Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Allenm on 17 July 2006, 13:52:46
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On Saturday, driving (slowly) round local roads, there was a horrible noise, then the whole car started shuddering, EM light flashing like mad, then died.
Called the AA out who listned to it, and proclaimed it to sound like the timing belt had slipped and pistons were hitting valves!!! :'(
I have towed it into the local VX garage for confirmation of the actual problem, but working on the assumption that the cambelt has gone what are my best options.
The car is a 1999 V Reg 2.5 Petrol CDX Manual - 135K on the clock, is it likely to have enough value to make it worth repairing?
Do I just walk away and look for a new car? or
What would be of value to remove from the car? bearing in mind that I am no engineer and wouldn't have the tools to remove anything serious.
Any thoughts?
Merv
PS. In answer to the obvious questions, yes the change was overdue, so my own stupid fault! Sods law, I spent so long looking for a replacement (how do you replace an omega)! that the basics were being neglected :-[ I hang my head in shame and stand up as a lesson as to why Cambelt changes are a REAL requirement.
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Where abouts is it?
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Crownhill, Milton Keynes
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PS. In answer to the obvious questions, yes the change was overdue, so my own stupid fault! Sods law, I spent so long looking for a replacement (how do you replace an omega)! that the basics were being neglected :-[ I hang my head in shame and stand up as a lesson as to why Cambelt changes are a REAL requirement.
You said it!! ::)
However, I feel for you as had cambelt go on one of my previous cars a few years ago. Wanted to cry when I got reair bill :'(
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Crownhill, Milton Keynes
Oh no, not those bloody cowboys >:(
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Hmmm......they will probably quote 2.5K ish for a new engine.....a pair of second hand heads, gasket kit and a weekend should see it done......ow yes, dont forget the cambelt kit.
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Crownhill, Milton Keynes
Oh no, not those bloody cowboys >:(
I know!! I just couldn't think of where else to say when the AA guy asked me where to take it to. Plus given how much money the sods have had off me for this car, I figured it may help my bargaining position with them if I get another car there.
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Sorry to hear of your bad luck would it not be possible to get a second hand engine fitted only some breakers offer to fit aswell might be worth asking.
HTH
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That's bad news, being 5 minutes away (Haversham) I wish I could help, but spare hours are rare at present. Given that Crownhill may not give you too much for it, is it worth parking it up on your driveway and doing as Mark says, but take your time about it? Its not really old enough to scrap and it would be a good way of learning.
J
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I agree with archermk if thats an option. Of course, if you're taking your time, you may have to get a temporary run around....
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If you go the DIY route it will probably drive all the better for having it done.
Plus knowing that you have done all the work will be a big bonus.
Good Luck which ever way you go.
Roy
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Do I smell a head changing party!
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I guess I am somewhat at the mercy of what the garage tell me!
If they say "yep, cam belt gone new engine job" how would I know what
would be required, or is it as simple as Mark's list.
When I say I am no engineer, I mean it, I don't even follow the how-tos with any great understanding, and have no tools for car work at all.
But a head changing party could be a great idea. I could easily supply the bacon butties and a bottomless vat of tea, and after party beers! ;)
Hell, I could even video the work for the ultimate in how-to entries.
As for doing it, what the hell is a plenum exactly? :-?
Merv
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I would say that with 3 guys it could be done in a day easy, it takes two people about 2 hours to remove a set of heads.....
Vx headgaskets are about 40 quid plus 20 for the bolts, 45 for the cam cover gaskets, oil cooler goo (because its easy), 30 quid for other seals etc, 100 quid for a pair of heads (clean and prep before hand) 80 quid for cambelt kit 20 quid for water pump 20 quid for oil, filter and antifreeze.
So about 350 quid.....
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I'd be willing to do some of the grunt work, as its not too far from me, but it would need someone cleverer than me to be supervising it all....
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I wouldn't mind either coming over if only to lend my tools.
V6 closest I have been so far is looked under the bonnet and driven one, scary place imo lol ;D
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I would be up for this, might even have the heads. (MarkDTM will be able to advise).
can bring tools!
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can i come and watch???????
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If this actually comes to anything then can I just say you lot have restored my faith in human nature. :D
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if its any use i have a FWD V6 for sale £100
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Count me in, I've done the job, let me know in advance 2 weeks if possible I'll bring my tools and we'll set a new record as the NEW Omega Team
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I am well up for this. :)
Would be a great days work with a few of us and we would all learn from it (Mark excepted).
Alan would be a benefit too because he has done exactly the same job.
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Well guys, what can I say - I am humbled :)
When the garage phone me tomorrow and confirm the worst, I will post
an update and we will see where we go from there.
You guys rock!
Merv
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Me too !!! I'm in Northampton, but i would also need a supervisor on hand !!!
Le tme know if i can do any spannering etc
Mark
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Me too !!! I'm in Northampton, but i would also need a supervisor on hand !!!
Le tme know if i can do any spannering etc
Mark
Why not.. me too!! I live just down the road from TheBoy. Just about to do my first oil change so steep learning curve for me, but willing to lend a hand!
Peeerfect chance to shoe horn a V8 into the Omega :)
Failing that, nice juicy 3.0
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It is nice to read of so many offers of help
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I would also offer to come and help / watch & learn but rather fear there is probably enough people already.
Best of luck and hope the damage is not too far reaching!
What a great community spirt this is!!!!!!!!!! ;D
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fantasic isn't it? Wonder if there is a World Record for the amount of people working one 1 vauxhall omega at anyone time! ;D
If it is a replacement engine on the cards, it would be fantasic for everyone to learn bits about the car (apart from MarksDTM) ;)
I would be interest in Cambelt replacement, its not something that needs doing now but would be usefull for the future.
We could also create a shed load of Maintaince guides too
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Depends if he wants us all there at one time LLOOL
Everyone could do something , even if it was polishing the car whilst the experts fix the engine, it would be like " pimp my ride, in Milton Keynes " ahahahhahahaha hehehhehehe
Mark
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We wait with anticipation what those lying b*st*rds at Evans Halshaw say about it..... ....not that I would believe them anyway...
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Just rang them, apparently it is booked in for the 21st!!!!! :o
Nice of them on monday to say today. >:(
Why I am surprised is beyond me, I should be used to them by now!
Guess I better start looking for a cheap run around that will cope with
lots of motorway miles!
Sigh!
Merv
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Do me a favour, speak to Jim Grayson at the following address.....
JG Automotive - specialist Vauxhall diagnostics & servicing
5 Whaddon Road
Shenley Brook End
Milton Keynes
Buckinghamshire
MK5 7AF
Tel: 01908 501530
Email graysonjim@aol.com
Jim used to work at the Vaux college and realy does know his stuff.......its worth getting him to look at it for you. Re-reading your original post and not normaly trusting most RAC/AA personel, it might be something else.
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OK Mark, will do.
I'll ring him in the morning. Would he be able to recover the car from Crownhill, or do I need another tow?
If I need another tow, any recommendations on towing an omega without a rigid bar?
Cheers
Merv
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How far would it have to go? I know Shenley Brook End is a couple of miles from Crownhill, but what about to your gaff if necessary...
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I always just use a normal tow rope if its not too far...
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My gaff is a couple of miles from crownhill, just aware that the brakes are going to be pretty useless without the servo helping out. Would hate to smack into the back of the person towing!!
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steering will be shit as well - but I've been towed on a rope in my MV6, and its not as bad as you may imagine...
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Towed my old man from Atherton to Preston - around 25 miles. Lol - just did the route on theaa.co.uk, obviously no motorway since towing - route says it all ("roundabout, roundabout, roundabout, roundabout..."). No incidents, despite rush-hour saturday through Chorley (more roundabouts, roundabouts...) but after 2-3 hrs towing I'd never do it again.
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Yeah 30 miles is about furthest I've ever towed on a rope...
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Towed the estate from Manchester to Nottingham via the M6 and A50.......the brakes need pressing harder and the steering is heavy but, easily do able.
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Nip into Machine Mart, they do a steel tow pole with spring damping for £23 inc.
Used it a few times now and would not revert to a rope.
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OK, Update time...
As per Mark DTM's advice, I rang Jim Glayson this morning, his initial thoughts were that the belt had slipped, but was surprised that it would start. His first advice was to get it out of the garage it is in, so phoned them up to check they hadn't started and had a chat with the service manager, he said it would be a new engine job at a cost of .. wait for it...
£3,495 :o
So I told them not to bother even looking at it and I will get some help and tow it home at the weekend.
Jim doesn't have a workshop, so I will have to get him round to my place to diagnose the fault.
The question is.. What I am looking for from Jim, is "cambelt gone" enough? or do I need to get a more thorough diagnosis in order to know what would required for a "head change party".
Sorry to be a bit of a numpty here, but I am abit (well alot) out of my depth here, and don't want to waste peoples time.
Also, where would I get second hand heads from etc??
Cheers
Merv
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Simply ask Jim to diagnose it....he realy knows his stuff.
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If the belt has slipped but it still runs not that I am a pro but surely thats a good thing.
I guess its dependent on how many teeth its slipped on the belt.
The man Marks DTM has put you onto should be able to help more from the sounds of it.
Just my tuppence worth hope it goes your way.
Good luck
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Got the keys off EH so they can't start ripping it apart, will tow it home at the weekend and get Jim out to have a look.
Will keep you posted!
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Managed to tow it home without any incidents using a normal tow rope. So it is now back on the drive and I will ask Jim to come and diagnose it next week.
I'll let you know what the verdict is..
Merv
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Keep us posted......tools are at the ready!
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Absolutely, my tools are at the ready also, and with Mark's brains, this should be a good job done...
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Right - Update time again.
Jim came round this afternoon to have a look, he couldn't start it, but did connect it up to Tech2 which reported an error in the cam timing which, based on what symptoms I described, he suggested that indeed the belt had slipped.
It did not appear to have caused visible damage, and the fact I was only going about 10mph when it went was encouraging. He did suggest that there was an outside chance that it might just need a new belt,rollers etc but this was very very unlikely.
So... over to the experts, what are the next steps in the head change party?
