front Tyre has a cut in excess of the requirements deep enough to reach the ply or cords (4.1.D.1a) - Easy


My question is - emissions?

Would the holed mid section in the exhaust cause this?

I thought with HC, it was usually unburnt fuel  :-\

80
Omega General Help / Non-Starting Elite Estate
« on: 25 February 2018, 15:34:24 »
2.6 V6 Estate,  I didn't really need it but have purchased from Terbs with a known starting problem, to see if I can save it from the scrapper.

When I picked it up, it started first time, remained running, and went home like it had been stung. I stopped at Tesco's en route, and she started without hesitation when I came out.

The following day, I started it up to move it on the drive, and again it started fine. Because my mind was elsewhere, I forgot to let it get a bit warm before turning it off, and killed the engine after it had only run for a very brief period.

The next day, it wouldn't start. Cranked, wouldn't fire.

I thought perhaps, I'd flooded it, so left it 48 hours. Still didn't start. Cranking at WOT didn't make any difference.

Today I fitted the spare crank sensor Terbs gave me - a used genuine one from the Omega spares outfit near heathrow. Had to do it from above, as the car was on grass  ::)

Still no difference, won't go.

The tank is over half full, and with the fuel feed line removed from the rail, it spurts fuel upon turning the ignition, so I don't think there's a fuel issue.

Testing has shown however, there's no spark at any of the plugs on the 1-3-5 bank when cranking, and I suspect 2-4-6 is the same.

The original crank sensor was pattern, fitted a year ago, so was prime suspect. I wonder if I'm just unlucky, and the replacement is also goosed? (There is evidence of where it's been crimped behind oil cooler pipes, so it's likely to be an old one, and removal/transit may well have finished it off).

My obvious next step is to fit a new GM crank sensor, unless anyone has any other ideas about what would cause lack of spark?

I should add, no codes stored either before or after sensor change.

Cheers :y

81
General Car Chat / Omega and MOT
« on: 16 February 2018, 00:58:14 »
My 217, 500 mile 15 year old Elite passed her MOT today without a single advisory!

To celebrate I showed her a sponge and took a few photos this afternoon  8) 8)












82
General Discussion Area / Bereavement
« on: 15 February 2018, 03:14:18 »
For those who don't know me, at an early age (maybe ten) I was taken in by, and lived with / was raised by my grandparents, who to all intents and purposes, fulfilled the role of parents up to my early 30s (I'm now Just 34).

My old man was a legend, he was successful in the Army in his younger days, and later became a very skilled engineer working on aircraft for what was then Dowty Rotol. His money always went into giving his family the best life possible, and one thing he always insisted on was maintaining and repairing his own cars, which, is where I think I must get my fascination from.

My grandma, who other than biologically undertook the role of a mother with me, became very unwell when I was about 16. She had numerous strokes, brittle diabetes, severe mobility problems, breathing difficulties, and began to need around the clock care. Being such a faithful rock, my old man (who was in brilliant health) religiously cared for her day in day out, and devoted his life to doing so. He even stopped having a social drink, and went tee total many years ago, because he wanted to be fresh / able to drive, should she require medical attention.

I have always thought he would outlive her by a long way, and envisaged taking him on holidays and giving him a really decent quality towards the later stages of his life.

In a twist of fate, in April 2014, at the age of 81, he was lugging about bags of compost and gravel, maintaining the garden, and suddenly sat down, saying he had pain in his head. He then slipped into "sleep" and an ambulance was called. A few hours later, in hospital, we were told that he'd had a catastrophic bleed on his brain, and had a matter of hours. I was with him, among other relatives, by his bedside as he slipped away, in timing with the sun going down, on the same day.

I was convinced the old lady would follow him, and be lost without him. But in true stubbornness, she bounced back over time, and adapted to living alone, with family and carers coming in to do (everything).

A couple of weeks ago, after stripping that Corsa engine, I flew to the Canaries for a holiday, with a real need to unwind. After my first night there, I had a phone call the next morning. She had died that morning, found slumped over the kitchen worktop in her wheelchair.

I've needed some time to process it all, and it's suddenly hitting me that I've lost my parents. Although she was unwell, she was mentally as sharp as a knife, "with it", in terms of today's society, and spent hours talking to me and guiding me.

I do still have my biological mum, but for reasons I don't want to go into, the relationship by nature consists of me providing the support and advice, not the other way around - and she'll also need more of that from me now they are gone.

To this end, other than my uncle, who is an absolute rock, and his wife and kids, I don't have any family left!  :-\

Life sucks sometimes.

83
General Car Chat / Corsa, Engine Problems
« on: 23 January 2018, 07:34:20 »
Not a help or information request as such (although all opinions welcome) - more of a rambling thread.

Currently parked on my drive is a Vauxhall Corsa, it's a 2007 'D' with the almighty three cylinder 1 litre 12 valve engine. Female owned long term, not ragged or modified, reasonable history of oil changes etc.

I was told "It doesn't start very well, and when it's going, it judders a bit. It also stalls".

