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Messages - GrahamT

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1
Omega General Help / Re: Another Air Con question
« on: 29 May 2018, 17:25:29 »
I'm looking at topping up the air con but my compressor clutch is not engaging. Before I delve into it will low gas pressure disable the compressor so I will need to top up the gas to get it to run?

Thanks  :)

One interesting thing to know before you top the system up is if the system is holding any pressure at all.

When I got mine the gas level had been allowed to drop, over time, to just below the point of letting the compressor kick in. I topped mine up and its been fine ever since.

If you go to Halfords then can check using a gauge what pressure is in the system. I wouldn't normally recommend them but its not hard to unscrew the cover and locate a gauge on a quick release port. It's free and at least it will give you a little more information.

Thanks
.

Get it put onto a proper dalek, or use a set of hp/LP/fill gauges and vacuum pump. Halfords cans are a total waste of £40.  Considering some places charge £45 for a full hook-up on a dalek. Which will drain the system, and re-vacum it, a decent place will even pressure test with nitrogen.

Note I said let them check the system pressure. Not fill it.

Talk about a massive over reaction to a very simple and free check. As most places that refill your aircon will charge you something even if the system can't be recharged.

2
Omega General Help / Re: Another Air Con question
« on: 29 May 2018, 12:47:52 »
I'm looking at topping up the air con but my compressor clutch is not engaging. Before I delve into it will low gas pressure disable the compressor so I will need to top up the gas to get it to run?

Thanks  :)

One interesting thing to know before you top the system up is if the system is holding any pressure at all.

When I got mine the gas level had been allowed to drop, over time, to just below the point of letting the compressor kick in. I topped mine up and its been fine ever since.

If you go to Halfords then can check using a gauge what pressure is in the system. I wouldn't normally recommend them but its not hard to unscrew the cover and locate a gauge on a quick release port. It's free and at least it will give you a little more information.

Thanks

3
Yes but something else is wrong.

It could be your block is full of gunge from sporadic couldn't changes during the cars life.

It could be early signs of head gasket failure.

It could be a lot of things.

Without inspecting the car it's hard to say what it could be.

4
could be a problem with the a/c pump. could be water in the a/c lines. have you had the A/C checked ?

i had the AC refilled with refrigerant just before 2 months , the system seems to be working fine with no issues, how could that affect the car overheating , if there is any water or something similar in system the cooling of the AC system would be poor or non existent but that is not the case , the system works perfectly fine 😊
water in the a/c lines can corrode up. adds more pressure to the pump. pump has more resistance then the engine has to work harder. can lead to the pump failing.

I can see the sense in what you said , and i partially agree with it , but the thing that i cant wrap my mind around it , is the AC system having any moisture in it will make it work so poorly or not even work at all , but as i mentioned the AC system works perfectly fine, what i can tell with what you have mentioned is that when i run the AC system the pressure and load on the engine increase dramatically that a failed water pump cant make it up for to cool it down as needed , but thanks for the eye opener that you mentioned here , let me know if you have more explanation or a different thought in this matter

Thanks alot!

When you use the aircon in a car the engine does run hotter as there is more to cool. Hence the secondary fan.

It sounds like your cooling system is marginal and when you combine the aircon with a hill it is too much and the cooling system fails.

Just because you've changed the radiator doesn't mean your cooling system is good.

So start with the basics and go from there

5
Terry, something like this is what I had in mind:





That shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes to cobble together.


And there's loads of room to do the job in place on a four cylinder Omega.

That's almost what I made except the hole is elongated so you can position it exactly where you need it to be.

6
It's just a drill jig that bolts to the inlet.

Can't decide if your being funny or sarcastic with your congratulations comment.

7
Are the radiator cooling fans all working (2 on a 2.2 I believe).  One should be one whenever the A/C is on, the other come on when the temp is just over midpoint on the gauge (around 92C on a 2.2)

Yes , all the fans are working perfectly and when they need to , the ac fan works on the highest speed when i run it , and the radiator fan works perfectly fine depending on the temperature

Does the car actually show any signs of overheating?

If not my old 2l (X20XEV) did something very similar. After changing the thermostat, radiator etc it turned out to be a poor earth from the engine to chassis.

