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151

Omega General Help / Re: rear brake shoe securing pins

« on: 18 August 2010, 16:57:04 »

If the above doesnt work, try one of the spring top caps off the earlier brake (the ones I used were off Hillman Imp or Ford Escoort MKII but were the same as the early Omega ones), but fit it behind the backplate.
The front one has to be ground / filed to a D shape to fit iirc.

152

Omega General Help / Re: Can you adjust the camber?

« on: 13 August 2010, 13:23:04 »

Geoff: Your mechanic is wrong or has a poor understanding of suspension adjustments.

Only the toe is set by adjusting the track rod lengths, not the camber.
On most cars the camber is fixed, ie non-adjustable and, for a given toe setting, you get whatever camber the manufacturing tolerances give you.
The Omega has adjustable camber. The spring strut is joined to the axle assy by two bolts, the hole for one of these bolts is slotted. If you loosen both bolts and pull the wheel outwards at the top you can reduce the camber.
Problem is that all these adjustments are interactive so adjusting the camber messes up the toe setting. Very few alignment places have the tools or knowledge to set camber correctly which is why we recommend Wheels In Motion for a full suspension set-up.

153

Omega General Help / Re: REAR DIFF

« on: 18 April 2009, 20:38:56 »

Level plug is a hex (allen) head, not torx. Correct size one is a tight fit, if there is any 'slop' you are one size down and probably need to clean out some rust to get the right one to fit.

154

Omega General Help / Re: V6 Damper Rod Issue, help needed!

« on: 05 August 2010, 09:57:25 »

Take it back to the mechanic and get him to make good his poor work.

If you do the work yourself be carefull, the cars weight must be on the wheels or you risk injury if the spring makes a bid for freedom.
Remove the plastic cap and you will see a nut fastening the top plate, remove this nut....there is a hex or torx recess in the end of the damper rod to stop it rotating as you undo the nut.
With the plate off you should see another nut underneath which should be tightened fully, do not remove this nut unless you fit spring compressors first. Tighten the nut fully, the nut clamps the top support bearing against a shoulder on the damper rod, use the hex/torx in the end of the damper rod again to stop it rotating.
Im guessing the mechanic loosened the top nut to make it easier to move the strut around when trying to separate the bottom ball joint (or even removed the whole strut and wishbone as one assembly).....but I dont understand why he would have touched the lower nut.

The top plate is trapped between the two nuts so if the bottom one is loose (too far up the threads of the damper rod) the top plate will appear to be too high, just like your picture.

155

Omega General Help / Re: diff change

« on: 30 July 2010, 22:49:36 »

If you want good acceleration go for the 4.22 from the 2.5 auto, it is plenty strong enough for the torque of a 3.0.
Only problem is the fuel consumption, the increased acceleration is addictive and the fuel tank empties at an equally fast rate.
I swapped the 4.22 for a 3.7 to get better economy but it is too tall, a 3.9 would have been a better compromise.

156

Omega General Help / Re: Abs module Screws/Bolts

« on: 26 July 2010, 10:53:13 »

Screws for fixing switch plates and sockets to back boxes are definately M3.5, not M4...whatever B&Q say.

157

Omega General Help / Re: Hot engine/Air Con

« on: 22 July 2010, 17:08:32 »

Hi took car in for mot they advised me to get Air con recharged which they say will keep engine cool,had this done cant notice any difference my car is running at 95  is this normal as they have me a little worried now,fan kicks in at about 97

Were they serious??
A working a/c system will add more heat to the under bonnet area. The engine temperature is determined by the thermostat and should remain pretty constant, unless the radiator is clogged up.
Your temperature is spot on.

158

Omega General Help / Re: chipping

« on: 29 June 2010, 17:15:27 »

Used a Powerchip in a previous 3.0, seemed to make it more lively, certainly helped when towing a big caravan.
Fuel consumption was slightly better if anything.
Overall, no dramatic improvement, just little bits here and there so it depends on price. Would I pay the £100 odd again? No.

159

Omega General Help / Re: Climate Control is not as cold as it used to be

« on: 27 June 2010, 21:13:54 »

If you had a temperature of - anything at the air vents then something is very wrong....I would guess the expansion valve was stuck open.
Normal air outlet temp is around 5C, any lower and ice forms on the evaporator which blocks the airflow so is prevented from happening by a temp sensor on the expansion valve.

160

Omega General Help / Re: swapping headlamps

« on: 29 June 2010, 17:11:33 »

Cheers Varche that link was superb ,am i right in thinking that if the inner light fitment wobbles  the adjusters are cabbaged and the only way to repair them is by removing the lens cover and replacing them with the aluminium ones ,does that make sense or am i being a helmet :

Spot on.
Any good adjusters you find are will probably break when you have to change a bulb.
You can use the excellent new aluminium adjusters available through the forum or fabricate your own or try to repair the old ones (if you can find the bits)
I have tried all 3 approaches, they all work but the new adjusters are quickest and easiest to do.

161

Omega General Help / Re: swapping headlamps

« on: 27 June 2010, 21:30:45 »

Check the adjusters are OK before you go to the trouble of fitting the lamps.
Replacement aluminium adjusters and a fitting guide on the forum if they are broken.

162

Omega General Help / Re: Car wandering

« on: 27 June 2010, 21:08:17 »

Get someone to wiggle the steering wheel whilst you feel all the joints (engine running). Any play in the ball joints is fairly obvious if you put your hand over the joint.
The idler tends to move vertically if the bush is worn.
Wishbone bushes usually give symptoms under brakeing long before you notice steering wander.
Is there any free play in the steering at straight ahead?  if so you could try the adjuster on the top of the steering box, hold the centre torx screw while undoing the lock nut (dont use a ratchet on the torx, use something rigid such as a t-bar) then tighten the screw 1/8 of a turn only. If this improves things, try another 1/8th turn but if there is any hint of stiffness or reluctance to self centre then reverse the adjustment.

163

Omega General Help / Re: V6 Aux belt - grrrrrrrr

« on: 27 June 2010, 20:58:32 »

did you check that the belt was centred on all the pulleys? If it was one ridge out on one pulley it wont self centre and would eventually wear the edge away.

164

Omega General Help / Re: alternator flat battery no battery light problem.

« on: 18 June 2010, 21:33:56 »

I would suspect the alternator voltage regulator has died. What voltage did you see when you revved the engine?
If it blew a headlight bulb it could also have blown the ignition (alternator really)  warning lamp.
The battery could well be faulty as well, if an internal joint in the battery fails it means there is nothing to damp the alternator output which can be a cause of regulator failures. On the other hand, if the regulator fails the battery is overcharged and vents off all its electrolyte which cant be replaced as they are sealed.

165

Omega General Help / Re: vacuum leak on X30XE

« on: 02 June 2010, 09:59:06 »

Check the throttles are closing fully as suggested.
O rings dislodged under plennum?
Breather bridge fancy seal damaged or dislodged?
Brake servo fault?...block the vac pipe to prove.