Understatement of the year  ;D It will only start at WOT, and then runs on at least only two cylinders, possibly one and a half. It won't idle, and cuts out as soon as it comes to a standstill.

Fault codes stored are: lambda sensor no2 open circuit, lambda 2 heater fault, general misfire, and misfire cylinder 1.

I've not looked at it, other than this (haven't even lifted the bonnet yet) - but will do so today.

My money, in this order, is on

1) Burnt out / damaged valve
2) Ring / piston trouble
3) Coil pack
4) Plug

Doesn't use any oil, and no visible smoke from the rear.

I'll be surprised if no1 is the troublesome cylinder, though, as normally on the three pot lumps, I thought it was usually no3 that suffers.

With aches/pains/rain I won't be doing any more than removing the plugs and doing a visual inspection / compression test today, but place your bets here as to what's wrong  ::)

84
General Discussion Area / Liver function test results
« on: 19 January 2018, 13:00:38 »
For ages I’ve been complaining of pain on the right side of my torso coming and going, in addition to fatigue and stomach problems.

I saw the doctor who sent me for an ultrasound of my liver and abdomen. This came back normal.
He examined me and said he could feel no enlargement.

The symptoms have persisted, and last week I underwent a blood test with full liver function tests in addition.

The results have come back as “normal”, but, a couple of the levels are towards the upper end of said thresholds.

The two I think are of concern are

Serum ALT level 28 u/l (range is 10-35)

alanine transaminase (ALT), an enzyme that is produced and used inside liver cells. If the liver is under stress, levels of ALT present in blood can start to rise.

ALT is an enzyme that is mostly produced by liver cells and therefore it is a good marker of liver disease. When ALT levels rise, it is usually a clear sign that the liver cells are showing signs of damage.

One of the biggest causes of raised ALT levels is fat in the liver, usually caused by drinking too much alcohol too frequently”


gamma-glutamyl transpeptidase - 47 U/L (range is 12-64)

GGT test measures the amount of the enzyme GGT in your blood. Enzymes are molecules that are necessary for chemical reactions in your body. GGT functions in the body as a transport molecule, helping to move other molecules around the body. It plays a significant role in helping the liver metabolize drugs and other toxins.

GGT is concentrated in the liver, but it’s also present in the gallbladder, spleen, pancreas, and kidneys. GGT blood levels are usually high when the liver is damaged.


And finally, bilirubin levels - 16 umol/L (range 0-21)

When the liver is badly damaged by high intake of alcohol, it becomes swollen. This swelling blocks the removal of bilirubin, and bilirubin levels then rise in the blood. A raised bilirubin level indicates serious long term damage to your liver

I don’t consider myself a big drinker but accept I drink more than the couple of units the government say I should per day.

I’d take those results as “normal” for an overweight bloke in his 50s, but for a slim early 30s guy I don’t like them at all, and I’m thinking I will go tee-total, and have a retest in three months.

Maybe there is some sense in the government guidelines after all!

85
General Discussion Area / Cost of food
« on: 11 January 2018, 20:12:14 »
I have read numerous articles recently where people on low budgets have commented online / in the media that because they don't have much money, they have to feed their kids things like frozen pizzas, cheap ready meals, etc etc, because they "can't afford" home cooked food.

I fail to see how it's the case, and have over the last week decided to look at the cost per portion of what I'm buying/making.

Last meal, serves 4 -

Whole chicken, medium £4
2 x leeks £80p
3 carrots £30p
10 potatoes (£1.20)

Total cost £6.30. Fed four, so just over £1.50 per portion for a healthy roast.

Tonight

1 x courgette (half used) so 40p worth
1 x can chopped tomato 30p
1 x can kidney beans 30p
1 x can butter beans 30p
1 x red pepper 33p
1 x onion 25p
Rice, and a few spices, say £1 worth used.

£2.88 in total for the most delicious home made, slow cooked chilli, serves 4 generously, nice wholesome meal for 72p per head, and took no more than 5 minutes to prepare and chuck in the slow cooker.

I can only conclude that it's either laziness, or lack of knowledge / don't want to know / "too hard"

86
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / LPG parts wanted
« on: 01 January 2018, 03:54:12 »
Front end parts wanted please

Ideally I’m after the traditional stag ECU commonly used on here with loom, changeover switch, pressure and temp sensors etc.

I will probably buy vap and injectors new but if you have any known good ones I’m interested to hear.

Also any polyflex (8mm) to tank and vap connectors most welcome as are any nozzles etc

No pipes wanted, all these will be new.

Cheers :y

87
General Car Chat / LPG and Omega
« on: 31 December 2017, 02:49:56 »
I am considering, once I fix it, getting rid of my Mondeo while it still has some value. As good as it is, I worry this airbag fault may just be a sign of things to come.

I happened to be pondering this, whilst enjoying driving around in my lovely black Elite, and buying fuel - and noticed LPG near me was only 50p a litre!!