Cheers
Merv
PS. In case anyone still thinks that main dealer servicing is a good thing, Jim was fairly appalled at the state of basic things under the bonnet, corners cut a plenty!!
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One for Marks_DTM to comment on methinks...
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You said it made a noise when it happened - can you describe the noise...
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To be honest I would struggle, it all happened rather sharpish. All I can say was that it was not a bang, more of whoosh, i just about had time to think "what the hell was that" when the car started shuddering, lost all power and started sounding like a poorly tractor.
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How good are you with the spanners, could you strip the inlet system and cam cover?
Alternatively you could remove the inlet trunking, set the bottom pulley to TDC and then remove the two bolts holding the upper cam belt cover to look at the cam timing marks.
If thats still a bit hard, remove the two bolts from the top of the cam cover, ease it open slightly so you can see the belt and get some body to quickly turn the engine over (mind your fingers!). If the belt moves then you know its at least still in one piece!
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I could follow instructions, but I don't actually know the name of the parts, so would need pictures.
If no special tools were required, I could have a go. Mailed or faxed pictures would be a help.
Cheers
Merv
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I could follow instructions, but I don't actually know the name of the parts, so would need pictures.
If no special tools were required, I could have a go. Mailed or faxed pictures would be a help.
Cheers
Merv
If there is any kind of "party" were our resident Omega Google's are around, I may, may! be bringing a V6 needing a new cambelt and tensionrs myself
I have the basic tools (Torx and sockets) and happy to give you a hand with your car as well. Maybe we could club together and get some beer suppliys for DTM to tempt him down! ;)
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You can get away with replacing the valves - done loads of them - yes the valve guides crack - but only the few mm that go into the ports so with new valve stem seals fitted there's no problem - new valves you can get from Ebay at around £7 each, A head set from ebay will cost around £50 just don't use the exhaust manifold gaskets or the cam cover gaskets - go to Vm for those. head bolts are around £22 also from ebay.
The job including removing and changing / re-seating 24 valves, valve stem seals takes us one and half days to complete - (and thats 2 blokes who know the engine like the back of your hand) this would be cut down if you could get hold of some good second hand heads to a long 12 hour day.
Best to get hold of some spare exhaust manifolds as theres a good chance of the studs breaking off.
also most of the ones i have done in the past have damaged the cam- gears, usually the 2-4-6 bank ones go - the cam location pin area elongates- if you are really unlucky the cam location pin cracks he camshaft - but that is rare.
The cam gears can be fitted on the other cam - so you can get out of jail free on that one
On Saturday, driving (slowly) round local roads, there was a horrible noise, then the whole car started shuddering, EM light flashing like mad, then died.
Called the AA out who listned to it, and proclaimed it to sound like the timing belt had slipped and pistons were hitting valves!!! :'(
I have towed it into the local VX garage for confirmation of the actual problem, but working on the assumption that the cambelt has gone what are my best options.
The car is a 1999 V Reg 2.5 Petrol CDX Manual - 135K on the clock, is it likely to have enough value to make it worth repairing?
Do I just walk away and look for a new car? or
What would be of value to remove from the car? bearing in mind that I am no engineer and wouldn't have the tools to remove anything serious.
Any thoughts?
Merv
PS. In answer to the obvious questions, yes the change was overdue, so my own stupid fault! Sods law, I spent so long looking for a replacement (how do you replace an omega)! that the basics were being neglected :-[ I hang my head in shame and stand up as a lesson as to why Cambelt changes are a REAL requirement.
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If you turn the engine over by hand (E20 socket on the crank pulley bolt) you can feel if the valves have gone - a sudden lack of compression.
If you can take the upper and lower manifolds off you can see the inlet valves - they are the normal culprits on a V6.
I have seen as little as four bent valves to 16 or all 24 - fixed them all though and my mate is still driving one - and he drives like the stig.
Right - Update time again.
Jim came round this afternoon to have a look, he couldn't start it, but did connect it up to Tech2 which reported an error in the cam timing which, based on what symptoms I described, he suggested that indeed the belt had slipped.
It did not appear to have caused visible damage, and the fact I was only going about 10mph when it went was encouraging. He did suggest that there was an outside chance that it might just need a new belt,rollers etc but this was very very unlikely.
So... over to the experts, what are the next steps in the head change party?
Cheers
Merv
PS. In case anyone still thinks that main dealer servicing is a good thing, Jim was fairly appalled at the state of basic things under the bonnet, corners cut a plenty!!
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If thats still a bit hard, remove the two bolts from the top of the cam cover, ease it open slightly so you can see the belt and get some body to quickly turn the engine over (mind your fingers!). If the belt moves then you know its at least still in one piece!
This sounds like it may be possible :-[
Are these the two bolts you are referring to?
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200291-1.jpg)
What sort of bolt is that? The Halfords kit that was being discussed in an earlier thread, does it have a part number or specific name? sounds like I might need more than my adjustable spanner ;D
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That is a torx bolt...
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E12 I think......
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Are they the right bolts then?
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Yes, many bolts are torx on modern cars...
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What I mean to ask, is are they the two bolts Mark was referring to?
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Yes they are, this will allow you to ease the top of the cover open and see the cam belt on the cam sprockets.
With this done, get some body to briefly crank the engine and check the belt turns....
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Replied but post disapeared so try again.
Does anyone have a spare pair of 2.5 heads???
Issunaz??
Is there anyone local to you who could help you to remove the cambelt cover to confirm diagnosis of snapped or stripped belt?
I am thinking that we would want to repair this in a single day, and that if the belt is broken or stripped then valves will be bent, regardless of speed at the time. Re-valving your heads will take too long so I suggest you try to get a pair of replacement heads.
If you find some heads then I am prepared to refurbish them ready for fitting, re-lap valves, nes stem seals etc.
Then it should be a simple job of off with the old, on with the new......Ha.
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OK, Just nipped off to motorserv and am now the proud owner of some Torx sockets 8-)
Removed the two bolts and got the missus to turn over the engine, the belt is still there and turning away.
The car will not start, but there is no horrible noises when it turns over. I presume that there is a stored error on the crankshaft timing that the ECU is preventing it from starting.
What's next? I now have the sockets (nearly a qualified Vx mechanic ;)) !
Merv
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Replied but post disapeared so try again.
Does anyone have a spare pair of 2.5 heads???
Issunaz??
Is there anyone local to you who could help you to remove the cambelt cover to confirm diagnosis of snapped or stripped belt?
I am thinking that we would want to repair this in a single day, and that if the belt is broken or stripped then valves will be bent, regardless of speed at the time. Re-valving your heads will take too long so I suggest you try to get a pair of replacement heads.
If you find some heads then I am prepared to refurbish them ready for fitting, re-lap valves, nes stem seals etc.
Then it should be a simple job of off with the old, on with the new......Ha.
Pete,
Thanks for the offer, if this is needed then that would be great! I wouldn't have a clue what to do with them!
Cheers
Merv
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I'd be inclined to take entire cam cover off and seeing it its just slipped a tooth or 2... ... not sure how much tolerance there is before pistons and valves have a little chat...
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I'd be inclined to take entire cam cover off and seeing it its just slipped a tooth or 2... ... not sure how much tolerance there is before pistons and valves have a little chat...
If I can do this with the newly acquired torx sockets, I am prepared to give it a go, but would need a bit of step by step of what is involved, preferably with pictures as I don't know the names of the parts.
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Yes they are, this will allow you to ease the top of the cover open and see the cam belt on the cam sprockets.
With this done, get some body to briefly crank the engine and check the belt turns....
Done this, the belt turns. What's the next step?
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Can you see the markings on the cam pulleys, and do they line up with marking on the backplate (might need to try to get engine to stop near TDC) - do they look more or less in line (backplate markings not hugely accurate).
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If I can do this with the newly acquired torx sockets, I am prepared to give it a go, but would need a bit of step by step of what is involved, preferably with pictures as I don't know the names of the parts.[/quote]
There is a good 'How to' on changing cambelts on the 'Other Place' (www.vauhallownersnetwork.co.uk) which has pics and will guide you on removing the cover.
If you get the cover off then turn the crank to TDC and check the cam timing marks (this is all covered in the How to)
Check the belt for any missing teeth
Look at the tensioner assembly and the idler rollers...have the bearings broken up?
If you find anything could you post some pics?
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There is a good 'How to' on changing cambelts on the 'Other Place' (www.vauhallownersnetwork.co.uk) which has pics and will guide you on removing the cover.
Anyone got a link for the how2 with pics, I've just been looking, can't seem to find it.
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http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/showthread.php?t=63883
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I saw that one, no pictures :-/ not sure I could follow that.
I appreciate I am being something of a nuisance numpty with this, I have ordered a Haynes and hopefully that will help me identify the parts referred to and let me follow this.
If there is another how2 that has numpty proof pictures please let me know.
Cheers
Merv
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Sorry, I thought there was a full How-to on the Omega cambelt, I must have been thinking of the cambelt party.
There is a text description by Mark on the Omega Cambelt cover removal http://www.vauxhallownersnetwork.co.uk/showthread.php?t=63883.
There may be more pics in the 'Cambelt Party' thread on vauxhallownersnetwork, I tried to find it for you but the forum search doesnt seem to be working at present.
Looks like we need to do a Maintainance Guide next time a cambelt change is done.
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I guess its too far to tow the car to me in Brackley so we can strip down to check belt...
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Allenm, I'm feeling a bit guilty on this one, being just a few miles away and having done this all recently. However my car is in for its MOT today and I'm away on holiday from tomorrow for 2 weeks. If you are still in a dilemma when I get back I'll pop around & give you a hand. Good luck.
J
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E 10 on the timing cover E12 for the plenum (under the black plastic covers)
for the If thats still a bit hard, remove the two bolts from the top of the cam cover, ease it open slightly so you can see the belt and get some body to quickly turn the engine over (mind your fingers!). If the belt moves then you know its at least still in one piece!
This sounds like it may be possible :-[
Are these the two bolts you are referring to?
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200291-1.jpg)
What sort of bolt is that? The Halfords kit that was being discussed in an earlier thread, does it have a part number or specific name? sounds like I might need more than my adjustable spanner ;D
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Replied but post disapeared so try again.
