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[Marks DTM Calib]

Smoke on initial start up is to be expected....I have managed to almost smog he road out before!

Looks like quite a bit of condensation but, its not been run for ages so there will be lots of damp in the exhaust

[ScottieMV6]

So let it run until up to temp and then see whats what?

[Marks DTM Calib]

So let it run until up to temp and then see whats what?

Does it sound ok?

[ScottieMV6]

Seems to sound ok. Lifters were a bit noisy but they seem to have settled down a bit.

About 2 minutes after starting up the idle seems to increase to about 1500 rpm from 1000 rpm and if you "blip" the throttle it wants to cut out.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Seems to sound ok. Lifters were a bit noisy but they seem to have settled down a bit.

About 2 minutes after starting up the idle seems to increase to about 1500 rpm from 1000 rpm and if you "blip" the throttle it wants to cut out.

Sounds like you have an air leak...but let it get hot.

[ScottieMV6]

Ok have just run it for 10 minutes or so. Gets to temp fairly quickly (quicker than it used to but I always thought it took a long time anyway). Sits happily at an indicated 95 degrees but still billowing smoke out of the exhaust.

Guess the next step is to remove the servo hose and find something suitable to block up the hole and run it again (to eliminate brake fluid). Also I need to find the source of the air leak too (this has annoyed me slightly as I have used all new genuine seals in the inlet).

Just has me worried that it smoked like this before the work and is now doing it again

[Andy H]

Is that the side that had the failed head gasket?

The vacuum hose connects to that side of the inlet plenum so brake fluid is still a possibility.

[ScottieMV6]

Is that the side that had the failed head gasket?

The vacuum hose connects to that side of the inlet plenum so brake fluid is still a possibility.

Yes it is Andy.

I am going to pull the vacuum hose tomorrow and see what happens.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Take it off and cover the hole with insultaing tape.....

I dont buy the brake fluid theory (sorry andy)as this would require both a master cylinder seal to fail (you would notice on the brakes plus fluid loss) and the vac seal on the servo to fail...hence double failure required.

[Welung666]

The air leak is easy to find... Grab a can of carb cleaner and do lots of little squirts all over the seals/gaskets on the top end. A sudden brief increase in engine revs will tell you where the leak is

[Andy H]

Take it off and cover the hole with insultaing tape.....

I dont buy the brake fluid theory (sorry andy)as this would require both a master cylinder seal to fail (you would notice on the brakes plus fluid loss) and the vac seal on the servo to fail...hence double failure required.

I agree: BUT it is to an easy check to eliminate that as a cause.

Assuming that the brakes are OK (and the header tank isn't pressurising) the advice has to be to take it for a drive to get everything properly hot and dry the exhaust out.

[ScottieMV6]

Right today I have removed the servo pipe from the plenum - no difference, so that eliminates brake fluid.

Did a compression test with the following results

1 - 13 Bar
2 - 13.5 Bar
3,4,5 & 6 - 14 bar

Not sure if that is significant or not. When putting it all back together I realised that I had not connected the knock sensor (I think thats right - its the one that sits on top of the front cable tray) so connected that back up. Took it for a drive round the block and noticed what looks like blue smoke when under load?

Other than that it is still exactly the same. No wet spark plugs or anything else untoward except that the header tank seems to be pressurising.

Please someone help as I am way past my level of knowledge here now!! :-/ :-/

[Marks DTM Calib]

Compressions look fine....knock sensor off is not good.....

Header tank should pressurise as its a pressurised system

[Tim7]

Dont know if this will be of any help to you, but my brother-in-law had a the same problem with his Landrover Freelander, massivly over fuleing, did similar tests to what you have done- pressure test, block test, all good. After a lot of head scratching and thinking about getting rid of it he got some one to run live data from the ecu which flaged up the cam sensor(no EML was on) replaced it and it is now running like new. HTH.

[ScottieMV6]

Compressions look fine....knock sensor off is not good.....

Header tank should pressurise as its a pressurised system

I meant rather quickly like it did before the work was done (thought this was a symptom)?

So what to do next? Do I assume its the heads or would the compression test point to something other than that? If so what?

What will be the consequences of the knock sensor being left off?