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[Titanium]

Good evening everyone,

I hope you are all well.

My Mums Omega 3.2 Elite V6 (2002) has spring a coolant leak. After a lot of research on this very forum I am almost 95% sure its the Heater Bypass Valve (HBV). The symptoms are:

• Puddle on the floor with the engine running and the AC system ON.
• Water running from the left-hand side (drivers-side) at the rear of the engine, between the off-side exhaust and the bell-housing. Looks like its running around the bell housing and dripping off.
• If you use a torch and peer at the back of the engine you can see the leak coming from the area of the Heater Bypass Valve (high up), but I can't actually see it running from the valve itself as there is too much engine in the way and I can't look round a corner!
• If you put the climate control (AC) into 'Off' mode before you switch off the engine, then start the car the next day with the climate control still 'Off' there is no leak. Switch the climate control 'On' and the leak instantly starts.
• Leak stops when you turn off the ignition.

I will be getting a local garage to do the work and I have read its best to remove the scuttle and 'struggle' than remove the plenum. I'd rather the plenum wasn't removed as its never been off the car and I think its best left alone as I expect there's a lot that can go wrong if its not re-fitted correctly.

Whats your view? How likely is it the HBV? and should I ask the garage to go the scuttle removal or plenum removal route?

Thank you very much for your help.

Gary

[johnnydog]

It certainly looks like the HBV being at fault- it's not uncommon at all.  Especially as you can visibly see a water leak from that area.
Last time I did mine, it was scuttle off and I also removed the wiper linkage complete with the motor for better access (as the wiper arms are off anyway).
It's not difficult to remove the plenum either - you say it's never been off, but I think that is unlikely if it's had the cambelt /tensioner done as required. It's not a problem reseating it correctly - 4 bolts locate it accurately.
As regards the garage doing it - if so, and going down the scuttle route, I've seen the twist retaining clips broken along with the holes on the scuttle damaged when there's been a previous attempt to remove it without removing any or all of the clips under the lower windscreen moulding. I actually find it easier to access the clips by just removing the lower moulding, and the condition of the lower windscreen aperture can also be checked properly for corrosion whilst it's out of the way. A quick clean up of the moulding before reassembly and the slightest smear of rubber grease on the tongue and it just pushes back into place. Saves struggling twisting the moulding up and possibly damaging it to get the screwdriver in and getting the clips out with the moulding in place.
Worth in my opinion suggesting that to them, especially if they are unfamiliar with Omegas.

[dave the builder]

I replaced my HBV last week by removing the scuttle and wiper motor  ,plenty of room

if the HBV is original ,never been changed ,then it will have GM spring hose clamps .

care should be taken when doing the job though ,there's several breather & vac pipes etc

If your plenum has never been off  are the breathers clear etc 

they're all 20+ years old now (omegas)

 

[Doctor Gollum]

The HBV will almost certainly have been replaced... it's practically a service item.

HBV isn't the only leak source that presents at the back of the block. It could also be the oil cooler or thermostat housing as both drain to the rear.

Does the rate of the leak change with the temperature settings on the climate panel... ie worse on Lo and better on Hi or vice versa  if yes, then it's almost certainly the HBV. If no, then plenum and intake off and pressure test it... any leak will be self evident.

Unless you can guarantee the original screen and/or genuine trim/frame then removing the scuttle will lead to issues. This is partly down to collected dirt in the frame if poorly fitted of pattern frames are used together with the age of the seal trim*.

The frame and trim, including the lower strip, are fitted to the screen BEFORE it is fitted to the car and the screen assembly is then fitted AFTER the scuttle. It isn't designed to have the lower trim removed and refitted.

The only three jobs on the Omega that require removal of the scuttle are 1. Wiper motor replacement. 2 Brake servo replacement. 3. To allow proper preparation during screen replacement and then it's refitted before the screen to ensure correct screen placement.

Removing the plenum is

*Actually a misnomer as it seals nothing.

[johnnydog]

The HBV will almost certainly have been replaced... it's practically a service item.

HBV isn't the only leak source that presents at the back of the block. It could also be the oil cooler or thermostat housing as both drain to the rear.

