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[polilara]

I am afraid that I have cylar leakage in right low corner. If that how big job to change. Do I have to remove gas pipes, air condition...

[biggriffin]

Just undo pipes allow to escape,  not ethical but it's already leaking.

[polilara]

It's with aircon, some metal pipes cross ower cylar, actually they are from gearbox. Do I have to remove them?

[biggriffin]

 ? Cylar ?  If you mean ATF then no need to touch Condenser, just remove radiator,  undo pipes on cooler, remove radiator.

[polilara]

Sorry, I did not know the word in English. I believe I am talking about the radiator, the device in front of the car where coolant is cooling down. Original question was that is it difficult to change. I see there are two metal pipes above it, perhaps oil pipes from Auto box. Do I have to remove them? How about Air Con pipes, do I have to remove them?

[biggriffin]

Okay, you need radiator removed,, no need to touch air con.

[BazaJT]

If you look in the maintenance section there is a "how to" under the heading V6 replace aircon condenser the first part of this deals with removing the radiator and should give you the information you want-obviously you can ignore the second part dealing with removing the condenser as you won't need to do that part.

[Doctor Gollum]

The metal pipes can simply be disconnected and tied back to the coolant bottle. As you lift the radiator etc out, undo the two screws attaching the condenser and leave it in the location. Once out, you can undo the four screws attaching the oil cooler to the radiator... Keep it upright and you won't lose a significant amount of transmission fluid 

[polilara]

Thanks for all, good forum, always good tips. I think the leakage is between the plastic "tank" and aluminium cell. Not repairable? After 280 000 km and 18 years perhaps time to buy a new one.

[Doctor Gollum]

Thanks for all, good forum, always good tips. I think the leakage is between the plastic "tank" and aluminium cell. Not repairable? After 280 000 km and 18 years perhaps time to buy a new one.

Not worth messing around 

[polilara]

...and hope someone can edit the Cylar to Radiator, I cannot.

[biggriffin]

Thanks for all, good forum, always good tips. I think the leakage is between the plastic "tank" and aluminium cell. Not repairable? After 280 000 km and 18 years perhaps time to buy a new one.

New radiator will be the type with built in cooler, which is more efficient,than the extension cooler, so I found, car ran 5-10.c cooler with the inbuilt cooler.

[Raeturbo]

Ahh, should have said   jäähdytin   We would have known then

[TheBoy]

Initial title edited, I'm not gonna do every post though

[polilara]

Thanks TB for editing and yes, it is Jäähdytin in Finnish. It is Kylare in Swedish and that's why we call it also Syylari in Finland, I thought it is Cylar...

[Raeturbo]

 

[polilara]

Thanks for all, good forum, always good tips. I think the leakage is between the plastic "tank" and aluminium cell. Not repairable? After 280 000 km and 18 years perhaps time to buy a new one.

New radiator will be the type with built in cooler, which is more efficient,than the extension cooler, so I found, car ran 5-10.c cooler with the inbuilt cooler.

Yes, it came with built in version (Denmark Quality), but perhaps not a must to modify piping to use that, or what do you recommend?

[Doctor Gollum]

Fit it in place of the leaking one along with the original oil cooler

You may have to swap the clips/bracket fastenings from the old radiator but it will all fit as the original 

The plastic plugs on the oil cooler fittings on the new radiator can be left in place in order to keep moisture/dirt out

[polilara]

Thanks DG, that's what I'm going to do.

[polilara]

The metal pipes can simply be disconnected and tied back to the coolant bottle. As you lift the radiator etc out, undo the two screws attaching the condenser and leave it in the location. Once out, you can undo the four screws attaching the oil cooler to the radiator... Keep it upright and you won't lose a significant amount of transmission fluid 

...started finally to remove radiator. Does this above mean that I can remove the oil cooler pipes by unscrewing the Torx bolt above the oil cooler or do I have to remove the metal pipes from rubber hoses? Otherwise seems to be quite simple so far.

[biggriffin]

It's easier to remove the 2 clips from the bottom of the cooler metal pipes pipes, and put something in the pipes to stop leakage,

[polilara]

So I mean is it a risk to try to open bolt No. 3 after 20 years. Removing rubber pipes seems for me more complicated and might put some dirt into oil circulation, too?

[Nick W]

So I mean is it a risk to try to open bolt No. 3 after 20 years. Removing rubber pipes seems for me more complicated and might put some dirt into oil circulation, too?

undo the hoses as BG suggested; easier and less problematic. Wipe them clean first but you do that with every joint, don't you?

[Doctor Gollum]

All I ever did was undo #3 and lift #1 up and back and tie it to the header tank to hold it out of the way

Keep the three radiators upright as you separate them and you won't lose any ATF. no point over complicating it.

[polilara]

All I ever did was undo #3 and lift #1 up and back and tie it to the header tank to hold it out of the way

Keep the three radiators upright as you separate them and you won't lose any ATF. no point over complicating it.

Thanks DG, thats what I, However, decided to do, too.

1. Parts '2' O-rings are no more available, if not reusable does anyone know dimensions of them.
2. I have three fans; two in front of condenser and the third behind radiator. I took this third one "up" with radiator. Could that have been left there down?
3. Looking at pics the rubber hose seems to be a bit "wet" in both ends. Is this normal looking, I have two options if not. Renew the rubber pipe or change the oil cooling to the built in cooler in new Nissens radiator. Then have to do some piping work, do you think worth doing?




I have three fans

[biggriffin]

I changed to the built in cooler, would run about 5'c cooler too, I think you need the pipes from a built in cooler car thou. Been a while.