Does anyone have a spare pair of 2.5 heads???
Issunaz??
they are available if required
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I guess its too far to tow the car to me in Brackley so we can strip down to check belt...
I should be getting my project car this weekend. It will needs its cambelt replaced, done 38k ago & would make the car more saleable... since it won't be my main car, I am going to feel easier taking the thing to bits.
I really want to have a go at doing this myself, now i have a digi camera and could take pictures as i go, upload as I go asking questions. If i get really stuck i am hoping jamie might pop down :D & fix what ever i have broke, but it means we could have a Maintaince Guide with pictures.
AllenM, do you have Skype or MSN? - Maybe we could do a Maintaince Conferance! ;D
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If you look at the other site - under jseaman threads - i did a complete re-build for him - the engine was out of the car - but all the pics are there on how it got it out (not the best method but he managed it) pity the pics couldn't be transfered to this site.
Would be willing to help with this one - but going on holls Friday - don't think the Mrs would be tooo happy if I packed the tool box ;D - though I'm very tempted!!!!!
Then again she did devorce me once!!!! can't afford that again only got married again last year...... long story
I guess its too far to tow the car to me in Brackley so we can strip down to check belt...
I should be getting my project car this weekend. It will needs its cambelt replaced, done 38k ago & would make the car more saleable... since it won't be my main car, I am going to feel easier taking the thing to bits.
I really want to have a go at doing this myself, now i have a digi camera and could take pictures as i go, upload as I go asking questions. If i get really stuck i am hoping jamie might pop down :D & fix what ever i have broke, but it means we could have a Maintaince Guide with pictures.
AllenM, do you have Skype or MSN? - Maybe we could do a Maintaince Conferance! ;D
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Replied but post disapeared so try again.
Does anyone have a spare pair of 2.5 heads???
Issunaz??
they are available if required
Thanks Issunaz, I'll keep you posted on the progress. Going to attempt to strip it down to see the state of the belt and how far it is slipped. Are the heads all the same?
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I guess its too far to tow the car to me in Brackley so we can strip down to check belt...
I should be getting my project car this weekend. It will needs its cambelt replaced, done 38k ago & would make the car more saleable... since it won't be my main car, I am going to feel easier taking the thing to bits.
I really want to have a go at doing this myself, now i have a digi camera and could take pictures as i go, upload as I go asking questions. If i get really stuck i am hoping jamie might pop down :D & fix what ever i have broke, but it means we could have a Maintaince Guide with pictures.
AllenM, do you have Skype or MSN? - Maybe we could do a Maintaince Conferance! ;D
Tunnie
Please take lots of pictures as you go, my biggest problem is that I don't know the name of the parts mentioned in the how2s, so a series of pictures as each bit is removed would be of great help.
Not sure about the maintenance conference, but it sounds a laugh ;D, how about rigging a webcam up to the top of the bonnet and broadcasting a webcast of the process ;)
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I did think about that, but i don't think it will be clear enough. I have an old web cam but its rubbish picture quailty so i doubt you could tell what things are.
Loads of pictures are not a problem, I plan sorting out my garage work bench set my laptop up in there and take shed loads of pictures.
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Hmmm, but could be worth £250 for the inevitable f*** up, caught on camera :)
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;)
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Allenm, sorry, I have been busy away from this forum for a few days, and haven't really been able to follow this thread :(
Is this still the current situation (ie you haven't yet been able to strip down to cambelt)?
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I have been somewhat occupied with fitting a new bathroom suite! What a way to spend a scorching hot weekend!! So the car is still intact on the drive.
I now have a Haines manual for the car although it is only up to T-reg, I assume the engine is still the same! But could do with some better pictures of the strip down process - Anyone?
What tools will I need other than the Torx sockets?
Cheers
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When are you around - I can help you strip down to cambelt. The you can take some piccies, and get some advice from people on here...
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I'm around today and Wednesday. Within reason can make myself around to suit!
How long a job with a capable spannerer?
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To strip down to cambelt, 30mins. Best allow an hour, bound it hit a snag...
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I was thinking about leaving myself a day ;D :-[
in that case, as I said, anytime except tomorrow (tue), unless after 7.
cheers
Merv
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Possibility I may be able to do Wed lunchtime - but it is dependent upon work commitments...
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Ok, let me know! certainly be glad of the help!
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PM me a phone number and an address ;)
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May have to make it later in afternoon, as something has come up at lunchtime, hope that is OK...
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No problem, just grateful for the help!
Did you get my PM with my number?, just give me a call
Cheers
Merv
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yup, got PM. I'll be aiming for 4:30 ish I would expect....
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4.30ish is fine with me. Let me know when you know tomorrow
Cheers
Merv
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Take some pics.....particularly of the timing once set to TDC.
TheBoy has my mobile if you encounter any problems.
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Allenm, do you have a camera, as I have stupidly left mine at home today. Along with my socket set :(
I did remember the cam timing kit, so thats something I suppose. And my phone has a crappy camera on if necessary...
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Yep, I have a digital camera, so can take as many pictures as necessary, I will stick the battery on charge now!
In terms of tools, I have (Dont Laugh!)
E6, E7, E8, E10, E12, E14, E16 Sockets and a handle (No extention bar)
10,12,13,14,17 mm Spanners
Shed loads of allen keys
The rest of my tools are woodworking, plumbing stuff etc.
If I need to get hold of anything else, let me know while the Wife's car is still around!
Cheers
Merv
-
We will need an E20 torx to turn the crank over. Are you able to get one of these?
-
Yep, can get one of those, is that all that is needed? or will it also need an extention bar?
-
I assume you have the rachet? Really can't remember if extension bar needed...
-
Yep I've got a ratchet ;D
I now have an E-20 socket and a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor to make it fit!!
-
Still aiming for around 4:30 ish....
-
Right, Jaime came round this afternoon and helped me strip the engine down to the cambelt (or at least let me watch!!) -
Turning the crank was rather easy and there was a distict lack of compression.
Pictures with it set to TDC and the locking kit installed.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200298.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200299.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200300.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200301.jpg)
Bits from the pully (or tensioner , can't remember which)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200303.jpg)
Over to you Mark!!
-
Just looking at the pictures, they aren't great. It was getting dark and raining. If needs be I can take some more in the morning. Let me know
Merv
-
You might have got away with that......I would fit a new kit and try it....
-
Jaime was concerned about the lack of compression (i.e. next to none), is that likely to have a bearing on that view?
-
I have seen them survive a two tooth slip.....and given it will need a new belt etc any way there is little to loose (an hour or so's work).
Compression would be down any way because the valve timing is out.
-
I have to say that the tensioner looks VERY old...!
-
I have to say that the tensioner looks VERY old...!
:-[
-
I reckon the exhaust cam on the left bank has slipped 3. Also, the exhaust on the right bank seems to have slipped back 1 - is this normal?
There was pretty much 0 compression apart from a small bit just before tdc...
-
I still think suck and see......and hope.
-
OK, I'm busy this weekend, but anyone fancy giving Allenm a hand in Milton Keynes, I'm sure he would be please to hear from you ;)
Mark - whats the easiest way to pull those cams back in to line...? try and use belt?
-
Turn engine over as is to 60 deg before tdc and pop the belt off, the cams will spring but that doesn't matter. Then rotate the cams to the alignment marks and re-fit the locking tools.
Bring crank back to TDC and fit locking tool....then fit belt as usual...
-
mark - do you know which belt kit it needs - it was cold and wet, so i didn't check :-[
-
Did it have a cartridge or metal oil filter.....
It looks like the later version but realy I need an engine number (V5 doc)
-
The engine number is 08339375. Any other info needed, I am with the car so can take pictures etc.
-
9201887 £84.66 + VAT trade club.
-
Allenm, is this something you feel you can tackle with advice here, or do you need help with it?
-
I could maybe tackle it with lots of advice, I could hook up a webcam to a laptop and send proper images via Skype. Some clear pictures of it being done would be the most help, you got an idea yesterday, I am a REAL stranger to that engine bay!!
I suppose the main concern would be if I put on a new belt etc and managed to put the rest of the stuff back together and it didn't work I wouldn't be sure if it was down to my incompetance or that the heads are knackered!
Now if I could just arrange for Nottingham to be 6.4 miles up the M1 instead of 64 :(
Also, just remembered that the connector on the multi-ram was torn aswell when we took it off yesterday, Picture below, anyone know what the part number for this bit is? is it just the rubber elbow or the whole lot needed?
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200305.jpg)
-
Its just a t-piece, though I'm not convinced that the other pipes are long enough. Double check if it looks like a fresh break, but that appears to have been like that, looking at the way the pipes were laying...
-
You may be able to glue it - obviously dont get glue in hole!
-
Had a look at the t-connector, you're right it will probably glue.
Just been reading the haynes on changing the cambelt, and am now not sure it is a job I could tackle :-/
Were any step by step pictures taken at the cambelt party?
-
I have a spare T-piece assembly you can have...
-
Cheers Mark, Might be a bit big to post though, fancy bringing it down ;)
-
The T piece is small ;)
In that camlock kit I left there, there are some instructions... ...might be easier than the long winded Haynes ones...
-
9201887 £84.66 + VAT trade club.
OK, Bite the bullet time!
Sorry this is going to be a long one.. I'll try and break it down a bit.
1. What is in the cambelt kit? Haynes talks about needing new bolts for everything
2. What else needs to be bought? (Water pump) anything else?
3. How do I get these part on TC? do I need a card, or can I just "borrow" a number
or does the card holder need to get the parts
4. Can anyone fairly local to MK ( or Brum at a push) help with the Trade Card
Now it gets scary :-/
5. All the documentation on changing the belt talks about TDC. I can't reconcile the position of things now with TDC, so have no confidence of following the guides. Theboy fitted the locking kit (Thanks mate!) so I am sure it is right, but I don't understand it. Pictures below show the current position of things.
Left hand side
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200307.jpg)
Bottom
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200309.jpg)
Right-hand side
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200313.jpg)
Close ups
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200311.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200312.jpg)
Is this the water pump that also needs doing at the same time?
