Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: JamesV6CDX on 17 January 2016, 14:30:04
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I recently bought an Elite with oil cooler failure, after seeing it discussed in the "Where to buy a decent Elite" thread. I couldn't view, as I was abroad, so decided to take a punt due to it being very local and buy it unseen.
I bid, on the basis that I might get burnt, and adjusted the amount accordingly, working on the principle that if it's a total heap, I could recover my costs breaking it. I won the auction for £320.
The car was delivered yesterday. It was advertised as having head gasket failure. Having had a look I can see that it's classic oil cooler failure - there are traces of oil in the coolant tank, but none on the dipstick.
Apart from some rust creeping into the arches which is only just about visible without kneeling down and looking by the wheel, the body is immaculate, I cannot see a mark on it. It's covered in crap having sat for two years, but my gut feeling is that I could bring that paintwork up really, really nicely.
The interior, whilst is a bit dirty in places, would come up very nicely indeed with a clean, the leather is not excessively worn. The drivers doorcard is poor, but I have a spare in good nick.
102,000 miles. No MOT. No advisories on the last one, aside of tyres and exhaust, which I don't count because they are consumables.
The battery is as dead as a dodo, to be expected having sat so long. I will try a charge but don't hold up much hope, I think it'll need replacing.
When jump started (to move it off the truck onto the drive) it started OK. The emissions light immediately began flashing, and it was idling as rough as a badgers. Definitely misfiring. It also cut out once on the drive. I think the reality is it was struggling due to the battery having literally, nothing. The ABS and TC lights flickered and the dash did funny things.
I ran it again briefly this morning. It immediately began missing and the light flashing. The codes were 0300 (Random misfire) and 0301 - misfire cylinder one. Once given a gentle rev, the misfire seemed to clear and was only then intermittent, with the odd "pop" through the exhaust. I didn't run it for long at all, as I don't want to cause more oil cooler contamination.
The seller describes the "cats being blown through". This isn't the case at all. My gut feeling is the cats are absolutely fine - it would appear that the centre exhaust section is hanging on by a thread. It's simply an exhaust blow, not a cat problem.
Two tyres have a fair bit of life left in them. Two need replacing before the MOT. The fronts are SLIGHTLY more worn on the inner edges, but there's no telling if this has happened over a long period of time or not.
My gut feeling is that this car can be saved with a little TLC but I'd appreciate thoughts from others here. I don't want to throw good money after bad.
The 246 camcover gasket appears to be smoking when it got warm. I suspect both sides will need doing.
I suspect plug wells are probably full of oil, but haven't checked yet, or equally with water, from being stood so long with scuttle drains blocked.
If I'm honest my biggest fear is the rear arches and the fact they are starting to go. I'd like advice on what realistic and cost effective measures could be done to, ideally restore them, but at least, stop them getting any worse.
I also noticed a slight air leak in the servo pipe, which is detectable by feel / sound, which might be making the idle a little poor.
To make the car good, it will need
Oil Cooler
Cam Cover Gaskets
Cambelt Kit
Auxiliary Belt
Brake overhaul + maybe new brakes
2 x tyres
Geometry and probably wishbones
Rear arches looking at
Cat back exhaust
Battery
3 or 4 short oil changes and filter
Spark Plugs
Maybe coil packs - or maybe the existing ones are ok, I could look to put them in the airing cupboard etc.
New MOT
What are the thoughts?
Worth fixing, being a 3.2 Elite with, (aside of the arches) excellent bodywork?
To finish on a high... I forgot how bloody good BOSE sound is :y :y
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This was the original ebay ad:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2001-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-ELITE-V6-AUTO-GREY-/231786923640?hash=item35f793c678:g:dx4AAOSwJcZWcshb
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(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsd7r25mqh.jpeg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps6rlkcn58.jpeg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsfjsjsjl1.jpeg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpstbrpwgbi.jpeg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpszhylzpyx.jpeg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsdcxraoxx.jpeg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsibhsrwrc.jpeg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zps1lf1rgoo.jpeg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsndz8c5nb.jpeg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpstfxosf8h.jpeg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjxy36osb.jpeg)
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Definitely worth saving. 3.2 elites are getting thin on the ground now, and with your know how it will all get done for the cost of the parts.