[Nick W]

I changed to the built in cooler, would run about 5'c cooler too, I think you need the pipes from a built in cooler car thou. Been a while.

he would need the radiator fittings, plus some suitable hose and clamps to join to his existing pipes. The fittings will be a standard metric thread......

[Doctor Gollum]

I remove the bagpipes and rear fan before pulling the radiator... gives you a bit more wiggle room.

Not had an issue with O ring reuse.

Replace the hose, but be mindful that the aluminium pipe is fragile. Personally I would refit it as is.

[polilara]

Thanks for all comments, difficult to make decisions? What I really think would be best solution is to buy this pc No. 3. I guess it fits to my old rubber hoses. Any good source for this?

[Doctor Gollum]

Opel if they still do it, but you have more chance of obtaining a new oil cooler for your car...

[polilara]

Got the pipes from Opel, installed to radiator now. There are two electric sensors in the Radiator with strange sealing, combined copper washer and rubber O-ring. Does anyone know the dimension on this O-ring.

[Enceladus]

That sounds like a standard Dowty washer? A flat metal ring with a Dowty rubber seal bonded into the centre? Maybe your rubber has come loose? Usually they're silver/grey or yellow chromate colour. Not sure that they can be copper, I suspect aluminium or steel is more likely.

The size you need might be 22ID x 27OD x 2.5mm. You should be able to get them from any place that does hydraulic or fluid handling stuff or a decent motor factor. Maybe even a plumbing place, or ebay or Amazon.

The GM Dowty part might have been superseded by a copper washer. Or it might be that the copper is superseded by the Dowty, the part numbers appear to be the same. Whatever, I'd use the same sort of washers you started with.

The Dowty washers require a lot less torque than plain copper, so don't over-tighten.

GM part nr: 24427589 aka production nr: 11079631.

[polilara]

Thanks Enceladus, some pictures, too. Original Rubber hoses can be used if I can separate them from the aluminium pipes.

[Enceladus]

My response concerned your query about "... strange sealing, combined copper washer and rubber O-ring ..". This sounds more like a Dowty washer rather than an O-ring. A Dowty has a seal bonded into the washer, so it's a one piece item, no separate rubber piece.

Your new pipe GM part #90470806 has a banjo fitting at each end. These accept hollow banjo bolts. A seal is usually required on either side and EPC says these are copper washers M14 x 18mm x 1.5mm. Item 10 on the drawing you posted earlier and is GM part # 11016282. Are these the strange seals you mean? The M14 copper washers are/were widely used as oil pan sump plugs and on the filler plug on Omega autoboxes. So you should be able to get them at any auto factors.

Don't reuse them, at least not on this job. Renew.

Your second photo doesn't seem to show any such copper sealing washers under the head of the banjo. Or one on the other side. What's the white ring? Is that a nylon insert in the brass radiator fitting? Or maybe some PTFE tape? Or is it some sort of seal that's specific to the make of radiator?

Some heat from a hair dryer might help free the hoses from the pipes.

[polilara]

Thanks for comments, with Banjo I bought 14/18*1.5 four pc Aluminium seals, found somewhere that Al is ok, the strange ones were from those two temperature sensors which are screwed to radiator plastic "tanks" found them, too, all ok.

[polilara]

My response concerned your query about "... strange sealing, combined copper washer and rubber O-ring ..". This sounds more like a Dowty washer rather than an O-ring. A Dowty has a seal bonded into the washer, so it's a one piece item, no separate rubber piece.

Your new pipe GM part #90470806 has a banjo fitting at each end. These accept hollow banjo bolts. A seal is usually required on either side and EPC says these are copper washers M14 x 18mm x 1.5mm. Item 10 on the drawing you posted earlier and is GM part # 11016282. Are these the strange seals you mean? The M14 copper washers are/were widely used as oil pan sump plugs and on the filler plug on Omega autoboxes. So you should be able to get them at any auto factors.

Don't reuse them, at least not on this job. Renew.

Your second photo doesn't seem to show any such copper sealing washers under the head of the banjo. Or one on the other side. What's the white ring? Is that a nylon insert in the brass radiator fitting? Or maybe some PTFE tape? Or is it some sort of seal that's specific to the make of radiator?

Some heat from a hair dryer might help free the hoses from the pipes.

Thanks again Enceladus, now better time to explain...
The second photo you refer was just from the preassembly to check whether extra piping work needed, below completed with aluminium seals. The "white rings" are made of brass. They are some kind of reducing collars for the part 90470806. They were originally there, perhaps white material is some kind of "Loctite"? Nissens 63073A.

[terry paget]

On changing my Vectra radiator I had difficulty sealing the temperature sensor screwed into bottom right hand corner. I reused existing washer, I think it was copper. What should I have used?

[polilara]

What I had in my Omega was some kind of composite Steel&Rubber like "Dowty" as Enceladus proposed. The rubber part broke when sensor removed. I bought yesterday new seals from normal spare part shop and used some Loctite silicon as well, not yet tested. I do not know how the original looks like.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bonded_seal

[Enceladus]

On changing my Vectra radiator I had difficulty sealing the temperature sensor screwed into bottom right hand corner. I reused existing washer, I think it was copper. What should I have used?

I would go like for like unless there is some specific reason not to. So if your sensor had a copper washer then replace it with a copper. That said a Dowty seal washer would probably also work fine, it just needs a lot less torque. Copper (or aluminium) sealing washers crush and deform to make the seal and this requires more torque to achieve. The ring on the Dowty is usually steel, doesn't crush as it's the rubber bit that seals.

The copper also hardens, hence it's best to renew as opposed to reuse. The more times it's reused the less likely it is to seal properly.

If yours is working then fine. The old maxim of 'if it ain't broke then don't fix it' applies.

[polilara]

Job jobbed, thanks for "General Help"