Does the rate of the leak change with the temperature settings on the climate panel... ie worse on Lo and better on Hi or vice versa  if yes, then it's almost certainly the HBV. If no, then plenum and intake off and pressure test it... any leak will be self evident.

Unless you can guarantee the original screen and/or genuine trim/frame then removing the scuttle will lead to issues. This is partly down to collected dirt in the frame if poorly fitted of pattern frames are used together with the age of the seal trim*.

The frame and trim, including the lower strip, are fitted to the screen BEFORE it is fitted to the car and the screen assembly is then fitted AFTER the scuttle. It isn't designed to have the lower trim removed and refitted.

The only three jobs on the Omega that require removal of the scuttle are 1. Wiper motor replacement. 2 Brake servo replacement. 3. To allow proper preparation during screen replacement and then it's refitted before the screen to ensure correct screen placement.

Removing the plenum is

*Actually a misnomer as it seals nothing.

We've been here before , and I think we must agree to disagree. The screens are the originals on my current Omegas, and on my Perol Blue Elite, due to particular jobs that have needed doing, I have removed the lower moulding to remove the scuttle a good few times with no detrement. Unless the person removing it is ham-fisted, then it it can be removed and replaced with care with no issues.
I don't where you have got the notion that it isn't designed to be removed in that manner, or is it that you have damaged your retainer in the past removing the lower moulding? I certainly haven't, and I don't agree with your comments. There's more than one way to skin a cat...But others are free to tackle it any way they see most appropriate.

[Doctor Gollum]

You've clearly never owned an ex traffic car

[dave the builder]

You've clearly never owned an ex traffic car

I don't see why anyone would want to own an "ex police car" 

they are "Rode Hard and Put Up Wet", thrashed to within an inch of their life ,hacked up wiring ,metal fatigue from doing "sleeping policemen" at 60 MPH etc .

abused more than a hire car that Jamie (TB) dislikes 

My HBV was the original factory item ,2003 ,so 20 years old ,had only just started dripping last week, replaced PDQ ,once the engine was cooled and the SKUTTLE and WIPER MOTOR was REMOVED 

I'm not saying that doing the job by removing the plenum is a bad idea , but that route isn't issue free either, if done badly ,plenum seals .O-rings etc are not easy to get these days ,it's pretty important all the breathers are put back correctly etc ,not a job I'd want a "quick fit fitter" or unfamiliar grease monkey doing 

the original poster doesn't want to do the job ,so farming it out to a local garage ,which have probably never seen an Omega on their ramps .

the HBV is a pretty simple  DIY home mechanic job ,which, if done slowly and with care ,should go without problems or other parts needed 

Other than 3 new ,good quality jubilee clips to replace the ****ing GM spring hose clamps 

[johnnydog]

You've clearly never owned an ex traffic car

So what's that got to do with the 'price of fish'?
Are you suggesting that repairs to Police Vehicles were done to a very poor standard by ham fisted bafoons who couldn't think for themselves and decide the best and most practical way to approach a repair job, causing unnecessary damage along the way? Sounds like that's your suggestion.....
And again (clearly) you are wrong, as I have owned an ex Police (NCA) Omega, and also another make a good few years ago that was ex Police....

You can't 'force' your methods of doing repairs based on your issues experienced owning an ex traffic car as the ONLY way to approach a repair - most Omegas owned by OOFers were in the private sector, so actual Police Vehicle ownership is quite irrelevant really in this instance....

[Doctor Gollum]

First things first, your attack requires me to justify my experience. I have owned several Omegas for approximately 250,000 miles of personal time with them combined, and almost all of the work on them in my ownership was done by me. These cars included 3 ex plod 3.2s, 2x 2.6s, 2x 2.2s, a 2.0 16v and a 3.2 Elite. Two of the ex plod cars had interiors replaced, OU54AEW had three different interiors fitted over time and extensive wiring and two significant panel replacements, not to mention the ongoing servicing/preventative maintenance required to pass an MoT/Council inspection every six months with no advisories over the course of 170k or so on that car alone. Not to mention two windscreens, one of which require three call backs to actually fit correctly. So whilst you might not agree with my approach sometimes, you can at least do me the courtesy of actually having some hands on experience with the Omega.

