Please play nicely. No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....
Like any religion - you have believe without question otherwise you won't be saved ?Stupidly, there doesn't appear to be a procedure for if the car cannot pick up the transponder, and no physical key override for the ignition (only for the doors, which is plastic, and probably stands no chance in a 12 year old lock that has never been moved - we know how much force is sometimes needed on Omegas!).Spent a couple of hours trying to ascertain why an Astra-H with keyless entry won't attempt to start, unsuccessfully.Have you tried the key...
Cheap cloned Chinese digs tat wasn't being very helpful at all, and for proper diags for an Astra-H you need a Tech 2 and a CANdi, neither of which I currently have
I know Gixer has the Tech2, CANdi still to be tracked down!
My car, for example, has a place you can hold the key to start it, so it can still pick up the transponder chip, even if the key is failing. The Astra manual suggests holding near wher ethe ignition switch would be, but there is nothing behind it, so thats just a bit silly.
Hi15 years ago I was looking to improve the ignition on an early V8 Range Rover. I spent a lot of time looking at Megasquirt and diyEFI but never actually got round to splashing any money.
THX for the help. A new one is one the way, I come back with status when i changed it. Maybe I change the ECU to a speeduino.
The first time I followed the combined wisdom of Haynes and the lad behind the VX parts counter I was talked into buying new bolts.Okay thanks for that just thought I would check
Saves a few quid
They're short M6 screws; a few pence each.
Weren't they once considered flying death traps?another problem was with the forward gearbox.
Is it possible to confuse the front multiram plug with something else? I have this nagging feeling that it is just possible to swap the front multiram plug and the air intake temperature sensor plug if you try hard enough (the later engines dropped the separate air intake temperature sensor)The Vectra has a very different plenum design for packaging reasons, and might only have a single valve.
If you're using the Vectra ECU, then the multirams will never work correctly.
Likewise, if the sensors and wiring harness on the engine are not the Omega ones, then all bets are off as the pin outs on the ECU plugs may not be the same and the signals may not be correct.
Gotcha. Will check the "negative" wire on my front multiram, and even send a new wire. Based on the drawing below my (front MR) positive plug connects with the working positive on the Rear MR plug, and it seems I need to verify/route the negative wire for the front MR plug to Pin#8 on the ECU (?). How do I know this drawing is correct for the 2.6L? anyway I need daylight for that...
I don't have vehicular access to the bottom of my garden, but I reckon we can lift that body over two of my neighbours' fences, and everything else can be carried up the alley. This makes building it at home feasible.
How will you get it back over the fences when it's built?
Absolutely agree.Master cylinder was my thoughts. It seems no seal kits are available[Big Red certainly don't have them] Were all Omega master cylinders the same or were there different types? The one on mine seems to say Lucas on it but it's awkward to see as it's partly under the reservoir.
A quick Google turned up several, both seals and new pistons LINK .
I'm not keen on rebuilding this sort of thing, and would only order rebuild parts after dismantling the suspect unit. That means immobilising the car for several days, and increasing the work.
Especially hard to justify when a similar search turns up new cylinders for £75, LINK
Master cylinder ?It is the most plausible answer.
The way I did it wasResponse to Nick-Here's a cross section of the bearing:
Just to be clear, when inserting the bearing you say pull against the inner race? Why not drive in the bearing, pulling on the outer race?
Pulling on the inner aren't you risking pushing the bearing apart? bear in mind the hub is not out yet and I haven't seen a bearing in my hand yet!
Black is the outer race, green and red are the inners, arrow is the hub going in.
The hub is a light press fit into the inners.
If you don't support the red race while you doing this, you'll push it out, rather than the hub into it. That isn't good for your new bearing.
You always support the part of the bearing that you're fitting; the outer race when putting it into the trailing arm, and the inner race when fitting the hub
I wrote that I use the bearing puller set to refit the hub, which was a mistake: what I actually do is pull the hub through the bearing using its own nut and a couple of old inner races for spacers as necessary. The split one you cut off the hub will do, as the spacers need to be loose
