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Topics - tyreburner

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5
1
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / battery light staying on?
« on: 01 June 2011, 20:54:38 »
As above, i have changed the alternator today and the battery  light is on , even when the ignition is off???????
I guess the alternator is u/s but any ideas before i get my original reconned and kick off with the pikey that sold it to me???
Thanks
Mick

2
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / part no please
« on: 24 May 2011, 18:24:54 »
As above can anyone help with a part number for me. i have looked the best i can but cant find one and as i am away and using my phone internet access is limited :-(
Its for my alternator on a 99 3.0 elite with air con.

Thanks in advance

Mick

3
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / chip and me being a di*k
« on: 05 February 2011, 18:19:31 »
Story first ( as always ) but there is help needed too please..
Well i decided to replace my rather mashed ignition barrel today with one i got before christmas. also cleaned my afm (or whatever its called) and my icv ( i think??) i cleaned something anyway lol
Also did the ignition barrel , and door lock to match and did the boot lock , stripped everything out and realised i didnt get a boot lock with the set  :D :D ::)
Was so bloody careful not to damage any of those stupid pushy things that hold the boot lid carpet on too !!!!!!!
Anyway after doing all this i put the maf and icv? back on tried to start the car and bloody eml was flashing - what the hell had i done to the immob?
Got the old spare key  put it next to the ring round ignition and it started?? thought ok i will sort it but for now i can use the spare remote and start the car with it next to the ring, nope!! it would only start when i had the key attached to the spare fob???????
(i know anyone thats read this far will be screaming the solution at the screen)
Thought oh well at least it still runs sort of, few days/weeks without the cowling on and using two keys to get it started......... Nope i am a K**B ::) ::)
The new barrel came with a key but as i have now discovered the chip aint in the remote- its in the key head plastics :-? :-? :-?



How do i get the chip out the old key please ??????????? :-? ::) :o :(

4
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / weird
« on: 03 February 2011, 22:18:12 »
ok i been away for a month, tina started the car every week, but now i have a weird problem (on top of all the ones i had before lol) if i lock the car with the key - fine, if i sit in and push the button down - fine, but if i use the remote it locks/unlocks all doors but the drivers?
Am baffled cause technically it works just not properly off the fob.
Any ideas please????
Thanks
Mick

5
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / anyone repair car radios ?
« on: 10 January 2007, 18:20:38 »
hi i bought a jvc kd-lh811 off flea bay and its mint ....oh yeah apart from the fact it keeps trying to play cd's that arent there and just keeps ejecting them once you force one in, ebay member has a 7 day return policy but wont accept it as says it works? i paid with paypal but i have to wait 10 days and as i travel 30 mile each way to work i want music!!!!!
 i will be persuing him but if anyone does cheap repairs i would just pay em as this appears a dogs boll*x unit and was cheap... now i know why... wouldnt care he had 1388 feedback aswell
Why are the ebayers that sell shit always the other end of the country!!! >:(
Mick

6
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / omega speakers
« on: 19 January 2007, 15:09:40 »
ok have got sound yay!!!!! BUT it appears all the speakers run off one earth is this correct please?
also any simple solution or do i run speaker wires up the car straight from the h/u to the butchered wires from my poor philips amp?
cheers
mick

7
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / led interior light bulb
« on: 28 January 2007, 18:10:30 »
Hi, just wondering has anyone put one of these in their car?
Just i bought one off flea bay in green with 2 leds and when in the car it doesn't go off.?

It goes off when i start the car but when i alarm it /wait for the delay it just goes dimmer but stays on.
I even left it for a couple of hours to see if it would discharge itself but nope bloody thing wont go off???

cheers
in advance
Mick

8
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / bypass standard amp - my way
« on: 21 January 2007, 14:44:55 »
Ok, may be of use to someone somewhere, "cutting out" pardon the pun  :-X the omega amp that was cutting out when i put a new h/unit in my elite.
it had the Philips amp which is behind the spare wheel recess twds the front of the car behind the metal.
Firstly i unplugged the amp, checked which pairs of wires were for which channel and found that:

There are four obvious pairs (ie twisted round each other) in the loom
white n brown/white            NSR Door
green n brown/green           OSR Door
yellow n brown/yellow         OSF Door
blue n brown/blue               NSF door speaker

There are also :
white n brown/white           NS parcel shelf
green n brown/green         OS parcel shelf

These arent intertwined.

So i cut the wires ( some people may prefer to tap into them for ease of re-fitting amp at a later date)

Next i got four lenghts of speaker wire (made sure they were long enough obviously! :-[)
took the plug that came with the radio - it only had a plug on one end but you could easily cut the speaker wires off an iso connector and leave the power ones on so it will still just plug into the cars loom.
then i soldered the four lenghts of wire to the 4 channel outputs on the wiring plug

 ** remember to mark which one is for which channel**
I used masking tape wrapped round the end of the speaker wire and wrote on it i.e rr,fr,rl,fl

Then i wrapped electricians tape round all the speaker wires to keep them tidy and stop them getting snagged etc.