Difficult to tell from photos, but if your lucky the arches may just need some good quakity rust treatment (such as Bilthamber) and then painting.
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My arches were in a similar state 4 years ago and I ground them down to bare metal, gave them a couple of coats of rust treatment and mixed up some Hammerite 'Nearly Nocturno Blue' ;) They have lasted well :y, but I'll probably do them again in the summer as the bubbles are starting to reappear.... :(
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Save it, spend loads on getting it into A1 condition then I will buy it when you sell it. Usual price £700 delivered.
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Should make a decent car when sorted, James. :y
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Fix it of course - It's a 3.2!
Just one point, if it hasn't moved for two years, I think I'd be inclined to put new tyres on it once it's up and running personally, especially if it's sat stationary and the tyres have been flat.
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Number of years ago that would make a good project to turn around, these days project like that is only good as a keeper.
Looks solid overall, should come up well. :y
But will you keep it long enough? Don't you still have the 530d?
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All the tasks you list, with the possible exception of the rust treatment, come under "routine maintainance" for an omega owner, and you will do all of them far better than any garage, and at a much lower cost. The rust treatment is becoming more common as the cars get older, and again, is well within your capabilities.
You paid little for the car, the total cost of parts for fixing it is less than £500 at a guess... so for a total outlay of around £800 you will have a mechanically and bodily sound, and sought after, motor, which you can either sell on at a premium as it will be a "sorted" car, or keep for a fair few years as an enjoyable drive. .... or you can sort it and then let me have it cheap .... :)
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Is it me or is drivers footwell soaking wet,may just be a shadow but heater matrix change would add to an already longish list!
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Is it me or is drivers footwell soaking wet,may just be a shadow but heater matrix change would add to an already longish list!
Even if it is wet, that'll be due to the eleventy tree's stuck in the scuttle drains. :y
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Get it fixed up you big soft girl. :y
I may be biased as it seems to be the same colour as my Special...
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Number of years ago that would make a good project to turn around, these days project like that is only good as a keeper.
Looks solid overall, should come up well. :y
But will you keep it long enough? Don't you still have the 530d?
James , IMO , What Tunnie says is the important question here . Do whats needed, but only if it's going to be "your" omega to keep for a decent time .
You are in a good position , as all the mechanical work can be done by you. Just got to buy the parts & find the time . Elbow grease , spit & polish comes mostly free. Arches will I presume need specialist attention , but in your case this will be the only job you will paying somebody to do . As a "keeper" a very worthwhile project ,as you will know all the usual Omega "issues" will have been sorted . . . but as a "sell on at a profit after it has been done" forget it , you will lose money . . . & quite a bit I would say ::)
wish you well with it , if I were in your position , I would do it . . . then keep it :y
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I never bought this under the illusion I would make any money.
With all the hours I would put in TLC wise to get it right, I'd never recover anywhere near the outlay in parts and time. The intention was certainly not a money spinner....
Moreso that I seem to have this strange problem, whereby if I don't have an Omega to tinker with, I am not a happy chappy!! :y
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Been there. Tee shirt.NEVER EVER AGAIN! It'll do your head in James,cube it whilst you still have your sanity :)
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Common disease here ;D ;D ;D...Its called " Omegaitis" or in plain English "Chasing a Lost Cause", ??? but hate to say I suffer from it and its not easy to cure ;D
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Common disease here ;D ;D ;D...Its called " Omegaitis" or in plain English "Chasing a Lost Cause", ??? but hate to say I suffer from it and its not easy to cure ;D
That Scouser managed to do it - Albeit with an Astra, with a silly little engine, in a fetching shade of puke.
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Common disease here ;D ;D ;D...Its called " Omegaitis" or in plain English "Chasing a Lost Cause", ??? but hate to say I suffer from it and its not easy to cure ;D
+1 :-[
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Number of years ago that would make a good project to turn around, these days project like that is only good as a keeper.
Looks solid overall, should come up well. :y
But will you keep it long enough? Don't you still have the 530d?
James , IMO , What Tunnie says is the important question here . Do whats needed, but only if it's going to be "your" omega to keep for a decent time .
