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[Jukeboxnut]

My off side (driver) door lock recently stopped working so I replaced it with a reconditioned spare that had new micro switches fitted but still it is not working.  All the other locks work perfectly and this is the second time I have replaced the lock in the nine years I have owned the car.  I can still lock/unlock the car with the key.

Is it possible that the central locking control unit in the footwell is not working properly?  I suspect this as all the micro switches do is stop and start the motor but the actual control unit reverses the motors etc.  Does anyone know the correct part number for the control unit?  I have seen one available part number 90512786 (GM 90 464 713) but am not sure if this is right for my car which is a 2004 2.2 CDX petrol estate.  Also would a replacement unit need re coding?

Any help would be much appreciated as the car is still mint apart from this small but annoying problem.

[Steve B]

My off side (driver) door lock recently stopped working so I replaced it with a reconditioned spare that had new micro switches fitted but still it is not working.  All the other locks work perfectly and this is the second time I have replaced the lock in the nine years I have owned the car.  I can still lock/unlock the car with the key.

Is it possible that the central locking control unit in the footwell is not working properly?  I suspect this as all the micro switches do is stop and start the motor but the actual control unit reverses the motors etc.  Does anyone know the correct part number for the control unit?  I have seen one available part number 90512786 (GM 90 464 713) but am not sure if this is right for my car which is a 2004 2.2 CDX petrol estate.  Also would a replacement unit need re coding?

Any help would be much appreciated as the car is still mint apart from this small but annoying problem.

Where was that from   

[Jukeboxnut]

It is one that I bought second hand on ebay and repaired with new micro switches following the excellent repair guide on this forum.
I tested it at work using a 12v dc supply and it was functioning perfectly (as was the one I removed) which makes me suspect the control unit.

[Kevin Wood]

The control unit (alarm / central locking ECU) operates all 4 motors in parallel, I believe, so, if it's just the driver's door that's problematic, I think it has to be the motor again.

If the other doors are also refusing to operate with the remote, then it's a possibility.

[Andy B]

You sure it's not a sticky/siezed linkage somewhere in the driver's door. My Senator used to be like that, locked fine by the key in that door, but would immediately open again if locked via the boot ...... pre remote locking ..... lub'd all linkages & it was sorted.

[Jukeboxnut]

I cleaned and lubricated all the linkages before refitting the lock Andy.

 If you sit in the car and use the remote to open and shut the door locks the driver's one occasionally gives a slight kick as if it is trying to operate but that is all.

[johnnydog]

This has happened to me on several occasions over the years with different cars - generally the drivers door, but once the front passenger. Each time I replaced the solenoid / motor in the affected door with one from a local scrap yard, and it cured the problem on every occasion. I personally would try a different solenoid / motor from a scrapper. I paid a fiver for the last one I got.

[Jukeboxnut]

Might try my other spare when I feel in the mood and have replaced the switches on that one.  Will report back if successful.

[johnnydog]

Is it worth messing about replacing the microswitches when they can still be had in breakers for little money? At the cost of them, it's worth getting a couple!

[Shackeng]

It is one that I bought second hand on ebay and repaired with new micro switches following the excellent repair guide on this forum.
I tested it at work using a 12v dc supply and it was functioning perfectly (as was the one I removed) which makes me suspect the control unit.

 I have done several in the past, and I recently refurbished a lazy one. In situ it was intermittent, and for interest when removed, I plugged it back into the loom and tested it and it appeared perfectly normal, although not working properly in situ. I then replaced the m/s, and refitted it, now perfect.

[TheBoy]

Is it worth messing about replacing the microswitches when they can still be had in breakers for little money? At the cost of them, it's worth getting a couple!

Yes, as the 12-21yr old ones from breakers will have shagged switches as well.

[johnnydog]

All the three cars that I have had one door not locking / unlocking have all been repaired with motors /solenoids from scrap cars. Maybe I have been exceptionally lucky then, but initially I would at least try another unit (that is assuming there are Omegas in your local breakers....). You could even try it on the car outside the yard as its not a difficult job to do, especially if the door card is already off, and if it's no good take it straight back! That's my opinion obviously, others have different views, so it's entirely your choice!