Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[MotormanV6]

I've got to replace a broken spring on the mini-facelift MV6, but at the moment, I can't seem to get hold of the 'controlled yield' (stretch) bolts. I know the torque setting is 90Nm + 45' + 15' for new bolts but as I'll probably have to reuse the old ones, any suggestions as to torque?

[Doctor Gollum]

Same as originally used.

The torque is to prevent the elastic limit from being reached. Don't over tighten them and you'll be fine

[MotormanV6]

Ok..so just torque it up to 90Nm and I'll be good to go? Although I'm reasonably competent, this is the first time that I've removed the suspension leg, are there likely to be any difficulties I'm likely to encounter? - (I should add I'm fitting new springs and while I'm about it replacing the leg/shock absorber and I've got a mate coming over with a proper spring compressor). Thanks 

[Nick W]

Ok..so just torque it up to 90Nm and I'll be good to go? Although I'm reasonably competent, this is the first time that I've removed the suspension leg, are there likely to be any difficulties I'm likely to encounter? - (I should add I'm fitting new springs and while I'm about it replacing the leg/shock absorber and I've got a mate coming over with a proper spring compressor). Thanks 

The most important thing to remember is that the car will need a full alignment session once you have it back together.
Omega springs will have sagged, so replacing both is essential. Strip and regrease the strut bearings whilst you have the strut apart.


Our usual advice is to replace everything, which saves a lot of time and expense and makes a big improvement to how the car drives.

[MotormanV6]

Ok, I'll replace both springs and shocks. Thanks for the tip on greasing the strut bearing, I'll do that while I've got it all dismantled and there's a local firm who does camber/caster/toe settings for about 90 quid so I'll probably go down that road when I've completed the job. Many thanks for all your help...

[Nick W]

Ok, I'll replace both springs and shocks. Thanks for the tip on greasing the strut bearing, I'll do that while I've got it all dismantled and there's a local firm who does camber/caster/toe settings for about 90 quid so I'll probably go down that road when I've completed the job. Many thanks for all your help...

Personally, I would replace everything: shocks, springs, strut tops(7), bearings(6), bumpstops(2&3), wishbone bushes and track rods.


The only bits in this picture that aren't new are Nos 1, 4 and 5.

[MotormanV6]

I did the wishbones when I got the car a while back. So I'll take your advice and replace the strut tops, bearings and bump stops/dust cover thing. Might as well as I've got it all dismantled....Thanks.

[Doctor Gollum]

Unless poly bushed add in both bushes and ball joint each side.

Fixing the suspension wear properly is an £800-1000 exercise

Which is predominantly why a cheap Omega is for sale.

[Nick W]

Unless poly bushed add in both bushes and ball joint each side.

Fixing the suspension wear properly is an £800-1000 exercise

That's true if you're paying someone to do it. It's <£200 and and 90 minutes work per side to DIY. Then another £100 for the alignment, which you can't do yourself.


Robust spring compressors are required both for safety and speed:

[Doctor Gollum]

That was the cost without alignment to replace front wishbones, front shocks, springs, hd topmounts and fittings, rear poly subframe bushes, rear shocks, springs and tyres. Using decent, branded parts: Sachs shocks, Kilen HD springs all round, Sachs front fittings, ATE wishbones with Delphi ball joints, Power flex poly bushes, VX vertical bushes, and Pedders rear subframe bushes. Tyres might have been Hankook winters.

The car, as purchased, drove like a sloppy jelly and the tyres were badly worn. Typical 100k Omega that had never been worked on. Obviously drove like a new car once done.