You are in a good position , as all the mechanical work can be done by you. Just got to buy the parts & find the time . Elbow grease , spit & polish comes mostly free. Arches will I presume need specialist attention , but in your case this will be the only job you will paying somebody to do . As a "keeper" a very worthwhile project ,as you will know all the usual Omega "issues" will have been sorted . . . but as a "sell on at a profit after it has been done" forget it , you will lose money . . . & quite a bit I would say ::)
wish you well with it , if I were in your position , I would do it . . . then keep it :y
James . . .Maybe that highlighted sentance in my post should have read . . .
"If I were in your position, without an omega, I would do it, then keep it ;) ;)
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Number of years ago that would make a good project to turn around, these days project like that is only good as a keeper.
Looks solid overall, should come up well. :y
But will you keep it long enough? Don't you still have the 530d?
James , IMO , What Tunnie says is the important question here . Do whats needed, but only if it's going to be "your" omega to keep for a decent time .
You are in a good position , as all the mechanical work can be done by you. Just got to buy the parts & find the time . Elbow grease , spit & polish comes mostly free. Arches will I presume need specialist attention , but in your case this will be the only job you will paying somebody to do . As a "keeper" a very worthwhile project ,as you will know all the usual Omega "issues" will have been sorted . . . but as a "sell on at a profit after it has been done" forget it , you will lose money . . . & quite a bit I would say ::)
wish you well with it , if I were in your position , I would do it . . . then keep it :y
James . . .Maybe that highlighted sentance in my post should have read . . .
"If I were in your position, without an omega, I would do it, then keep it ;) ;)
:y
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Looks like this could be a lovely project for you James. If anyone can sort out this lovely car then it's you mate :y
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I'm in the middle of the same process myself James. Bought a 3.2 elite before Xmas that had shredded the fan belt. Body is perfect and interior the same, bought for £350. For roughly the same again ill have it up and running again. Too good of a motor to not buy it!!! All the best with yours mate.
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Deffo worth doing up great colour and as others have said the 3.2 elites are becoming rare looks like the arches have been caught just in time and a good grind out and clean up spray they should be good, post the photo's when done :y
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If you really like it do it up, cheap luxury motoring & who wants a euro s**tbox anyway !! Dare to be different . 😀 😁 😂
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My only reservation is the arches... can they be reasonably restored permanently for not a fortune? :y
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My only reservation is the arches... can they be reasonably restored permanently for not a fortune? :y
Nitro is the man to ask on that one James ;)
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My only reservation is the arches... can they be reasonably restored permanently for not a fortune? :y
Nitro is the man to ask on that one James ;)
I like Nitro, very much... but I know he will just tell me to torch it.... ;D
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My only reservation is the arches... can they be reasonably restored permanently for not a fortune? :y
The problem is you will have to paint each quarter panel, after sanding each arch back to bare metal.
That's about £100 in materials if you do it yourself, plus equipment.
If you have to pay someone to do it, it will only be worth doing on a longterm keeper.
From your photos you're probably looking at a couple of years before it gets so unsightly that it will be worth touching. That's about how bad mine looked, and I've only recently dealt with one of them:
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/ili7volp8wswajt/MaskedandPrimed.jpg?dl=1)
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James......you judge me so harshly,I'm only thinking of your sanity,your relationship with your lovely lady,and above all else your bank balance :)
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James......you judge me so harshly,I'm only thinking of your sanity,your relationship with your lovely lady,and above all else your bank balance :)
And above all you're talking from experience :y
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They are not too bad James.....My blue estate is a bit further on than yours. I shall grind back, and grind out any rust and refill and shape, with isopon (P38/P40). I have a compressor and guns here, you could use when you are ready to repaint. :y
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They are not too bad James.....My blue estate is a bit further on than yours. I shall grind back, and grind out any rust and refill and shape, with isopon (P38/P40). I have a compressor and guns here, you could use when you are ready to repaint. :y
Fancy helping me with your experience and expertise when the time (and weather) comes? I'd gladly trade it for a cambelt change or two :y :y
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James......you judge me so harshly,I'm only thinking of your sanity,your relationship with your lovely lady,and above all else your bank balance :)
and dont forget the new starter for your bmw :-X
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My only reservation is the arches... can they be reasonably restored permanently for not a fortune? :y
As I said they really aren't that bad and a good grind and some filler they will look okay but can't get a good look at the actual arch underneath so if there is metal to be added and you want it to last then get some steel and weld it in then fill and make good, it don't look too bad past the edge so shouldn't need to chase it halfway up the panel.