Next was getting them from radio to back of car.

I dont know about other people but on my 95 elite there aint a lot of gaps in the dash to get wires through and after loads of attempts i finally took a length of wire ( any wire will do maybe a couple of foot long) fed that through a gap (keeping one end where i could see it though :P), then i removed the plastic panel under the glovebox and made sure the wire came out the bottom.
Next my master stroke! i taped the end of this wire to the end of the speaker wires that would go to the back of the car and pulled it through from the passenger footwell. - took bloody ages as you have to wiggle and twist but it worked eventually.
The rest is straight forward.
just remove the door sill trim thingy and the panel in footwell by wing.
feed wires up the car and pull the two tabs to release rear seat.
I dont know the official way to do this put i just tugged the top of rear seat panel  ( the one at the side between rear door and seat) and it popped off showing a nice hole to feed speaker wires through.
Then i soldered wires to the pairs i cut off theoriginal philips amp plug ( colours as above) and there we go the speakers are done.

My radio didnt come with an iso connector so i had half an old iso lying around and all i did was hacksaw it so that i only had the power block left ( personal preference as i didnt want a load of unused wires connected encase they managed to short or something.) plugged it in and off i go.

The only thing i did was wire the red and yellow from head unit to the same live(yellow i think) after i put radio in so it didnt keep resetting and i just pop the face when i park up.

a couple of pics:
i cut the power section off the iso


i cant really use tape too well but aint got no heatshrink


again apologies for the tape


how the finish thing should look ready to feed into the car (N.B blue wire ready for an amp remote)


The rear shelf speakers can be wired into the same door speaker pairs but i am gonna try and put them on 2 channels of the 4 channel amp i am using for my sub and see how they go, cause i am probably wrong but wiring 4 speakers to 2 channels of a radio dont seem right and i would think it would spoil the sound as it would be putting a strain on the radio ( as said i am probably wrong but thats my opinion anyhow!)

The only other thing i did was rob the two thickish brown wires off the original plug to use as an earth for my  amp and it seems to be okay (probably the wrong way to do it but hey it works for me)

Then i tucked all wires away put the trim etc back , left amp out and unplugged ( as Tina would say less weight in the car  8-)  so better acceleration)

Only other thing i would mention is when parking the car if not taking radio front with you detatch it as on all the ones i have had even if you press and hold power off the little power button stays lit so you can see it in the dark...... bit like standby on ya telly and i presume it will drain your battery eventually!

well hope someone can make use of this...... in fact hope someone can understand this as i aint very good at explaining things and not much better at doing them . but the voices in my head understand  :y

Mick

9
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / headunit
« on: 15 January 2007, 19:49:54 »
ok guys, sorry to possibly repeat a question , but its cold , dark and i aint had a day off in 6 days and aint got one for another 3 and i have had one new head unit that was procreated and another one just arrive that works in her vec and works in my meega but wont give any sound, yet booms away in her vec, yet i removed a kenwood aftermarket system that was fine, my 95 elite has apparantly 6 speakers and what appears to be possibly a sub in shelf but cant feel an amp anywhere, as the kenwood worked i guessed the jvc i bought would also work, not the case..... i just wna tmusic for the long 30 miles to work in a morning!!!!!! is there a simple solution like i have to swap the lives over or cut something out of the strandard wiring plug????
cheers
please help

Mick

10
Omega General Help / maf (sorry i know!)
« on: 09 March 2011, 19:51:38 »
Have finally had time to do a paperclip test on my elite and its the first vauxhall i have ever had that has NO CODES :-)
However , it runs very lumpy when cold, has this last couple of days struggled to rev for the first 30 secs after cold starting, and cuts out when ever it feels like it, usually at a junction or on a bend.
I have been out and sprayed all i could with wd - no difference, i have had the panel by the wipers off, no obvious air leaks.
I had given up but the muckanic from across the street said it sounds like air and persuaded me to unplug the maf - tickover levelled out and will see what happens when i go work in the morning (had had a couple beers before i decided investigate), but the point of my post is - can the maf be faulty without showing a code?
I have searched both here and the wider world wide web and have heard different stories??
Thanks in advance
Mick

11
Omega General Help / idle please
« on: 15 February 2011, 16:38:44 »
Idle is well covered i know, but i search and never seem to find what i want, can someone please put a howto up on searching correctly  :D :D