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200310.jpg)
6. (sorry still going), I can't see any info on changing the tensioners and rollers, it all seems to relate to the belt, any info on this anywhere?
7. Last one honest! The books talk about tightening the bolts to a specfic torque, is this required? and if so, can anyone recommend a cheap torque wrench, I can't seem to find one that goes below 28nm
Sorry for the enormous post. If this needs to be in a new thread please feel free to move it, or tell me to re-post in a new one.
Cheers
Merv
-
That camlock is in wrong place, as cams have slipped.... ....pull it out, and remove the gadget on crack.
Mark posted above about setting to 60 degrees before tdc - follow those instructions.
I currently do not have my TC card, so can't get one. The part no mentioned by mark contains all you need for cambelt. Water pump is about £20 + VAT, and antifreeze is about £7 + VAT (TC prices).
-
Turn engine over as is to 60 deg before tdc and pop the belt off, the cams will spring but that doesn't matter. Then rotate the cams to the alignment marks and re-fit the locking tools.
Bring crank back to TDC and fit locking tool....then fit belt as usual...
Can you put this into language a child would understand :-[ or better still a diagram of what things should look like at each step.
God, I am looking a right thick Basteward on this thread :'(
-
Doing a cambelt change tomorrow so will photo it and post the results as a guide.
-
Doing a cambelt change tomorrow so will photo it and post the results as a guide.
That will be a great help! If you have a camcorder and could vidoe the procedure, I would happily pay for a copy of the tape.
Could you post a picture of the contents of the cambelt kit?
Thanks
Merv
-
The cambelt kit contains (from memory) the belt, the tensioner (which is the tensioner below left hand cams (your failed one) and between the cams), and a roller (halfway down on right).
-
Cam belt kit contains:
Cambelt
Tensioner and upper idle roller on new cast backplate
Lower Idle roller
New lower idle roller spacer
New bolts
-
Thanks for that! I will hang on until I see the results of your change tomorrow (or whenever you post), If there is a chance of a video production (ala Robin Hood), let me know and I will PM you an address for the disc, and paypal you some readies for it and the t-piece.
Cheers
Merv
PS. Anyone able to help with a Trade card?
-
I cannot help with TC at moment - sorry.
-
Allenm pm me your address and I will get a copy of the video(DVD) to you Monday. I think it stands at about an hour and a half at present so will need some serious editing before general release. ;D
-
PM sent :)
Thanks to all for arranging this!! Especially to Mark for becoming a luvvie for the day!! ;D
Cheers
Merv
-
Having read a few post back I maybe able to help with the tool side of it as I have collected quite a few.
Torque wrenches included.
Should save on puchase costs
PM me as I am not that far away.
I maybe able to help.
HTH
-
Whats the continueing saga, nothing posted since the 7th August. I am about to tackle my cambelt?
-
The current status of this sorry saga is..
having stripped down to the check the state of the belt (Thanks to Theboy), it has slipped a couple of teeth. Mark DTM has suggested re-allignment of the cams, new belt and hope like hell.
So the next step is to get the cambelt kit, water pump etc and do the following. Roate the crank to 60 degrees before TDC, Which I am hoping the steps below are correct (Confirmation?).
1. remove the locking tools
2. Turn the crank (clockwise) until the notch mark labelled 1 on the first cam from the left is at approx 8 o'clock.
3. remove the belt
4. turn (by hand?) all the cams until their marks correspond to the notches on the backplate then fit the red and green locks.
5. turn the crack until its TDC point (without a belt on) and fit the locking thing onto the water pump.
6. Change the belt.
7 Put it all back together :-/
8. Turn it over and drive off into the sunset ;D - or not :'(
I will post the results when I have a go, probably this weekend, well lets be honest, I will post loads of really noddy pictures asking where bits go ;D
-
Step 2 is wrong, you need to turn the crank until its 60 deg before TDC, the cams would only be 30 deg before the timing mark ...
You will probably need a torx bit to rotate the cams or grip the pulleys using the old belt.
-
Step 2 is wrong, you need to turn the crank until its 60 deg before TDC, the cams would only be 30 deg before the timing mark ...
Cheers Mark! I suspected that I might have got that bit wrong :(
I now have the parts, so will start this afternoon, 60 deg before TDC I am going to do this.. is this right?
with the locking kit in place (which I assume makes in certain to be at TDC) make a mark on the crank sprocket at 12 o'clock, turn it (through 300 deg) until the mark is at 10 o'clock.
Are there any markings on the crank that I can use to double-check?
-
There are markings on the crank and pulley but, they are not easy to spot, with the locking kit fitted its at TDC.
Better to make a mark.
-
confidence is the key to success, before I tackled the oil cooler problem I had never worked on an engine containing a multitude of parts and electronic gizmos. Now that is finished and feeling very confident, I intend to do the timing belt and accessory belt next before I end up with your problem.
Go for it Al.
-
OK - First update of many
* removed the old belt and re-aligned the cams as per the following pictures.
Cam 1
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200316.jpg)
Cam 2
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200317.jpg)
Cam 3
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200318.jpg)
Cam 4
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200321.jpg)
Does this look right? I have put the locking bits in, and am about the re-turn the crank to TDC, before chaning the pump etc..
-
They look lined upto me but whether thats the right/wrong way I couldn't tell you as I have only done the Cambelt on 2.0's.
Good luck with it though, I am sure someone will be along with experience of the V6 engine.
-
Looks spot on (allowing for some parralex error), top job
-
Cheers for that Mark :)
Sodding Typical!! Its bloody raining >:(
It was a nice sunny day when I started!!
Picture of the Workshop ;)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200315.jpg)
Note the laptop, armed with DVD and wireless network (I am not alone!! ;D)
Hopefully it will just be a shower. I've so far managed to get the water pump changed and am just putting the new back plate on.
Anyone know the opposite of a rain dance. ::)
-
Thats a nice big mallet!
-
Thats a nice big mallet!
The Persuader! ;D
-
Ha, mines bigger than your's. I need plenty of persuading.
-
Thats a nice big mallet!
The Persuader! ;D
I think you'll find the proper name for it is a 'tw4t-o-meter' !! ;)
-
My father always used to say 'you cant hit your own car hard enough'.
So the moral is, if its stuck, hand the hammer to somebody who doesn't own the car!
-
Update 2 - This morning.
Fitted the new belt and timed it up. Pictures below.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/0ecccce8.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/f689f296.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/617a6ea9.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200329.jpg)
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200330.jpg)
Just about to put it all back together.
Any hints/tips on refilling the coolant without getting air locks?
Cheers
-
Looking good, as hard as you thought it would be?
On the coolant, just run it with the heater on hot and the header tank cap off.
-
Looks impressive I have to admit the V6 engine looks rather daunting to me hence the 2.0 but hey I may get a V6 in the future. :)
Fingers crossed for you mate when you come to turn the key.
Good Luck not that you'll need it.
-
So far so good :)
Quick question, what do I torque the crank pully, water pump pully and Aircon pully to?
Cheers
Merv
-
I cant remember....
25Nm for the crank and power stereing and 18Nm for the water pump ring a bell (could be 15 for the water pump).
Will post a manitenance guide on it tonight....
-
With regards torque values just looked at your piccy the haynes on the table should have the values you need.
It should be near the start of the relevant chapter.
HTH :)
-
With regards torque values just looked at your piccy the haynes on the table should have the values you need.
It should be near the start of the relevant chapter.
HTH :)
So it does! Cheers nixoro
Crank pully 20 Nm
Water pump pully Stage 1 - 8 Nm
Stage 2 - angle tighten a further 30deg
Stage 3 - angle tighten a further 30deg
Power steering pully Stage 1 - 20 Nm
Stage 2 - angle tighten a further 30deg
Stage 3 - angle tighten a further 15deg
Not really sure what the stages mean, but I will torque them to the value then give it a bit more.
-
Whack them all up to torque setting, then turn them all a further amount specified by angle (eg another 30 degrees), and tighten them further another 30 degrees...
-
Though judging by that clap of thunder I've just heard in Bletchley, I suspect you've gone inside for a cuppa :)
-
Though judging by that clap of thunder I've just heard in Bletchley, I suspect you've gone inside for a cuppa :)
And a sarnie ::)
-
do you have compression on gine now, as iirc, there was little compression before?
-
do you have compression on gine now, as iirc, there was little compression before?
It certainly took some effort to turn the crank, I didn't turn it before so can't compare. Should know the answer later..... [smiley=vrolijk_1.gif]
-
do you have compression on gine now, as iirc, there was little compression before?
It certainly took some effort to turn the crank, I didn't turn it before so can't compare. Should know the answer later..... [smiley=vrolijk_1.gif]
That is good news, as before, the only compression was just before TDC - the rest of the cranking was easy... :)
-
Getting scarily close now!!
Where do these vacuum pipes go?
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/SV200333.jpg)
I think 5 --> 3
How about the rest?
-
I wouldn't have a clue mate, but blimey your movin now aint cha. :)
-
Mine is:
1 - 6
2 - 7
3 - 5
4 - 8a
8b is on the other side of the unit.
-
Thats right.....
Dont forget to re-connect the air injection pipe top right of the pic (by the rad)
-
There is also a vac pipe diagram in the Maintenance Guides - for the full system.
-
And using that with the multiram info in the FAQ you can tell what goes where.
-
And using that with the multiram info in the FAQ you can tell what goes where.
Do you mean within the Maintenance guides as I have been having a look myself, just out of curiosity.
-
Yep, its in the maintenance section.....been doing to many info posts recently!
-
Thanks for that - connected them all up!
Put the multi-ram back (might need to take it out and re-seat that)
Put coolant back into the system..
Double-checked there are no spare parts that should have been replaced.
Ummmed
Arhrhed
Got the key out of my pocket
got in the driver's seat
put the key in
turned it...........
THE rather BATTERY IS FLAT!!! >:(
break break break break break!!! oh and break!
The wife is out, no battery charger, the car is parked the wrong way on the drive to jump it (if I had jump leads which I don't!)
Looks like the moment of truth will have to wait a while longer!
break!
-
Bugger.........
-
funny that Al, while changing my oil cooler the battery went flat to!