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I'm with Nitro on on this, I call mine the £500 pound motor, although I admit to not using it a lot ;) but when time come around for whatever, it has a habit of making above figure evaporate, I suppose it's a bit of a Love,Hate relationship :y
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I never bought this under the illusion I would make any money.
With all the hours I would put in TLC wise to get it right, I'd never recover anywhere near the outlay in parts and time. The intention was certainly not a money spinner....
Moreso that I seem to have this strange problem, whereby if I don't have an Omega to tinker with, I am not a happy chappy!! :y
I read that last line to my wife, and she laughed, and said "Tell him you're just the same". I have spent the weekend happily changing door cards on an Omega.
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Just picked up a genuine new stainless oil cooler kit for £75 posted :y
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well done, that is a steal. :y
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Update
I thought I'd check some basics today.
As said, when I drove her off the truck she was misfiring like mad and emissions light flashing.
After a long charge of the battery I investigated further today. Codes were for misfire on cyl 1.
Removed 1-3-5 cool pack. Plug well 1 was full of water. All boots on the coil pack badly split.
I dried out the plug wells and checked the plugs. All black nasty and sooty but not wet. Refitted plugs and a good spare coil pack.
Now runs on all 6 with no misfire :y
I did a compression test after this to get a feel for engine health.
Pots 2-4-6 were all bang on 225psi
Pots 1-3-5 were all bang on 200psi
Although not a massive drop it set me thinking. So I checked Cambelt setup.
The 1-3-5 bank was an entire tooth too retarded.
I set up the cam timing correctly, the 1-3-5 pots are all now also 225psi :y
I have not been told the engine has cooked (due to oil and water mixing).
Based on the above I'm thinking I might leave the heads in place, just change the cooler, and do many coolant flushes to get rid of the nasty brown goo....
Thoughts?
I will do the stat and hbv whilst accessible. And the Cambelt kit. And full service etc once back together.
I also found a hole in the servo main vacuum pipe. Quite a substantial one. Could this be introducing unmetered air and account for all the plugs (incl 2-4-6) being dry and black?
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Looks like a keeper to me. :)
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Update
I thought I'd check some basics today.
As said, when I drove her off the truck she was misfiring like mad and emissions light flashing.
After a long charge of the battery I investigated further today. Codes were for misfire on cyl 1.
Removed 1-3-5 cool pack. Plug well 1 was full of water. All boots on the coil pack badly split.
I dried out the plug wells and checked the plugs. All black nasty and sooty but not wet. Refitted plugs and a good spare coil pack.
Now runs on all 6 with no misfire :y
I did a compression test after this to get a feel for engine health.
Pots 2-4-6 were all bang on 225psi
Pots 1-3-5 were all bang on 200psi
Although not a massive drop it set me thinking. So I checked Cambelt setup.
The 1-3-5 bank was an entire tooth too retarded.
I set up the cam timing correctly, the 1-3-5 pots are all now also 225psi :y
I have not been told the engine has cooked (due to oil and water mixing).
Based on the above I'm thinking I might leave the heads in place, just change the cooler, and do many coolant flushes to get rid of the nasty brown goo....
Thoughts?
I will do the stat and hbv whilst accessible. And the Cambelt kit. And full service etc once back together.
I also found a hole in the servo main vacuum pipe. Quite a substantial one. Could this be introducing unmetered air and account for all the plugs (incl 2-4-6) being dry and black?
Do you have a code reader that can show you the long term trims? I imagine one bank being one tooth out would cause a big imbalance but wouldn't like to guess how the plugs would look as a result :-\
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Crossed my mind but sadly Laptop Fubar, so only ability to read and reset until I fix that..
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Where'd you get the oil cooler from?? Do they have any more?? :o
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Where'd you get the oil cooler from?? Do they have any more?? :o
Look after your coolant, the oil cooler will not fail ;)
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So far have also ordered:
Timing belt kit
Thermostat
Aux belt
Aux idler pulley
Red coolant
New cat back exhaust and mounting kit
Unless anyone can convince me otherwise, given the good compression, I am thinking I will leave the heads in situ, especially as this car will have multi layer gaskets fitted?