Good luck.

8
To improve access I can remove the dipstick. Also in the way is an aircon pipe; aircon has never worked and will never work again on this car, so I can get rid of that too. The studs have snapped off a little way inside the threads, making it tricky to centre punch them centrally. Is this easy work for a man who knows what he is doing?
I guess I must ask around for such a man. My son's friend Brummy the welder might know.

If the studs have sheared rather than just unscrew out with the nut they will be stuck in there pretty well.

Although I agree you can drill them out in situ the hardest part is maintaining alignment so you drill down the centre rather than off into the head.

I've made a small drill jig up that solves that problem. It also holds the drill in the correct position so centre punching the stud isn't an issue as long as you start slowly.

Good luck.

9
If you really are getting more boost (going faster at lower rpm) then maybe your waste gate is sticking shut.

I'm not an omega diesel expert though.

10
Omega General Help / Re: X25XE to X30XE
« on: 23 May 2018, 13:01:46 »
Thanks

I do agree all the spare gearboxes I have are marked r25-r25.

Is that a cast-in marking, though? The casing will be common to both, so it probably has (had?) a metal tag or sticker on it indicating the actual spec. Either way, plenty of 3.0/3.2 manual conversions have used the R25 without issue so it's not worth worrying about.

It is in the casting. I should have said R25-R28.

Thanks               

11
Omega General Help / Re: X25XE to X30XE
« on: 22 May 2018, 17:16:50 »
Thanks

I do agree all the spare gearboxes I have are marked r25-r25.

12
Omega General Help / Re: X25XE to X30XE
« on: 22 May 2018, 12:21:45 »
Just a point of order there are only 2 manual gearbox types fitted to petrol Migs, R25-28 and the super rare unicorn that is the R30, I've never seen one but believe it simply is an R25-28 with shot peened gearsets

I have a few spare gearboxes so one day I might take one apart and look to see if I can spot any differences.

I was told that the V6 manual gearboxes had the shot peened gears and the four cylinder cars didn't.

Does anyone know for sure?

13
Omega General Help / Re: X25XE to X30XE
« on: 22 May 2018, 06:59:32 »
One other question just to make life a little easier. I take it the wiring harness etc for the engine management is the same for the X25XE and the X30xe?


I have a feeling there is a gotcha with the throttle position sensor on some configs when swapping. Not sure if it was between 2.5 and 3.0 or long and short plenums but there is a combination where it won't work. If running with the 2.5 ECU, probably best to keep the 2.5 throttle body and wiring harness. (might need to keep the 2.5 plenum if it's a short one).

That's good to know thank you

14
Omega General Help / Re: X25XE to X30XE
« on: 21 May 2018, 20:40:57 »
To find a decent engine now.

Thanks for all the advice. I have a week off work in nine weeks. Enough time to find engine clutch spigot bearing etc.

Thanks again.

Here ya go.  :y http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=142594.0

I'm in North Wales so I will try and find one that can be delivered or is a little closer to collect.

Thanks

15
Omega General Help / Re: X25XE to X30XE
« on: 21 May 2018, 20:38:15 »
My car is already a manual and as far as I can tell has the same diff ratio as the 3L.

I have actually contemplated putting in the auto diff to get a bit more acceleration.

As right now it sits at about 2800rpm at 70mph.

Thanks
In a 3.0 set up with the correct Diff, both the Manual (3.7) and the Auto (3.9) will run around the 2625 to 2650 RPM mark at 70MPH allowing for some Speedo error, your probably find your 70MPH is actually around 67/68 in true speed as the speedo's tend to read high, even on the Ex Police with Calibrated Speedo's they run around the same RPM at a tue speed of 70.

What I can tell you is if you run a Manual set up with a Auto diff (3.9) on the 3.0 setups you be doing around 3000RPm at 70, which is a tad anoying on a Motorway Cruise IMHO.

I cant remember now if the 2.5 (never owned one) had the same 5th gear ratio as the 3.0's, seem to remember hearing the very early ones were and the later prior to going to 2.6 were slightly different.  :-\

My sat navigation and my GPS on my phone both agree that at 70mph I am only doing 2800rpm.

Thanks

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