-
I have jump leads in the car, and am in Bletchley. I'll be leaving here in about 20mins, let me know if you want me to drop by...
-
Fingers crossed for you :) not that you'll need it.
I dreaded turning the key on mine when I did mine, was well pleased when it started.
-
I have jump leads in the car, and am in Bletchley. I'll be leaving here in about 20mins, let me know if you want me to drop by...
Would depend on how long they were really. they would need to be about 4.5m long!
-
I think they are 3m :( - and IIRC, your driveway is a bit steep to push 1.7 tons up it...
-
The missus has just got back... off to halfords!
-
Take the battery off the donor car and jump start the flat one.
Then re-fit the battery.
-
the suspense is getting too much now :exclamation
-
this is one long halfords trip! ;D
-
Are we running yet? :-?
-
I guessing its either:
1. Gone horribly wrong, and Allenm is too busy consoling himself with alcohol
2. Gone well, and he's too busy enjoying his car again
The suspense is killing us....
-
Not another tea and sarnie break is it!
-
I guessing its either:
1. Gone horribly wrong, and Allenm is too busy consoling himself with alcohol
2. Gone well, and he's too busy enjoying his car again
The suspense is killing us....
You forgot 3.
Halfords are still flicking through the book for the correct part number. ;)
-
Sorry guys!! update time - or is it flatdate?
Went off to B&Q (closer) and bought one of those recharge station thingies, got it home, connected it up and the car turned over once before the damn thing gave up. :(
Went off to Halfords and got one of those power socket to power socket jump lead things (the only thing long enough given where my car is- That was officially rather useless. >:(
Gave up, put the power station thing on charge and hit the beer! [smiley=beer.gif]
This morning, connected up the booster, car turned over a bit, at one point almost fired, then the rather useles booster thing gave up >:(
Off to Argos (I love shopping!), bought the biggest battery charger they had, took the other shite back, and the battery is being charged as we speak (or as you read).
I will let you all know how it goes! (Admins, you may want to make sure the profanity filter is set to max - this could get messy if it still don't work ;))
Cheers
Merv
-
Gah!, just doner a bloody battery - we're on tenterhooks here
-
Update time .....
Charged up the battery and turned the key.
Engine burst into life, but sounded very similar to before (ie no better >:()
More worrying, was smoke coming from the engine. Video attached.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/th_SV200334.jpg) (http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/?action=view¤t=SV200334.flv)
What do you think guys???
-
difficult to tell where the smoke is coming from in video - is it coming from where egr meets exhaust, on further along?
-
The clatter seems possible to be dry tappits the smoke as TheBoy says looks to be coming from down below the egr valve where it meets the manifold.
Possible manifold leak aswell, could be causing the noise.
What is the oil level like.
HTH
Just what I think it could be, I am sure someone will be able to confirm.
-
The smoke was coming from around the bolt where the EGR meets the manifold, although curiously it hasn't been doing it this time round.
I have checked the oil and there is plenty, it is quite thick and looks like it needs a change, but there is plenty of it, and it sounded fine before the failure.
The attached vid was taken after the sodding secondary air pump had shut the f up. Picture not great but the sound is the issue.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/th_SV200336.jpg) (http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/?action=view¤t=SV200336.flv)
Aside from sounding like a diesel :-? every so often you can here a definate clunk.
-
Difficult to tell from video, is it like a tappet tap? If so, could be lack of oil in tappets, or a hole in manifold...
-
Oh dear, after all you have been through it sounds rough. Definately hear that clonk you talk about. Doesnt seem to be cyclonic though, just every now and then. Dont want to be a kill joy but that seems to be a tops of and inspection job.
-
I had exactly the same symptoms when I changed my cam belt last year. The smoke from around the EGR valve disappeared after a while, but the engine sounded awful. Sounded like tractor running on 2 cylinders. In fact, I stripped the whole lot down again the following day. Found no problems with the timing, so I put it all back together. The sodding clacking sound was still there! In frustration I took the car round the block and gave it a bit of wellie. Darn me, the noise gradually got quieter and quieter. After about 15 to 20 minutes, I suppose, it had disappeared altogether. The problem? Dunno, but I suspect it was a dry cam. Once the oil got forced around, it freed everything up.
Not sure if all this helps - it's just a thought.
Might help you sleep better, though!! ;)
-
The smoke I would think is crap being burnt off in the exhaust follwing its previous trouble, it looks to be leaking from the corrugated pipe from the exhaust manifold to EGR, oftne this is just a loose union nut so can be tweaked up.
The tappets do sound noisey.......does it run smoothly or not......the knock/pop, is it coming from the inlet area?
-
I haven't tried to actually drive it, I was scared that something worse might happen.
The smoke stopped the second time of starting.
The sounding like a diesel is fairly constant
The 'clunk' noise is not regular, when it happens it co-incides with the engine faltering then picking up again.
I don't really know where it is coming from, other than it seems to be more pronounced on the passenger side of the engine.
I am here with the car, so able to try things to order, and can video and post the findings.
-
I would take it round the block and see how it goes, it might well clear up as its been sat for a fair while.....
-
It probably been sat for a month, and the hydraulic tappets may have lost all their oil.
IIRC, your rocker gaskets are suspect? pull the plug leads and remove any oil in the plug wells in case it also has a slight misfire.
-
That was short lived!
I turned it on. gave it some revs, which is provided in a fairly stuttering sort of way,
Then moved the wife's car out of the way, got into mine, it is now idleing like a diesel truck,
battery light dimmly coming on and off, no response to me pressing the accelerator.
The attached vid shows the noise it is making, the response to throttle and the final bit is me taking the camera from drivers side to passengers side accross the engine.
(http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/th_SV200337.jpg) (http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m49/allenm_2006/?action=view¤t=SV200337.flv)
-
It probably been sat for a month, and the hydraulic tappets may have lost all their oil.
IIRC, your rocker gaskets are suspect? pull the plug leads and remove any oil in the plug wells in case it also has a slight misfire.
Bugga! just popped the lead of plug 1 and had a texan bloke start shouting Yee-Haa ::)
More sodding oil in there than a bloody oily thing!!!
Is there a simple way to get it out?
-
Oh dear! Box of matches and a gallon of motion lotion!? :o ::)
-
Just try to get it out with kitchen roll, unless you have something you can suck it out with...
-
OK, got as much oil out as possible, turned it on and got some revs.
took it round the block, it was really holding back, but at high revs was pulling along, low revs was a different matter, shuddering alot and stalling if the revs weren't there.
Got it home and it immediately stalled, back to stalling when revs are applied.
Also one hell of alot of bubbling, I presume this is normal as I emptied the block?
Hard to know what this means really - any thoughts, suggestions, things to try?
Cheers
Merv
-
Time for a compression test me thinks.....
-
Time for a compression test me thinks.....
How do I do one of them?
Just been out looking at it again, and noticed that when I put the Multi-ram thing back, I had it pushed too far back and the 2 vacuum pipes have been cut through by the alternator pully. Managed to trim one back and make good, just going to tape the other up and see if that makes a difference.
-
Just been out and made repairs to the vaccum pipe. reseated the multi-ram in the correct position :-[ and fired her up again.
It is better...... but still no where near right :(
Idle is very lumpy, although now alot quieter, if you then push it straight into full throttle, there is a noise like air being sucked in, a pause, then it revs up. drop the revs, it struggles to not stall. Low revs still cause the car to shudder like mad.
-
sounds like a vacuum leak.
Check all hoses for slipts cracks etc, or that they are all connected.
-
A little late but here goes:
1. The smoke, looks just like penetrating oil or WD40 burning off the manifold - nothing to worry about.
2. The tappety sound (originally) - lets hope the tappets quieten down on their own.
3. The random thunk. Could be the aircon compressor trying to kick in. Try turning the A/C off.
4. The real rough running, proper tractor sound - the car's struggling to run, HT leads and oil likely to be the cause. Need to clean the plugs and HT leads properly.
5. A very flat battery sometimes doesn't help the idle because the alternator is loading the engine.
6. Need to sort all the vacuum leaks properly or the idle and running will be rubbish.
-
Thanks for that.
I have cleared as much as the oil out as I could with the help of a long transparent tube and suction then kitchen roll.
Have repaired the 2 broken vacuum pipes.
Still runs like crap.
Given the history.. what is the next step guys?
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Sorry to harp on, but are all the plugs and caps nice and clean.
Old engine oil has tiny amounts of metal in it and the spark would much prefer to travel through a smear of oil than jump the spark plug gap. One plug misfiring could cause the idle you're seeing.
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if it still running like crap, tehn I could do a compression test.
I once saw a Cav with a snaped belt (16SV Engine, Non interference)
Timed it back up, started it, ran like crap. Compression tested, was down on Cyl 3.
The piston had just clipped an exhaust valve. Bending it slightly, just enough to kill compression in the cylinder, but to look at, it was fine.
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I have just done the compression test. It took me bloddy ages to get the sodding plugs out (namely number 6 the little bastard), so the result was that the engine was not at normal running temp. Not sure if that matters.
The results are ....
Cylinder Compression
1 20 Bar / 290 PSI
3 17 Bar / 250 PSI
5 16 Bar / 230 PSI
2 0 Bar / 0 PSI
4 0 Bar / 0 PSI
6 0 Bar / 0 PSI
I'm no expert, but I'm guessing that aint good! :(
What next??
Merv
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no mate that aint good, in fact it very very bad.
I would check the timing again, and then look at valve damage.
Head off im afraid, unless you now anyone with a bore-scope
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bugger.
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sorry about the bad news, but just a wild thought (never having had to play with one of these V6's) - is there any way that having the inlet and exhaust cams for that bank swapped over could cause this (zero compression) fault ? Could the timing allow that - any other sort of problem and I would have thought that you would get at least some presuure on the test one one or more cylinders. I am sure that somebody will know the answer.
HTH
GB
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there is not much room on the V6 inside the cylinders for the timing to be out. Two teeth is about the limit before teh pistons invite the valves down to lunch.
It is possible that they could have just clipped the valves, still bent, but only just. I would take the head off, and check.
While your there might as well change the stem seals and re-lap the valves, considering the valves are comig out, then it wouldn't take much longer.