Right, back to the scuttle...Three out of three plod cars had incorrectly fitted screens and trims. And Two of these I was the first owner out of service, and both were under five years old. The issue is that the trims actually set the height of the screen in the aperture, fit the trims afterwards and the screen will invariably end up in the wrong position in any/all three planes.

The scuttle trim clips require the bottom trim to either be forced out of position or removed. The frame the trim sits in doesn't take kindly from being twisted away if the trim has been glued in (a bodge if the frames are reused, fitted in the wrong order or aftermarket ones fitted) or simply stuck from the culmination of dirt and time, as the force applied distorts the wafer thin steel clips where the lower frame connects to the side frames meaning that it will potentially never sit right again or repeatedly slide away from the base of the screen allowing water and dirt in under the scuttle. At a glance it may still appear correct.

The trim can also be stretched/distorted if removed forcibly. You may well be perfect and never damage so much as a piece of double sided tape when you work on your cars, but for all its apparent simplicity, removing and replacing the scuttle is easy to get wrong especially with the passage of time.

For the purposes of an as yet undiagnosed coolant leak removing the plenum instead of the scuttle affords much better access to the common leak points plus the opportunity to clean the breathers through and inspect the coolant system components under the inlet bridge. Especially as, if the HBV proves not to be the source, then the plenum is coming off regardless.

[Doctor Gollum]

You've clearly never owned an ex traffic car

I don't see why anyone would want to own an "ex police car" 

they are "Rode Hard and Put Up Wet", thrashed to within an inch of their life ,hacked up wiring ,metal fatigue from doing "sleeping policemen" at 60 MPH etc .

abused more than a hire car that Jamie (TB) dislikes 

My HBV was the original factory item ,2003 ,so 20 years old ,had only just started dripping last week, replaced PDQ ,once the engine was cooled and the SKUTTLE and WIPER MOTOR was REMOVED 

I'm not saying that doing the job by removing the plenum is a bad idea , but that route isn't issue free either, if done badly ,plenum seals .O-rings etc are not easy to get these days ,it's pretty important all the breathers are put back correctly etc ,not a job I'd want a "quick fit fitter" or unfamiliar grease monkey doing 

the original poster doesn't want to do the job ,so farming it out to a local garage ,which have probably never seen an Omega on their ramps .

the HBV is a pretty simple  DIY home mechanic job ,which, if done slowly and with care ,should go without problems or other parts needed 

Other than 3 new ,good quality jubilee clips to replace the ****ing GM spring hose clamps 

Price and opportunity mostly.
£5k for a 3.5 year-old manual 3.2... Second one was £1,800 and 4.5 years old bought because of its late registration, full maintenance records and colour along with being a blank canvas and served me well. Third was bought as a project.

[dave the builder]

You've clearly never owned an ex traffic car

I don't see why anyone would want to own an "ex police car" 

they are "Rode Hard and Put Up Wet", thrashed to within an inch of their life ,hacked up wiring ,metal fatigue from doing "sleeping policemen" at 60 MPH etc .

Price and opportunity mostly.

"things are cheap for a reason "
AND
"buy cheap ,buy twice thrice " 

I blew a massive 400  on mine
been spending ever since ,that's the nature of "car ownership" 

[Doctor Gollum]

You've clearly never owned an ex traffic car

I don't see why anyone would want to own an "ex police car" 

they are "Rode Hard and Put Up Wet", thrashed to within an inch of their life ,hacked up wiring ,metal fatigue from doing "sleeping policemen" at 60 MPH etc .

Price and opportunity mostly.

"things are cheap for a reason "
AND
"buy cheap ,buy twice thrice " 

I blew a massive 400  on mine
been spending ever since ,that's the nature of "car ownership" 

Too true

That said, white retail Omegas were few and far between, especially if it has to be under a certain age and have service history. Could have spent the same again having a lower mileage more expensive car repainted, but didn't.