Anyhow, among the many many problems my omega has is one thats really starting to get on my man boobs now, it cuts out, never when ticking over - only when i could least do with it i.e slowing for or on roundabouts/junctions or sometimes when braking towards a junction it will stall or jump into first just as it is stalling?
I cleaned what i beleive is the icv? (on the battery side of the engine, breather goes in one end and it sort of plugs into the engine with a large rubber pipe?? :-[ sorry am crap at descriptions!)
I also did the thing in the large hose from the airbox to the engine (maf or afm or fam ??? :-[)
I  know the aux belt needs changing as it slips when cold or really wet  and was wondering if that would cause the alternator to drop the voltage it supplies to things when slowing and cause it to stall? Its a '99 3.0 elite auto btw :)
I also know the gearbox switch needs cleaning too as it throws up automatic gearbox if started in p but is fine if i start it in n and dont know if that could be the cause?
Also will it cause damage if when it stalls i knock it into neutral and fire it up then select drive again whilst moving???
Thanks in advance you lovely lovely helpful people :D :D

Mick

12
Omega General Help / seat removal quite urgent !
« on: 27 November 2010, 19:14:36 »
cant get the drivers seat to go far enough forward for my dwarf girlfriend to drive "bruce" and after monday night it is her mode of transport till her audi is repaired.
Have had a look and there was a snot rag and pile of paperclips down the tunnel side of the seat, i got them out but am now wondering if there is more debris , unfortunately i cant see/reach so i need to know the correct procedure for removing the seat/runners if that is possible, its a 99 elite with airbags in the seat and am terrified i am gonna get splatted by an airbag :-/ :-/ please help
Thanks in advance

Mick

13
Omega General Help / a few expected niggles help appreciated
« on: 24 November 2010, 19:39:58 »
As per title, overall the car is great, comfy,everything appears to work (which suprised me!)

The list of things that need looking at so far are (in no particular order)

1 - Low/lumpy tickover  - fine when driving! but sounds like it is gonna stall when started and ticks over at 500rpm?
2- headlight warning  although the hids are both working
3- brake pad warning - i can work that one out lol
4- auto box warning - it keeps starting in safe mode but after a minute or so if i switch it off and back on it runs great -  think from what i have read its the selector as all the lights keep going crazy and whilst in park if i wiggle the lever i can get various lights to light up but ? just need to find out if it can be cleaned ?
5- the climate works but if i change the temp it seems to go cold and then i can only get heat on hi?
Have put anti freeze in today and bled it , dont know if that will make a difference?
6- MAJOR IMPORTANT - as this car was bought for tina to use till her car is repaired and me being 6'3" and her being 5'2" the fact that the seat wont move forward more than 2 inches is something i must get fixed by monday >:( as shortarse cant reach the pedals lol - hopefully it will just be something in the runners , but any advice on other stuff to look for would be appreciated - also it would be good to know if there are specific things relating to airbags etc i have to be aware of if i need to take the seat out?

If any of you remember me you will know i am TERRIBLE at searching and although i try i never seem to manage to find what i am looking for :-[ :-[ so if any of you loverly people can offer advice/linkys i would be really grateful  ::) ::)
Thanks in advance

Mick

P.s its a 99 elite auto

14
Omega General Help / random suggestions welcome!
« on: 14 November 2010, 16:31:16 »
Hi guys and gals?
Long time since i been on here ( dont currently own a car as am driving coaches on tour so have no need for a car!)
BUT wor lasses s4 is off the road as some tosser pulled out into the side of us and caused her car to be written off as"uneconomical to repair"
Anyway we need a run around till she gets it fixed and i have found a 2.5 cdx for £300 but it is "running lumpy"??
Would like you guys to throw ideas of what it could be and cost if possible??
Thanks
Mick

15
Omega General Help / Brake Pipes
« on: 20 October 2008, 17:45:34 »
Help please
I have had my omega for its mot today and it failed on a few things:
Both front discs excessively scored
Rear and centre exhaust need replacing
Offside front brake pipe excessively corroded
Offside rear (main and to wheel ) brake pipe excessively corroded
Nearside rear (main and to wheel) brake pipe excessively corroded
Nearside front brake pipe excessively corroded
Headlamp bulb ( i have done that now)
One number plate bulb (will do that tonight)

I reckon i can do the brake discs and possibly the exhaust but i dont know diddley squat about brake pipes (except they carry the fluid to the brakes  ::) )
Does anyone know what kind of bill i am looking at for the pipes replacing?????
Even better does anyone in the north east fancy doing them??? ( i will help all i can and offer beer tokens depending on cost? )

Or should i sell it???? Because we only moved house 6 week ago and although i am working my mrs hasnt found a job yet  ** x factor type sob story for sympathy vote  ;) **

Its a 1996 2.5 cdx with tax till the end of the month and test till 13th november? has 130k on the clock everything works even both heated seats and it even has some stamps in the book ( a fair few from memory ) it also has only had 2 former keepers???)
And the spare wheel has never been out of the boot!
If selling is my best option, would it fetch £200????

The garage i had mot done at has quoted £130 for a CASH job?????
Which i thought was a bit bloody steep??
Any ideas please

Thanks in advance
Mick

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