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[Doctor Gollum]

Right, garage ceiling is down. 

Before it gets replaced, I want to take the opportunity to sort the wiring for shower room and utility additions within the garage.

I know where the stud walls/doors are going to be and the plumbing is basically in place. Wish to add a couple of sockets for the utility room (to replace an existing extension cord for the washer and dryer... Currently share a plug on the opposite wall), and a separate light for the utility and shower room (with extractor).

1. Is it acceptable to run spurs from the lighting and 13A rings, or better to extend the rings to include the new sockets/lights?

2. Also want to use the long since redundant 30A shower feed as an industrial socket in the garage. It has its own breaker switch in the fusebox. Would one of  Theses... suffice?

[biggriffin]

Personally, I'm not qualified,
1 extended ring main and spur off, or install new consumer unit, and run new to were you require.
2 yes, get a higher amp one

[dave the builder]

Right, garage ceiling is down. 

Before it gets replaced, I want to take the opportunity to sort the wiring for shower room and utility additions within the garage.

I know where the stud walls/doors are going to be and the plumbing is basically in place. Wish to add a couple of sockets for the utility room (to replace an existing extension cord for the washer and dryer... Currently share a plug on the opposite wall), and a separate light for the utility and shower room (with extractor).

1. Is it acceptable to run spurs from the lighting and 13A rings, or better to extend the rings to include the new sockets/lights?

 lighting will be a radial circuit ,if wired 3 plate ,you can just extend the radial to another 3 plate rose 
a twin socket spured with 2.5 twin n earth will run a washer and dryer providing the ring you are spuring off meters out ok

2. Also want to use the long since redundant 30A shower feed as an industrial socket in the garage. It has its own breaker switch in the fusebox. Would one of  Theses... suffice?

As the cable is probably 6mm and fused at 30 amps, you may as well fit a 32a socket if you intend to run an electric metal snot machine or similar clicky
remember you won't have local isolation at the socket (unless you fit a 45amp double pole switch ) and the MCB in the consumer unit only offers single pole isolation , and anything plugged in will need to be appropriately fused ,32 amp plug to twin trailing socket adapter for example .

assuming you have a recent consumer unit with MCB and RCD protection

[Broomies Mate]

Just a small thing to consider;

Although not in the regs, most Extractors should be fitted with an isolator for maintenance.

[Doctor Gollum]

Just a small thing to consider;

Although not in the regs, most Extractors should be fitted with an isolator for maintenance.

It will be an inline fan and located in the utility room, so will by definition be isolated at the switch

[dave the builder]

unless it has a permanent live feed for over run timer
and neutral won't be isolated in any event without fitting a double pole switch

as it's in a utility room ,not a bath room you could fit a double pole switched fused spur to run just the fan
or, if you wish to switch the light and fan together on the same switch (with or without over run timer) then run the line/live and neutral into a double pole switched fused spur ,then wire the light and fan after  (fused appropriately- remove 13a ,replace with 3 or 5a )
crabtree spur

[Doctor Gollum]

 

That makes sense

I need/want to move a double socket due to a door location conflict, so may as well extend the ring to include the utility sockets...

[Lizzie Zoom]

I would add DG that fully compliant, up to date with 18th Edition Regs, earth bonding is carried out connecting all metal pipes and fittings in the bathroom area, with these being fed to the earth connection of the immersion outlet, or electric shower feed, not back to the main consumer unit.

 

[dave the builder]

I doubt DG will be doing any electricary work in the bathroom himself (it's an insurance claim IIRC )
no doubt all the new pipework will be plastic anyway,bath probably acrylic or fiberglass, with the exception of any existing towel rail or radiator .

To Bond or not to Bond
combi boilers tend to be bonded at the boiler, with plastic water pipe and RCD protection to 16th edition+ , Supplementary bonding in bathrooms becomes pointless ,especially with no electric shower ,IP64 lighting

IF on the other hand, DG still has a 1970's wylex rewirable fuse box  he should take to washing in a bucket outside 

[Doctor Gollum]

Insurance part of job is all done bar the replacement of the garage space ceiling. House was completely rewired in 2000, so no more wire fuses

Combi boiler hence using the shower 30a for garage toys... so only electricity in the new (additional) shower room is a light (either suitable halogen spots or an led panel. Shower room light switch will be in the utility (I say utility, but only plumbing is the washing machine and plumbing is pre existing and all in order.

Basically, the garage is being split in three, separate, spaces. Plumbing was put in place several years ago, so it's just wiring and studwork to do before the final finishing 

Oh, and the small matter of knocking through from the hall

[dad1uk]

and the small matter of knocking through from the hall
What could possibly go wrong???

[Doctor Gollum]

Non supporting block work... Anything is possible 

[Lizzie Zoom]

I doubt DG will be doing any electricary work in the bathroom himself (it's an insurance claim IIRC )
no doubt all the new pipework will be plastic anyway,bath probably acrylic or fiberglass, with the exception of any existing towel rail or radiator .

To Bond or not to Bond
combi boilers tend to be bonded at the boiler, with plastic water pipe and RCD protection to 16th edition+ , Supplementary bonding in bathrooms becomes pointless ,especially with no electric shower ,IP64 lighting

IF on the other hand, DG still has a 1970's wylex rewirable fuse box  he should take to washing in a bucket outside 

Plastic?  PLASTIC?

Wash your mouth out Dave!