[johnnydog]

First things first, your attack requires me to justify my experience. I have owned several Omegas for approximately 250,000 miles of personal time with them combined, and almost all of the work on them in my ownership was done by me. These cars included 3 ex plod 3.2s, 2x 2.6s, 2x 2.2s, a 2.0 16v and a 3.2 Elite. Two of the ex plod cars had interiors replaced, OU54AEW had three different interiors fitted over time and extensive wiring and two significant panel replacements, not to mention the ongoing servicing/preventative maintenance required to pass an MoT/Council inspection every six months with no advisories over the course of 170k or so on that car alone. Not to mention two windscreens, one of which require three call backs to actually fit correctly. So whilst you might not agree with my approach sometimes, you can at least do me the courtesy of actually having some hands on experience with the Omega.

Right, back to the scuttle...Three out of three plod cars had incorrectly fitted screens and trims. And Two of these I was the first owner out of service, and both were under five years old. The issue is that the trims actually set the height of the screen in the aperture, fit the trims afterwards and the screen will invariably end up in the wrong position in any/all three planes.

The scuttle trim clips require the bottom trim to either be forced out of position or removed. The frame the trim sits in doesn't take kindly from being twisted away if the trim has been glued in (a bodge if the frames are reused, fitted in the wrong order or aftermarket ones fitted) or simply stuck from the culmination of dirt and time, as the force applied distorts the wafer thin steel clips where the lower frame connects to the side frames meaning that it will potentially never sit right again or repeatedly slide away from the base of the screen allowing water and dirt in under the scuttle. At a glance it may still appear correct.

The trim can also be stretched/distorted if removed forcibly. You may well be perfect and never damage so much as a piece of double sided tape when you work on your cars, but for all its apparent simplicity, removing and replacing the scuttle is easy to get wrong especially with the passage of time.

For the purposes of an as yet undiagnosed coolant leak removing the plenum instead of the scuttle affords much better access to the common leak points plus the opportunity to clean the breathers through and inspect the coolant system components under the inlet bridge. Especially as, if the HBV proves not to be the source, then the plenum is coming off regardless.

Yes, you may have had numerous Omegas including Police spec models and worked on them gaining experience of their weak points and issues / rectification work from mechanics - including so called Police mechanics - working on them. Doesn't mean your opinion on these matters is right or the correct approach....it's just your opinion.
But you are not the only person to have had several Omegas and done galactic miles in them. Since 2004, I have owned 11 Omegas (ran out of fingers /thumbs to count - maybe the odd one or two more!), still own 3 Elites, do the majority of my own work on them etc etc
But just because you have owned several Omegas, and worked on them, does that mean that your way of doing aspects of repairs, or because repairs had issues through incompetent mechanics / fitters whatever, your observations/ methods are gospel, or the method that everyone MUST adhere to? You portray yourself as the oracle of the Omega, and owners must attempt repairs your way or woe betide.....
I've never known anything like it on any forum - the way you portray yourself suggesting nothing but your approach or way is acceptable, the abrupt responses you often give, and the dross you occasionally come out with, is quite frankly unbelievable. If it wasn't for my love of Omegas, I would have given up on this forum purely because of your attitude - it stinks.
Now, why don't you try to go back to giving helpful suggestions to Omega issues rather than forcing your often self opinionated  and not always correct thoughts on other OOFers....

[Andy B]

Johnny does have a point ..... Allan has been the/part of the reason why various people have left the forum over the years 🙄

The last HBV I changed was on a campsite with basic tools .... i just removed the scuttle (&maybe the wipers ..... it was a while back now)

[Doctor Gollum]

Having a different opinion based on different experiences should not make something wrong. Personally I wouldn't remove the scuttle unless absolutely necessary. Others are entitled to disagree. It would be interesting to see what TIS says on the subject of replacing the HBV, then perhaps that could be set as the definitive method rather than squabbling over opinion.

It's akin to arguing over how to make a cup of tea. More than one way to skin a cat, so do what works for you and alternatives provide options.

Incidentally, I would be very surprised if police mechanics actually fitted windscreens.