V6man54deg has a great tool for putting the collets back in, gets them every time.
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I think Allenm may need some assistance, whether a 'Head change party' or step by step instructions...
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I think Allenm may need some assistance, whether a 'Head change party' or step by step instructions...
That's an understatement! :-[ I hope the head change party is still on the cards!
I guess I need to start looking for a car to keep me going in the meantime though!
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I also had a cambelt jump/slip four teeth on my V6 Omega last April. Sympton was car would start but rattled awfully. I stopped engine at once.
I stripped it down and found the cams were 4 teeth ahead of the crank. I took advice from Dr. Omega on the yahoo site and proceeded more or less as you plan, but allow me to elaborate anyhow.
With engine at TDC on no. 1 by bottom pulley mark, I removed the old cam belt. I rotated the crankshaft 60 degrees anticlockwise to locate all pistons out of harms way. I then rotated all camshafts a couple of turns each, using a socket on the sprocket nuts, checking that I felt resistance at all times - I did. This told me that no valves were bent - good news.
I next set all cam sprockets with the alignment marks aligned with the notches in the rear cover. Then I rotated the crankshaft 60 degrees clockwise back to TDC.
I then put on the new pulleys and belt as described in Haynes and Total Vauxhall October 2005, using the special tools. I am sure that the site DVD tells you how to do this, mine has just arived but I have not run it yet. I tensioned the belt as instructed, with the aligment marks in line. I removed the special tools and rotated the engine two turns. I checked that the bottom pulley and cam sprockets all still lined up. They did.
I reassembled ancillaries and paused for a cup of coffee. I then connected the battery and started the engine. It ran sweet as a nut.
I had made one mistake. After a week or so the EMS light came on, and the fault was eventually traced to the knock sensor lead having been located on the wrong side of the auxilary belt tensioner and having been worn through by the aux belt. Took it apart again, resoldered the knock sensor lead, reassembled, and all was well.
It has run well ever since.
Good luck,
Terry
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Terry, that is pretty much what has been done, although it is MUCH better to set the crank to 60 deg before TDC before removing the belt as the cams could spring over and cause damage.
So, passenger side bank has bent valves, we need to find some 2.5 heads and get them re-furbed ready for fitting....
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I guess I need to start looking for a car to keep me going in the meantime though!
What you need is a nice 95 2.5 V6 CD model, in red.... ;D
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Terry, that is pretty much what has been done, although it is MUCH better to set the crank to 60 deg before TDC before removing the belt as the cams could spring over and cause damage.
So, passenger side bank has bent valves, we need to find some 2.5 heads and get them re-furbed ready for fitting....
That sounds about right... isunnaz, yours still available?
Merv
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I also had a cambelt jump/slip four teeth on my V6 Omega last April. Sympton was car would start but rattled awfully. I stopped engine at once.
I stripped it down and found the cams were 4 teeth ahead of the crank. I took advice from Dr. Omega on the yahoo site and proceeded more or less as you plan, but allow me to elaborate anyhow.
With engine at TDC on no. 1 by bottom pulley mark, I removed the old cam belt. I rotated the crankshaft 60 degrees anticlockwise to locate all pistons out of harms way. I then rotated all camshafts a couple of turns each, using a socket on the sprocket nuts, checking that I felt resistance at all times - I did. This told me that no valves were bent - good news.
I next set all cam sprockets with the alignment marks aligned with the notches in the rear cover. Then I rotated the crankshaft 60 degrees clockwise back to TDC.
I then put on the new pulleys and belt as described in Haynes and Total Vauxhall October 2005, using the special tools. I am sure that the site DVD tells you how to do this, mine has just arived but I have not run it yet. I tensioned the belt as instructed, with the aligment marks in line. I removed the special tools and rotated the engine two turns. I checked that the bottom pulley and cam sprockets all still lined up. They did.
I reassembled ancillaries and paused for a cup of coffee. I then connected the battery and started the engine. It ran sweet as a nut.
I had made one mistake. After a week or so the EMS light came on, and the fault was eventually traced to the knock sensor lead having been located on the wrong side of the auxilary belt tensioner and having been worn through by the aux belt. Took it apart again, resoldered the knock sensor lead, reassembled, and all was well.
It has run well ever since.
Good luck,
Terry
Terry,
That is more or less what I have done, if you look back through the thread you can see the steps I have gone through. The only difference with yours is that mine did not start sweet as a nut!!
I'm sure you won't be offended if I call you a lucky barsteward ;)
Merv
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Terry, that is pretty much what has been done, although it is MUCH better to set the crank to 60 deg before TDC before removing the belt as the cams could spring over and cause damage.
So, passenger side bank has bent valves, we need to find some 2.5 heads and get them re-furbed ready for fitting....
That sounds about right... isunnaz, yours still available?
Merv
yes, have took the cams out, but all the bits are available
They may benefit from a skim, as suggested by markDTM on a different thread
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personally, once the head is off, it is worth giving a skim anyway, the head is allready off, and for the little that it costs, its better to have the peace of mind.
There used to be a precision engineering compnay in Derby that would skim a cyliner head for a £25 Backhander.
Unfortunateley, they are no more, as the guy that used to dfo has left the company (Elison Metal Products)
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....
There used to be a precision engineering compnay in Derby that would skim a cyliner head for a £25 Backhander.....
It wasn't much more to have my Senator's head done. Hardest bit was finding a company that had a m/c big enough for a straight 6 head.
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I guess we need to hatch a plan for the head change party..
Is everyone still OK to do this?
Are the heads Issunaz has OK/
Pete - still up for the prep work?
When might all this come together and a day be possible?
Tea and Bacon butties still on the cards!
Cheers
Merv
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I am available to help, though would say this is beyond my skills...
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First stage is to get the heads to Pete for a re-furb, I suspect this will take a few weeks.....
Then we need the required bits (we will need stem seals for the re-furb) and a day to remove and fit.
As prep on the car, Allen could strip down the cambelt again as this will save about an hour.
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Thanks Mark, sounds like a plan...
Pete, issunaz, how do we arrange getting the heads to Pete? (assuming you are both still willing)
Cheers all
Merv
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Thanks Mark, sounds like a plan...
Pete, issunaz, how do we arrange getting the heads to Pete? (assuming you are both still willing)
Cheers all
Merv
Where is Pete?
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Pete is based in Nottingham.
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I can get out this weekend, I would rather do it earlier than later as I am planning a dis pack and HBV change this weekend :-/ :-/
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Where is Pete? He's been busy with other things.
Issunaz, Mark is trying to contact you today. I will be visiting Barton under Needwood, on the A38 just west of Burton on Trent on Saturday and Sunday so perhaps we could meet? Im a bit tied down though because it is the mother in laws 80th birthday so I wont be allowed to dissapear or get dirty!!
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So thats the head re-build sorted.....
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Things are afoot re a pair of heads and the preparation thereof. So dont go buying another set just yet.
I will post details once I have them (probably not till Sunday due to other commitments)
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Cheers Guys!
Just let me know if you need anything from me, or for me to do / get anything.
Thanks
Merv
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Where is Pete? He's been busy with other things.
Issunaz, Mark is trying to contact you today. I will be visiting Barton under Needwood, on the A38 just west of Burton on Trent on Saturday and Sunday so perhaps we could meet? Im a bit tied down though because it is the mother in laws 80th birthday so I wont be allowed to dissapear or get dirty!!
:) it wasn't a "where the bl00dy hell is Pete, he should be on here"
it was where geographically is Pete ::)
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have spoken to Pete, final arrangements to be confirmed.
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Allenm, I spoke to Marks_DTM earlier today, and nearer time (may be 'weeks' due to time taken to refurb heads and holidays and other commitments) if you can strip down and remove cambelt etc (obviously lock it first! - you still have my camlock kit). If you need me to give you a hand with this, let me know...
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Yep, no problem, as soon as I know a rough time, I will get the car stripped down and will lock and take the belt.
Now I have done it, and armed with the DVD, I am happy to tackle this on my own, though thanks for the offer :)
Another thought occurs, the rocker gaskets need doing (on the drivers side, the passenger side plug wells were bone dry). Is this something that will happen as a consequence of the heads coming off? or something that I should get sorted first.
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Damn, I told Mark it was your passenger gaskets that were knackered :-[
Not sure if Mark/Pete's plans were to change both heads or not... ...if not, change the drivers side rocker gasket before. Its the easier side to do, but make sure you use black sealant (Crownhill's will insist its the green stuff).
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Damn, I told Mark it was your passenger gaskets that were knackered :-[
Not sure if Mark/Pete's plans were to change both heads or not... ...if not, change the drivers side rocker gasket before. Its the easier side to do, but make sure you use black sealant (Crownhill's will insist its the green stuff).
A pair of heads were delivered to the care of Pete this morning, I think the plan is to do both of them to ensure the "Law of Sod" doesn't rear it's ugly head if they only do the knackered side ;)
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Pair of heads in my garage now and exhaust studs soaking in penetrating oil. There is one broken stud with what looks like a drill or easy-out snapped off in it so I have a bit of extra work to do.
I will start on cleaning and stripping them later in the week.
Allenm (merv?) I will be in touch later about starting the strip-down and make arrangements to come to MK but it will be after mark returns from his banger rally.
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Pete,
Thats great thanks, Let me know if you need me to do/get anything.
Is there a list of things I need to get while I have a TC card?
I was thinking Oil, filter, Plugs. Anything else?
Many Thanks
Merv
The ALLENM is surname/initial (boring really I know).
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Just though I'd bump this back to the top, I'm going for the record of longest post, since I ain't ever going to catch Tunnie up on the post count front ;D
The current plan is for the heads to be changed the Saturday before the Santa Pod meet.
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Just though I'd bump this back to the top, I'm going for the record of longest post, since I ain't ever going to catch Tunnie up on the post count front ;D
The current plan is for the heads to be changed the Saturday before the Santa Pod meet.
Good Luck for saturday allenm :) not that you'll need it.
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It certainly is becoming a mega post....
I'd love to be able to watch the guys at work swapping a head...
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I'd love to be able to watch the guys at work swapping a head...