I am a traditionalist and have and always will use good old copper and brass when I plumb in anything  (just doing an electric shower installation job now, and did a radiator installation last week) as I believe in doing a proper job with materials tried and tested, and good old fashioned soldering,  NEVER push fit rubbish!  I know once I have finished the job it could last 50+ year at least, but does anyone know how long all this PLASTIC stuff will keep together without splitting or joints failing?

Still, I am an old fashioned girl, so no doubt all the modernists amoungst you will scream "plastic is no problem Liz!!"

[Doctor Gollum]

Plumbing for the shower that replaced the bath is plastic, but the garage one is going to be copper.

[Lizzie Zoom]

Plumbing for the shower that replaced the bath is plastic, but the garage one is going to be copper.

Good choice DG!

[Sir Tigger KC]

My mate had a new combi boiler fitted in the attic and after about 6 months a push fit joint let go!    You can imagine the mess! 

[Lizzie Zoom]

My mate had a new combi boiler fitted in the attic and after about 6 months a push fit joint let go!    You can imagine the mess! 

.....and that is exactly the type of stories I have heard about the push fits and why I will never use them.

[dave the builder]

If you don't like push fit .......


use compression fittings and inserts with plastic pipe then 

I still use Ye Olde copper on central heating systems and all gas (plus the use of Tracpipe ,which is plastic coated stainless steel )
BUT for water ,John Guest fittings are well made ,
leaks happen when people damage the O rings by NOT cutting the pipe cleanly ,or run boilers at stupid high temperatures

[Andy B]

I had a radiator's feed & return pipework altered last year & the plumber used plastic  ..... it was done by the time I came home from work. I'll get around to replacing it with copper ..... one day 

[dave the builder]

I had a radiator's feed & return pipework altered last year & the plumber used plastic  ..... it was done by the time I came home from work. I'll get around to replacing it with copper ..... one day 

as long as there is 1 meter of copper pipe at the boiler manifold on the flow and return ,and you keep the central heating circulating at a sensible temp (70 degrees) all should be grand 
so don't turn your boiler up to "ELEVEN"     

[Sir Tigger KC]

I had a radiator's feed & return pipework altered last year & the plumber used plastic  ..... it was done by the time I came home from work. I'll get around to replacing it with copper ..... when it starts leaking! 

FTFY Andy! 

[Andy B]

I had a radiator's feed & return pipework altered last year & the plumber used plastic  ..... it was done by the time I came home from work. I'll get around to replacing it with copper ..... one day 

as long as there is 1 meter of copper pipe at the boiler manifold on the flow and return ,and you keep the central heating circulating at a sensible temp (70 degrees) all should be grand 
so don't turn your boiler up to "ELEVEN"     

The radiator is probably as far from the boiler as you can get. The plastic is mostly hidden behind the couch but I know it's there & I'm not keen on the idea of plastic either 

[Andy B]

I had a radiator's feed & return pipework altered last year & the plumber used plastic  ..... it was done by the time I came home from work. I'll get around to replacing it with copper ..... when it starts leaking! 

FTFY Andy! 

Probably! 

[Doctor Gollum]

I had a radiator's feed & return pipework altered last year & the plumber used plastic  ..... it was done by the time I came home from work. I'll get around to replacing it with copper ..... one day 

as long as there is 1 meter of copper pipe at the boiler manifold on the flow and return ,and you keep the central heating circulating at a sensible temp (70 degrees) all should be grand 
so don't turn your boiler up to "ELEVEN"     

Instructions of our Vailant suggest not going past 4.5 as we're in a hard water area

[dave the builder]

don't turn your boiler up to "ELEVEN"     

Instructions of our Vailant suggest not going past 4.5 as we're in a hard water area

the eleven I quoted was not a boiler setting ,it's from the film Spinal Tap ,
Nigel Tufnel proudly demonstrates the guitar amplifiers volume knobs are marked from zero to eleven, not just 10   
my Worcester Bosch only goes up to 6 ,but it's set at 4 ,
though Mrs Builder has the DHW (hot water) set to the "melt human flesh" setting quite often 

[Nick W]

My mate had a new combi boiler fitted in the attic and after about 6 months a push fit joint let go!    You can imagine the mess! 

.....and that is exactly the type of stories I have heard about the push fits and why I will never use them.

yet it's much easier to screwup metal pipe and soldered joints......

[Doctor Gollum]

don't turn your boiler up to "ELEVEN"     

Instructions of our Vailant suggest not going past 4.5 as we're in a hard water area

the eleven I quoted was not a boiler setting ,it's from the film Spinal Tap ,
Nigel Tufnel proudly demonstrates the guitar amplifiers volume knobs are marked from zero to eleven, not just 10   
my Worcester Bosch only goes up to 6 ,but it's set at 4 ,
though Mrs Builder has the DHW (hot water) set to the "melt human flesh" setting quite often 

I got the reference 

No complaints re temp though, 38 is fine for a splash, and hotter for a soak

[zirk]

Personally, I'm not qualified,

I'm not qualified either, but it didn't stop me from wiring all my lights in the home off the street light outside, it's brilliant all the lights come on when the sun goes down, downside is it all goes dark and gets switched off at 1 oclock in the morning.

[ronnyd]

Personally, I'm not qualified,

I'm not qualified either, but it didn't stop me from wiring all my lights in the home off the street light outside, it's brilliant all the lights come on when the sun goes down, downside is it all goes dark and gets switched off at 1 oclock in the morning.