[johnnydog]

Can you not see it DG - having an opinion and therefore offering suggestions relative to the subject and your experience of carrying out the said repair or any fault finding is what owners would like to get in response to queries - not to have your views (whether right or wrong, but in your mind the ONLY method to carry out the repair because that is how you have tackled it) forced down their throat as the only way to approach the problem. Helpful suggestions put in a polite and not condescending manner go along way to commanding respect, rather than your attitude that quite frankly alienates members.
I may be out spoken with my thoughts about this, but I can say with my hand on my heart, I am certainly not on my own with these views about your attitude.
Incidentally, your reference regarding Police mechanics and windscreens is bit of a deflection I guess.....?
There is no definitive method about doing jobs - lowering the diff to change rear springs is one classic example - changed a good  number over the years and never once lowered the diff to do the job. Just because I change them with a different method to that in the maintenance guide doesn't mean that that is only way, and the way others MUST do it, or the World will suddenly end...
Take a step back, and look at your comments on this and other topics, and maybe, just maybe, you will understand the reasoning that has brought this to the fore....

[dave the builder]

I've had 4 carltons and one omega in the last 23 years (as my daily drivers)

I've never lowered the diff to replace rear springs 

maybe i should read the manual before doing jobs 

[Doctor Gollum]

I've had 4 carltons and one omega in the last 23 years (as my daily drivers)

I've never lowered the diff to replace rear springs 

maybe i should read the manual before doing jobs 

[johnnydog]

And I also think that because you do not own an Omega and have not done for many a year, your memory of what is removed to get the scuttle off is a little hazy, and therefore not entirely correct. You refer to the bottom trim being forced out of position or removed to access the scuttle trim clips ( I assume you actually mean the moulding here). The frame / retainer also doesn't have to be twisted away in any circumstances, to remove the 'lower trim' (moulding to give it its correct name), which in turn gives good access to the twist 'pins' to then remove the plastic scuttle panel. Why would you even consider removing the bottom  frame? The moulding yes for easy access, and to prevent damage to it and the retainer / frame caused by twisting it upwards to access the twist pins / clips. Your reference to the windscreen components is a little misleading...
To remove the lower moulding (it's correct name), I simply get a pick tool, lubricate it with rubber grease, gently ease the tongue at one end out of the retainer/ frame or whatever you wish to call it, and then slide the pick tool along the length of the frame against the tongue of the moulding which doesn't put undue pressure on either the frame and tongue and also saves any distortion of the moulding. Helped of course with the moulding tongue having been previously lightly lubricated....
Works every time for me. But obviously your method has previously caused you issues and maybe damage to the frame and or moulding.
But this is just my point. Helpful suggestions...

Any way, I'm going to leave this whole subject at that now and give you time to reflect....

[Doctor Gollum]

@Johhnydog...

In jumping straight to the point re the scuttle, you missed a whole paragraph regarding the coolant leaks and alternative sources to the ubiquitous HBV.

As the car in question is going to be repaired by a garage they will, hopefully, carry out a complete diagnosis and repair it as they see fit. All of which makes any advice/opinion/guidance/experience offered here somewhat moot.

Besides, this is the internet, unless anyone posting in response to any given query has actually set eyes on the car to which the query relates, all that can be offered is experience/opinion/conjecture/guesstimate and therefore can neither be construed as right or wrong. Being as stubborn as LZ does not make someone right or wrong.

James V6 is probably the most forthcoming with actually getting stuck in with assistance, and I have also carried out various jobs for members over the years, albeit less so more recently due to availability constraints. Rather than picking holes in whatever advice/opinion/conjecture etc other people deign to put forward, perhaps you might bite your tongue. I might then be compelled to do the same.

[Doctor Gollum]

And I also think that because you do not own an Omega and have not done for many a year, your memory of what is removed to get the scuttle off is a little hazy, and therefore not entirely correct. You refer to the bottom trim being forced out of position or removed to access the scuttle trim clips ( I assume you actually mean the moulding here). The frame / retainer also doesn't have to be twisted away in any circumstances, to remove the 'lower trim' (moulding to give it its correct name), which in turn gives good access to the twist 'pins' to then remove the plastic scuttle panel. Why would you even consider removing the bottom  frame? The moulding yes for easy access, and to prevent damage to it and the retainer / frame caused by twisting it upwards to access the twist pins / clips. Your reference to the windscreen components is a little misleading...
To remove the lower moulding (it's correct name), I simply get a pick tool, lubricate it with rubber grease, gently ease the tongue at one end out of the retainer/ frame or whatever you wish to call it, and then slide the pick tool along the length of the frame against the tongue of the moulding which doesn't put undue pressure on either the frame and tongue and also saves any distortion of the moulding. Helped of course with the moulding tongue having been previously lightly lubricated....
Works every time for me. But obviously your method has previously caused you issues and maybe damage to the frame and or moulding.
But this is just my point. Helpful suggestions...