Is that a hint for another DVD? ;)
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It certainly is becoming a mega post....
I'd love to be able to watch the guys at work swapping a head...
I've got an invite for butties and tea :)
(I hope)
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I'd love to be able to watch the guys at work swapping a head...
Is that a hint for another DVD? ;)
It wasn't, but now you mention it, and as the cambelt one was so good.....
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Issunaz - tea and butties still have you name on them, same for Theboy.
RobinHood, I'm more than happy to feed the cameraman ;)
All this said, Mark DTM and Matchless may have a view on cooks and soup!
I just can't wait to get back to driving a real-wheel drive V6!
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Extra hands will be of use to clean bits as we remove them.......
i.e. Plenum, breathers, aux belt tensioner re-furb, alternator check etc.
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I can clean breathers and grease up aux tensioner... ...not sure i'm any good with alternator though... :(
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;)
All this said, Mark DTM and Matchless may have a view on cooks and soup!
That was lost on me unless broth = soup where you come from ??
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;)
All this said, Mark DTM and Matchless may have a view on cooks and soup!
That was lost on me unless broth = soup where you come from ??
Yep, Soup = Broth. I am sure there was a damn good reason why I decided to
substitute the word - just havn't got a clue what it might be :-/
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Well, I am hoping that all is going to plan and the Saturday before Santa-pod is still on the cards. The update from Matchless and Mark DTM sound like they have got it all well under control :)
So time for me to start planning what I need to do in prep....
.. Strip down and remove cambelt. (theboy, can I scrounge the locking kit again?)
.. Get some carb cleaner for the breathers
.. Stock up on tea, bacon, beer, and some proper grub.
What else needs adding to the list guys? anything else I need to get?
Cheers
Merv
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Can you get access to a Gazebo in case it rains..... :)
Matchless is assembling the heads either tonight or tomorrow now that they are all cleaned and the valves lapped in.
I flattened the exhaust manifolds and replaced a broken stud last night so they are ready to fit.
The gasket set has arrived (needed for the stem seals) and an order will go in for the extra few bits required (anti freeze, oil, filter, couple of seals etc...) with my friendly local dealer(re, 'the old boy')
Were on track to go I think....
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Yup, I'll chuck the kit in car, not sure when I can get up to you (unless you can get down to Bletchley?)
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Sounds good! I will sort out either a Gazebo or lash up a tarp between my house and next doors!
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I have a 3m x 3m material type gazebo. Being material, not entirely sure how waterproof it is if it gets really wet...
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Yup, I'll chuck the kit in car, not sure when I can get up to you (unless you can get down to Bletchley?)
I can get to Bletchley no problem, just need to know so I make sure I drop the wife at work and keep her car. If you are in Bletchley tomorrow, I could pop over. If you are near a Pub all the better [smiley=beer.gif]
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I'm in Bletchley tomorrow, camlock and 30mm spanner in boot. I'm there from 9am until 4:30 ish, but alas cannot get out. You're welcome to come and pick up at any time, but I may be in a hurry :(
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I'm in Bletchley tomorrow, camlock and 30mm spanner in boot. I'm there from 9am until 4:30 ish, but alas cannot get out. You're welcome to come and pick up at any time, but I may be in a hurry :(
OK, PM the address and what is likely to be the best time. Dont need to 30mm spanner, just the kit.
Cheers
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I have a 3m x 3m material type gazebo. Being material, not entirely sure how waterproof it is if it gets really wet...
Also got a gazebo that I can chuck into the back of the motor if required.
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Camlock and gazebo in boot, awaiting your collection :)
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Aiming for around 11:00 if that is ok. Will ring first.
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Aiming for around 11:00 if that is ok. Will ring first.
Sounds good. Got a few pointless audio conferences today, so if landline engaged, use mobile number ;)
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Merv,
If you can strip down to where you were for cambelt replacement that will save time, also drain radiator and remove water pump again to empty the block, that way we shouldnt have to lie in antifreeze on the day.
Can you provide a power feed for work lights?
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Merv,
If you can strip down to where you were for cambelt replacement that will save time, also drain radiator and remove water pump again to empty the block, that way we shouldnt have to lie in antifreeze on the day.
Can you provide a power feed for work lights?
Ok will do. Power is no problem, I will make sure that there are at least 2 extension leads to use.
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Merv,
If you can strip down to where you were for cambelt replacement that will save time, also drain radiator and remove water pump again to empty the block, that way we shouldnt have to lie in antifreeze on the day.
Can you provide a power feed for work lights?
Will I need to get a new seal for the pump, or is it likely to be OK (new on a couple of weeks ago). I'm also guessing I just remove the belt, not the tensioners etc, if so these will need new bolts (according to haynes).
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Belt and tensioners off....back plate has to be removed to do the heads....seal should be fine.
Issunaz.....Gazebo would be good just in case.
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Allenm has my 3m x 3m gazebo (its only cloth, not sure how waterproof if there is big downpour), also has locking kit for cambelt.
Allenm, anything else you need, or if you need a hand with anything, just let me know...
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Belt and tensioners off....back plate has to be removed to do the heads....seal should be fine.
Ok, No problem, are the bolts on your shopping list, or should I nip out to VX this week and get some replacements?
Ta
Merv
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Bolts are re-useable as they are not stretch ones....plus I have a few spares ayway.
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Hi Guys, been watching this thread for the last couple of days since I joined. It's addictive vieiwing, a bit like a soap :) I think this site is great, being able to follow something and learn alot. Hi hope this sorts out for you Merv! I know what it's like going to work and leaving you meega on the drive every day :(
Good luck guys, I'm following this closely as in the next couple of weeks I'm going to be changing my cam belt and this is invaluable information - Thanks!!!
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UncleF, a member here has produced a cambelt change DVD, not sure on postage to Cyprus, but its worth its weight in gold.
Don't attempt without locking/timing kit.
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UncleF, a member here has produced a cambelt change DVD, not sure on postage to Cyprus, but its worth its weight in gold.
Don't attempt without locking/timing kit.
In the region of £1.50 - I've been selling DVDs to Greece
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Planning to strip the car down tomorrow so that it is all ready for Saturday assuming all is still go.
Mark, can you let me know what bits you have got and are bringing and PM me a cost for it all so I can get the cash ready.
Now just need to know who is coming along so I can sort out getting the refreshments, was thinking Bacon butties first thing, then a big pan of Chilli, chicken drumsticks etc for lunch and as much tea/coffee as can be drunk, let me know if that don't appeal (no problem changing the menu ;) ).
Oh yeah, is carb cleaner called that? or does it have a trade name, can't seem to find it on any websites, I guess Motorserv will have it, just need to know what it is called :-[
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Motorserv will sell - should be around £2 - £2.50 for large aerosol. Beware, Halfruads want an Ayrton a pop >:(
Get 2 or 3 cans.
I'll certainly be there, may have to leave before all done, as gotta tow caravan to Santa Pod >:(
Anything you need me to bring?
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Will be there (if you pm your address ;))
What time is the kick off?
Will be bringing most of my tools, (and a big hammer), just in case the professionals forget a screwdriver of something :)
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We have got
- Two re-furbished heads with exhaust manifolds flattened and fitted along with new studs, Vx gaskets, new stem seals, cleaned and re-ground valves plus cleaned lifters.
- Headgasket kit including head bolts and cam cover seals.
- 4 off coolant bridge seals
- 4 off oil cooler banjo seals
- 1 off coolant pipe to block O ring
- 2 coolant pipe to stat housing O rings
- Grey Selaent (oil cooler plate)
- Black sealent (cam covers)
- Green sealent (front cam bearings)
- Grease
- Copper grease
- Oil can
- WD40
- Rust flash
- Solvent cleaner
- Kitchen paper
- Gloves
- Spares (bolts etc)
- Tywraps
- Spare vac pipes
- Cam lock kit
- Torque wrench settings
- 5 litres of Oil (semi synth)
- 5 litres of antifreeze
- Oil filter and sump plug seal (paper element)
- 6 spark plugs
Matchless has the bill(s)
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We have got
- Two re-furbished heads with exhaust manifolds flattened and fitted along with new studs, Vx gaskets, new stem seals, cleaned and re-ground valves plus cleaned lifters.
- Headgasket kit including head bolts and cam cover seals.
- 4 off coolant bridge seals
- 4 off oil cooler banjo seals
- 1 off coolant pipe to block O ring
- 2 coolant pipe to stat housing O rings
- Grey Selaent (oil cooler plate)
- Black sealent (cam covers)
- Green sealent (front cam bearings)
- Grease
- Copper grease
- Oil can
- WD40
- Rust flash
- Solvent cleaner
- Kitchen paper
- Gloves
- Spares (bolts etc)
- Tywraps
- Spare vac pipes
- Cam lock kit
- Torque wrench settings
- 5 litres of Oil (semi synth)
- 5 litres of antifreeze
- Oil filter and sump plug seal (paper element)
- 6 spark plugs
Matchless has the bill(s)
Blimey! :o Glad you guys know what you are doing, the list of bits has lost me :-[
What time are you planning to start, I'll make sure the gazebo etc, is ready beforehand, and get the kettle on! :)
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Planning to leave Nottingham about 8.00am....so shoudl eb there shortly after nine Oclock.
Can you PM me your address and phone number.
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Will PM the bill tonight.
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I'm sure you guys don't need luck, but I just wanted to wish you all the best for the weekend.
Wish i could be there to see it happen, if only for the bacon butties.....
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I Started stripping down the cambelt yesterday in between the downpours!
When I did the blow/suck test of the metal air pipe, I received a lungfull of sooty air :(
I guess this means that the non return valve is gone.
Is this repairable or do I need to be getting a replacement?
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Got a spare, I was going to bring it with me anyway.
Heres a pic of the two assembled heads:
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/IMG_7215.jpg)
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/IMG_7216.jpg)
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Great, Thanks Mark!
The heads look great! I better get out and start polishing the car ready for them ;D
Starting to feel like a kid at christmas at the thought of getting the meega back ! ;D
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Got a spare, I was going to bring it with me anyway.