I think I will also leave the water pump be. It's s gen GM item and feels absolutely fine, like new
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The new cooler has arrived. Gm branded
No cover plate or o rings though. I guess no harm in using old plate.
It does seem to have a tiny ding as per top left of this picture. I don't suppose this would cause any issue?
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbhmttfe7.jpeg)
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To clarify I'm talking about along the vertical seam on the left of the picture
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On a brighter note the mats have come up lovely in the washing machine, 3 hour 90 deg cycle, much to SWMBO's disgust
Here is one of them after a wash. It was as bad as the other
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxb1mcocy.jpeg)
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The new cooler has arrived. Gm branded
No cover plate or o rings though. I guess no harm in using old plate.
It does seem to have a tiny ding as per top left of this picture. I don't suppose this would cause any issue?
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbhmttfe7.jpeg)
I still have the oil cooler you sold me last year, still in the box :y
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Where'd you get the oil cooler from?? Do they have any more?? :o
Look after your coolant, the oil cooler will not fail ;)
Thanks :y Probably worrying about nothing, then. I'm currently on a 50-50 mix, so fingers crossed! I'm thinking of the previous years of neglect from a certain un-named male parent of mine... ;D
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The new cooler has arrived. Gm branded
No cover plate or o rings though. I guess no harm in using old plate.
It does seem to have a tiny ding as per top left of this picture. I don't suppose this would cause any issue?
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbhmttfe7.jpeg)
Any more thoughts on this before I fit it :y
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Sorry I can't speak from personal experience on this, James, but it looks fine to me. Unless they've got another they are willing to swap it for just on the offchance. It's clearly had a little 'belt' but the insides are reasonably robust, aren't they? not quite as delicate as a cat or a radiator? :-\
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If you're not sure, either pressure test it or don't use it...
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I don't have the means to pressure test it and the cost of having it done would be prohibitive
My gut feeling is that it's fine and only superficial, I was just after views of others
I guess I could cut the old one open just to see
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I reckon you could drill a hole in one of those plastic plugs, fit a schraeder valve, pressurise it and drop it in a bucket of water. Would save a lot of wasted time if it is knackered. :y
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The dent doesn't look THAT bad, but what is the discolouration - corrosion?
Could the damage have caused plating separation, allowing degradation to take place, or am I talking through my a**e?!!
Ron.
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I reckon you could drill a hole in one of those plastic plugs, fit a schraeder valve, pressurise it and drop it in a bucket of water. Would save a lot of wasted time if it is knackered. :y
What sort of pressure would you suggest?
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I don't have the means to pressure test it and the cost of having it done would be prohibitive
My gut feeling is that it's fine and only superficial, I was just after views of others
I guess I could cut the old one open just to see
You could easily make a pressure tester from a pair of the pipes that connect to the cooler.
Crimp and solder one end up, and solder a tyre valve in the other. Pressurise with a footpump. Your Haynes manual probably gives some idea of how much pressure the oil system makes.
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Yep, 2 or 3 BAR would be enough but I doubt you'd need that much to see a stream of bubbles if it's punctured.
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Well the old one had definitely failed!
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1606_zpso8cqugf3.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1608_zpskpbeaxns.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1605_zpsb6qbfpyp.jpg)
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I'm currently on a 50-50 mix, so fingers crossed!
In addition to the correct strength, its age is important. Some people think that as it says 5yrs (or 2yrs, depending on type), that it will be fine for 5/2yrs. Idiots. Half the stated life :)
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I'm currently on a 50-50 mix, so fingers crossed!
In addition to the correct strength, its age is important. Some people think that as it says 5yrs (or 2yrs, depending on type), that it will be fine for 5/2yrs. Idiots. Half the stated life :)
Check mine every service, and change when needed, always 50/50 or higher :y
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Took a trip to the VX dealer today. I came home with:
Manifold gaskets x 2
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1610_zpspcelr9ts.jpg)
Cam Cover gaskets (Genuine obviously) and O rings
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1612_zpshpligbnd.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1622_zpsm28x2jls.jpg)
Spark plugs x 6
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1619_zpsydsft2fg.jpg)
Oil Filter spin on conversion kit plus a pile of filters:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1614_zps3nnqd51r.jpg)
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1621_zpsri1qorys.jpg)
Heater bypass valve (It's not leaking, but common sense says change it while easily accessible). This item has dropped a bit in price!