Any way, I'm going to leave this whole subject at that now and give you time to reflect....

Wipers off, six quarter turn clips and the rubber lip from the forward edge is all that the scuttle is held in by and unplug the washer hose and heated washer jet loom as you lift it away. From my hazy memory

The lower moulding is fitted to the frame that slides onto the windscreen, (the rest of the moulding is attached the same way). Replacement screens are typically provided with aftermarket frames and the factory mouldings quite often do not fit into these aftermarket frames as securely as they should. And as the frames are of an inferior quality to the factory ones, they can crack, rendering them even more ineffective.

To clip the moulding back into the frame you have to apply downward pressure to, hopefully, lock it into place. The torsion acting on the frame stems from the fact that it is only supported by the edge of the glass as there's nothing underneath it to prevent it being pushed away from the lower edge of the screen. The connection between the lower frame and side frames are thinner than a bank card and once corroded have limited strength if you start manhandling the mouldings.

Your method may work well for you with your pristine low mileage garage kept show piece Omegas still blessed with their originally fitted screens/frames/mouldings.

My issues in the area of the screen mouldings stem from poorly fitted screens and aftermarket frames/trims, the reuse of the originals in poor condition, or a combination of all the above. Ergo I would avoid removing the scuttle and disturbing the moulding  and, indirectly, the frame it locates in unless absolutely necessary.

I also add milk to the tea then remove the teabag, which some may consider wrong.

[STEMO]

Sorry about all this Gary (OP), it happens from time to time on all forums. On this particular forum, people really do know their omegas and, as is obvious, have been maintaining them, in their own way, for years.
I hope, after all of this, it actually is the hbv 

[johnnydog]

Yes, I too apologise Gary for the responses. You had what I consider a helpful and reasonable response to your query, until no.3 soured the mix. I think you can get the gist of how the responses unfolded, and the underlying cause for them. It was unfortunate that it was on your topic, and that I felt the need to highlight (once again) that there is no room on a forum such as this for anything other than helpful, informative suggestions (suggestions - that's all they are!!) from which the OP can then hopefully tackle his chosen method of repair, rather having to wade through curt, abrupt, adamant and often condescending replies which do not encourage members to continue with the OOF.
We all enjoy our Omegas (most of the time!), and whatever use we make of them want to keep them running for as long as we can , which this forum will go a long way in assisting members to do so.
Incidentally, I wish a single part of the paragraph 4 in reply #20 was true.....pristine low mileage garage kept show piece Omegas . For a minute, I thought there was a a hint of jealousy there, but surely not....
So, I personally apologise Gary again - not for my comments.because I felt it had to be said, but for the fact that it came out during your topic.
And I sincerely hope you solve the problem and get it repaired satisfactorily to enjoy the Omega!
That is it from me...finished.

[Doctor Gollum]

Back on track, and taken from.my original response...

The HBV will almost certainly have been replaced... it's practically a service item.

HBV isn't the only leak source that presents at the back of the block. It could also be the oil cooler or thermostat housing as both drain to the rear.

Does the rate of the leak change with the temperature settings on the climate panel... ie worse on Lo and better on Hi or vice versa  if yes, then it's almost certainly the HBV. If no, then plenum and intake off and pressure test it... any leak will be self evident.

If it's going to a garage, they should diagnose it for themselves and repair it as they see fit regardless of what anyone here might have to say on the matter.

Incidentally, if you add your location to your profile, there are still various members dotted around who might be able to give a more hands on diagnosis

[biggriffin]

To the OP,, if you add you location there might be members close by who can offer help..

 And to stir the pot, I don't remove scuttle to change HBV,, and I've done 1 or 2.

[Titanium]

Hello Everyone,

It seems this post has lead to some lively debate.