Heres a pic of the two assembled heads:
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/IMG_7215.jpg)
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/IMG_7216.jpg)
Hmm! they didn't look like that last time I saw them ::)
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Got a spare, I was going to bring it with me anyway.
Heres a pic of the two assembled heads:
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/IMG_7215.jpg)
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b394/Marks_DTM_Calib/IMG_7216.jpg)
Hmm! they didn't look like that last time I saw them ::)
Ive still got all the muck and gunge if you want it back. ;D
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That is an astonishingly good job done to those heads!
Merv, just watch Mark and Pete at work, it is a real education to watch 2 experts on a job like this.
Oh, and the engine will sound beautiful when it is done....once it goes past the "guys, that really doesn't sound good!" stage where oil gets to where it should be. ;)
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That is an astonishingly good job done to those heads!
Merv, just watch Mark and Pete at work, it is a real education to watch 2 experts on a job like this.
Oh, and the engine will sound beautiful when it is done....once it goes past the "guys, that really doesn't sound good!" stage where oil gets to where it should be. ;)
I know!, can't wait to see them in action, watching the DVD was a real eye-opener, but I'm sure this is going to be amazing. Just wish I had a fraction of the knowledge and ability :-/
After the noise it was making, even the rattling before the oil gets round is going to sound good to me :)
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So then will there be someone recording what happens, was wondering if a head removal/ replace dvd was on the books :y
Perhaps maybe a before and after video for example one of the vid clips earlier on in the thread and a new vid of the car back to perfect running condition may help those who have doubts as to whether there car is fubarred or not.
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Good luck guys, not that you'll need it ;) looking forward to hearing about it over the weekend
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Good luck guys, not that you'll need it ;) looking forward to hearing about it over the weekend
Yep and we will have a few cool beers waiting for you :y
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So then will there be someone recording what happens, was wondering if a head removal/ replace dvd was on the books :y
Could be. ;)
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This has got to be the best thread ever! I've been watching it for a while now and I can't wait to see the results!
This type of thing is what makes this Site so good [smiley=thumbsup.gif]. If any of you guys are ever down Hastings way I'll buy you a beer or three [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif]
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If any of you guys are ever down Hastings way I'll buy you a beer or three [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif]
I can feel a holiday in Hastings coming on ;D
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If any of you guys are ever down Hastings way I'll buy you a beer or three [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif] [smiley=beer.gif]
I can feel a holiday in Hastings coming on ;D
;D ;D ;DDon't suppose you could do my cambelt while your here could you? ;D ;D ;D
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Well,
we had nice bacon cobs and good chilli!
Oh! and I stood around watching, de-gunked a few bits and drunk coffee and tea
then I came home, (will be going to Santa Pod in the morning)
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Well I spoke to Mark earlier (before he had opened too many beers! ::)) and the job is complete.
6 hours to strip down and rebuild the top end. Now that is impressive! 8-)
All good and sounding sweet.
I am sure Mark will give a proper write up, when he is sober enough!
Well done guys! :y
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I'm sure Allenm will be all smiles :)
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Well done to all that helped Allenm! It's been really interesting following this thread, I've learned quite a bit from this site, although I'm no mechanic, It has made me get my car back to some sort of normaility and saved me a forune in VX/Opel labour costs.
Great to see people showing real human spirit and not treating things as if it's all a 'black art' :y
Mike
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All smiles does not begin to describe it !!
The car is running as sweet as a nut!
Will pop up some pictures when I get a chance. But what can't wait is saying a massive thanks to Mark DTM, Matchless, TheBoy, Issunaz and Robin Hood.
Mark and Pete worked magic on the car, first turn of the key and the engine fired up. No EML and once the oil got round the engine is really quiet.
[size=20]THANKS GUYS! [/size]
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All smiles does not begin to describe it !!
The car is running as sweet as a nut!
Will pop up some pictures when I get a chance. But what can't wait is saying a massive thanks to Mark DTM, Matchless, TheBoy, Issunaz and Robin Hood.
Mark and Pete worked magic on the car, first turn of the key and the engine fired up. No EML and once the oil got round the engine is really quiet.
[size=20]THANKS GUYS! [/size]
Glad to hear all went well and you won't have to keep walking past your car on the way to work! Mine not so good it seems....Checked header tank after flushing one week ago, lots more mayo! Flushed it again to see if its just more left over residue but noticied water dripping from the exhaust pipe1? (Not good er?) No water in oil so wondered if it where I've been flushing, but don't sound too good. Can't believe the oil cooler gone this quick (8months) ::)
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What a fabulous epic. I read it for the first time tonight and I'm exhausted. I need to do a cambelt change on my lowly tourer and will gladly drive anywhere in the country if someone is willing to help me with it for the first time? (Crates of Stella etc. will be in the boot) Or if you fancy a weekend by the seaside...
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All smiles does not begin to describe it !!
The car is running as sweet as a nut!
Will pop up some pictures when I get a chance. But what can't wait is saying a massive thanks to Mark DTM, Matchless, TheBoy, Issunaz and Robin Hood.
Mark and Pete worked magic on the car, first turn of the key and the engine fired up. No EML and once the oil got round the engine is really quiet.
[size=20]THANKS GUYS! [/size]
UncleF, can you start new thread about you prob, it will get kinda lost in this thread ;) (sounds like a hose may have split - common after oil cooler prob, as the oil softens the rubber)
Glad to hear all went well and you won't have to keep walking past your car on the way to work! Mine not so good it seems....Checked header tank after flushing one week ago, lots more mayo! Flushed it again to see if its just more left over residue but noticied water dripping from the exhaust pipe1? (Not good er?) No water in oil so wondered if it where I've been flushing, but don't sound too good. Can't believe the oil cooler gone this quick (8months) ::)
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What a fabulous epic. I read it for the first time tonight and I'm exhausted. I need to do a cambelt change on my lowly tourer and will gladly drive anywhere in the country if someone is willing to help me with it for the first time? (Crates of Stella etc. will be in the boot) Or if you fancy a weekend by the seaside...
i'm not a million miles away - 15/20m other side of Oxford.
Or get DVD, and have a crack yourself ;)
Best off starting new thread though....
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there is something very very satisfying to stripping an engine with a fault, repairing and rebuilding the engine. Especially if you have never done these things before or on a complicated engine. mere mortals against machines or something like that. Although aprehensive to begin, but with the right guidance or book and gaining confidence ready to tacle other problems as they arrive. Must make me the oldest apprentice in the world.
Well done to all and a special good luck to allenm who is a very happy bunny.
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Comments were made with regard to Allenm's driving around Milton Keynes afterwards. I say he was just enjoying his v6 again.... :)
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The DVD would be a good start. Who do I PM?
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The DVD would be a good start. Who do I PM?
Robin Hood, but doubt he's edited yet....
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It did sound smooth, well done all :y
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A V6 cambelt DVD is available now but the editing of the heads is a couple of weeks off. I am away next week (school holidays) and have a small mountain to clear this week. If however, someone is desperate, PM me and I will see what I can do. In the meantime I’ll try and get some footage posted of Allenm’s engine firing up again.
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A good job done I think and thanks to AllenM for the hospitality (makes a good Chilli!)
It sounded pretty sweet whe fired up and went nice and quiet once the oil got to all the followers.
Yet again though, we were working on a V6 with 130K miles on it and the bores didn't have a mark on them and the cams were very good so its yet another good reason to get the oil changed regularly. The unit was showing signs of dealer servicing though (failed cam cover gaskets, lack of coolant changes etc)
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I also had a cambelt jump/slip four teeth on my V6 Omega last April. Sympton was car would start but rattled awfully. I stopped engine at once.
I stripped it down and found the cams were 4 teeth ahead of the crank. I took advice from Dr. Omega on the yahoo site and proceeded more or less as you plan, but allow me to elaborate anyhow.
With engine at TDC on no. 1 by bottom pulley mark, I removed the old cam belt. I rotated the crankshaft 60 degrees anticlockwise to locate all pistons out of harms way. I then rotated all camshafts a couple of turns each, using a socket on the sprocket nuts, checking that I felt resistance at all times - I did. This told me that no valves were bent - good news.
I next set all cam sprockets with the alignment marks aligned with the notches in the rear cover. Then I rotated the crankshaft 60 degrees clockwise back to TDC.
I then put on the new pulleys and belt as described in Haynes and Total Vauxhall October 2005, using the special tools. I am sure that the site DVD tells you how to do this, mine has just arived but I have not run it yet. I tensioned the belt as instructed, with the aligment marks in line. I removed the special tools and rotated the engine two turns. I checked that the bottom pulley and cam sprockets all still lined up. They did.
I reassembled ancillaries and paused for a cup of coffee. I then connected the battery and started the engine. It ran sweet as a nut.
I had made one mistake. After a week or so the EMS light came on, and the fault was eventually traced to the knock sensor lead having been located on the wrong side of the auxilary belt tensioner and having been worn through by the aux belt. Took it apart again, resoldered the knock sensor lead, reassembled, and all was well.
It has run well ever since.
Good luck,
Terry
Just to dig up a (very) old thread - I've just found another V6, that's jumped 4 teeth, and survived... ::)
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Theres a bit of luck for you! :y
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James, I do hope your dreams come true......how were your lottery numbers last night.
You will also note that this thread covers a certain car which was 2 and 3 teeth out.....you might be VERY lucky, but the odds realy are stacked agaist you.
Ow yes, note also the in-correct way of removing the belt under such circumstances described above...it should be at 60 deg before TDC before the belt is removed.
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James, I do hope your dreams come true......how were your lottery numbers last night.
You will also note that this thread covers a certain car which was 2 and 3 teeth out.....you might be VERY lucky, but the odds realy are stacked agaist you.
Ow yes, note also the in-correct way of removing the belt under such circumstances described above...it should be at 60 deg before TDC before the belt is removed.
I don't play the lottery - I'm not a gambling man ::)
I used the 60deg btdc position...
Mervs car had no compression on the 246 bank, mine has got compression in the green, on all cylinders, however two are definately lower than the others on the 1-5-6 bank.
I DO agree that it's going to have done damage on that bank. But I also think it will run given those compressions - maybe just to get me through to the summer, so I can rebuild heads and fit 3.0 cams?