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1620_zpsrq36jgff.jpg)
Coolant Bridge Doughty Washers
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1618_zpshbf2yqui.jpg)
Oil cooler pipe washers:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1617_zpsqz4akswq.jpg)
Grey goo for oil cooler
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1615_zpsrmnv6ez5.jpg)
Black goo for camcover gaskets
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1616_zpsgr89fpor.jpg)
Front coolant transfer pipe, for the new stat:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_1611_zpscuf0qkox.jpg)
I am also awaiting online delivery of other components, from other suppliers, such as cambelt kit, aux belt, thermostat, new exhaust from cats back.
I already have oil and antifreeze
Plus 5 cans of carb cleaner.
This car is getting the works :y
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The engine oil is black and thick. Before it runs again, sump is coming off for a clean out and strainer-check, just for belt and braces.
I also have a hoard of Dex3 ATF, so she will be getting new gearbox oil :y
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Christ, looking at that picture of the oil cooler I literally dread to think what mine would look like if I delved in and removed it.
Looking good James, anyway. This is going to be a cracking motor when you're finished :)
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Christ, looking at that picture of the oil cooler I literally dread to think what mine would look like if I delved in and removed it.
Looking good James, anyway. This is going to be a cracking motor when you're finished :)
Fairly clean I'd imagine, if its not failed
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Given the scenario of 'everything's going to be all right' and 'it's fail, FAIL I tells ya!' I automatically default to the latter.
Given the approx 3,000 components on an Omega, that's a lot of sleepless nights for me! :D
But thanks for the clarification. :y I think knowing she sat for 7 years unmoved, and then got driven into 5 months after getting back on the road I kind of look for problems, every rattle, squeak, or murmur gets me concerned...
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Not got very far today.
Interestingly look at the old oil cooler plate. I clearly won't be reusing this. Poor coolant mix has properly corroded it:
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsmybepcpz.jpeg)
We have seen on this forum before where cooler plates have holed. Looking at the depth of this corrosion I won't be using it, as this car is going to Spain later in the year.
As TB keeps saying. Maintain your coolant!!!
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Also uncovered a couple of other points of note
The stat looks original. Yet the b@stard bolt isn't original, it's a 13mm hex.
The stat had been sealed with black sealant. Also a non standard jubilee clip was on the stat pipe.
The rear coolant pipe has also had the clip disturbed
What I am getting at is, who has been in here, and more importantly, for what reason :-\
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In the meantime... New cat back exhaust fitted. Fitted v nicely all with new rubbers, no issues :y
Old system rotten as a peach....
(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsjgl3tfin.jpeg)
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Where's the exhaust from and how much... might need one for acquisition ;)
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Also now fitted new Cambelt kit, aux belt, and new aux tensioner.
I am spending a fortune on this thing, I'm hoping it will be a very, very decent Elite when I'm done :y
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Where's the exhaust from and how much... might need one for acquisition ;)
Looks like ETS?
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Where's the exhaust from and how much... might need one for acquisition ;)
I'd advise you wait until I've trialled it to make sure it sounds ok.... :y it does fit very well though.
£72 delivered incl new rubbers and clamps from I think Germany. eBay job, I will find the link for you if you need it.
Genuine Gm isn't cost effective now it's not double skinned, so thought I'd take a punt :y
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(http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k205/jamesv6cdx/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsbdviici9.jpeg)
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Ta :y
Car in question has sat for 11 months, so will see what MoT throws up and go from there... appeared to be water dripping from cat/centre pipe join, so not holding my breath ;D
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Dont use the rubbers supplied by ETS. They will be cracked and stretched within 12 months. Keep the genuine GM ones.
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Where's the exhaust from and how much... might need one for acquisition ;)
Got a new ETS for an estate 3.2 in the shed if needed
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Where's the exhaust from and how much... might need one for acquisition ;)
Got a new ETS for an estate 3.2 in the shed if needed
Close but no cigar... It's a Saloon lol ;)
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Must admit I was pleasantly surprised[for a change]at the price of a new HBV when I bought one last year,I had thoughts of them being much dearer and was getting prepared for a long hard breakers yard hunt for one.New part price meant car got a brand spanker fitted instead!