I'd like to clear up a few points:

1. My mum has owned the car since 2003 when she bought it from a Vauxhall dealership. It was the dealer principles car.
2. The HBV has never been replaced, unless it was done in the first year of its life. So I therefore assume its original one and has done really well. The whole car has done really well, apart from the passenger door solenoid, blower motor and a broken rear spring, this leak is the only issue it's had in 20 years.
3. I'd like to do it myself as I worry about how careful a garage will be, and what issues this lack of care could create in future.
4. Sadly I don't have the mechanical competency, experience or the correct tools (Torx socket set, torque wrench) to replace the plenme successfully and for this it will have to go to a garage. Sadly we can't afford Vauxhall prices and I don't believe there is any mechanics left at any Vauxhall dealership who has seen, let alone worked on an Omega. So I don't trust them to do a good job either. My local garage will listen if I tell them the Omega aficionados on this forum recommend a way forward. It makes it easier for them.
5. Without wanting to cause a further discussion the cam belt hasn't been replaced. It probably should be done, but Mum drives less than 1000 miles a year so we are holding off on that. Soon she may not be able to drive at all (she's 85) so I want to keep the car going a bit longer for her at minimum cost.
6. It's the original windscreen.
7. The bottom trim on the windscreen has dropped off all the way along (falls off every time I wash the car), apart from last 10mm on the passenger side, so I hope I can (very carefully) remove this and gain access to the scuttle screws without having to place undue force on the screen/frame.
8. After everyones advice and help I think I may be able to remove the scuttle to gain the access necessary.
9. I also think I'd like to remove the wiper mechanism, but does this use regular nuts and bolt or torx bolts? I have torx screwdriver, but not a torx socket set.
10. The leak stops when you turn off the climate control and starts again when you turn it on. I can see its not coming from the heater matrix as its not coming inside the car or out of the AC drain pipes. I can also see the water dripping high-up from the location of the HBV.
11. I'm going to order a HBV from e-bay as they are inexpensive. Would you trust this IS a genuine part?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305035550568?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338986375&customid=Cj0KCQjwx5qoBhDyARIsAPbMagAn6FHrn5Zc_HxrChfkSPlFIb8rgBPq81vHuFpT81QxKFTecY59rPcaAu5rEALw_wcB&toolid=20006

I really appreciate everyones comments, and it's great to see how passionate everyone is about their Omegas. Everyone has different views in life. I'm pleased to get everyones opinion and then I can then make my own decision. Everyones personal experience gives their individual view weight which is great. However, in life we can't all agree all the time and there is nothing wrong with that.

Finally my Mum and Dad once bought a manual 1987 Vauxhall Senator 3.0 which was an ex-Leicestershire Constabulary motorway car. It was the best car we could afford at the time. Ex-police cars were cheap(er). It was a great car, but it was far from perfect. A previous front-on collision must have split the battery at some point in its past and the acid rotted the chassis from the inside. But it was great while it lasted. You could pull away from a stop in third! I wouldn't buy another ex-cop car though, it was too rough around the edges.

Thanks once again to everyone for taking the time to respond to my post.

Have a great weekend.

Kind regards,

Gary

[Enceladus]

@Titanium

The Omega versions were all superseded by the Vectra part 95517483. The only difference is that the Vectra version has a curtain shroud around the vacuum port. Otherwise it's identical as to function and fit. Good for any Omega B or B2.

A genuine GM part has been hard to come by for some years. However the ones here seem to be good quality, at least the last one I bought was. Looked to be a genuine part.

The one you linked to in the post above is allegedly part# 90566947 which is without the shroud. This has been superseded. 90566947 is still fine if it's good quality. If it's not then the vacuum spigot might snap off due to the poor quality plastic.

[Doctor Gollum]

Ok, so we're not too worried about getting the scuttle out. Moving on...

Point 10 confirms the issue to be most likely the HBV rather than a split hose or the oil cooler plate. LSC were usually a pretty reliable source of parts, but not bought from them for a while.

Running the cambelt that long is certainly a roll of the dice be interesting to see exactly what state it's in...

Where abouts are you/the car?

[countrywoman]

The ex plod estate I bought for £50 back in 2002 had dropped the cambelt at 90k due to the top roller collapsing.