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[erubus]

hi there guys, I'm new on here and new to omegas.  I've always owned vauxhalls, I have had 4 cavaliers now and a carlton/senator hybrid and have just bought an omega 2.5td elite.  It is a great car, excellent to drive and reasonably powerful the only thing is that it stalls whenever there is a load put on the engine, either ny changing into D or R or by using something electrical.  This is annoying, but it also cuts out when going round corners, as the steering is enough to kill it and i think this is a little dangerous!

From the digging that I have done so far, I think it is fairly common and also I fear, damned expensive to sort. 

I'm hoping that you guys might be able to tell me what the problem is and how to sort it.  I'm a very competent mechanic so i'm hoping that it can be sorted.
cheers in advance, Gill

[erubus]

bugger.  Been reading all the threads to find some reference to the stalling problem.  The member spikerz has been having the exact same problems.....it's the same car, I just bought it off spikerz, hope that means no-one has the answer!

[mathewst]

First get your codes read with a paperclip test

[erubus]

i tried to get codes out but the diagnostic plug is different ot the diagram i have, i'll do a search on here for another diagram.  I've managed to get the car driveable now by tying up the throttle pedal to raise the idle speed.  it's by no means a fix but at least it doesnt cut out every time i go round a corner!  I saw spikerz solution to his stalling problem with some amusement. 

I read on a bmw forum about a potentiometer wearing inside the pump causing the problem.  does anyone know if this is the case and whether the parts are available to buy without needing to buy a whole pump?  would anyone have a pump they could sell perhaps?  i don't have enough posts to put a wanted ad up. 

cheers again, gill

[mathewst]

Check the parts section, there are always a few good finds there. Also you could check the ebay.
I guess the car is too old and has that old jack (not the Tech2 compatible) I think Tech1 will be able to read the codes on you car (well at least I read something like this on the forum). Hope someone will be able to help you.

[TheBoy]

Ah, if its that car, its had the diesel magic trick tried.

Fuel pump is the problem, specialist job to refurb.

Be aware not all pumps are compaitble with all ECUs. From memory, newer ecus are ok with older pumps, but not other way round.

Beemer forums (M51TDS engine) and Range Rover forums (2.5D/2.5DSE) may offer additional advice

[erubus]

bugger.  that's kinda what i was worrying about. feal kinda cheated if that had already been established.  i knew about the stalling when i bought it, but nothing was said about it being a pump costing £2000

[TheBoy]

bugger.  that's kinda what i was worrying about. feal kinda cheated if that had already been established.  i knew about the stalling when i bought it, but nothing was said about it being a pump costing £2000

refurb is probably better option

[raywilb]

where are you . near york i knew of a scrapper that was driven in. same age as yours. i could check it out for you. 

[Seth]

bugger.  that's kinda what i was worrying about. feal kinda cheated if that had already been established.  i knew about the stalling when i bought it, but nothing was said about it being a pump costing £2000

I had to get the injection pump changed a year ago on mine at a cost of just over 1200 quid.
I had a similar problem to yours, and in the end, there was no other solution.
TheBoy and Marks DTM have since chipped it for me, and it's a totally transformed car now.
Ask Mrs Sethsmate!

[sassanach]

chap here had a similar problem,cure was easy(for him anyway),on the top of the injector pump is a casing secured with 4 screws , if you loosen and shift the housing fore or aft(whichever works)by a smidgeon the problem will go away.smidgeon=.25mm,0.010 etc

[erubus]

now that sounds like a better idea, a bit like the adjustment procedure on my series three landy!  only problem is, i have had to abandon the car 40 miles from home.  Was driving home form work when i noticed the temp guage was off the scale, I stopped and checked teh engine, the expansion tank was cold, as was the radiator, so i thought perhaps the guage has just gone to buggery and continued driving, i got another half mile or so and lost all power so i pulled over again. 

To cut a long story short, i suspected the thermostat had stuck, so i took the housing off and cut the centre section of the thermostat out and put it all back together, walked a mile and a half to a farm to get water, filled it all back up and ran the engine for a short time to see if it boiled up again...it did.

Being about 40 miles from home i tried to drive until the temp got too high, stop cool down and start off again, but it got to the stage where it was boiling up every 500 yards or so, so I ended up taking it back to my work and abandoning it.

The top of the radiator was very hot, but the bottom cold, and the return hose was warm but not hot, and the heater was not blowing hot.  Is there a method of bleeding the system?  My thoughts are that i either have an airlock, the head gasket has gone or the water pump has gone or the radiator has silted up.

anyone got any ideas?  I need the car for work and can only borrow the other half's car for a day or two!

cheers gill

[Entwood]

I'm not a TD man at all .. but I seem to remember reading that the water pump impellers on those lumps have a tendency to disintegrate and shred bits of plasticthroughout the system .. I'm wondering if that is your overheating problem .. a simple water pump failure ??

I could well be wrong mind ....

[erubus]

I was worrying that might be the case.  I can't work on it where it is and have no way of getting it home.  rock and a hard place.  the way i'm feeling right now i might just get the scrappy to lift it!

[sassanach]

cracked cylinder heads is also a major problem with these engines