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Update
Genuine cam gaskets and O rings both sides
New timing belt kit, aux belt and pulley
Hbv
New Oil cooler kit
Spin on filter conversion
Cat back exhaust
Fresh oil
Spark plugs
New boots on coil packs
Breathers heavily cleaned
purrs nicely now :y
Still work to do. Brakes. Wishbones. Tyres. MOT!
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Amazingly the battery that sat dead for 2 years has taken and holds a charge!!
I will replace it once she is MOTD and on the road though :y
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Dont use the rubbers supplied by ETS. They will be cracked and stretched within 12 months. Keep the genuine GM ones.
I fitted my ETS system, using their fixing kit and rubbers, nearly 3 years ago. Last time I looked all the fixings still looked fine :-\
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Update
Genuine cam gaskets and O rings both sides
New timing belt kit, aux belt and pulley
Hbv
New Oil cooler kit
Spin on filter conversion
Cat back exhaust
Fresh oil
Spark plugs
New boots on coil packs
Breathers heavily cleaned
purrs nicely now :y
Still work to do. Brakes. Wishbones. Tyres. MOT!
One of the best mods going :y :y :y
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Back from MOT. Failed ;D
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Back from MOT. Failed ;D
Enlighten us then :-[
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1) left wiper blade perished
2) washer system doesn't supply sufficient (eg any) liquid
3) battery insecure
Advisory:
2 X front tyres near legal limit
I think that's bloody good for a 15 year old car that's been off the road nearly three years :y
Have replaced the wiper blades. The lack of fluid I thought was a failed washer pump (it was fine before the test!) but I found what appears to be the remains of a rubber glove in the bottle!! All sorted. I still had to fit the new pump, old one broke coming out.
Pattern job from ECP but seems to work well
looking at the battery tray, the bolt that secures the battery is broken off. I will drill it out tomorrow and just use a nut and bolt.
Happy days :y
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Battery on mine wasn't bolted down when I bought the car still isn't,never has been.Never once been mentioned on mot even as an advisory.
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Battery on mine wasn't bolted down when I bought the car still isn't,never has been.Never once been mentioned on mot even as an advisory.
Poor tester then, clearly not doing the checks he's supposed to...
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Always been the same on every mot since 2011 when I got it!
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Ooops no sorry make that 2012 when I got it!
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Sorry, but that's a piss poor showing for a car that has had time and effort spent on it.
No excuse for washers to not be working, likewise wiper blades and battery.
Tyres, just about acceptable as anything below 2mm should raise an eyebrow at the test... And you could present it knowing that they might only have 500 miles left.
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Sorry, but that's a piss poor showing for a car that has had time and effort spent on it.
No excuse for washers to not be working, likewise wiper blades and battery.
Tyres, just about acceptable as anything below 2mm should raise an eyebrow at the test... And you could present it knowing that they might only have 500 miles left.
Aggree with the fudd owner, you've spent all that time and effort, and it fails on washer n wipers, and advisories on tyres( which I assume you looked at when you did the brakes. :-\
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.
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Sorry, but that's a piss poor showing for a car that has had time and effort spent on it.
No excuse for washers to not be working, likewise wiper blades and battery.
The "time and effort" is far, far from finished. I have only just completed the main repairs. I chose to MOT her at this time because I am starting a spell of holiday, and it's a good time for me to find out any failures now, and address anything that might come up on the test.
This may seem odd but I just wanted to know from an MOT perspective where she stood, to know where to concentrate my next efforts, and find out if I'd missed anything she needs.
Just because the MOT is done doesn't mean I consider her at all ready for the road. It will have all new tyres and brakes for example. Despite the current ones being MOT worthy, I wouldn't trust them as far as I could throw them...
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Sorry, but that's a piss poor showing for a car that has had time and effort spent on it.
No excuse for washers to not be working, likewise wiper blades and battery.
Tyres, just about acceptable as anything below 2mm should raise an eyebrow at the test... And you could present it knowing that they might only have 500 miles left.
Aggree with the fudd owner, you've spent all that time and effort, and it fails on washer n wipers, and advisories on tyres( which I assume you looked at when you did the brakes. :-\
I haven't touched the brakes, yet.
I won't use it on the road until they are done, though!