Long story short, in 18 months I should no longer be under a cloud of uncertainty, and my long term work and health position will be clearer. But until then I am considering cam-belting, servicing, and gassing my Omega, to use it as my daily driver for that period.

I will need help with tank fitting and such due to weight (and will plea for that at a later date) - but I'm just wondering what folk favour at the moment in terms of LPG.

Looking online, I see STAG do a new kit, which is smarter and adapts to injector values etc. Is this likely to be good for the Omega? I was a huge fan of the classic Stag 300 kit, so an improved one sounds good.

I know not many would see gassing an Omega as worthwhile at the moment, but My Elite (Ian U's old one) is in great shape despite the mileage, and if I were to use it for at least 18 months, it'd pay for itself in half of that, and enjoy every mile

I'd appreciate any up to date experience anyone has. I'd also be happy to use an older Stag kit, as they are proven on Omegas, and will post in the wanted pages just in case!



88
General Car Chat / MK4 Mondeo Airbag issue
« on: 31 December 2017, 02:36:20 »
I've started another thread, because, although I mentioned it in a previous one, it was more of a "rant" about car washes, and has turned into a humorous thread to this effect, so I'd like to use this one to discuss the fault / diagnosis, if that's ok. Cheeky, I know, being an Omega forum, but there are some clever folk on here :y

The Car

2010 Mondeo Zetec TDCi 140 Estate, 6 speed. 70k ish from new. Owned by my family for most of it's life.

I've driven the car for a year with no issues at all and thoroughly enjoyed it. The other day I took it to a hand car wash, and, immediately after I drove away, the airbag light was on. I thought maybe they'd rammed the hoover into a connector under the seats and upset the SRS system etc.

I took the car to the local garage on the way home, who pulled out the fault code B0001 - Driver Frontal Stage 1 Deployment Control - Circuit Resistence below threshold.

They told me that "the airbag in the wheel needs changing mate". I didn't believe them, so decided best bet would be diagnose myself.

After reading online, and a trip to Maplin I soldered a switch into my ELM327 reader  to enable me to read the Medium Speed CAN Bus and talk to the RCM (Restraint control module, AKA Airbag ECU) - and got a copy of some software that talks to Fords. So I can now read codes, reset them, and get all manner of live data. It's pretty cool.

Anyhow, I reset the codes, and the above code came back. I then looked at the live data. All of the airbags were reporting a 3ohm resistence (correct) apart from the drivers airbag, which was reporting a resistence of 1ohm. At this point, I thought maybe the garage were correct, and decided to remove the driver airbag to test the resistence myself. As I had the airbag half out of the wheel (but not disconnected) I had to start the engine to move the wheel, and noticed that the fault light had gone out, with the airbag half way out. When I put it back in, the fault came straight back.

Anyhow, I removed the airbag, and after removing the little shorting bar, I got a 3 ohm resistence with my meter, proving the airbag is GOOD and the fault lies elsewhere.

I installed a 3 ohm resistor in it's place, but despite doing so, the live data still showed a 1 ohm resistence. Then interestingly I read the data with nothing connected in place of the driver airbag, and, got the same 1 ohm reading.

To cut a long story short, with either a 3 ohm resistor or the airbag connected, when I press HARD on the clock spring behind the steering wheel (the bit with electronics in, that turns) the fault goes away, and it shows a 3 ohm resistence. Let go, and, back to 1 ohm.

So the issue appears to be the clock spring.

Would folk concur?

Can this be taken apart and the connections checked / soldered, or is it goosed? They are very costly new, and second hand parts of this nature after being beaten off by some Neanderthal breakers yard might not be a great call.

I'm pleased I persevered with it, because the garage would have charged me for a new airbag I didn't need. I really should get some of my confidence back, I'd have never considered going near a garage in the past  :( :(

Interestingly not sure how a car wash would have damaged the squib. Unless they sprayed a LOT of fluid around. I guess could just be a co-incidence, that the mondeo electrics reared their head at this stage!

89
General Car Chat / Never again
« on: 22 December 2017, 14:18:58 »
Will I ever use one of these car wash places where about 6 blokes have a production line going

Had the Mondeo done today. Airbag light on straight after. Nothing appears disconnected under seats, can only assume they’ve sprayed their shit into the airbag itself

Local garage read the code. Something like Stage 1 driver frontal deployment control

Reset it, straight back.

Any ideas  :(

90
I can't find the Key for my 3.2 ANYWHERE. And I only have one.

I'm going to quit looking today, as I'm pee'd off with it, and will have another search tomorrow. If that turns up nothing, I'm going to need a new ECU, Key, immobiliser receiver, and full ignition barrel assembly (the one that's held on with the two shear bolts.

If anyone has anything, I'd be grateful - if I can't find the key by the end of tomorrow, I'll buy it off you. Pointless looking for hours and hours for an hours work  :-X

PS - door lock not essential. I have one, with a key that fits it, so if you don't have one - I can get by. I just need to get the thing started and moved before my Christmas visitors arrive!

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