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[05omegav6]

As above, '99 2.0 Manual...

Has fuel, cranks, but doesn't fire.

When key is turned to position 2 all the gauges max and return to zero... Might do this twenty times, then needles don't move for next few attempts... Only noticed it doing this since trying to start it...

Thought I might have flooded it as last journey was barely a third of a mile, but plugs are all dry, which suggests no fuel supply 

That said it might not switch the fuel pump until it's running... Is injection so fuel rail contents will allow it to catch, with the ecu then switching the pump on...

Not previously had any issues with it, but journeys do tend to be 10-25 miles or longer.

[Crazycarzowner]

I had this on SWMBO 2000 plate focus, if I remember rightly, it was the fuel pump relay, common problem on older foci I believe 

[05omegav6]

I had this on SWMBO 2000 plate focus, if I remember rightly, it was the fuel pump relay, common problem on older foci I believe 

Might swap it for a headlight one next to it in fuse box and see what happens...

Car finally started and now home, but still waiting for recovery to attend

[Crazycarzowner]

It could be the start of a failing fuel pump, when ours wouldn't start I collared one of me mates who works for Ford & he said that if the pump starts to go, firstly it takes out the relay or fuse, if you replace them you could be fine for a while before the pump has a fit & blows the fuse or relay again. Ours lasted once replaced and as far as I know it is still going.

You should be able to hear the pump priming at second stage of ignition.

[Nick W]

The fuel pump should prime if you just turn the ignition on.
The fuel pump inertia switch is in the drivers A-post kick panel. Just press it; if it resets then you've found the problem.
The fuel pump fuse is No12(15amp)  in the engine bay fuse box.


Focus fuel pumps are notoriously fickle unreliable, and often blow the fuse before the pump fails completely. Replacing the fuse sometimes works for months. Sometimes it works for a couple of starts.


Fuel pump is in the tank, and there is no access panel; you have to drop the tank.


You can buy the pump separately, although Ford will only sell you the whole assembly.

[TD]

It could be the start of a failing fuel pump, when ours wouldn't start I collared one of me mates who works for Ford & he said that if the pump starts to go, firstly it takes out the relay or fuse, if you replace them you could be fine for a while before the pump has a fit & blows the fuse or relay again. Ours lasted once replaced and as far as I know it is still going.

You should be able to hear the pump priming at second stage of ignition.

Not quite sure what you mean 'second stage of ignition', but I agree as soon as ignition lights are on, fuel pump should run. If no attempt is made to start it, fuel pump will switch off after about 10-15 secs. So really its a two person job.....one to turn ign on, one to listen to the fuel pump. Or for a one person job, you could undo the fuel pipe going to the injection rail, then turn the ign on.....it will be obvious if the pump is working or not 

[TD]

The fuel pump should prime if you just turn the ignition on.
The fuel pump inertia switch is in the drivers A-post kick panel. Just press it; if it resets then you've found the problem.
The fuel pump fuse is No12(15amp)  in the engine bay fuse box.


Focus fuel pumps are notoriously fickle unreliable, and often blow the fuse before the pump fails completely. Replacing the fuse sometimes works for months. Sometimes it works for a couple of starts.


Fuel pump is in the tank, and there is no access panel; you have to drop the tank.


You can buy the pump separately, although Ford will only sell you the whole assembly.

My last post was written before I saw Nick's in depth reply.....

However its a buggar if theres no access panel.....the fuel pump on my 2.2 gave up (probably because it was converted to LPG, so when it was running on LPG, the fuel pump was under more strain than normal  )
It was quite straight forward to swap it out with a pump from a scrap 2.0 

[Nick W]

Not quite sure what you mean 'second stage of ignition', but I agree as soon as ignition lights are on, fuel pump should run. If no attempt is made to start it, fuel pump will switch off after about 10-15 secs. So really its a two person job.....one to turn ign on, one to listen to the fuel pump. Or for a one person job, you could undo the fuel pipe going to the injection rail, then turn the ign on.....it will be obvious if the pump is working or not 

It's much easier to unscrew the cap for the test port and push the valve in! After you've done the ign check, and the pump is audible from the driver's door even with passing traffic. Been to loads like this, and just checked on my mother's car outside


The pump is such a pain to change that a new one is a good idea, something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-FORD-FOCUS-MK1-1-4-1-6-1-8-2-0-1998-2005-IN-TANK-PETROL-FUEL-PUMP-/221357704622?fits=Car+Make%3AFord%7CModel%3AFocus&hash=item3389f285ae:g:KesAAOSw0HVWBUgN

[05omegav6]

Fuel rail holds pressure, and pump runs to prime it, shutting off in good order. Fuse 12 in good condition, no evidence of scorching or any other malevolence...

Car restarted first turn of the key...

If it were an Omega I would be thinking crank sensor

Thanks for the pump link

[Nick W]

Fuel rail holds pressure, and pump runs to prime it, shutting off in good order. Fuse 12 in good condition, no evidence of scorching or any other malevolence...

Car restarted first turn of the key...

If it were an Omega I would be thinking crank sensor

Thanks for the pump link

Crank sensor is a common problem on anything that has one. The cure is common too; buy a genuine one.


I do think that you have a fuel pump that is starting to fail. This usually happens when the car won't start, and not cutting out.


It's worth having some spare 15amp fuses in the car.


That link was the first one I came across that sold the pump separately.

[TheBoy]

I vaguely recall from when I was unfortunate enough to have a Focus that the ECUs were prone to failure as well - though I believe (apart from the intermittent no faster than idle rpm) it was always terminal rather than intermittent.

[zirk]

Prone to inlet flap failure and air leaks around the flap spindle (theres a mod for this). ECU also gets confused and relearns fuel / throttle cable position too early. especially after a ICV clean.

Try dissing the ECU or battery for an hour, then if it starts from cold rev to 2k for 2 mins, and leave to idle, if revving above 600 - 800 put on full lock whilst warming up. then do a restart from cold.

[T.m.f]

If gauges are sweeping when ignition is switched on,this normally points to a duff battery.

[05omegav6]

If gauges are sweeping when ignition is switched on,this normally points to a duff battery.

No idea on battery age, but it turns it over fine